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Preserving this chain cent. (removing corrosion)
Alltheabove76
Posts: 1,520 ✭✭✭✭
I need some advice on this coin from someone that really knows copper. This coin is in an old ANACS holder. I want to remove the green active corrossioon from the surface without further damaging the coin. Is this something PCGS conservation service would do?
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peacockcoins
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>Send it to NGC or PCGS for professional conservation. Nothing can be done to make this coin more than a candidate for a "GENUINE" slab but you can at least stop further corrosion. >>
I definitely am not expecting it to get graded. But, it is a very valuable coin and would look much better without the green stuff.
My Early Large Cents
I know it can be made to look better than it is now, but it will never get in problem free holder.
There is a few thing you can try.
1) soak it in aceatone. to begin and see what it looks like after that.
Lance.
Some verdigris comes off pretty easily but some just won't. I just gave up on some this week that I have been working on for 2 years.
The example you posted looks like it will be tough to remove.
I am not sure how the conservation services do it. I would think with the proper equipment and magnification, most anything could be removed now days.
It will leave damage but at least it will be inactive going forward.
<< <i>I've heard old time collectors say that arsenic can arrest and darken green corrosion, but I don't know if that is true or not. For this coin, I was say that arresting the corrosion and possibly darkening it would be a positive step. >>
I'm not sure I'd want to mess with arsenic. In fact I'm not even sure where to buy it. Remember J. Sanford Saltus who was dipping large cents in a glass of cyanide with a similar glass of ginger ale on his table? While concentrating on his coins, he accidentally took a drink from the wrong glass.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
you or the services have access to.
More aggressive mechanical methods, like careful work with a fine dremel, and then followed up with some burnishing to smooth it a bit,
may make it a little more visually appealing. I don't know if Al Stockton does this type of work or not - contacting him, or a copper pro like Bob Grellman, may give some additional insight.
I have no idea if something like a laser could be of benefit - or how you'd arrange for someone to do that.
<< <i>I think Lance and Flatwoods nailed it - i.e., there's not much you can do about it....I don't care what kind of chemical
you or the services have access to.
More aggressive mechanical methods, like careful work with a fine dremel, and then followed up with some burnishing to smooth it a bit,
may make it a little more visually appealing. I don't know if Al Stockton does this type of work or not - contacting him, or a copper pro like Bob Grellman, may give some additional insight.
I have no idea if something like a laser could be of benefit - or how you'd arrange for someone to do that. >>
I'd rather do nothing that what you are suggesting. The corrosion is probably stable if the coin is kept in a dry environment.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>
<< <i>I think Lance and Flatwoods nailed it - i.e., there's not much you can do about it....I don't care what kind of chemical
you or the services have access to.
More aggressive mechanical methods, like careful work with a fine dremel, and then followed up with some burnishing to smooth it a bit,
may make it a little more visually appealing. I don't know if Al Stockton does this type of work or not - contacting him, or a copper pro like Bob Grellman, may give some additional insight.
I have no idea if something like a laser could be of benefit - or how you'd arrange for someone to do that. >>
I'd rather do nothing that what you are suggesting. The corrosion is probably stable if the coin is kept in a dry environment. >>
Would be so much more eye-appealing without the green. The arsenic idea sounds promising, but not something I would take on myself.
My Early Large Cents
I suspect PCGS conservation services might treat your coin, but they won't tell you what they're planning to do, before they do it; thus, I wouldn't go that route.
I posted successful before-and-after images on a recent thread about VerdiCare. It helped quite a bit on some Lincolns I pulled from change. But the verdigris wasn't a century or two old.
Lance.
Although I was just fooling around, I had no real hope that I would "get into" as much as I did so I did not take any "before" photos. But the coin was pretty far gone and even after I had removed the verdigris the damage to the copper surface still remained apparent. BUT the coin looked much better.
If you look closely at these photos, you can clearly tell where the verdigris was, but there is very little of what was a very significant amount of it left on the coin.
I have some reservation about sharing the specifics about what I did to make this happen, as I do not want to educate anyone with mal-intent, and I am sure some will question that it could not have been as bad as the Chain Cent that is called out by the OP. And that's fine, but I will tell you it was much more pervasive than what you see on the Chain cent.
Share. It's preservation and once removed it's still going into an ED holder. What's to fear?
<< <i>I thick you did an excellent job on that 42 lg cent
Share. It's preservation and once removed it's still going into an ED holder. What's to fear? >>
Yes. How did you do it? Inquiring minds want to know.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>Strongly resist the urge to "do something". >>
Personally I am way too scared to ruin a 10K coin to touch it myself. But if there is a professional out there who can conserve it and remove the green, then I am interested. That green stuff is hard on the eyes.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>DREMEL??????????? I cannot even imaging the words "Chain Cent" and "Dremel" even being in the same Thread!
I didn't say I would do it but I am sure there are those that would.
for those coins subjected to it. From a Heritage archive last year:
After being tooled, the entire coin has been retoned to light brown, olive, and steel. While all of that work may seem unfortunate, we suspect that the coin was highly unattractive before any of that restoration work occurred. Despite all of its shortcomings, this is still a most attractive Chain cent.
This coin sold for $33,000.....
type2,CCHunter.
May as well use a chain saw.
Probably they are all hidden in the back alleys of Numisville. A very secret and dangerous place in
parts unknown.
Good luck.
Here is his secret:
1. bring water to a boil with salt in it,
2. Place the copper coin in the boiling water and let it boil for one minute,
3. Take the coin out, cool it and rinse with water and dishwashing liquid,
4. Coat the coin with Crisco cooking oil and let it soak for several minutes,
5. Use a paper towel and take off the Crisco.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>A forum member shared this method with me by PM and I gave it a try on a low value old copper. Pretty decent results. But, I just cant bring myself to do it to a 10K chain cent.
Here is his secret:
1. bring water to a boil with salt in it,
2. Place the copper coin in the boiling water and let it boil for one minute,
3. Take the coin out, cool it and rinse with water and dishwashing liquid,
4. Coat the coin with Crisco cooking oil and let it soak for several minutes,
5. Use a paper towel and take off the Crisco.
Salt and Copper! All that happened here was that the copper got stripped and essentially most of the corrosion is still in place. DO NOT PUT SALT NEAR COPPER.
i read most of the posts but didn't see anyone mention mineral oil. from what i recall from many posts on the boards is that it takes a while but works better than olive oil.
i've only used olive oil for short-term and light surface contaminants. don't know about long term use of it. the stuff seems to break down rather quickly and is a pain to get off of hands/bowls/glass etc.
.
<< <i>Send it to NGC or PCGS for professional conservation. Nothing can be done to make this coin more than a candidate for a "GENUINE" slab but you can at least stop further corrosion. >>
agreed with.
AMRC has some skills with preservation of old copper.
Please share!