CAM vs DCAM Distinction for Cl*****ic Proofs (Grade In)

Update: the coin just graded PCGS 62CAM for reference.
I'm not a proof guy, so I was hoping that some forumites could fill me in on the differences in characteristics between CAM and DCAM cl*****ic proofs.


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is the program still censoring the word?
BHNC #203
seriously?
is the program still censoring the word?
Yeah. Goofy robocensor. Go figure.
Amazing how many otherwise innocuous words have A-S-S in them, ain't it?
the easiest way to get around that so you can use classic is to type in the bracketed letters and backslash for "bold" or "italics" in the middle of the banned word like I did in this post.
is the program still censoring the word?
the easiest way to get around that so you can use cl*****ic is to type in the bracketed letters and backslash for "bold" or "italics" in the middle of the banned word like I did in this post.
Yeah, that's the typical workaround, but it didn't work for me a couple of times yesterday.
I'm gonna try it with your quote. We'll see if it works or if the robocensor throws out a bunch of asterisks...
Edit- OK, it seems to be working now. Twice yesterday it didn't. Go figure.
I posted images of a coin that I am trying to get a gauge on as to whether it is CAM or DCAM to help us get back on track.
If you get a definitive answer to this, I'll add it to my library. The standards from what I have seen are applied very inconsistently. I have a Proof Morgan Dollar that should be a "Cam," and Proof Seated Dollar that is labeled "Cam" that leaves me scratching my head.
To me, it looks like there are breaks in the frost on the obverse, but I don't know what designation PCGS would give?
It's 61 because there are many hairlines in the fields, almost to the point of wear. I suppose the really tough graders would call it PR-58 DCAM.
If you get a definitive answer to this, I'll add it to my library. The standards from what I have seen are applied very inconsistently. I have a Proof Morgan Dollar that should be a "Cam," and Proof Seated Dollar that is labeled "Cam" that leaves me scratching my head.
Well, I asked a grader and his response was "It depends on the look of the coin."
Fully frosted on all devices and lettering is a DCAM. Anything less than that can drop into CAM. A CAM can seemingly have anything from 65-95% of contrast. Most coins seem to fall down on the peripheral details.
I'd call the OP's coin a PF 61/62 DCAM. Proofs that low are heavily hairlined. It doesn't look AU58 to me with all that frost on the rims, high points, etc.
I would grade the coin at the top of this page PR-61, DCAM. There might be a rub on the knee, but the coin is a stunner, at least from the level of contrast.
It's 61 because there are many hairlines in the fields, almost to the point of wear. I suppose the really tough graders would call it PR-58 DCAM.
Would they DCAM or CAM a PR58? Just curious as they would not DMPL a 58 Morgan.
I would grade the coin at the top of this page PR-61, DCAM. There might be a rub on the knee, but the coin is a stunner, at least from the level of contrast.
It's 61 because there are many hairlines in the fields, almost to the point of wear. I suppose the really tough graders would call it PR-58 DCAM.
Would they DCAM or CAM a PR58? Just curious as they would not DMPL a 58 Morgan.
If I were grading the coin, and it had wear, I'd use the PR-58 DCAM description. To it is akin to giving the Full Head designation to a Standing Liberty quarter, which the grading companies now do.
I have only one DCAM graded Seated quarter, an 1865 PR64 DCAM, and it's nearly untoned. It could not have been dipped after 1990 or so, as it came to me in an OGH of the 1989-1990 era. I otherwise avoid this type of coin because they can develop brown toning or spots as they age. The "poppin' fresh" DCAM coins that look like they are still wet from the dip jar are instant rejections when I'm shopping for proof Seated or Barbers. Some other people like them, but collectors tastes are known to vary from person to person.
Not being a proof expert, are you saying that dipping a coin can add to the frost? Or is it that dipping the coin removes the tarnish on the fields, and the frost is not affected, so it "enhances" the effect?
I thought dipping was just bad, in general. If it can add a ton of $$ to the price of a coin I can see why people would do it.
Or were you being sarcastic?
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PS- that T$ in the OP sure looks close to DCAM to me, if not all the way there. I love the black & white contrast on it and think that more than makes up for the hairlines.
PPS- I totally agree with BillJones' 61 DCAM *****essment.
The frost on a proof coin never improves after it leaves the mint, and certainly not by dipping. What dipping can do is make the frost more apparent to "earn" a DCAM rating. DCAM designations are rare on a lot of 19th century proofs so big money is at stake. During the market boom of 1996-2008 anything could be sold. So no one cared that formerly pretty toned CAMs were being turned into bright white DCAMs. They brought more money even if the coins were now antiseptic. I for one prefer a toned CAM over a dipped DCAM. Dipping can make the original frost more apparent on a toned proof. It can also weaken the amount of frost that is there....that's the risk you take.
I always enjoy the CAMs that look just as good or better than the DCAMs.
Still beats mine though by a long shot!
Here is one article;
http://news.coinupdate.com/deep-cameo-vs-mirror-1303/
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You got a pretty nice grade on that coin. I would have called it PR58.
Glad you don't grade for PCGS. That's rough.
I have read that it depends on the frosty figures/letters and mirrored fields that reach a certain depth (6 inches or greater?). I really don't care for lower grade Proofs and Proof-Likes because of the chatter marks are so heavily emphasized in the fields.
Still beats mine though by a long shot!
Here is one article;
http://news.coinupdate.com/deep-cameo-vs-mirror-1303/
Yea I think the main problem was the reverse letters weren't frosty enough to go dcam. Jmo.
Awesome!
I could understand if the fields are abraded enough that you can no longer discern an effective 6" of deep mirrors. That makes sense. You really have to say that a DCAM ends somewhere, say in the AU58-PR61 range. I wouldn't want a "DCAM" coin where the devices were fully frosty and contrasted yet the fields had massive breaks in them from contact/friction. If the rims are fully frosty and contrasted, the rest of the coin should usually follow along.