What's the best way to sell "details" slabs

BIGAL2749 · November 19, 2015 10:59AM

Who do members use as an outlet to sell

After yrs. of wife's "encouragements" it's time to dispose of those mistakes accumulated over 40 yrs. They're things like XF+ CBH and type coins with Unc details (cleaned) but with very light hairlines, and Indians with questionable color. Example is a 20 cent piece with hairlines I hadn't seen till yrs after owning it.

If my photo skills weren't so horrible I'd probably do best with Ebay BINs with reasonable prices but with poor images I might have a hard time getting VF money for a Unc details slab.

Thanks in advance for suggestions

keyman64 · November 19, 2015 11:36AM

A lot of people crack them out, photograph them well and just list problem coins on eBay. People might start them at 99 cent auctions and let them fly. Or you could just leave them in their current holders and sell them the that way. I say quality photos are a must either way. I see the crack out with crappy/deceptive photos as unethical.

lkeigwin · November 19, 2015 11:48AM

Some details coins are really questionable. Everyone's heard many stories of details coins later grading problem-free.

When I acquire a marginal one I free it from its holder and stick it in an envelope for a while. On a sill, near humidity and/or temperature swings. In other words, let it age and tone. Often they will grade just fine.

If this doesn't suit you then take your chances with eBay and low bids for problem coins. You won't do very well but the missus will approve.

Lance.

bigjpst · November 19, 2015 11:50AM

I agree quality photos are very important if you believe the coins are nice even with the problems. Otherwise people will assume the problems are worse than they are and people will bid accordingly. There are a couple people here on the forum who make a living taking photos and the one I have dealt with has very reasonable costs for the photos you would need for eBay.

Broadstruck · November 19, 2015 11:55AM

It's best to sell them in the details holders as at least the buyers know they are genuine. There's quite a few eBay consignment selling members here you could use. Airplanenut comes highly recommended and donates a portion of his percentage toward cancer research. He's got quite a following on eBay as to date I've never won anything from his listings I've had an interest in.

DollarAfterDollar · November 19, 2015 12:22PM

If you're not good with pictures maybe work out something with the guys in your area who are. Seems at worse they may need a trip by mail. I'm sure the non-show price would be reasonable.

Bust halves etc will sell almost anywhere even in details holders. But people want acceptable pictures to decide by.

As an option you may want to send your stuff to Shane (kryptonitecomics). He takes excellent pictures and lists things in his E-Bay store for you. He's at 10% plus E-Bay/PayPal's 6% or so but all you have to do is lick a stamp.

He's got a huge following so your coins will get the proper exposure.

He's on this board and ATS.

I promise, I had paragraphs when I typed that.

TwoSides2aCoin · November 19, 2015 3:15PM

I use me. I am an outlet and a plug at the same time.

jtlee321 · November 19, 2015 4:16PM

I have a similar issue. I have a few higher grade early Washington Quarters that were rescued from a Bullion dealers 90% box. Because they were pretty well covered in gunk, I gave them a very very quick dip and rinsed with warm soapy water, then rinsed with distilled water and then given a final acetone bath. A few of them have some hairlines on the obverse that became visible after the dip, the reverses are flawless. I will do as Ikeigwin has suggested and put them in an envelope and hopefully they will age well. I'd rather wait and let time do it's job, then to get them into details holders. I know they have not been cleaned, just tossed around with about $200.00 face in other quarters.

So my suggestion would be to put them in envelopes and wait. Why not, you've already waited this long.

TwoSides2aCoin · November 19, 2015 9:39PM

Upon reading the remedial actions necessary to salvage the issue "details", the clear answer to the question is simpler when faced with the real question :

"How do you best sell a problem coin ? "

BillJones · November 19, 2015 10:01PM

It all depends upon what the coins are and what's wrong with them.

If it is a key date that is often counterfeited, like a 1909-S-VDB cent, I'd leave it in the holder. The most important thing is for perspective buyers to know that the coin is genuine.

There are still some areas of the hobby where certification is not as important. For example I once owned an early large cent that was among the finest examples for its Sheldon variety. The coin came back in a body bag when I tried to get it certified. I then sent it to the "old ANACS" where they gave it a straight grade in a slab. When I got ready to sell it in the annual EAC auction, I cracked it out of the ANACS slab because I thought that it would sell better raw at that venue.

I was right. It sold for a strong price. Later someone else submitted it to PCGS, and it got a straight grade that time. I was a little disappointed with that, but at least I got my money for the coin.

ricko · November 19, 2015 10:55PM

Keep them in the slab, good pictures and likely you will get the best price on ebay from

new collectors or those who want to fill a hole. Sometimes the BST works well when you figure

ebay fees....Cheers, RickO

oih82w8 · November 19, 2015 11:06PM

It would depend on what the "details" were.

I have a 1849 Seated Dollar that was identified as "Questionable Color", but I thought (and still do) that it is a good looking coin and thought about cracking and seeing if it would tone (more) to an acceptable level and resubmit to our host...or see what NGC has to say.

This is the envelope that came along with the coin.

LindeDad · November 20, 2015 12:18AM

A VF problem coin is never going to get my VF money anywhere. Don't really think I'm alone in that feeling.

roadrunner · November 20, 2015 2:55AM

Originally posted by: LindeDad

A VF problem coin is never going to get my VF money anywhere. Don't really think I'm alone in that feeling.

It depends on the price guide in use. A couple years ago I paid CDN AU50 "bid" for an 1858-s quarter that had XF45 details and a fairly old faint cleaning. I sold the coin in a genuine holder for 2X what I paid. I'd have been happy if the coin straight graded anywhere from VF35 to XF45. Someday, it probably will.

LindeDad · November 20, 2015 3:47AM

Originally posted by: roadrunner

Originally posted by: LindeDad

A VF problem coin is never going to get my VF money anywhere. Don't really think I'm alone in that feeling.

It depends on the price guide in use. A couple years ago I paid CDN AU50 "bid" for an 1858-s quarter that had XF45 details and a fairly old faint cleaning. I sold the coin in a genuine holder for 2X what I paid. I'd have been happy if the coin straight graded anywhere from VF35 to XF45. Someday, it probably will.

I realize dealers can invest the time and money but for the most part collectors are on the loosing end of most deals on them.

BlindedByEgo · November 20, 2015 4:08AM

Before counterfeit holders became an issue, I often sent clearly impaired but better date/ type coins to be holdered at ANACS - I found that, for the price of grading, they brought better prices than they would have as raw on eBay.

I assume that most of the coins that you are talking about are not so clear-cut regarding cleaning, etc. I've had many coins over the years (even from PCGS) come back as market-acceptable non-net graded, where I thought that they'd not have a chance.

Alternately, I've had coins where I either missed something, or disagreed with the bodybag or details holder. Like many here, I've resubmitted on occasion and gotten the coins into problem-free holders.

Cracking out a "wobbler" net-graded coin and selling them as problem-free, with no disclosure is done often on eBay, however, when I sell I'll generally say something like "toned over a possible old cleaning - but I always accept returns if you don't like the coin"

My photos always seem to show every coins defects in their worst possible way - so I might get lower prices, but I get good feedback and darn few returns. I can live with that.

johnny9434 · November 20, 2015 5:21AM

Originally posted by: keyman64
A lot of people crack them out, photograph them well and just list problem coins on eBay. People might start them at 99 cent auctions and let them fly. Or you could just leave them in their current holders and sell them the that way. I say quality photos are a must either way. I see the crack out with crappy/deceptive photos as unethical.

agreed.

AMRC · November 20, 2015 5:54AM

Post them as is (slabbed with the problem clearly stated) in an eBay auction and let them run. Then write it off. let them become someone else's "problem" coin and you walk away having done the right thing. Anyone cracking out a coin that is known to have been in a details holder, then sells it without disclosing that problem, is being unethical.

NotSure · November 20, 2015 7:56AM

"What's the best way to sell "details" slabs?"

Whichever way 'eternitycoin' on ebay does it. Seems they make a coupla quid doing it, and their buyers are always SUPER happy!

What's the best way to sell "details" slabs

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