SLQ Type 2 strike question

JoeLewis

When looking for a SLQ Type 2 as a type coin, are there certain dates that are more likely to have FH AND full rivets around the shield?

I'm looking at a ton of 64FH, 65FH, and 66FH with incomplete shield striking. I'd really like to get as complete of a strike as possible, and the FH designation certainly does not guarantee that. I've even looked at two MS67FH with soft striking in multiple places on the obverse!

Any tips?

Thanks.

JoeLewis

anyone?

commoncents05

I would PM Broadstruck, he tracks this kind of thing.

-Paul

Broadstruck

Look for 1917-P and 1919-P's as both dates come fully struck everywhere.

A 1919-P might be easier to locate.

Broadstruck

I just found this in less then a minute...

Broadstruck

Here's a 1919 MS64FH that I've owned twice...

MFH

<< <i>Here's a 1919 MS64FH that I've owned twice...

>>

..............and I bet would like to own again !!

Stunning coin !!

jsf

I found that I could make do with this as my Type 2 representative, I'm no expert on the series, obviously!

Broadstruck

If the OP is looking for full shield details most of the Philly's can be found that way with some patience... Later dates such as 1920 and 1924 to 1928 also come to mind.

1921 and 1923 Philly's are also available fully struck but are very expensive for a type example in FH.

Sylvestius

They're all beauties, every one of 'em! It's ironic, I was looking around earlier for some examples of full shield variety to check a purchase of mine against to see if it would qualify, but I couldn't find any. A few moments ago I thought I'd check in here after nearly a year absence and low and behold a thread full!

What do you think of the attached 1917P, full shield, or a little too soft?

JoeLewis

<< <i>They're all beauties, every one of 'em! It's ironic, I was looking around earlier for some examples of full shield variety to check a purchase of mine against to see if it would qualify, but I couldn't find any. A few moments ago I thought I'd check in here after nearly a year absence and low and behold a thread full!

What do you think of the attached 1917P, full shield, or a little too soft? >>






Not bad. All the rivets are there (some a little soft.) Plus there's some nice detail on the thingy in the middle of the shield!

JoeLewis

Something I'm also struggling with. Can I be happy with coin that has something like 90% head detail and fully struck everywhere else? It wouldn't have the FH designation, but the price could be substantially lower!

Broadstruck

<< <i>They're all beauties, every one of 'em! It's ironic, I was looking around earlier for some examples of full shield variety to check a purchase of mine against to see if it would qualify, but I couldn't find any. A few moments ago I thought I'd check in here after nearly a year absence and low and behold a thread full!

What do you think of the attached 1917P, full shield, or a little too soft? >>





That's actually a really great strike!

Proofs where struck at the mint with care for collectors...

Unfortunately SLQ are just available as business strikes pumped out by the millions to serve as coinage for circulation.

Broadstruck

Here's a FH 1917-P TY II that is in a MS62 holder...

The lower rivets on the shield are never as fully struck as the upper.

Sylvestius

Ah excellent, i'm on the right lines then!

Thanks guys for the tips and hints, i'm still learning about these coins as I go along, but i'm getting there, bit by bit.

Sylvestius

<< <i>Here's a FH 1917-P TY II that is in a MS62 holder...

The lower rivets on the shield are never as fully struck as the upper.

>>



What a beaut! That's one sweet coin, a very crisp strike.

BillJones

The advice about the 1917-P and 1919-P quarters is good. And yes "FULL HEAD" does not mean full strike. The areas you memtion are weak on most all pieces including those that get the "full head" designation.

There are some dates that simply do not exist with a full strike or are so rare that you will spend a lifetime trying to buy them.

I take it by "Type II" that you mean the coins from the 1917 type 2 quarters to 1924. The "Type III" were issued from 1925 to 1930. Some collectors lump these two types together because the main difference between the two is in the area of the date. If you are lumping to two together, 1930 might be a good date for you.

Here is the Type II quarter from my type set. It is an MS-65, Full Head.

Broadstruck

<< <i>Ah excellent, i'm on the right lines then!

Thanks guys for the tips and hints, i'm still learning about these coins as I go along, but i'm getting there, bit by bit. >>



This PDF article is the best I've ever read on the Series via the web... it's worthy printing!

Standing Liberty Quarters A discussion of "full head" vs. "full shield"

Sylvestius

Ah yes I'd already figured out that Full Head was in no way indicative of full strike, I've got a few FH Type IIIs and not one of them has Full Shield details, all Philly Mint which is reputed to be the better quality producer. So I imagine S and D mints are virtually none existant. Particularly 1927-S and the 1918 overdate?

Sylvestius

<< <i>

<< <i>Ah excellent, i'm on the right lines then!

Thanks guys for the tips and hints, i'm still learning about these coins as I go along, but i'm getting there, bit by bit. >>



This PDF article is the best I've ever read on the Series via the web... it's worthy printing!

Standing Liberty Quarters A discussion of "full head" vs. "full shield" >>




Ha! That's what I stumbled upon this morning, definately very informative.

JoeLewis

<< <i>

<< <i>Ah excellent, i'm on the right lines then!

Thanks guys for the tips and hints, i'm still learning about these coins as I go along, but i'm getting there, bit by bit. >>



This PDF article is the best I've ever read on the Series via the web... it's worthy printing!

Standing Liberty Quarters A discussion of "full head" vs. "full shield" >>



Man, thanks. That's the kind of information that a type collector REALLY needs to know before picking out the SLQ examples!

Broadstruck

<< <i>Ah yes I'd already figured out that Full Head was in no way indicative of full strike, I've got a few FH Type IIIs and not one of them has Full Shield details, all Philly Mint which is reputed to be the better quality producer. So I imagine S and D mints are virtually none existant. Particularly 1927-S and the 1918 overdate? >>



I haven't seen a fully struck 27-S or 18/7-S in FH.

Elcontador

If you want a fully struck Type II SLQ, your best best are the 17 - 24 P from the Philadelphia mint only. I have seen many of these coins with full shields, rivulets, full head, etc. etc. However, they're usually in MS 65 or MS 66, and are expensive. As Broadstruck indicated, the 17P and 19P seem to be the most available (and least expensive). Forget about finding anything from the branch mints in this category.

The type coin of the Type II is the 30 P. It is readily available, but I have yet to find one with a full shield and full rivulets.

BillJones

Here is my Type III quarter, a 1929. It is close to full strike, but not quite. This one is also an MS-65, FH.

lkeigwin

I recall QDB saying recently that he has never seen a fully struck type II 1917 SLQ, and in his opinion none exists.
Lance.

JoeLewis

Which coin do you like better as a type coin and why? One of these coins costs twice as much as the other.

Broadstruck

<< <i>Which coin do you like better as a type coin and why? One of these coins costs twice as much as the other >>



The head on the 30 is incomplete below the ear hole as the return portion is missing, much like many near FH 28-S's.

I also like the whole leg and thigh better on 19.

Here's a non FH AU58 28-S as an example...

JoeLewis

Thanks Broadstruck.

The eagle's breast has more detail on the 19, but that causes the "shield within the shield" to have less detail. I guess there will always be a compromise with striking.

JoeLewis

I've noticed that I tend to be MUCH more sensitive to striking than to the difference between a 64 and a 65 (for example.) Both coins I posted are PCGS 64, but of course the 19 is FH and the 30 is not.

rld14

<< <i>

<< <i>Which coin do you like better as a type coin and why? One of these coins costs twice as much as the other >>



The head on the 30 is incomplete below the ear hole as the return portion is missing, much like many near FH 28-S's.

I also like the whole leg and thigh better on 19.

Here's a non FH AU58 28-S as an example...

>>



That's about as well struck, overall, as that coin exists. I don't recall seeing a FULLY struck 28-S, and I own a couple

Broadstruck

<< <i>That's about as well struck, overall, as that coin exists. I don't recall seeing a FULLY struck 28-S, and I own a couple >>



rld14, Did you buy that one?

Broadstruck

<< <i>Thanks Broadstruck.

The eagle's breast has more detail on the 19, but that causes the "shield within the shield" to have less detail. I guess there will always be a compromise with striking. >>



1930's even if well struck on all the obverse strike details tend not to have much going for them on the reverse breast feathers.

Broadstruck

<< <i>I've noticed that I tend to be MUCH more sensitive to striking than to the difference between a 64 and a 65 (for example.) Both coins I posted are PCGS 64, but of course the 19 is FH and the 30 is not. >>



I'm shocked that the 30 wasn't designated as a FH as many like it are.

koynekwest

The same comments can be made for the "Full Band" Mercury dimes and other such issues where one small detail is cited while ignoring other parts of the coin.

MFH

Some very nice SLQ's being shown here !

The best Type 2 dates are as discussed:

1) 1919- Phila issue

2) 1924- Phila issue

One of these days - my fledgling set will get
imaged. I'm not just going for FH's - but as
close as possible to FH as possible but without
the premiums.

In the mean time - here is one the best struck Type 3's
I have ever owned:

1928-D - PCGS MS 66 FH