Does anyone collect each grade of a particular coin, same year?

Was wondered if anyone has collected a coin, let's say a 1900 Morgan in grades P-1 and up at each grade?
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Text1922 D grade set
<< <i>I'm working on a grading set for capped bust half dimes from Poor-1 to MS-66, but need all nine years to get the set done. Still lacking PO-1, AG-3, G-4, VG-8, and F-12 to get the set done in PCGS holders >>
Barndog, are you looking for upper-end coins for each grade or just for average-for-the-grade coins? I've always felt that a grading set should be average for the grade, a main reason I have not considered one. I hate buying a coin when I know there are nicer ones out there in the same grade.
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<< <i>I'm working on a grading set for capped bust half dimes from Poor-1 to MS-66, but need all nine years to get the set done. Still lacking PO-1, AG-3, G-4, VG-8, and F-12 to get the set done in PCGS holders >>
Barndog, are you looking for upper-end coins for each grade or just for average-for-the-grade coins? I've always felt that a grading set should be average for the grade, a main reason I have not considered one. I hate buying a coin when I know there are nicer ones out there in the same grade. >>
good question. For the higher-end coins (say, AU-58 to MS-66) I have very nice for grade coins (better than average). The low grade stuff is where I want ACCURATELY graded coins. For example, I don't want to own a PO-1 that is a "shot FA-2" -- I want a barely-identifiable coin to be my PO-1 candidate. In other words, when I look at each coin in the grading set, I want there to be no doubt in my mind that the grade is correct. If that makes sense...
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<< <i>I'm working on a grading set for capped bust half dimes from Poor-1 to MS-66, but need all nine years to get the set done. Still lacking PO-1, AG-3, G-4, VG-8, and F-12 to get the set done in PCGS holders >>
Barndog, are you looking for upper-end coins for each grade or just for average-for-the-grade coins? I've always felt that a grading set should be average for the grade, a main reason I have not considered one. I hate buying a coin when I know there are nicer ones out there in the same grade. >>
good question. For the higher-end coins (say, AU-58 to MS-66) I have very nice for grade coins (better than average). The low grade stuff is where I want ACCURATELY graded coins. For example, I don't want to own a PO-1 that is a "shot FA-2" -- I want a barely-identifiable coin to be my PO-1 candidate. In other words, when I look at each coin in the grading set, I want there to be no doubt in my mind that the grade is correct. If that makes sense... >>
Yep it does. And it makes sense as well. Also, did you buy duplicates for each grade or if you already had (say the ms 65/66) from your set, do you just include them in your 'grading' set. Same goes for the tougher die marriages you have in lower grades. I guess what I'm asking is if your grading set is completely seperate from your date set and die marriage set, or if they overlap.
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<< <i>I'm working on a grading set for capped bust half dimes from Poor-1 to MS-66, but need all nine years to get the set done. Still lacking PO-1, AG-3, G-4, VG-8, and F-12 to get the set done in PCGS holders >>
Barndog, are you looking for upper-end coins for each grade or just for average-for-the-grade coins? I've always felt that a grading set should be average for the grade, a main reason I have not considered one. I hate buying a coin when I know there are nicer ones out there in the same grade. >>
good question. For the higher-end coins (say, AU-58 to MS-66) I have very nice for grade coins (better than average). The low grade stuff is where I want ACCURATELY graded coins. For example, I don't want to own a PO-1 that is a "shot FA-2" -- I want a barely-identifiable coin to be my PO-1 candidate. In other words, when I look at each coin in the grading set, I want there to be no doubt in my mind that the grade is correct. If that makes sense... >>
Yep it does. And it makes sense as well. Also, did you buy duplicates for each grade or if you already had (say the ms 65/66) from your set, do you just include them in your 'grading' set. Same goes for the tougher die marriages you have in lower grades. I guess what I'm asking is if your grading set is completely seperate from your date set and die marriage set, or if they overlap. >>
overlap at XF-40 and above, since XF-40 is the "minimum acceptable" grade for my primary set. Plus, MS-66 CBHD are too pricey to have a dupe laying around in a grading set. I have multiple examples of each grade (even the tough MS-60) at and above XF-40
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<< <i>I'm working on a grading set for capped bust half dimes from Poor-1 to MS-66, but need all nine years to get the set done. Still lacking PO-1, AG-3, G-4, VG-8, and F-12 to get the set done in PCGS holders >>
Barndog, are you looking for upper-end coins for each grade or just for average-for-the-grade coins? I've always felt that a grading set should be average for the grade, a main reason I have not considered one. I hate buying a coin when I know there are nicer ones out there in the same grade. >>
good question. For the higher-end coins (say, AU-58 to MS-66) I have very nice for grade coins (better than average). The low grade stuff is where I want ACCURATELY graded coins. For example, I don't want to own a PO-1 that is a "shot FA-2" -- I want a barely-identifiable coin to be my PO-1 candidate. In other words, when I look at each coin in the grading set, I want there to be no doubt in my mind that the grade is correct. If that makes sense... >>
Yep it does. And it makes sense as well. Also, did you buy duplicates for each grade or if you already had (say the ms 65/66) from your set, do you just include them in your 'grading' set. Same goes for the tougher die marriages you have in lower grades. I guess what I'm asking is if your grading set is completely seperate from your date set and die marriage set, or if they overlap. >>
overlap at XF-40 and above, since XF-40 is the "minimum acceptable" grade for my primary set. Plus, MS-66 CBHD are too pricey to have a dupe laying around in a grading set. I have multiple examples of each grade (even the tough MS-60) at and above XF-40 >>
That's what I figured. We're overlapping the seated dollar and liberty nickel slots in our type set for the same reason.
I purchased solid examples of MS-63 through MS-67 as a grading ref.
Must be me, but in that 95-S grading set that Steve27 posted the link in, looks like the PO-1 has more detail than the FR-2. I not it's not like a life or death thing, but just saying........
-wes
Too many positive BST transactions with too many members to list.
<< <i>Must be me, but in that 95-S grading set that Steve27 posted the link in, looks like the PO-1 has more detail than the FR-2. I not it's not like a life or death thing, but just saying........
-wes >>
Wes:
That 1895-S set is mine, and I agree that the Poor-01 looks better than the Fair-02. But I guess I'm wrong since that's how PCGS graded 'em, right?
<< <i>LINK (Not my set.) >>
Now that's a great looking set. I wonder if Marty knows about that P01.
Herb