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1910-D IHC
renman95
Posts: 7,037 ✭✭✭✭✭
And that's when the fight broke out.
The '33 Washington, '64 Frankie, '70 Ike, '64 Peace I get. But this?
The '33 Washington, '64 Frankie, '70 Ike, '64 Peace I get. But this?
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renman95
Posts: 7,037 ✭✭✭✭✭
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<< <i>And that's when the fight broke out.
The '33 Washington, '64 Frankie, '70 Ike, '64 Peace I get. But this? >>
My goal is to eventually complete a fantasy-date type set.
Since the Indian Head Cent mintages never skipped a year from 1859 to 1909 (and some 1858 patterns were also minted), "1910" seemed to be the logical date.
PS: No more than 200 will be produced.
<< <i>
<< <i>And that's when the fight broke out.
The '33 Washington, '64 Frankie, '70 Ike, '64 Peace I get. But this? >>
My goal is to eventually complete a fantasy-date type set.
Since the Indian Head Cent mintages never skipped a year from 1859 to 1909 (and some 1858 patterns were also minted), "1910" seemed to be the logical date.
PS: No more than 200 will be produced. >>
Well let us know when ya break out the new 2014 HTT's
Steve
<< <i>I like that idea.... a set of fantasy coins.... dang, you had to go and suggest that Dan.... curses.... Cheers, RickO >>
really.... that's going to be painful, and I am sorry I missed the first few (timing of having the money)
That is very nice looking and I look forward to your future releases. Have you ever hand tooled hobo nics as you have a good eye for detail?
Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
<< <i>too realistic that someone could potentially pass them off as real things? what say you all? >>
This is one of the never ending arguments.
<< <i>too realistic that someone could potentially pass them off as real things? what say you all? >>
They are real things. Real Indian Head cents, worth a penny anywhere.
Hoard the keys.
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Dan,
Is 200 the MAX Mintage on all the Fantasy Coins or does it vary?
Thanks, GrandAm
<< <i>Is 200 the MAX Mintage on all the Fantasy Coins or does it vary? >>
It varies. Most are higher (but not by much), some are lower.
Final mintages can sometimes be cut short due to a number of factors, including:
1) Die failure (the dies really take a pounding when over-striking, and they tend to squash, erode, and/or crack);
2) Difficulty in producing them (if the amount of work necessary to get the coins to come out right is excessive, I tend to make fewer of them);
3) Boredom (if I get bored making a coin, I will quit and move on to something else);
4) Low demand (if sales quantities start to drop off, I'll end the mintage so as to preserve the resale value).
<< <i>Ambro only 113 more to go for your prediction to come true. >>
Less than that
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
Edited to add that part of the reason I ordered was seeing that the max number of these that were to be made was to be 200. In looking at the website now, it seems that isn't going to be the case as there is a second die state of coins being sold and proof-like coins too. Oh well, would have been cool if my two ordered would have been 1% of the mintage though.
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
<< <i>I ordered a couple of these and just got them in the mail. They look pretty cool, but are a much brighter copper color than any IHC I've ever seen... even in the highest of grades. Of course, this one was made this month and doesn't have 100+ years of skin on it either so I'm sure that is a factor. Still pretty cool to have a D mint IHC
Edited to add that part of the reason I ordered was seeing that the max number of these that were to be made was to be 200. In looking at the website now, it seems that isn't going to be the case as there is a second die state of coins being sold and proof-like coins too. Oh well, would have been cool if my two ordered would have been 1% of the mintage though. >>
Yes, it will take some time to turn red in color. But I can already see that the first ones I struck a week ago are a little bit more red than the ones I struck this week.
The die surfaces eroded in an unsatisfactory way ("Die State A") and so I did some sanding on the dies to smooth them out in an attempt to better replicate the original look ("Die State B"). The proof-like version was an after-thought, but I like the way they came out. I didn't originally intend the two die states ("A" and "B"), but that is the way things often work out in the world of over-striking. After some consideration, 160 is the maximum limit I've decided on for each die finish type. Satin-finsh (Die State A) is already done at 156. Satin finish (Die State
why is the die eroding so fast, especially for a small copper cent? I thought the smaller and softer the planchet, the more die life you have, assuming the minting pressure is more or less the same.
Your observation please?
<< <i>Daniel,
why is the die eroding so fast, especially for a small copper cent? I thought the smaller and softer the planchet, the more die life you have, assuming the minting pressure is more or less the same.
Your observation please? >>
There are several issues involved:
1) The die hardening was not optimal. I'll use a higher temperature next time.
2) I wasn't getting quite the luster I wanted on the coins, so I wire-brushed the dies a bit. That accelerated the appearance of erosion.
3) The already-struck Indian-Head Cents are fairly hard from previous work-hardening, so they are more abrasive to the dies than virgin blanks would be.
The smaller and thinner the coin, the harder it is to move metal to the center before over-striking. To get the right luster, there has to be metal in the center which can "flow" out radially.
I have figured out a better way to do this for the "Die State B" coins.
I also noticed the golden color and wondered if the host coin was prepared in some fashion before striking?
I am fascinated by the quality of the design and the overall production quality of the piece itself which in my opinion is excellent.
<< <i>Daniel how do I determine which die state I received? Mine arrived on the 17th of this month.
I also noticed the golden color and wondered if the host coin was prepared in some fashion before striking?
I am fascinated by the quality of the design and the overall production quality of the piece itself which in my opinion is excellent. >>
If the insert doesn't say what die state it is, then it is "Die State A".
The coin prep involves some "trade secrets". But suffice to say that all the gunk and tarnish is cleaned off first.
But no metal is added or removed (other than the incidental amount from the cleaning).
Updating this post: I just received the 1910-D coin and it is spectacular. If I could get PCGS to grade it I am almost sure it would be PF70. That alone makes it worth the money.
OINK
Did you buy extra as an investment?
I only have one for my collection.
GrandAm
<< <i>I like that idea.... a set of fantasy coins.... dang, you had to go and suggest that Dan.... curses.... Cheers, RickO >>
nothing wrong with that one lol
I like them and think they came out well, but unfortunately the mintage of these ended up being over 400 coins.
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448