Dan Carr haters not allowed

Justacommeman · September 24, 2015 8:48PM

I have most issues and I've kept them in the plastic as issued. A few are starting to tone in a not so flattering manner which begs the question. How do you store yours? Pics are welcomed! I was thinking about placing them in albums....

tia mark

keets · September 24, 2015 9:01PM

AirTites.

PerryHall · September 24, 2015 9:15PM

Put them in polyethylene sleeves and put them back in the original flip.

DrBuster · September 24, 2015 9:32PM

I've got one in my pocket usually. The rest I've left in the original flips and haven't seen any toning....

7Jaguars · September 24, 2015 9:33PM

I have the same problem. The paper info slips may be contributing a bit of sulfa??
Funny you should mention it as I was just looking at that Oregon Trail of his - wow, beautiful!!

1940coupe · September 24, 2015 9:44PM

the ones I have that are starting to tone its on the right side top of all of them? and they have never been out of flip

jessewvu · September 24, 2015 9:58PM

I keep all mine in their original flips. I have close to 100 of his coins now going back to the first coins he struck on his Denver mint press. I wish he had a subscription program...

JCLIGHTBRIGADE · September 24, 2015 10:35PM

The ones I have in flips have toning, generally a brownish gold. I haven't looked at the ones I had graded by anacs in a few years but don't recall any of them toning.

CaptHenway · September 24, 2015 10:45PM

<< I have most issues and I've kept them in the plastic as issued. A few are starting to tone in a not so flattering manner which begs the question. How do you store yours? Pics are welcomed! I was thinking about placing them in albums....

tia mark >>

I assume that you are enjoying the benefits of air conditioning? Humidity is a female dog. That's why I used to tell people how to store their coins "Move to Colorado."

Lakesammman · September 24, 2015 10:49PM

ANACS holders.

TopographicOceans · September 24, 2015 10:52PM

I don't hate Dan Carr, but I don't collect his products.

That makes storage very easy for me.

ricko · September 24, 2015 11:01PM

Most of my dcarr products are as received, no tarnish yet.... one piece that I keep on display has darkened a shade, but barely noticeable. Cheers, RickO

winky · September 24, 2015 11:01PM

I am beginning to think that RAW is better. Expensive plastic is beginning to suck.

PerryHall · September 24, 2015 11:06PM

<< I don't hate Dan Carr, but I don't collect his products.

That makes storage very easy for me. >>

Unknown · September 24, 2015 11:22PM

This content has been removed.

AngryTurtle · September 24, 2015 11:48PM

<< 

<< I don't hate Dan Carr, but I don't collect his products.

That makes storage very easy for me. >>

>>

PerryHall · September 25, 2015 12:11AM

As far as Dan Carr coins and medals go they should be no different than any other coins and medals and any storage protocols for them should work for Dan Carr's products. If you can't keep them in a cool dry environment, get some silica jell canisters and put the coins and the canister in a sealed container such as Tupperware or in a sealable plastic bag.

TwoSides2aCoin · September 25, 2015 12:24AM

I use four letter words.

Carr does fine work. Love that.

^There are a few of them ^

cmerlo1 · September 25, 2015 12:27AM

<< ANACS holders. >>

This.

dcarr · September 25, 2015 1:08AM

The paper I use is ordinary computer printer paper. This, like almost all modern papers, is very low in sulfur content.

Contaminated air can enter near the top of the flip. That is what causes the toning.

If the toning is still relatively light, I think a "dipping" would help stabilize it (if done correctly, of course).

CaptHenway · September 25, 2015 1:24AM

Are your flips non-PVC?

Zoins · September 25, 2015 1:41AM

<< AirTites. >>

+1

AUandAG · September 25, 2015 1:54AM

Sometimes I envy those that live in humid parts of the country. Other times, I'm happy to live in Nevada
as we do not have toning problems of any sort. Humidity has to be the key to what is happening. Keeping
them in a "dry" climate will solve those problems.

bob

Coinosaurus · September 25, 2015 2:47AM

Dan made our club medal. I've seen no issues with the silver or gold ones, but the copper ones (apparently 100% copper) have turned within a few years. Occasional spots or patches of yellow/brown/red color. If I had it to do again I would have gotten the copper ones sonically sealed from day one. This is nothing against Dan - the product is great - we just should have done a better job with storage.

OPA · September 25, 2015 2:58AM

<< 

<< AirTites. >>

+1 >>

+2

Baley · September 25, 2015 3:01AM

CaptHenway · September 25, 2015 3:41AM

<< Dan made our club medal. I've seen no issues with the silver or gold ones, but the copper ones (apparently 100% copper) have turned within a few years. Occasional spots or patches of yellow/brown/red color. If I had it to do again I would have gotten the copper ones sonically sealed from day one. This is nothing against Dan - the product is great - we just should have done a better job with storage. >>

They should be hermetically sealed!

And kept on Funk & Wagnalls back porch!

illini420 · September 25, 2015 3:48AM

Dan Carr makes our coin club medals and as soon as they get delivered, we put just about all of them in hard plastic Guardhouse capsules. Some of them, like all that we have struck in .999 gold, get sent right to ANACS for encapsulation.

Never had an issue with any of them toning... except for the ones that we ordered to be artificially toned

Bigpoppas · September 25, 2015 4:59AM

I have hundreds of pieces that are still in their original flips and I haven't had any problems at all .. A couple smaller silver pieces developed light toning near the top rim , but nothing drastic ..
I would think that Anacs or airtites is definitely the way to go as to eliminate any possibilities .

I've used wooden cigar boxes to store them prior to the safe deposit box, so maybe that may have helped my situation .. Don't know ???

The only really strangely rainbow toned one I have was bought off of eBay .. It may have been someone's science experiment gone wrong, but I've been meaning to send Dan a picture for his thoughts .. It's an older 39mm silver Amero and was not artificially done by Dan.

dcarr · September 25, 2015 5:42AM

<< Are your flips non-PVC? >>

Yes, always non-PVC "archival" flips.

OldEastside · September 25, 2015 6:08AM

My MIC Ike has a golden tone around the rim and edges..........however its not in a DC flip
all other DC stuff is untoned

Steve

7over8 · September 25, 2015 10:12AM

When will Dan do an overstrike CC Morgan? How about an 1895-CC (just like the 1895 date)

dcarr · September 25, 2015 11:11AM

<< When will Dan do an overstrike CC Morgan? How about an 1895-CC (just like the 1895 date) >>

"1895" would not be a fantasy-date in the Morgan Dollar date series because 1895 Morgan Dollars exist. So I wouldn't do that one.
I've been asked several times to do a non-proof (business strike) "1895 Morgan dollar. The problem with that is, if were worn down it could look the same as an original circulated 1895 proof issue.

I do plan to do some sort of "CC" fantasy-date over-strike at some point. But it will have to be a DATE that doesn't exist for that type.
Like an "1872-CC" over-strike Trade Dollar.

If I do another Morgan Dollar over-strike it would probably be a "1920".

mariner67 · September 25, 2015 11:38AM

<< Dan Carr makes our coin club medals and as soon as they get delivered, we put just about all of them in hard plastic Guardhouse capsules. Some of them, like all that we have struck in .999 gold, get sent right to ANACS for encapsulation.

Never had an issue with any of them toning... except for the ones that we ordered to be artificially toned

>>

I think that is just about the most beautiful medal I have ever seen.

Zoins · September 25, 2015 1:31PM

<< I think that is just about the most beautiful medal I have ever seen.

>>

That is a wonderful specimen. Dan is very artistic, creative and does some great work! It's always great to see his work for coin club medals.

Zoins · September 25, 2015 1:33PM

Did anyone here pick up the R8 gold Fort Collins that was recently offered. It was minted 10 years ago and looks new - also in an AirTite.

Very nice to see some of these rare, historical pieces!

edix2001 · September 25, 2015 1:55PM

I've got a bit of toning here and there, but I don't hate it. I've transferred most to Saflips for convenience, with a few in capsules.

PerryHall · September 25, 2015 7:04PM

<< I've got a bit of toning here and there, but I don't hate it. I've transferred most to Saflips for convenience, with a few in capsules. >>

There no need to transfer to Saflips since Dan Carr has already stated that he uses archival quality flips. Dan didn't say what brand but it's probably some Mylar material which is inert and non-reactive to coin metals. As I stated before, just put the coin in a polyethylene sleeve and put it back in the flip. Coin capsules work fine but they are thick and make the flips too bulky.

7over8 · September 25, 2015 9:20PM

<< If I do another Morgan Dollar over-strike it would probably be a "1920". >>

Then I would go with a date such as "1877-CC"
19XX dates are not for the Morgan purists.........1877 would sell much better than 1920

GhosOfRudy · September 26, 2015 3:23AM

<< 

<< If I do another Morgan Dollar over-strike it would probably be a "1920". >>

Then I would go with a date such as "1877-CC"
19XX dates are not for the Morgan purists.........1877 would sell much better than 1920 >>

1886, 1887 and 1888 CC all would be neat.

cameonut2011 · September 26, 2015 2:49PM

<< I have most issues and I've kept them in the plastic as issued. A few are starting to tone in a not so flattering manner which begs the question. How do you store yours? Pics are welcomed! I was thinking about placing them in albums....

tia mark >>

In the smelter...

I'm only kidding.

On a more serious note, I interpreted your post as a desire to prevent further toning so I am confused as to why you would think about storing them in an album? Why not store it in an Airtite or Intercept Shield holder? For awkward sizes, a mylar flip and then stored in a larger Intercept Shield box would be my route.

Justacommeman · September 26, 2015 5:59PM

<< 

<< I have most issues and I've kept them in the plastic as issued. A few are starting to tone in a not so flattering manner which begs the question. How do you store yours? Pics are welcomed! I was thinking about placing them in albums....

tia mark >>

In the smelter...

I'm only kidding.

On a more serious note, I interpreted your post as a desire to prevent further toning so I am confused as to why you would think about storing them in an album? Why not store it in an Airtite or Intercept Shield holder? For awkward sizes, a mylar flip and then stored in a larger Intercept Shield box would be my route. >>

I don't mind flattering toning. The few out of hundreds that have started to tone are less then flattering

Air tights may be the way to go in the interim. I kind of wish DC would do a 7070 for his issues.

mark

dcarr · September 26, 2015 7:06PM

<< Air tights may be the way to go in the interim. I kind of wish DC would do a 7070 for his issues.

mark >>

I've contemplated making some sort of album(s). But the main problem is that such albums would quickly become obsolete due to new issues coming out.
For example, although I haven't issued any Ameros or Hard Times tokens for a while, I am planning to do some more this year.

For the specific category of fantasy-date over-strike coins, an actual DANSCO 7070 (or similar) album could be used.
My eventual goal is to make a fantasy-date coin for every type.

dcarr · September 26, 2015 7:09PM

<< 

<< 

<< If I do another Morgan Dollar over-strike it would probably be a "1920". >>

Then I would go with a date such as "1877-CC"
19XX dates are not for the Morgan purists.........1877 would sell much better than 1920 >>

1886, 1887 and 1888 CC all would be neat. >>

Since 1886, 1887, & 1888 Morgan dollar dates exist (albeit without CC mint marks), they wouldn't qualify for my criteria as a "fantasy-date" (even with a "CC" mint mark).
1877-CC would be a possibility. It would have to be an 8-tail-feather, of course

1940coupe · September 26, 2015 7:31PM

Dan Carr I know you haven't made mercury dime , walking half ! 2016 anniversary 1916 coming up are you going to strike something before mint makes there gold?

leothelyon · September 27, 2015 12:35AM

PCGS could do wonders for Dan Carr's fantasy products........and do away with all these cheap flips and 2nd market holders. Heck, there just might be some new creations of Registry sets to put them in.

Leo

IrishMikey · September 27, 2015 3:24AM

Definitely agree with the ANACS holder as an answer. I have picked up a number of Dan Carr pieces that were already
in an ANACS holder, probably from a collector that changed interests. Some of the medal issues are spectacular!

dcarr · September 27, 2015 6:58AM

<< Dan Carr I know you haven't made mercury dime , walking half ! 2016 anniversary 1916 coming up are you going to strike something before mint makes there gold? >>

Yes, I am planning to do some things later this year for the 100th anniversary of the three new 1916 coins.
Plans include fantasy-date over-strikes, as well as 40mm silver rounds in the same format as my previous 1913-2013 Indian Head Bison nickel centennial:

Potential fantasy dates include:

Winged Liberty Head Dime: "1915", "1922", "1932", "1933", "1946", "2016".
Standing Liberty Quarter: "1915" (type 1), "1922", "1932", "1933", "2016". (Already did "1931").
Walking Liberty Half: "1915" (obverse mint mark), "1922", "1924", "1925", "1926", "1930", "1931", "1932", "1948", "2016".

dcarr · September 27, 2015 7:22AM

<< PCGS could do wonders for Dan Carr's fantasy products........and do away with all these cheap flips and 2nd market holders. Heck, there just might be some new creations of Registry sets to put them in.
Leo

>>

Personally I consider current ANACS to be one of the three "1st market" certifications.

At the recent Long Beach show I briefly met with David Hall. I pointed out that the PCGS Tokens an Medals criteria indicates that items listed in the Krause Unusual World Coins Catalog (6th Edition, US section) are eligible for PCGS certification. In that section of that catalog, there are two sub-sections of note: "Daniel Carr Prototype State Quarter" (starting on page 691); and "Daniel Carr Prototype Dollars" (starting on page 694). The latter includes listings for my "1964-D" Peace Dollar over-strikes as well as my "1975" and "1975-D" Eisenhower Dollar over-strikes. The Krause catalog listings of my related items are far from complete, but perhaps some will be added in future editions. The current (6th) edition also lists my concept state quarters, parody state quarters, small dollar concepts, and the 2007 Seated Liberty Trade Dollar. Many of my Ameros coins are also listed, but they are in the "Union of North America" section, not the United States section.

Mr. Hall suggested that I send an email with all the particulars for PCGS to consider. Done.

dcarr · September 27, 2015 7:29AM

<< 

<< 

<< I have most issues and I've kept them in the plastic as issued. A few are starting to tone in a not so flattering manner which begs the question. How do you store yours? Pics are welcomed! I was thinking about placing them in albums....

tia mark >>

In the smelter...

I'm only kidding.

On a more serious note, I interpreted your post as a desire to prevent further toning so I am confused as to why you would think about storing them in an album? Why not store it in an Airtite or Intercept Shield holder? For awkward sizes, a mylar flip and then stored in a larger Intercept Shield box would be my route. >>

I don't mind flattering toning. The few out of hundreds that have started to tone are less then flattering

Air tights may be the way to go in the interim. I kind of wish DC would do a 7070 for his issues.

mark >>

If a piece has just started to tone unattractively, I recommend a "dipping" to reverse and stabilize it. Once the toning is dark and/or "thick", it is too late as that would result in cloudiness after dipping. A dipping will also greatly reduce the chances of any "milk spotting" down the road.
Occasionally, as needed, I use "Tarn-X" silver cleaner (available at Wallgreens or similar). Submerge the coin for 10 seconds or so, thoroughly rinse with water, and then pat dry with a clean soft bath towel (never rub it).

cameonut2011 · September 28, 2015 11:35AM

Mr. Carr: Why not slab these in PCGS like slabs, but with your own logo and what not. It would help provide an inert holder for these. And for your contemplation (I do not want to side track the thread), it might also help ameliorate some concerns that your opponents have.

Dan Carr haters not allowed

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