Okay, TYPE set build, key dates or MS examples

TexasNationals

This is not a US type set, but close, a N. America set. Now should I build the set in key dates or MS/BU? Ether is doable in my budget, the key will cost more, but most keys I can get in VF plus so no real culls. SO VF Key dates or MS/ BU common date/MM examples? I did my first purchase tonight at a shop and for around $300 I got a decent start, but a mixture of keys in F/VF and UNC/ Gem coins. What would you do? I am leaning towards keys, but I always used my type sets to show off the differentiation and denomination of this countries coinage?

What say you?

J

BBN

I don't know. Just my opinion, but if you just want to build a nice example of past coinage I say MS widgets. If you want a sweet set of ones that don't come along every day then go for keys.

ricko

I would go with the keys in the situation you describe, can always do the others at a later date. Keys become more difficult with time. Cheers, RickO

ambro51

first year of issue, MS.

09sVDB

My goal a few years ago was to trying to build a set in NGC or PCGS AU58. I already had some of the keys but it soon became next to impossible to find nice original coins. Now I just buy the classic type in the nicest grade I can afford and the commons in MS67

TwoSides2aCoin

One coin at a time and I like them looking "similar". Keys would probably be one album and MS the other, if my budget allowed. Since there is the eye appeal factor , uniformity would be paramount during the building of either.

mozin

I think it best to buy all the coins in about the same grade, the highest grade you can afford. Keys might be a better investment, but they are certainly not so pretty to look at in lower grades.

LindeDad

Long term I would go with the keys always seems to be the market for them.
And who's to say you can't throw in a few MS keys not all of them are impossible.

TomB

Why not mix it up? In this way if you find the perfect Ch VF of that key to a series you can buy it while in the next month or two you might find an exquisite MS example of another type to incorporate. In this way you have purchased superb coins in both series.

ColonialCoinUnion

I personally prefer a type set in the best condition possible, so I would choose the more common issues in MS. Of course, whatever you personally prefer is the way to go.

MidLifeCrisis

Save your money...go very slow...focus on the keys...don't settle for a VF key if you can save and get a nicer example; but don't buy a coin just because it's in a higher grade holder if you can get a VF that's great for the grade.

In other words, don't restrict yourself, don't lose patience, and don't compromise.

messydesk

Type set to me means the best example of the type you can find. This not only means BU, but also one that's sharply defined. These would typically be early in the series when the master hub is still optimally defined. This may or may not be the first year of issue, as there may be tweaking of the hub to improve the design over the first few years. For example, Lincoln cents of 1915-16 are probably the best wheaties for a type set (seems 1916s are most commonly mistaken for MPLs), while 1958 is probably the worst. Likewise, Mercury dimes of 1918, good, 1940-45, bad.

HoledandCreative

Since budget permits, do both. Make it a challenge, go for a consistent grade throughout, maybe VF30 or XF45.

I prefer the key route for my type set. I think looking at a holed AUish 14-D Cent is more interesting than looking at a holed BU 56-D.

Jeffrey1

Depends on one's budget and goals (i.e., are you a collector/investor or an investor/collector). If your budget is like mine, maybe $100/month, I would go for the nicest examples in common dates. If you are more of an investor/collector, with a larger budget, I would go for the keys in better grades than what I can afford. I agree that uniformity of appearance is good, but not necessarily desirable if you are collecting keys in XF, but a 20th century set will also have moderns, and who wants to collect these in highly circulated grades? I tend to have a mix of both, like Walkers (1938-D VF30, 1943 MS66), Buffalos with a couple keys in VF (1926-S, 1937-D 3-legs), and a MS65 common date, etc., but most of my modern stuff is MS66-68. In addition to these slabbed coins (for the SDB), I also keep a raw type album for home to look at.

BillJones

Are you sure you can do a complete type set?

The 1796 Quarter will cost you at least $10,000 in Good. The 1796-7 half dollar is at least $30,000 in Good. A decent Chain cent with smooth surfaces will run you $10,000 + if you are lucky enough to find it.

To me a type set is the highest grade you can afford. I think that a lot of key dates are way over priced and sometimes over graded in the holder because too many collectors, investers and speculators concentrate on them.

BU and Proof coins are really attrative. VF coins can be attractive, but not as nice as the Choice and Gem quarter mint material.

It took me over 40 years to complete a type set. Among that group are 1794 and 1795 large cents in Mint State. Yes, they are separate types when you really look at them. Those two large cents are a lot more interesting and a good deal rarer than a fairly modern key date coin. Getting bogged down buying an 1877 Indian or a 1916-D Mercury dime from a "nothing" type coin that can be easily filled with a Choice to Gem Unc. or Proof for several hundred dollars makes not sense to me. But that's just me.

If I had unlimited funds I'd put BU Key date type coins in a set, but I don't. There are enough keys in the set with Gobrecht Dollars and all of the early coins to take care of your rarity fix.

ldhair

I built the set with keys as my first choice and first year of issue second. Next I went for a nice MS coin.
At the end, the keys just didn't match the look of the set so many were replaced with MS coins.
After that I had to do a proof set as well. With that almost finished, I'm lost as to what is next.

Jeffrey1

"Are you sure you can do a complete type set?" - In my case, no. Too many coins out of my range, so I am working primarily on 20th Century (no gold), which is mostly within my range in MS.

"I built the set with keys as my first choice and first year of issue second. Next I went for a nice MS coin. At the end, the keys just didn't match the look of the set so many were replaced with MS coins." - That's what I'm finding with my type set. For uniform look I'm adding common dates in MS64-66. I keep my VF keys in my collection since they have appreciated signifcantly since I bought them and I don't want to have to pay the taxes on capital gains yet.

CarlWohlforth

I totally want the very best looking example of each type so would want bright, lustrous, lightly toned (at most) mint state coins. This way the differences between types are glaringly obvious. I collect type so I can display the incredible diversity in designs. Almost everybody I show my coins to don't care about the exact date and care even less about mint marks.

Catbert

Collect by eye appeal, everything else is secondary (IMHO).

mingot

Personally, I would rather own the good looking coins.

I'd probably rather sell the keys, though.

OldEastside

A North America Set is a cool Idea, why not a little of both?
Mexico has a lot of low mintage Commems from the 50's
and proof Onza's from the 80's and 90's, I myself like the
Crowns of the America's, from Canada to Chile and everything
in between.

Steve