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What is the best way to store copper?

DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭✭✭
I've read several threads and heard of several different techniques for storing copper (even an nitrogen filled chamber).

What do you consider the best method for home?

For the bank vault, I don't know of any choices other than desiccant, so that's what I use there.

Any experts out there, please feel free to chime in.
Doug

Comments

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In slabs, a dessicant, temperature controlled environment. Raw, that is much more

    difficult - I suggest a vacuum seal plastic container after an acetone/hot DI water rinse.

    Cheers, RickO
  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 44,444 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Copper is more reactive than silver. Subjected to the environment presents a unique situation and an even better question.
  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Don't use acetone or even distilled water on copper going into storage without coating it with mineral oil as your just asking for trouble.



    I'm totally against using acetone on copper as it dries it out and changes the color. I will not buy anything copper from anyone that mentions they use acetone on copper prior to TPG submission. I see enough copper at shows and auction preview that's turned in the holders. For long term ownership stick to using acetone only on silver and gold.
    To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,517 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I guess it would depend on the coin, and how much trouble you are willing to go to.

    For original red large cents or better date Indian cents, etc., I'd be making a special effort.
    Circ Lincoln cents, not so much.

    For the record, I've lived in FL over 13 years, a few miles from the coast, and own many large cents in slabs and 2x2 holders, and I don't make any special efforts with Nitrogen, dessicants, etc. Granted I keep them indoors in the AC or in the bank vault, but I have never seen any
    indication of them changing over time. I have used the old Blue Ribbon on many of the circs
    before sealing in 2x2's.


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  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Please do NOT use acetone on copper. Since we have so little humidity (if any) here in S. Nevada just send them to me for long term storage. Never have a problem with toning or turning, silver or copper. We do have plenty of heat but of course not in the home or bank. So, I think that it's the moisture in the air that does the trick on copper. Desiccant is the only solution. I have seen desiccant that is renewable in the Microwave and that may be the best bet.



    bob
    Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
  • DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I keep my best coins at the bank, but that doesn't mean I want my other slabbed copper to turn. The reason I'm a little paranoid is that I just moved to a new house and I'm not sure of the environment yet. I think I'm going go to the store and get a humidity tester and start from there.
    Doug
  • DMWJRDMWJR Posts: 6,010 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What level of humidity would I be looking to achieve?
    Doug
  • SonorandesertratSonorandesertrat Posts: 5,695 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Get indicating dessicant that is packed into small cartridges---these can be reused by simply putting them into an oven (>100 C) and baking for a few hours.

    If you are storing your coppers in a closed environment like a SDB, make sure that you keep sulfur sources (paper products, wood, rubber bands, etc) to a minimum. I also use new (red) cents as sacrificial coppers-just add half a dozen, loose, into the box.
    Member: EAC, NBS, C4, CWTS, ANA

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  • TPRCTPRC Posts: 3,794 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Good question and good thread. Acetone or no acetone...that is the question. I have seen the dried out effect that acetone imparts on copper. I have not seen it change appearance because of it...the coin just looks like it's thirsty. I have used Blue Ribbon judiciously, and that seems to solve the problem, and the TPGs don't seem to mind. But with Blue Ribbon, or with mineral oil, or other oils, skill is needed in application, as the coin can be overwhelmed in oil, and I have seen that as well. I'm no expert, but it seems like most of the old timers like a little oil of some type on their copper, while the newer generation and the slabbers don't.

    Tom

  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,235 ✭✭✭✭✭
    To start buy brown copper or R&B copper. The red stuff is too unstable. I've never been burned with toning issues on brown and R&B copper, but I have taken a hit with a couple red pieces. If you have to have red copper, slabs and very high quality albums are the way to go. Lucite holders can work too. Stay away from paper.


    Next always store in a temperature controlled environment. Be VERY AWARE of rapid changes in temperature. That means avoid going from warm to very cold or very cold to warm. This is especially important for copper in slabs. Trapped moisture is your enemy. That means if you have a some copper in safe deposit box and want to take it home don't mess around in the cold if it's winter. Get the stuff out of the bank and into your nice warm car and warm house quickly.


    Many of the copper people use cloth envelope liners or from years ago cloth lined envelopes. Those are good for circulated copper and brown Unc. copper, but I'm leery of for red and maybe R&B. Years ago I had some envelope liners that toned coins. They were not good.

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • georgiacop50georgiacop50 Posts: 2,909 ✭✭✭✭
    Just get rid of it. Too much risk. At least half of the certified red copper has been doctored.
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,235 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: georgiacop50
    Just get rid of it. Too much risk. At least half of the certified red copper has been doctored.


    I can agree with you to a point on red copper, but your advice to sell it all, including the brown and R&B pieces, is over the top. If you apply common sense storage techniques, you should have no problems. But if you store you coins in a safe in a garage or in your boiling hot and freezing cold attic, expect trouble. I've seen both storeage methods, and the results were not pretty.

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • winkywinky Posts: 1,671
    Originally posted by: georgiacop50
    Just get rid of it. Too much risk. At least half of the certified red copper has been doctored.



    I am definitely with you on this.
  • georgiacop50georgiacop50 Posts: 2,909 ✭✭✭✭
    Yes, BillJones, I did specifically say RED copper.

    Your advice to stick with RB or BR is sage...
  • Desert MoonDesert Moon Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I store all certified in plastic holders in Intercept Shield boxes and/or bags. Never had any problems and we are a humid area, where 50% humidity is a dry day.



    Best, SH
    My online coin store - https://desertmoonnm.com/
  • EagleEyeEagleEye Posts: 7,677 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It is important to actually look at the coins first. Take images too. If there is any hint of an active spot be careful it doesn't grow. Consider selling it if it does. If it is a spot free coin and was not tampered with, it is likely OK to store and enjoy for many years in a slab. A sealed container with fresh silica gel is likely good enough to eliminate moisture from the atmosphere. You could move to Tucson. Recent (1936-1982) coins should be better protected in slabs than when they were raw or in proof sets. Post 1992 zinc coins should be very carefully checked for corrosion. I saw a 1990 No S at Baltimore that had a huge corrosion area on the edge and part of the reverse. Worth $100?
    Rick Snow, Eagle Eye Rare Coins, Inc.Check out my new web site:
  • TopographicOceansTopographicOceans Posts: 6,535 ✭✭✭✭
    I just put it in my SDB. I only have one red large cent. Maybe I should look and see how it is doing?
  • luckybucksluckybucks Posts: 1,318 ✭✭✭
    I have been wrapping my copper in old cellophane wrappers.



    I am building mint sets fom the late 1920's to the end of WWII. Someone brought in original mint sets they built between 1949 and 1958, and wrapped all the coins in cellophane.



    They brought the collection in to my local coin shop last year, and the coins look just as nice as they did in 1950 (with some minor toning on the silver pieces).
  • LakesammmanLakesammman Posts: 17,409 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Have posted this many times over the years but when I had the #1 PCGS IHC registry set (with varieties) I would store the coins in the Intercept Shield holders/boxes and pack copper wool from the marine store around them, figuring if there was anything reactive in the "atmosphere", it would react with the wool first.



    Never had a coin turn in 10 years - all certified.



    There was a 1877 P66R coin that I thought was turning but after comparing pictures, it was paranoia and my imagination. image
    "My friends who see my collection sometimes ask what something costs. I tell them and they are in awe at my stupidity." (Baccaruda, 12/03).I find it hard to believe that he (Trump) rushed to some hotel to meet girls of loose morals, although ours are undoubtedly the best in the world. (Putin 1/17) Gone but not forgotten. IGWT, Speedy, Bear, BigE, HokieFore, John Burns, Russ, TahoeDale, Dahlonega, Astrorat, Stewart Blay, Oldhoopster, Broadstruck, Ricko, Big Moose.

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