If you want a good investment, fork over the dough for an 1872 mint state example in RD. They never seem to lose demand. As a cool collector coin, a coin in Fine is nice to have and will have demand. This date is not as overpriced based as many key dates in the 20th century. That being said, two cent pieces will probably never be as popular as barber quarters.
Use the ebay rule. Take a look and see how many you can find of a "key date" on the bay....
1872 two cents will appear far less often than an 01-S, 13-S or 96-S quarters...at least I would think they would. Have not verified this, so don't hold me to it...
The 1872 2 cent is key date. Any key date is a good coin to purchase. Especially if you get a good price on it. 1872 PCGS F15 for $675 seems like a good price to me. I personally don't collect the series, but I would think you can't go wrong buying any key dates.
Winner of the "You Suck!" award March 17, 2010 by LanLord, doh, 123cents and Bear.
Also from all my reading on key date coins in the $500 to 600 dollar range is good to buy. There are more collectors out there willing to buy in that price range when it comes time to sell. The profit seems to go up better than if you were to buy a G-VG coin also. F-12 and F15 is a good grade to purchase as far as a key date goes in my opinion.
Winner of the "You Suck!" award March 17, 2010 by LanLord, doh, 123cents and Bear.
I was going to say, that was a good buy at $675. You won't be so upside down if you have to sell her on Ebay the next day. I try to either find coins that have some room to resale in them or pay up for the ones I really want.
Winner of the "You Suck!" award March 17, 2010 by LanLord, doh, 123cents and Bear.
I have also heard some dealers tell me to get the most expensive key dates you can afford. I guess you can find all the information in the World on what to do this way or that way. You just got to do what you want, and or feel is best.
Winner of the "You Suck!" award March 17, 2010 by LanLord, doh, 123cents and Bear.
A collector-grade key date in a popular, widely collected series is almost always a good buy.
However, a collector-grade key date in a series with a history of being relatively unpopular and not widely collected is probably not a good buy if you have to pay more than you would for a same-grade common date in the series.
Odd denomination coins fall into the latter group.
My recommendation would be to buy a high grade common date as a representative type coin and leave it at that.
I have owned several 1872's and a couple 1864 SM, and always did well with them. This may be a dead series, but those are not dead coins. In my experience, the 72's always did better, but I haven't researched the trends.
When it comes to buying Two Cent pieces, the key is in the grading. If the seller is calling that 1872 a "Fine-15" without even a trace of the "WE" in the motto, forget it. A Fine-15 should show most of the word although it will be weak. Over grading combined with a "cheap" price is one of the oldest numismatic shell games.
As for the series, I don't recall hearing a lot of the speculators saying much a key date or variety (Small Motto) Two Cent pieces. Perhaps the trouble is the coins are too scarce to get a decent supply of them so that you can promote them.
The 1872 is a tough coin especially in the circulated grades without problems. When I was collecting this series you could find Brown Mint State examples, and no problem circulated pieces were very tough. The Small Motto is a little easier, and even with the Red Book pictures, I cherry picked a couple pieces that were being offered as the Large Motto variety.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
<< <i>When it comes to buying Two Cent pieces, the key is in the grading. If the seller is calling that 1872 a "Fine-15" without even a trace of the "WE" in the motto, forget it. A Fine-15 should show most of the word although it will be weak. Over grading combined with a "cheap" price is one of the oldest numismatic shell games.
The OP is talking about a PCGS graded coin. I think the shell game is more likely what your going to find with dealers and their raw coins. I see it with several sellers on Ebay. Calling a VG coin Fine and so on. Stretching the truth a little in hopes of finding a buyer who can't grade. There is a fine line of personal opinion on grading, but it's very fine.
Winner of the "You Suck!" award March 17, 2010 by LanLord, doh, 123cents and Bear.
You'll avoid strong disappointments buying PCGS only (I'm sure our hosts thank you for your loyalty! ) but that doesn't mean all coins are created equal even if they're graded the same. If you shop by price only, you may get deals and you very likely will also find yourself on the short end of them too. You could conceivably find two '72 2¢ in the same PCGS grade, but let's say one is $75 more -- depending on a lot of factors -- discounting for eye appeal/lack thereof, the seller in question and their margins, you might be better off buying the pricier one. Whether you are buying to flip, or buying to hold long term (then someday sell) should also influence your decision.
What is your goal with your collection? Why are you buying just "stuff"? Seems to me that going from the King of Canadian coins to circulated "stuff" is a dramatic change.
Unless you're bored and just want to keep your fingers in the pie, why not set an ultimate goal and go for it?
I am not a millionaire my only very expensive coin is my 1921 50 cent from Canada (I have a mortgage and work full time during the week in my career)....I just want to add some semi-key U.S coins to my collection and at the same time to diversify my portfolio. I do not have money to buy 100k coins or even less million dollar coins. I just simply want to buy semi-key coins in F-12 if possible or a little higher. Wish I was a millionaire but that is not the case. I only own the 1921 50 cent as far as Canadian coins go. I have 3 coins in my collection right now that one the 1794 1/2 cent in PCGS VG-10 and my 1921 half dollar (U.S) in PCGS F-12. I am just starting to buy U.S coins. I don't collect Canadian coins anymore I sold a lot of high end key dates but that money went towards my King of Canadian coins.
I am only 31 years old so I have hopefully a lot of time to have some fun with U.S coins...I do not ever think about buying another Canadian coin I just wanted the 21 half and then move on to a bigger market.
<< <i>I would NEVER buy a coin that is not graded by PCGS. >>
I can understand why some people want their coins in PCGS holders (PCGS coins routinely trade for more than those slabbed by other companies), but not all great coins are located only in PCGS holders. There are plenty of nice coins out there in NGC holders as well, a good number of which are properly graded. You can just cross those coins to PCGS later if you want.
Above all though, being able to grade yourself is what's most important. No company is perfect when it comes to grading and it's always important to know what's nice for a grade, what's average, and what's low-end.
Some of us can only afford "stuff" -- and, one man's "stuff" is another man's treasure. Sometimes it is/can be both -- I treasure my single examples of a Lib $20 and StG $20, but do know that they are purely "stuff" in the pecking order of US gold.
Anyhoo....
There's nothing wrong with sticking to PCGS coins only, if that floats your boat; I take no offense and don't find it to be ignorant at all. It might simply be a case of brand loyalty, aesthetic preference, desire for a matched set of holders. Nothing wrong with marketing and enjoying the results of that marketing. For as long as I've been collecting, I've preferred the aesthetics of a PCGS holder to NGC. Might be a different story had NGC gone the way of all-black slabs rather than give it up shortly after starting, but hey, that's just me.
And, once you really get to know your stuff, if you so desire, an NGC coin, ANACS, raw, etc. piece can become a PCGS piece. The grade may shift in your favor or not, but it generally can be done!
Reading this , i would suggest you change your goal to a more popular coin series. You might be better looking for key date Morgans in those grades (like some of the rarer S and CC mint marks.)
Or other key dates that are far more popular, like a 77 indian head cent or 16D dime or 1885 nickle- these coins would be much easier to sell later on, and most collectors know about these enough to be interested, imo.
<< <i>Reading this , i would suggest you change your goal to a more popular coin series. You might be better looking for key date Morgans in those grades (like some of the rarer S and CC mint marks.)
Or other key dates that are far more popular, like a 77 indian head cent or 16D dime or 1885 nickle- these coins would be much easier to sell later on, and most collectors know about these enough to be interested, imo. >>
I collect 2 centers.
I purchased this one about 4 years ago, it would cost me at least a 25% premium to replace it today.
If you aren't that well versed in us coinage that's cool, none of us were until we got started. I recommend collecting some books, they are cheaper and they may stir an interest in something that you may have missed. Don't worry about markets gain an education in a series in that interests you, and you will find yourself ahead. Also ignore most that post here... They will always have opinions!
WTB... errors, New Orleans gold, and circulated 20th key date coins!
Personally I would stay away from the series altogether....it simply is not popular and probably never will be.
I think there are values in the following: PF-64 Indians PF-65 and higher Mercuries PF-65 and higher Walkers MS-63 and higher 1928 Peace dollars MS-63 and higher Trade dollars PF-65 Liberty nickels XF Seated dollars MS gold dollars MS Liberty $5
The coins mentioned above are much more liquid and prices (in my opinion) are at bargain levels.
I've been an avid collector 2c pieces for about 20 years and values have remained strong over that period, even for common dates in choice condition. Because it's s smaller set, it seems to attract collector interest similar to the FE series. It is also the first US coin to bear the motto In God We Trust.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
I also find it to be a interesting series I will be buying the 1864 small motto and the 1872 as my 2 next purchases...I am looking for both in PCGS F-12.
I also find it to be a interesting series I will be buying the 1864 small motto and the 1872 as my 2 next purchases...I am looking for both in PCGS F-12. >>
You can't go wrong with those dates--I would start with those key dates and add a really nice choice BU 1864 LM 2c piece, which you can probably acquire for less than $200. The 1864s and 1865s are the most plentiful dates. Though the PCGS price guide does not really acknowledge it, there is a definite premium for BU 2c pieces from 1866 and 1867. The 1871 is a semi-key date for the series, as popularity for this denomination had waned considerably by that time.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
Comments
Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
Use the ebay rule. Take a look and see how many you can find of a "key date" on the bay....
1872 two cents will appear far less often than an 01-S, 13-S or 96-S quarters...at least I would think they would. Have not verified this, so don't hold me to it...
I can't speak to the small motto...
John
siliconvalleycoins.com
Do you mean the 1872 in PCGS F-15 or the 1864 small motto?
<< <i>I mean 750$ not 675$....my mistake. >>
I was going to say, that was a good buy at $675. You won't be so upside down if you have to sell her on Ebay the next day. I try to either find coins that have some room to resale in them or pay up for the ones I really want.
However, a collector-grade key date in a series with a history of being relatively unpopular and not widely collected is probably not a good buy if you have to pay more than you would for a same-grade common date in the series.
Odd denomination coins fall into the latter group.
My recommendation would be to buy a high grade common date as a representative type coin and leave it at that.
I guess I will look for a large cent semi-key date instead for now. I will wait and see if I can find a better deal on the 1872.
<< <i>I guess these coins would be 50/50. Is a 1872 2 cent in PCGS F-15 a good buy at 675$ or do you guys have another dealer who can do better? >>
You can always find one cheaper, somewhere, but I doubt you will like the way it looks.
Coin Rarities Online
As for the series, I don't recall hearing a lot of the speculators saying much a key date or variety (Small Motto) Two Cent pieces. Perhaps the trouble is the coins are too scarce to get a decent supply of them so that you can promote them.
The 1872 is a tough coin especially in the circulated grades without problems. When I was collecting this series you could find Brown Mint State examples, and no problem circulated pieces were very tough. The Small Motto is a little easier, and even with the Red Book pictures, I cherry picked a couple pieces that were being offered as the Large Motto variety.
<< <i>When it comes to buying Two Cent pieces, the key is in the grading. If the seller is calling that 1872 a "Fine-15" without even a trace of the "WE" in the motto, forget it. A Fine-15 should show most of the word although it will be weak. Over grading combined with a "cheap" price is one of the oldest numismatic shell games.
The OP is talking about a PCGS graded coin. I think the shell game is more likely what your going to find with dealers and their raw coins. I see it with several sellers on Ebay. Calling a VG coin Fine and so on. Stretching the truth a little in hopes of finding a buyer who can't grade. There is a fine line of personal opinion on grading, but it's very fine.
Unless you're bored and just want to keep your fingers in the pie, why not set an ultimate goal and go for it?
I am not a millionaire my only very expensive coin is my 1921 50 cent from Canada (I have a mortgage and work full time during the week in my career)....I just want to add some semi-key U.S coins to my collection and at the same time to diversify my portfolio. I do not have money to buy 100k coins or even less million dollar coins. I just simply want to buy semi-key coins in F-12 if possible or a little higher. Wish I was a millionaire but that is not the case. I only own the 1921 50 cent as far as Canadian coins go. I have 3 coins in my collection right now that one the 1794 1/2 cent in PCGS VG-10 and my 1921 half dollar (U.S) in PCGS F-12. I am just starting to buy U.S coins. I don't collect Canadian coins anymore I sold a lot of high end key dates but that money went towards my King of Canadian coins.
I am only 31 years old so I have hopefully a lot of time to have some fun with U.S coins...I do not ever think about buying another Canadian coin I just wanted the 21 half and then move on to a bigger market.
<< <i>I would NEVER buy a coin that is not graded by PCGS. >>
I'm sorry, but that is such an ignorant statement.
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Did not mean anything bad... that is just what I prefer!! I forgot that this was a sensitive issue.
<< <i>I would NEVER buy a coin that is not graded by PCGS. >>
I can understand why some people want their coins in PCGS holders (PCGS coins routinely trade for more than those slabbed by other companies), but not all great coins are located only in PCGS holders. There are plenty of nice coins out there in NGC holders as well, a good number of which are properly graded. You can just cross those coins to PCGS later if you want.
Above all though, being able to grade yourself is what's most important. No company is perfect when it comes to grading and it's always important to know what's nice for a grade, what's average, and what's low-end.
Anyhoo....
There's nothing wrong with sticking to PCGS coins only, if that floats your boat; I take no offense and don't find it to be ignorant at all. It might simply be a case of brand loyalty, aesthetic preference, desire for a matched set of holders. Nothing wrong with marketing and enjoying the results of that marketing. For as long as I've been collecting, I've preferred the aesthetics of a PCGS holder to NGC. Might be a different story had NGC gone the way of all-black slabs rather than give it up shortly after starting, but hey, that's just me.
And, once you really get to know your stuff, if you so desire, an NGC coin, ANACS, raw, etc. piece can become a PCGS piece. The grade may shift in your favor or not, but it generally can be done!
Good luck in whatever you enjoy collecting.
You might be better looking for key date Morgans in those grades (like some of
the rarer S and CC mint marks.)
Or other key dates that are far more popular, like a 77 indian head cent or 16D dime
or 1885 nickle- these coins would be much easier to sell later on, and most collectors
know about these enough to be interested, imo.
Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
Unattractive design (Shield).
Short series.
<< <i>Reading this , i would suggest you change your goal to a more popular coin series.
You might be better looking for key date Morgans in those grades (like some of
the rarer S and CC mint marks.)
Or other key dates that are far more popular, like a 77 indian head cent or 16D dime
or 1885 nickle- these coins would be much easier to sell later on, and most collectors
know about these enough to be interested, imo. >>
I collect 2 centers.
I purchased this one about 4 years ago, it would cost me at least a 25% premium to replace it today.
If you aren't that well versed in us coinage that's cool, none of us were until we got started. I recommend collecting some books, they are cheaper and they may stir an interest in something that you may have missed. Don't worry about markets gain an education in a series in that interests you, and you will find yourself ahead. Also ignore most that post here... They will always have opinions!
Sorry but when I spend money I like to do it for 50/50 or fun/investment....I just think it is better that way for ME.
<< <i>I would NEVER buy a coin that is not graded by PCGS. >>
Sorry but buying Canadian graded coins only from PCGS does have its problems.
PCGS and ICCS have totally different grading philosophies when it comes to Canadian coins.
As a general rule, Canadian coins realize the highest prices grade for grade when it has an ICCS grade.
For US coins, absolutely, PCGS graded coins is the way to go.
"“Those who sacrifice liberty for security/safety deserve neither.“(Benjamin Franklin)
"I only golf on days that end in 'Y'" (DE59)
It's good to see we here are not the only ones who break promises to ourselves in this regard!
peacockcoins
Looks like a good coin to buy from my view.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
Wow very very nice looking coin!!!
I think there are values in the following:
PF-64 Indians
PF-65 and higher Mercuries
PF-65 and higher Walkers
MS-63 and higher 1928 Peace dollars
MS-63 and higher Trade dollars
PF-65 Liberty nickels
XF Seated dollars
MS gold dollars
MS Liberty $5
The coins mentioned above are much more liquid and prices (in my opinion) are at bargain levels.
All opinions are appreciated they get me thinking on my options!!!
<< <i>jimbux61
All opinions are appreciated they get me thinking on my options!!! >>
BTW, these are what I am accumulating. I am a long-time collector with an eye towards coins that I think are undervalued and will appreciate.
If I had the juice I would be buying Gobrecht dollars and proof Flying Eagle cents...and they are on my RADAR.
Do you have a few extra 1872's?
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
<< <i>jimbux61
Do you have a few extra 1872's? >>
No the only 2-centers I have are a couple 1864 LM Uncs, and a 1865 AU I bought back in the 1970's.
And they are probably worth less than what I paid for them back in the 1970's -- so another reason for my opinion on the series.
I also find it to be a interesting series I will be buying the 1864 small motto and the 1872 as my 2 next purchases...I am looking for both in PCGS F-12.
<< <i>grote15
I also find it to be a interesting series I will be buying the 1864 small motto and the 1872 as my 2 next purchases...I am looking for both in PCGS F-12. >>
You can't go wrong with those dates--I would start with those key dates and add a really nice choice BU 1864 LM 2c piece, which you can probably acquire for less than $200.
The 1864s and 1865s are the most plentiful dates. Though the PCGS price guide does not really acknowledge it, there is a definite premium for BU 2c pieces from 1866 and 1867.
The 1871 is a semi-key date for the series, as popularity for this denomination had waned considerably by that time.
Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.