When I read the word "tooled", my mind automatically went to the sort of tooling that is done to touch up details like Liberty's hair (which is usually fairly obvious). I didn't even think about the more common "tooling to remove some crud" sense of the word.
<< <i>The hair looks mighty sharp, but no, I don't see it either.
It was a very good job, I guess.
Nice looking coin, regardless.
But where's the circular die break? I can't recall seeing a high grade 1820 without the stars joined by that circular break. >>
Non "horde" coins are out there without the die breaks. Looks like its partially there from 10-2 oclock. Without seeing it in person cant tell what they see, but its extremely well struck. Almost too well struck especially in the ear/eyes area. Looks like a proof in the central obverse region with typical strike characteristics in the fields/stars area. Coin looks tremendous though. I'd probably have someone take a very close look at it. Maybe a couple of old timer eac members since I see you're a member. Sometimes they have semilocal meetings. How bout the third side? Any signs of a repaired rim bruise? Also the date needs a close look. The dates not altered as this coins a 1820 but it looks a lil off. Cant quite put my finger on it, maybe some tooling there. Cant tell without seeing it in person and even then I'm not the god of large cents by a mile. My eyes are more experienced in other series, and are a little bit noobish with large cent characteristics.
Looks like it is an 1820 N-13. Notice anything missing???
Apparently, the die breaks have been tooled away. My first thought was that the fields were tooled and smoothed down, perhaps to minimize some corrosion. The obverse color does not match the reverse color, which looks more original.
Looking at my copy of The Cent Book, by Wright, it looks to be the 1820 N-13, less the die breaks...
The Tree of Liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. -Thomas Jefferson
<< <i>Looks like it is an 1820 N-13. Notice anything missing???
Apparently, the die breaks have been tooled away. My first thought was that the fields were tooled and smoothed down, perhaps to minimize some corrosion. The obverse color does not match the reverse color, which looks more original.
Looking at my copy of The Cent Book, by Wright, it looks to be the 1820 N-13, less the die breaks... >>
<< <i>Looks like it is an 1820 N-13. Notice anything missing???
Apparently, the die breaks have been tooled away. My first thought was that the fields were tooled and smoothed down, perhaps to minimize some corrosion. The obverse color does not match the reverse color, which looks more original.
Looking at my copy of The Cent Book, by Wright, it looks to be the 1820 N-13, less the die breaks... >>
Nice catch. Didn't think about that! Why would someone do that,though?
I don't see anything wrong. I agree that the fields between the stars on the upper half of the obv look odd, I thought mild toning but maybe that is it? I see stars savoyspecial is talking about, there are only a couple stars with dents, could that be tooling? The only other thing I could think of (I don't know this series at all) would maybe be the reverse denticles between 6:00 and 10:00. A few of them look a little odd, but that is a guess.
Sure looks good to me. Magnification is the only way I can see solving this one. The tooling is very good, but why would anyone mess with this coin? It's a beut.
That coins looks amazingly well struck... it could be (as others have said) that the die breaks appear to have been tooled away.
Honestly though, I don't have an example any where near that quaility to compare
Freaking GREAT looking coin either way though!
Edited to add: silly question but, could it possibly be a VERY early strike, before the die crack became more prevalent? Is that possible? Could it be the first strike using the die that someone put aside?
I see a running depression line between the top stars, that would be the tooling, The color blends just look "off" on the reverse, so I guess it was tooled, smoothed and recolored.
......I think great 'moneymaker' for the home team would be a short one paragraph note from the finalizer on exactly what the conclusion on a problem coin was. charge for it...it would be worth it.
Would be my pick for how I'd best like to see PCGS handle "problem" coins. But the current "genuine" holder is at least a big improvement over the bodybag, where one ended up with nothing for the money. At least now you get authentication and a plastic slab for your fees.
<< <i>Why cant PCGS just tell you exactly what is wrong with the coin? If its tooled where its tooled. What is so difficult about this? >>
I'm guessing for every problem free coin they get, they get 2 or 3 problem coins. I think it would greatly bog down the system if they had to explain what the exact problem was with each problem coin. My guess is, it would double the time it takes to get coins through the system.
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If someone removed the die breaks, it could have been in the "good old days" when people wouldn't buy "problem" coins. Think of how many thousands, or hundreds of thousands of coin polishing cloths were sold before many, err some of us were born.
Here is an 1818 large cent for comparison. This one is graded MS-63, brown.
I think that the 1920 large cent was "tooled" in fields. It appears to me that the fields had spots or perhaps some roughness removed. The luster looks great on the reverse, but the obverse has a dull, flat look.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
According to John Wright all known examples of this variety, including a single Proof, have the die break through the date and all of the stars. I think that those who have pointed that this feature is mosly missing on this piece are correct.
Wright also notes that the coin is usually well struck, so I don't think that the sharp hair detail is a problem. Usually when the hair has been messed with, it's pretty obvious.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
Maybe the curls at the back of the neck, and the curls above 2 in the date?
Just a guess.
I used to be somebody, now I'm just a coin collector. Recipient of the coveted "You Suck" award, April 2009 for cherrypicking a 1833 CBHD LM-5, and April 2022 for a 1835 LM-12, and again in Aug 2012 for picking off a 1952 FS-902.
I find this thread most interesting and a nice break from the whining which seems to have become prevalent on the board. This is why I came to this site, thanks all for your input!!
Comments
It was a very good job, I guess.
Nice looking coin, regardless.
But where's the circular die break? I can't recall seeing a high grade 1820 without the stars joined by that circular break.
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When I read the word "tooled", my mind automatically went to the sort of tooling that is done to touch up details like Liberty's hair (which is usually fairly obvious). I didn't even think about the more common "tooling to remove some crud" sense of the word.
<< <i>The hair looks mighty sharp, but no, I don't see it either.
It was a very good job, I guess.
Nice looking coin, regardless.
But where's the circular die break? I can't recall seeing a high grade 1820 without the stars joined by that circular break. >>
Non "horde" coins are out there without the die breaks. Looks like its partially there from 10-2 oclock. Without seeing it in person cant tell what they see, but its extremely well struck. Almost too well struck especially in the ear/eyes area. Looks like a proof in the central obverse region with typical strike characteristics in the fields/stars area.
Coin looks tremendous though. I'd probably have someone take a very close look at it. Maybe a couple of old timer eac members since I see you're a member. Sometimes they have semilocal meetings. How bout the third side? Any signs of a repaired rim bruise? Also the date needs a close look. The dates not altered as this coins a 1820 but it looks a lil off. Cant quite put my finger on it, maybe some tooling there. Cant tell without seeing it in person and even then I'm not the god of large cents by a mile. My eyes are more experienced in other series, and are a little bit noobish with large cent characteristics.
Apparently, the die breaks have been tooled away. My first thought was that the fields were tooled and smoothed down, perhaps to minimize some corrosion. The obverse color does not match the reverse color, which looks more original.
Looking at my copy of The Cent Book, by Wright, it looks to be the 1820 N-13, less the die breaks...
<< <i>Almost too well struck especially in the ear/eyes area >>
I suppose that is what subconsciously caught my eye, too.
<< <i>Looks like it is an 1820 N-13. Notice anything missing???
Apparently, the die breaks have been tooled away. My first thought was that the fields were tooled and smoothed down, perhaps to minimize some corrosion. The obverse color does not match the reverse color, which looks more original.
Looking at my copy of The Cent Book, by Wright, it looks to be the 1820 N-13, less the die breaks... >>
Nice research.
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<< <i>the fields have been smoothed. >>
The obv fields don't look right to me...
<< <i>Looks like it is an 1820 N-13. Notice anything missing???
Apparently, the die breaks have been tooled away. My first thought was that the fields were tooled and smoothed down, perhaps to minimize some corrosion. The obverse color does not match the reverse color, which looks more original.
Looking at my copy of The Cent Book, by Wright, it looks to be the 1820 N-13, less the die breaks... >>
Nice catch. Didn't think about that! Why would someone do that,though?
Sure looks good to me. Magnification is the only way I can see solving this one. The tooling is very good, but why would anyone mess with this coin? It's a beut.
Honestly though, I don't have an example any where near that quaility to compare
Freaking GREAT looking coin either way though!
Edited to add: silly question but, could it possibly be a VERY early strike, before the die crack became more prevalent? Is that possible? Could it be the first strike using the die that someone put aside?
How would you prefer PCGS handle this, and like, coins:
(1) Gennie
(2) Gennie with reason spelled out on holder
(3) Net grade
(4) Details grade
(5) Body bag
......I think great 'moneymaker' for the home team would be a short one paragraph note from the finalizer on exactly what the conclusion on a problem coin was. charge for it...it would be worth it.
PCGS uses a microscope to ID these problems...while it's most difficult to see them on a forum image.
Thanks for sharing.
Garrow
<< <i>(4) Details grade >>
Would be my pick for how I'd best like to see PCGS handle "problem" coins. But the current "genuine" holder is at least a big improvement over the bodybag, where one ended up with nothing for the money. At least now you get authentication and a plastic slab for your fees.
<< <i>Why cant PCGS just tell you exactly what is wrong with the coin? If its tooled where its tooled. What is so difficult about this? >>
I'm guessing for every problem free coin they get, they get 2 or 3 problem coins. I think it would greatly bog down the system if they had to explain what the exact problem was with each problem coin. My guess is, it would double the time it takes to get coins through the system.
I think that the 1920 large cent was "tooled" in fields. It appears to me that the fields had spots or perhaps some roughness removed. The luster looks great on the reverse, but the obverse has a dull, flat look.
According to John Wright all known examples of this variety, including a single Proof, have the die break through the date and all of the stars. I think that those who have pointed that this feature is mosly missing on this piece are correct.
Wright also notes that the coin is usually well struck, so I don't think that the sharp hair detail is a problem. Usually when the hair has been messed with, it's pretty obvious.
Just a guess.
Recipient of the coveted "You Suck" award, April 2009 for cherrypicking a 1833 CBHD LM-5, and April 2022 for a 1835 LM-12, and again in Aug 2012 for picking off a 1952 FS-902.
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