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A general grading question
Morganmanic
Posts: 1,343
Hello Everyone
Since I am not an expert in the grading arena I was wondering how you all would grade a Lincoln penny given these parameters.
Obverse grades a F-12 and reverse grades VG-8. The difference could even be greater.
Would the overall coin grade a VG-8?
Ethically, I can not grade any higher than VG-8 but it seems a shame when the other side is a F-12 or better.
A little guidance and education would be appreciated.
Thanks
Cliff
Since I am not an expert in the grading arena I was wondering how you all would grade a Lincoln penny given these parameters.
Obverse grades a F-12 and reverse grades VG-8. The difference could even be greater.
Would the overall coin grade a VG-8?
Ethically, I can not grade any higher than VG-8 but it seems a shame when the other side is a F-12 or better.
A little guidance and education would be appreciated.
Thanks
Cliff
RACC
I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the blanket of the very freedom I provide, then question the manner in which I provide it. I prefer you said thank you, and went on your way, Otherwise, I suggest you pick up a weapon, and stand to post. Either way, I don't give a damn what you think you are entitled to!
I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the blanket of the very freedom I provide, then question the manner in which I provide it. I prefer you said thank you, and went on your way, Otherwise, I suggest you pick up a weapon, and stand to post. Either way, I don't give a damn what you think you are entitled to!
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Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
This would be where the high points on the design are, therefore this side is given more weight in grading. There are a few exceptions where it was done in reverse to this, I think mercury dimes are one case.
Krueger
<< <i>Correct me if I am wrong. Are not the obverses on US coins struck with the hammer die imparting a higher relief then the reverse anvil die.
This would be where the high points on the design are, therefore this side is given more weight in grading. There are a few exceptions where it was done in reverse to this, I think mercury dimes are one case.
Krueger >>
The obverse is generally the anvil, not the hammer. But I don't get how either yields a higher relief.
Lance.
It might be one that had a really weak reverse die so what you see is not wear although on a circ it might get graded as if it was wear. The 60-40 sounds about right.
I've had older Lincolns with no wheat lines still get in the low MS grades.
Typically, if those coins are examined closer, some of it is (probably) striking annomlies
It seems then the grades get further split down (intermediates of intermediates), where a 20/12 becomes a 15, a 12/8 a 10, and similar
Based on your example, if the coin is really split that way, I might be tempted to either state the split grades, or call it a "VG 10, with claims to a full Fine but a weak reverse"
my humble opinion
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
That said, just describe it accurately and see if a "live one" is willing to pay more than a VG8 price.
<< <i>A coin is no better than its weakest side. There is no reason to be a generous grader when buying. >>
So, you would pay the same for an AU/XF coin as a XF/XF coin? Good luck with that---the marketplace doesn't see it that way.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
<< <i>Cliff, what's the date and mint on that one, we may be able to be more specific. >>
Most of the difficult coins for me are the Lincoln pennies from 1929 to 1909. I have a lot of really nice obverse coins some in the EF range but the reverse often has only half the wheat lines or even if the wheat lines are separated they are so flat that they look merged together. I tend to agree 291fifth and the others that state essentially the coin is graded to its weakest attribute. I will post a few pictures after I get the kids of to school.
Cliff
I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the blanket of the very freedom I provide, then question the manner in which I provide it. I prefer you said thank you, and went on your way, Otherwise, I suggest you pick up a weapon, and stand to post. Either way, I don't give a damn what you think you are entitled to!
The reason why I cite the date is that there are a number of date and mint mark combinations from the 1920s that were poorly struck from "tired dies." In those cases some allowances can be made if the surfaces appear to be the higher the grade.
I know it's against the current rules, but the old ANACS (when it was owned by the ANA) practice showing split grades does have validity in some cases.
<< <i>Generally, the obverse is more important, grading-wise, than the reverse. However, if you will be selling the coin in question, why not state your honest opinion (of the split grade) as you have, here? >>