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How to Sell a WLH Complete Dansco Collection?

Looking for thoughts on best way to sell a complete (1916-1947 all mints) Liberty Walking Half Dollar collection.
To give you an idea of the grade of coins selected, my cost was $20K. Highest price paid for any one coin is $1500.

Struggling with need to certify all to realize maximum value? Selling raw maybe tough too?

Thanks for your ideas.
Coiny

Comments

  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,427 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The first step would be to go through the collection with the Gray Sheet and see where you stand relative to bid and ask. Then you need to look at the key date and mint mark combinations. If they are nice coins for the grade you might want to get them certified. If they are not so hot then maybe you need to think about what you will take for the whole thing.

    The hard part is deciding if you are going to sell the whole thing at once or let dealers buy singles. The trouble with selling singles is that you might get cherry picked on all the good stuff and be left with junk. That's okay if you get good prices and recover a lot or more than your cost, but not so good if you are under paid for what is really desirable. Coin dealers can be like vultures in that regard, and they can be very aggressive.

    From the dealer's perspective I'll tell you that the key date and mint marks are the best part of the set. The other stuff often sells slowly. For example I bought a large accumulation Indian cents when I was a dealer. There was an 1877 with F-VF sharpness, but it had been cleaned. There were quite a few semi-key dates in the 1860s and '70s including nice circulated examples (VF to EF, my grading) of the 1870, '71 and '72 Indian cents. I got the 1877 slabbed in an ANACS holder, and it sold instantly. The other key date coins sold fast too. It took me a long time to sell the dates in the 1880s despite the fact they were very nice circulated coins that graded from Fine to EF, and I priced them along Gray Sheet lines. The negative attitude toward common dates that many collectors take makes it harder to sell these coins.

    I just tell you this so that you can make some decisions about how you want to market the set.

    Good Luck!!
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • SamByrdSamByrd Posts: 3,130 ✭✭✭✭
    The better Coins need to be slabbed and cac for best dollars in the market place. The others depending on grade maybe sell a short set for the 40's and sell the pre- 35 material one by one. One aspects is the BST is free to list and maybe you will get a buyer for the set as a whole as a first attempt to sell the set.
  • SmEagle1795SmEagle1795 Posts: 2,135 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Looking for thoughts on best way to sell a complete (1916-1947 all mints) Liberty Walking Half Dollar collection.
    To give you an idea of the grade of coins selected, my cost was $20K. Highest price paid for any one coin is $1500.

    Struggling with need to certify all to realize maximum value? Selling raw maybe tough too?

    Thanks for your ideas. >>



    When did you spend $20K for it? That will factor in significantly to any estimation on quality. Could you take some quick pictures to give the forum an overall feel of the coins?
    Learn about our world's shared history told through the first millennium of coinage: Colosseo Collection
  • TheRavenTheRaven Posts: 4,143 ✭✭✭✭
    I was thinking that as well, when you assembled the set for 20k is as important as how much you spent.....

    Have you taken the set to a show or someplace to get it looked at to get a value of what you can get for it?
    Collection under construction: VG Barber Quarters & Halves
  • LindeDadLindeDad Posts: 18,766 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Consider that even a high end set of graded coins has lost about 25% of it's value in the last three years. I know that from personal experience sadly.image
  • RayboRaybo Posts: 5,273 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd be interested in 34-40. image
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 30,977 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you have a mix of vf coins and ms 64s, etc. that will turn off a lot of buyers since it is such a mismatched set.
  • MarkInDavisMarkInDavis Posts: 1,697 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I'd be interested in 34-40. image >>



    Likewise. And 33 as well.

    To get max value I think you would need to certify many of them and sell individually. Start with the BST and move on from there. Good Luck!
    image Respectfully, Mark
  • ebaybuyerebaybuyer Posts: 2,984 ✭✭✭
    good luck to you, hopefully you didn't buy them prior to the market softening up. many of the more popular (more available) coin series took quite a beating.
    regardless of how many posts I have, I don't consider myself an "expert" at anything
  • I would recommend you take them to a large show where great collections is set up. They can talk to you about what's worth sending to PCGS and what is worth sending to anacs. Then let them submit and devise a marketin strategy and wait for the check. Should be easy, now if you don't live near any big shows give them a call and talk about it before mailing them.
  • BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,454 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd start with walkerguy21d. Met him, trust him, bought/sold from/to him. Greg is the guy I would send it or take it to
  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,114 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for the endorsement, Richard - yes, I'm always willing to help anyone with walkers!

    Successful BST transactions with 170 members. Recent: Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • CoinyCoiny Posts: 711 ✭✭
    Many thanks to all for your ideas. This really helps.
    Coiny
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,427 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>If you have a mix of vf coins and ms 64s, etc. that will turn off a lot of buyers since it is such a mismatched set. >>



    It has been my experience that the "mismatched set" thing is not that big of a deal. Sets like this are seldom sold intact and are usually broken up and sold as single coins. Therefore one should look at the individual values of the coins.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 30,977 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>If you have a mix of vf coins and ms 64s, etc. that will turn off a lot of buyers since it is such a mismatched set. >>



    It has been my experience that the "mismatched set" thing is not that big of a deal. Sets like this are seldom sold intact and are usually broken up and sold as single coins. Therefore one should look at the individual values of the coins. >>



    Of course it depends upon intentions of the buyer.
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,427 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>If you have a mix of vf coins and ms 64s, etc. that will turn off a lot of buyers since it is such a mismatched set. >>



    It has been my experience that the "mismatched set" thing is not that big of a deal. Sets like this are seldom sold intact and are usually broken up and sold as single coins. Therefore one should look at the individual values of the coins. >>



    Of course it depends upon intentions of the buyer. >>



    Most of the time the buyer will be a dealer. You will have to be very lucky to find a collector, who might pay you a bit more than a dealer. In that case the "matched set" concept might come into play.

    I don't know about other collectors, but I know that dealers who frequently force buyers to purchase an entire collection (aside from Proof and mint sets, of course) instead of selling single pieces, get on my nerves. If a guy plays those games all the time, and I've found very few of them over my years as a collector and dealer, they become the people I see last when I attend a coin show, and frequently I don't bother with them at all.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • RampageRampage Posts: 9,416 ✭✭✭✭
    Given the price you paid for the coins, I would certainly have the majority of the coins graded. I think you will net a better price if you do that. Just my opinion, of course. Good luck.



  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 22,719 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Collectors can only buy what they can afford- I have never been a fan of the matched set concept. Buy the nicest example for the date that you can afford. I will never be able to afford a 1919-D in 66 but there is no reason not to have a 1946-D in 66.

    It really should be about quality for the grade... nothing more, nothing less

    Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    A complete set of Walkers sounds attractive... so much depends on condition though... I cannot add to the great advice above, but it would be nice to understand the condition or see some pictures. Cheers, RickO
  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,114 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Collectors can only buy what they can afford- I have never been a fan of the matched set concept. Buy the nicest example for the date that you can afford. I will never be able to afford a 1919-D in 66 but there is no reason not to have a 1946-D in 66.

    It really should be about quality for the grade... nothing more, nothing less >>


    This.

    My own set ranges in grade from XF to MS66. With slabbed coins, I think individual coin appearance is more important than trying to make them match anyway. In an album though, I can see where matching is more appealing. I like the concept of 'matching by group', if you will. I've been working with a fellow forum member for some time on his set, where the early dates are F/VF, the middle dates are VF/XF, and the late dates are XF. I think this will be a very appealing set when completed.

    Successful BST transactions with 170 members. Recent: Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • I'd dhow them to an equally or more knowledgeable non-interested party. Perspective can be lost by the best. You might have some killers in there if you've been out a while.

    Eric
  • MowgliMowgli Posts: 1,219
    I agree with many comments written here.
    My 1934-47 set is UNC, the rest are AU (some UNCS as well) except for the 1919's and 1921 in XF and the 21d/s in VF.
    I have about $17K in this set - a Dansco actually.

    When I sell, I plan to sell the 34-47 as a set, raw. It isn't worth it to slab them as they are MS 63s.
    The others I plan to slab before selling just because most people want them slabbed.

    I only have one coin I paid more than a grand for so I have to conclude that your coins are nicer than mine and I would not sell them raw to a dealer - although I would consider consigning to one who would work with me.

    In the land of the blind the one-eyed man is king.
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,427 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Collectors can only buy what they can afford- I have never been a fan of the matched set concept. Buy the nicest example for the date that you can afford. I will never be able to afford a 1919-D in 66 but there is no reason not to have a 1946-D in 66.

    It really should be about quality for the grade... nothing more, nothing less >>



    I agree completely. Why should you have to limit your collection to a VF or EF collection of Walking Liberty half dollars if that is the best grade you can afford for the key dates like 1921? Why can't you place attractive Mint State coins in the common date slots?
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,454 ✭✭✭✭✭
    in my limited experience, price paid by the collector assembling the collection does not serve as a floor for price realized when selling.

    Some collectors try to "get a deal" when buying and aren't pleased when they are offered even less when selling. Seasoned collectors that buy with a discerning eye are generally rewarded with better prices when selling.

    But you all knew that...
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 30,977 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Collectors can only buy what they can afford- I have never been a fan of the matched set concept. Buy the nicest example for the date that you can afford. I will never be able to afford a 1919-D in 66 but there is no reason not to have a 1946-D in 66.

    It really should be about quality for the grade... nothing more, nothing less >>



    I don't mean that they have to be matched exactly, but to me vg10/f12 and ms66 don't make a very nice set. If you go xf at least you can find earlier dates that look more like new than they do circ. so to each their own.
  • BochimanBochiman Posts: 25,284 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>If you have a mix of vf coins and ms 64s, etc. that will turn off a lot of buyers since it is such a mismatched set. >>



    It has been my experience that the "mismatched set" thing is not that big of a deal. Sets like this are seldom sold intact and are usually broken up and sold as single coins. Therefore one should look at the individual values of the coins. >>



    Of course it depends upon intentions of the buyer. >>



    Most of the time the buyer will be a dealer. You will have to be very lucky to find a collector, who might pay you a bit more than a dealer. In that case the "matched set" concept might come into play.

    I don't know about other collectors, but I know that dealers who frequently force buyers to purchase an entire collection (aside from Proof and mint sets, of course) instead of selling single pieces, get on my nerves. If a guy plays those games all the time, and I've found very few of them over my years as a collector and dealer, they become the people I see last when I attend a coin show, and frequently I don't bother with them at all. >>




    Totally agree.....I have ran into a few of the dealers who had danscos of certain series I was doing, and a coin or two in there that I was willing to purchase, for a nice premium due to toning, but that the dealer wouldn't budge from the "have to buy the whole album". I left without the coins and seldom stop by their tables since.


    Good luck to the OP and I agree with the advice of grading the ones that are worth it (ie...value is in the plastic or when selling to someone who sees the real grade versus someone trying to talk it down and keep it cheaper). Would also suggest good pictures...whether that is you, truview (if you send in for grading) or having someone from the board do it.

    I also agree with Bill that the buyer is likely to be a dealer if you try to sell complete. I think many dealers would put the majority of price on the "big" coins and not really pay much of anything for the rest...just kind of a package deal.

    Best of luck

    I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment

  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,759 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I have never been a fan of the matched set concept. >>

    I agree. When selling to dealers, they won't care about matched sets. Their primary interests will be key and semi-key dates. Common dates will like need to be uber condition.


    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • Cougar1978Cougar1978 Posts: 7,539 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In evaluating such a raw set I would have to list each date individually, its grade, and what CDN Bid was based on the coins grade G-MS60. I would list the date, MM, and grade (AG-MS60).

    I would probably be at 20% back of bid. The ones needing slabbing to move at a decent price, I would deduct the cost of slabbing in arriving at an offer (I will not pay for an owners mistake of cracking nice slabs). If there were uncs, especially some which might make better than MS60 then I would up the offer accordingly but still leave myself plenty of room for risk, slab cost.

    I would suggest to a seller of such a set, get the nicer stuff slabbed to get top dollar and the other material you could liquidate on ebay starting at 99c.

    I bought a near complete circulated set from my table at a show in 2009 or 2010 for $300 after some haggling (pretty much everything at melt but the 38D). It took me about 18 months to flip it and realize what I wanted for it. The seller, in leaving, told me my offer was the highest, other dealers at the show had offered $100-250 and one had laughed at him "who's junk is this?."

    The set, entirely circulated, was missing numerous key dates and the only expensive coin was a 1938-D around VF30. When bullion prices went up in 2011 I did well on the low grade stuff but I had to slab the 1938-D in order to move it. The ebay buyers would not buy a raw piece at retail. Teletrade raw coin service came thru on that. It was good experience in both evaluating and flipping circulated Walkers. I think my proceeds from flipping it would have been near break even except for the bullion price increase in 2011.

    Walking Liberty Halves are a fascinating series to collect. In retrospect I wish had kept the coins and completed, upgraded the set.

    So Cali Area - Coins & Currency

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