Complete rookie here

Nikklos

Hey guys!

I am a frequent visitor to the sport card forum but this is my first post on the Coin Forum. I know nothing about coins. I do not know if this the appropriate venue and I for sure know any question I ask will be a stupid one!

I have been going through some coins that have been in the family for a while. I know nothing about coin grading or condition. But I have been able to determine that the vast majority of these coins are like my old childhood baseball cards. Meaning they might be worth something if they were in Mint condition but practically worthless as they stand.


But I have set aside a few of interest, If this is the appropriate forum, it would be great to post some pics and ask a couple of questions.

Like this, for example.

Is this a Mercury Dime? All the others I have seen face left. Is it even worth grading?



Thanks guys!

djm

No that is not a Mercury dime that is a Baber Dime. The value of the coin is low so it is not worth grading the coin is in the $15-25 range

clarkbar04

That is a barber dime, approx. grade G-VG, not worth a whole bunch and certainly not enough to warrant having it graded.

Is there a mintmark on the back? Could be a D or an S. An S will make it worth a little more.

DennisH

Mint marks are located on the reverse of Barber dimes, close to the rim at 6 o'clock. The possibilities are D and S.

Nikklos

Wow thanks so much guys!

Regarding the back - to be honest I can't really tell.

DennisH

No mint mark there, which means it was made in Philadelphia and is the most common and the least valuable of the 1910 possibilities.

BillJones

This is a Mercury Dime. They were issued from 1916 until 1945 when they were replaced by the Roosevelt Dime which has been issued since 1946.



This on is a Proof coin which was specifically made for collectors. Proof coins are made on specially polished planchets (coin blanks) that are struck with polished dies. This gives the coins bright luster and usually sharper design details.

The Barber Dime you have was issued from 1892 to 1916. Dimes date all the way back to 1796 when the first Philadelphia Mint issued the first examples. Here is a 1796 dime so that you can see the first of its kind.

TwoSides2aCoin

Next Best thing to a mentor

plus coinfacts ™

Welcome aboard.

Nikklos

Thanks! Really is a fascinating hobby. While I have you guys, how about something like this 1863 half-dime? Is something like this worth grading with the divot on it and all?



Also have this 1873 half-dime but from what I am seeing 1873 is not as desirable as the 1863




Thanks so much!

AUandAG

Welcome, and never clean or attempt to improve a coin. Leave as is. You 1863 dime is actually an 1853.

Get a RED BOOK of US Coins for a guide and prices (estimates).
LIKE HERE

bob

DennisH

The cut on the 1853 (damage) hurts a lot. It's also a low grade.

It is, BTW, a "with arrows" at date variety, as opposed to no arrows. With arrows is better than without, but your coin is probably only in the $10 range give or take. Maybe less. Only one mint mark is in play, an O that would be located in the same place as with the Barber dime.

1873 is about equally desirable as a date, but yours appears to be cleaned and is probably also in the $10 range.

TheRaven

That is 1853 not 1863. 1853 had arrows at the date, 1863 did not. The reason for the arrows was the lowering of the amount of silver in the coins.

Mint mark on the back?

Nikklos

I don't see any marks on this either.

BillJones

<< <i>I don't see any marks on this either.

>>



The mint mark, it there was one, would below the wreath on the reverse.

The amount of silver in all of the U.S. coins from the half dime to the half dollar (Except the Silver Three Cent Piece, but don't worry about that one for the moment. It will just confuse you.) was reduced because the discovery of gold in California changed the relative value of the two metals. The huge amount of gold that was taken from that strike made silver relatively more valuable which made it profitable to melt all of the U.S. silver coins that were then in circulation. The weight reduction combated that problem. The mintages for the 1853 "with arrows" coins were quite high.

The arrows at the date told people, "Don't melt me; it isn't worth your while."

asheland

topstuf

He called the reverse "the back."
Can we allow him to stay?

BryceM

Nikklos,

Welcome. Be warned that coin collecting can be rather addictive!

david3142

<< <i>He called the reverse "the back."
Can we allow him to stay? >>



I still do that, and I've been collecting 25 years! It's one less syllable.

coindeuce

<< <i>The cut on the 1853 (damage) hurts a lot. It's also a low grade.

It is, BTW, a "with arrows" at date variety, as opposed to no arrows. With arrows is better than without, but your coin is probably only in the $10 range give or take. Maybe less. Only one mint mark is in play, an O that would be located in the same place as with the Barber dime.

1873 is about equally desirable as a date, but yours appears to be cleaned and is probably also in the $10 range. >>



I think smoebody needs to review their Redbook. Ya got that underlined point bass ackwards. The No Arrows variety of half dime or dime in 1853 are substantially more scarce than the With Arrows variety.

Type2

Have fun....... If you need any info just post.

topstuf

<< <i>

<< <i>He called the reverse "the back."
Can we allow him to stay? >>



I still do that, and I've been collecting 25 years! It's one less syllable. >>




WELL STOP IT !!!
As we all know, it is the ...tails....!!!!

david3142

I call the obverse the front quite often too. Don't think I've ever referred to either side as heads or tails except when flipping. I also never realized that those terms were unusual until just now.

ricko

Welcome aboard Nikklos - coins are a lot of fun. There is much to learn, so take it slow....this is a great place to learn. Cheers, RickO

WhiteTornado

Welcome aboard, have seen you around the card forums.