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Would you buy a 1922 NO D cent that wasn't slabbed?
eddiego
Posts: 101 ✭
Would you buy a 1922 no D that wasn't slabbed ?
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If I knew the series well enough, sure.
Yes, and I have previously.
But be aware and do your homework before pulling the plug.
Yes, I bought 2 from my grandpa's collection about 20 years ago.
I did the authentication myself; it's not that hard to figure it out.
Of course my grandpa formed his collection before the days of Chinese counterfeits.
Depends on the price. The higher the price, the more likely i would need it slabbed
Yes. However, if it is BU Red, you better get it authenticated as there is a Chinese fake of this date. Soon the geniuses will be wearing them down to VF brown.
No.
Bought many in the past.
Might not buy it on the internet though.
I'd be very careful; I spoke with a dealer earlier who had a customer who insisted in having an 09s vdb, 22 plain and another "rarity" sent in against better judgment and they all came back as fakes.
If the price and story is right, why not? The risk/reward has to be in your favor though.
No.
1922 Plain (strong reverse) sure, 1922 No D (weak reverse) probably but I'd make sure it met all the diagnostic criteria before doing so.
it's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide
Lots of diagnostics to prove what it is and isn't. No problem.
sure
I did. I did my homework (studying up on the 22 No-D for 6 straight hours), before placing my bid. Submitted it, and came back exactly as I thought it would; No-D Strong Reverse FS-401 Die Set 2
I'd do it again.
Yeppers.
Pete
Yup same here.
Hoard the keys.
No. Why would you not want it authenticated and graded?
"A dog breaks your heart only one time and that is when they pass on". Unknown
slab it unless you are an 'expert' on the series
BHNC #203
I have purchased 1909-S-VDB and 1877 cents raw and had them certified, so yes, I would buy a 1922 Plain raw but only the strong reverse variety. The other two are not recognized by the leading grading services. If I had been a Lincoln Cent specialist as a dealer, it would have been different, but I wasn't.
In general no, however, under certain circumstances - i.e. a known and trusted collector who has had the coin for years, and after I authenticated it, I would buy it. Otherwise, I would not. Cheers, RickO
What do you mean by other 2? If you mean the weak reverse variety, PCGS does recognize this as I have an example.
https://pcgs.com/setregistry/showcase/2819
If you want the 1922 NO D Strong Reverse in your coin album, you are going to have to buy it raw, or crack it (which I would hesitate to do).
The hole in that spot tends to drive me crazy!.
Pete
Yes..one of the easier varieties to authenticate. And while the weak reverses are collectible, they are much less valuable, and I have seen some dealers who will not pay a premium for one (though they will charge a premium!)
Tom
if i knew more about the lincoln grading wise, then yes.
No
No Way.
Been there, done that. VG with a light cleaning. Nice looking coin that cost me all of $40, and it's the right die pair.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
I like to post this picture on occasion when the subject comes up. Not my coin, though.
It's a cool coin.....always was to me.
Pete
When I was a dealer, up until 2010 or so, they didn't recognize it, and I have not been in the market since then.
Yes,
very easy to determine the correct type. In fact, folks have a tendency to undergrade these coins , so I have actually done better over the years buying them raw at shows, etc, and submitted them
At one time there was no distinction between:
"no D"
"very weak D"
"weak D"
coins; While at ANACS in DC we got tired of playing "God" as the mintmark disappeared completely on some of the coins that have now fallen out of favor. Anything without a "D" was bought, sold, and even certified as a '22 Plain with out regard to the die #'s that were assigned later. Thankfully, a research project was undertaken at ANACS in CO and results were published in the Numismatist and then revised again slightly. Today, AFAIK, the die 2 coins are the only ones that bring a premium. I have seen dealers trying to sell coins from the other dies at a premium over a normal 1922-D.
At a show this past week an old time collector came to the table with seven 1922 Plain coins. Unfortunately, none were die #2 yet they were all purchased decades ago (2 from major dealers) when the standard for the "Plain" was more relaxed.
Do you have a picture?
yes...just bought a VG/F today raw in a deal.
I don't really think I would without posting it here or ats. There are just too many slick people out there trying to rip someone off and I don't know enough of what to look for on my own.
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You better understand the different cents and especially the grading of said cents if your going to buy them raw. I have bought few myself with the above understanding as to what exactly I was buying.
WS
As previously said, it's all about knowledge. Knowing about both what's right about the coin and what's wrong about the coin. Books have always been my weakness(or strength) as I collect them and read them about any coin series I am interested in. I can't say I never bought a coin without reading first, but I should have.
So yes under certain circumstances I would buy the coin raw.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
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