The 1943 cents are steel which can be hardened and used as hubs to create dies. Using an unstruck type 2 copper cent planchet (been through the upsetting machine to raise the rims) and it wouldn't be too difficult to strike a counterfeit 1943 copper cent.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
I have flagged a post of @Gotgoodsman in this thread to alert the Mod to the abuse he is receiving from another member. Hopefully, the mod's will issue a warning and remove the "1" abuse I registered for our new member with the counterfeit cent.
@Gotgoodsman said:
I guess people are upset that I came to find info. Don't worry about it insider I'll be ok but thanks for the lookout
That's not the way this place is suppose to operate. IMHO, this is the premier Internet Forum with some of the most knowledgeable folks in the industry. The member disagreeing with you is one of the knowledgeable members in spite of what he is doing. The folks here for several years have heard, read, and answered most 'New Questions" dozens of times over and over. BTW. one of them commented on your coin. By questioning his opinion you will learn something. Questioning folks until you are satisfied is a good trait to have but there is a good and bad way to ask/answer. I'm still learning not to be abrasive so I cannot help you with that.
@Gotgoodsman said:
I hear you. Next time I will just say thanks. Guess I didn't want to give up hope on it being real and wondered how he could tell
NOOOOOOOOOO! Ask more questions than try to confirm what you are told.
Your comment about the rims was interesting. I'm going to start looking for it on any 1943 copper coins I see (so far all but three have been counterfeits of different quality) to confirm what you and Fred wrote. One thing I look for is the furrow next to the relief of Lincoln's face (common on steel cents) but I don't think that is on all the genuine specimens struck in copper.
Keep searching and good luck! Be sure to let us know the PCGS findings.
@Gotgoodsman said:
I hear you. Next time I will just say thanks. Guess I didn't want to give up hope on it being real and wondered how he could tell
NOOOOOOOOOO! Ask more questions than try to confirm what you are told.
Your comment about the rims was interesting. I'm going to start looking for it on any 1943 copper coins I see (so far all but three have been counterfeits of different quality) to confirm what you and Fred wrote. One thing I look for is the furrow next to the relief of Lincoln's face (common on steel cents) but I don't think that is on all the genuine specimens struck in copper.
Keep searching and good luck! Be sure to let us know the PCGS findings.
Yeah I was just looking for reasons why it would be fake and the rim was something that worried me and I read something saying it was because they were copper but I guess that was wronf. I'll post pcgs results I'm not holding my breath
@Gotgoodsman said:
Just wondering how long it takes them to let you know if a coin turns out to be fake. I sent a valuable coin and today is 19 business days. It seems real but I'm wondering if it isn't real would they know right away? I sent on economy grading service
If it is a valuable coin why did you send it in under economy?
Pat Vetter,Mercury Dime registry set,1938 Proof set registry,Pat & BJ Coins:724-325-7211
@Gotgoodsman said:
Just wondering how long it takes them to let you know if a coin turns out to be fake. I sent a valuable coin and today is 19 business days. It seems real but I'm wondering if it isn't real would they know right away? I sent on economy grading service
If it is a valuable coin why did you send it in under economy?
Because I doubted it was real because it's rare and didn't want to spend extra for them to just say it's fake
@Gotgoodsman said:
Just wondering how long it takes them to let you know if a coin turns out to be fake. I sent a valuable coin and today is 19 business days. It seems real but I'm wondering if it isn't real would they know right away? I sent on economy grading service
If it is a valuable coin why did you send it in under economy?
Because I doubted it was real because it's rare and didn't want to spend extra for them to just say it's fake
I suspect PCGS would be happy to charge the full freight if its real, and Gotgoodsman would be happy to oblige in that case.
I agree with @insider2, it would be interesting to learn more about the rims in these, both real and fake.
.
just caught up with this thread again. thanks for the photos.
the color is off for sure, not in a good way.
it doesn't have the look of an authentic off-metal that has been dipped or cleaned. it doesn't help that 99.999%+ of the time or more, these turn out to be not authentic/altered etc. the weight test for these weeds out the majority of fakes.
is it possible to be some unique off-metal/foreign planchet, sure, would be tough to slip past this crowd, possible but very difficult. like others have stated, pcgs will give their expert opinion soon enough.
one of the ways some of us can tell to a high degree of accuracy (even from images) most of time is having studied and looked at HUGE amounts of coins/images (hundreds of thousands and sometimes millions of coins) and there is a lot of talent around here and literally millions of discussions on hundreds of topics. stay around long enough, consistently enough and one cannot help but start to learn, A LOT.
To answer the original question: Yes, in many cases PCGS does know immediately. The turnaround time isn't for them to think about it. It's for them to look at it in the first place. There are LOTS of people in line ahead of you!
There is often someone who knows real coins from fakes who logs in the raw coins initially. I have heard word on super rare coins spreading like wildfire at NGC upon their arrival.
@LanceNewmanOCC said:
.
just caught up with this thread again. thanks for the photos.
the color is off for sure, not in a good way.
it doesn't have the look of an authentic off-metal that has been dipped or cleaned. it doesn't help that 99.999%+ of the time or more, these turn out to be not authentic/altered etc. the weight test for these weeds out the majority of fakes.
is it possible to be some unique off-metal/foreign planchet, sure, would be tough to slip past this crowd, possible but very difficult. like others have stated, pcgs will give their expert opinion soon enough.
one of the ways some of us can tell to a high degree of accuracy (even from images) most of time is having studied and looked at HUGE amounts of coins/images (hundreds of thousands and sometimes millions of coins) and there is a lot of talent around here and literally millions of discussions on hundreds of topics. stay around long enough, consistently enough and one cannot help but start to learn, A LOT.
thanks PCGS forum!
.
I thought the color was off too which is why I thought the coin dealer would immediately say it was fake but then he weighed it and looked under a microscope and compared to a steel and told me he couldn't tell me for sure but the question was how did they do it. I said what about the color? He said it was cleaned that's all. I don't know maybe he was wrong but he is a pretty knowledgeable guy in this area
@Gotgoodsman said:
but the question was how did they do it. I said what about the color? He said it was cleaned that's all. I don't know maybe he was wrong but he is a pretty knowledgeable guy in this area
there are i'm sure several methods. outright dip plating would be one, probably with some planchet preparation or possibly some form of electrolysis. there are a lot of threads in the archives here on the subject.
it doesn't look like an altered date "from the pics", so probably an outright counterfeit.
there are a lot of methods of counterfeiting/altering so tough to say precisely what it is or how they did it. the authentication process is much easier of the 2 to figure out.
.
@Gotgoodsman said:
but the question was how did they do it. I said what about the color? He said it was cleaned that's all. I don't know maybe he was wrong but he is a pretty knowledgeable guy in this area
there are i'm sure several methods. outright dip plating would be one, probably with some planchet preparation or possibly some form of electrolysis. there are a lot of threads in the archives here on the subject.
it doesn't look like an altered date "from the pics", so probably an outright counterfeit.
there are a lot of methods of counterfeiting/altering so tough to say precisely what it is or how they did it. the authentication process is much easier of the 2 to figure out.
.
Yeah not sure that's why I did just send it in so I can know for certain from pcgs. Just found it interesting that it's been so long but I guess they had many ahead of me.
I should add to OP: I think you just got really lucky with that first 3 day turnaround. Well, I guess not lucky since it was a fake but you know what I mean, it was really fast.
What was that other coin?
@jwitten said:
So, one guy seems to give disagrees to every statement, even if a disagree makes no sense. Can nothing be done about that?
Only thing we can do is report those folks. It got my three trolls banned. Fortunately, those folks added little to nothing to our discussions. Perhaps other members who add a lot to the form should get a longer leash.
We can learn a lot when members disagree in an agreeable way. That's why IMO, any "Disagree" should not even "post" unless the member replies with the reason for the disagreement. It would probably cost a fortune to change the software so that can be done. Personal feuds don't belong here.
Yeah That seems to be the consensus. Good thing i brought it here so he could tell me and disagree with every post I make
That’s Bill disagreeing with you by checking the disagree box not Fred. Fred is the expert who wrote out his disagreements and Fred was very polite imho.
Use the ABUSE flag. Some very knowledgeable assets to the forum may get a little slack but after enough flags for abuse, they may get a warning to stop the nonsense.
Comments
Thanks
I
Looks in @FredWeinberg's sig
"Authenticator for Major Mint Errors for PCGS"
Collector, occasional seller
I saw his sig
The 1943 cents are steel which can be hardened and used as hubs to create dies. Using an unstruck type 2 copper cent planchet (been through the upsetting machine to raise the rims) and it wouldn't be too difficult to strike a counterfeit 1943 copper cent.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
I have flagged a post of @Gotgoodsman in this thread to alert the Mod to the abuse he is receiving from another member. Hopefully, the mod's will issue a warning and remove the "1" abuse I registered for our new member with the counterfeit cent.
I guess people are upset that I came to find info. Don't worry about it insider I'll be ok but thanks for the lookout
Don't get me wrong, I do hope it is real.
Collector, occasional seller
That's not the way this place is suppose to operate. IMHO, this is the premier Internet Forum with some of the most knowledgeable folks in the industry. The member disagreeing with you is one of the knowledgeable members in spite of what he is doing. The folks here for several years have heard, read, and answered most 'New Questions" dozens of times over and over. BTW. one of them commented on your coin. By questioning his opinion you will learn something. Questioning folks until you are satisfied is a good trait to have but there is a good and bad way to ask/answer. I'm still learning not to be abrasive
so I cannot help you with that. 
@Insider2 My "agree" on your post pertains only to your last sentence.
Mark
PS: Nah, not really. I agree with your entire post.
I hear you. Next time I will just say thanks. Guess I didn't want to give up hope on it being real and wondered how he could tell
NOOOOOOOOOO! Ask more questions than try to confirm what you are told.
Your comment about the rims was interesting. I'm going to start looking for it on any 1943 copper coins I see (so far all but three have been counterfeits of different quality) to confirm what you and Fred wrote. One thing I look for is the furrow next to the relief of Lincoln's face (common on steel cents) but I don't think that is on all the genuine specimens struck in copper.
Keep searching and good luck! Be sure to let us know the PCGS findings.
Yeah I was just looking for reasons why it would be fake and the rim was something that worried me and I read something saying it was because they were copper but I guess that was wronf. I'll post pcgs results I'm not holding my breath
If it is a valuable coin why did you send it in under economy?
Because I doubted it was real because it's rare and didn't want to spend extra for them to just say it's fake
I suspect PCGS would be happy to charge the full freight if its real, and Gotgoodsman would be happy to oblige in that case.
I agree with @insider2, it would be interesting to learn more about the rims in these, both real and fake.
.
just caught up with this thread again. thanks for the photos.
the color is off for sure, not in a good way.
it doesn't have the look of an authentic off-metal that has been dipped or cleaned. it doesn't help that 99.999%+ of the time or more, these turn out to be not authentic/altered etc. the weight test for these weeds out the majority of fakes.
is it possible to be some unique off-metal/foreign planchet, sure, would be tough to slip past this crowd, possible but very difficult. like others have stated, pcgs will give their expert opinion soon enough.
one of the ways some of us can tell to a high degree of accuracy (even from images) most of time is having studied and looked at HUGE amounts of coins/images (hundreds of thousands and sometimes millions of coins) and there is a lot of talent around here and literally millions of discussions on hundreds of topics. stay around long enough, consistently enough and one cannot help but start to learn, A LOT.
thanks PCGS forum!
.
I don't claim to have the knowledge of others in this thread, but the shape of the 4 looks off to me. Did anyone else notice that, or am I wrong?
To answer the original question: Yes, in many cases PCGS does know immediately. The turnaround time isn't for them to think about it. It's for them to look at it in the first place. There are LOTS of people in line ahead of you!
There is often someone who knows real coins from fakes who logs in the raw coins initially. I have heard word on super rare coins spreading like wildfire at NGC upon their arrival.
I thought the color was off too which is why I thought the coin dealer would immediately say it was fake but then he weighed it and looked under a microscope and compared to a steel and told me he couldn't tell me for sure but the question was how did they do it. I said what about the color? He said it was cleaned that's all. I don't know maybe he was wrong but he is a pretty knowledgeable guy in this area
Fred W. is THE expert in this area... and if there is any question at PCGS, they will consult Fred for the final determination. Cheers, RickO
Double post... weird. Cheers, RickO
Yeah That seems to be the consensus. Good thing i brought it here so he could tell me and disagree with every post I make
there are i'm sure several methods. outright dip plating would be one, probably with some planchet preparation or possibly some form of electrolysis. there are a lot of threads in the archives here on the subject.
it doesn't look like an altered date "from the pics", so probably an outright counterfeit.
there are a lot of methods of counterfeiting/altering so tough to say precisely what it is or how they did it. the authentication process is much easier of the 2 to figure out.
.
Yeah not sure that's why I did just send it in so I can know for certain from pcgs. Just found it interesting that it's been so long but I guess they had many ahead of me.
Id rather hear from a current pcgs professional not a former guy who keeps disagreeing like a child on all my posts
It looks fake from the pictures.
My YouTube Channel
Why are so many people trolling the OP with disagrees here? Well, I guess it is mainly just a couple, but jeez, really?
Collector, occasional seller
@ChrisH821 asks: "Why are so many people trolling the OP with disagrees here? Well, I guess it is mainly just a couple, but jeez, really?"
Because, it is easier than having a discussion?
I should add to OP: I think you just got really lucky with that first 3 day turnaround. Well, I guess not lucky since it was a fake but you know what I mean, it was really fast.
What was that other coin?
Collector, occasional seller
So, one guy seems to give disagrees to every statement, even if a disagree makes no sense. Can nothing be done about that?
Only thing we can do is report those folks. It got my three trolls banned. Fortunately, those folks added little to nothing to our discussions. Perhaps other members who add a lot to the form should get a longer leash.
We can learn a lot when members disagree in an agreeable way. That's why IMO, any "Disagree" should not even "post" unless the member replies with the reason for the disagreement. It would probably cost a fortune to change the software so that can be done. Personal feuds don't belong here.
Well, at the risk of receiving a "Disagree".....
It seems it may have started with the OP who disagreed with this:
"You will find out after they get to yours and when the grade is posted".
Punishment for asking for help, then being "disagreeable" about the help received?
So far @BillDugan1959 and I agree with your post.
@TommyType Perhaps you know why that member received all the others. Does anyone else
posting in the thread have an answer? 
So... uh, any update here? @Gotgoodsman
Collector, occasional seller
Use the ABUSE flag. Some very knowledgeable assets to the forum may get a little slack but after enough flags for abuse, they may get a warning to stop the nonsense.