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What are the odds of Proof-70?

Batman23Batman23 Posts: 4,999 ✭✭✭✭✭
I would like to get a Proof 70 Alaska State Quarter. I am trying to determine if it is worth it...

For those of you that are submitting Proof quarters for grading, what percent do you get back at what grade? (i.e. 2% at 68, 96% at 69 and 2% at 70) Do you pre-screen and select or send in all you have?

Do you find a different percentage for clad vs silver?

What is the best method to recover money from the "other coins" from the sets? (I.E. sell as set in package with one quarter missing, slab and sell, sell as singles, ebay, BST, etc)

Thanks for any information, Bruce

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    fcfc Posts: 12,789 ✭✭✭
    just pop in a bid of 350 and be done with it. on ebay right now. 4 hours left

    if you figure you will send in 8 coins for grading hoping for one 70,
    add in shipping costs both ways, submission fees, time to find the
    right quarters, blah blah...

    it would be easier to just dig around on the internet for a reasonable
    price???
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    RussRuss Posts: 48,515 ✭✭✭
    Just be patient and you'll be able to pick up an already graded one for less than it would cost you to buy enough sets and submit enough coins to get one.

    Russ, NCNE
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    RussRuss Posts: 48,515 ✭✭✭
    PS: There are already 25 clad examples graded PR70. It's going to be a bumper crop.

    Russ, NCNE
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    jmcu12jmcu12 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭
    Or just save a @$IT tonne of money and go for a 69 for $89.


    ebay linkage


    Then send the rest of the quarters to me for saving you about $300. image
    Awarded latest "YOU SUCK!": June 11, 2014
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    RussRuss Posts: 48,515 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Or just save a @$IT tonne of money and go for a 69 for $89. >>



    The 69DCAM's go begging at under $20.

    Russ, NCNE
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    Batman23Batman23 Posts: 4,999 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Alright, I get the picture, without large volume it is not worth it. I was also interested in some statistical information to figure it out. If only one percent or less is going to come back as 70 then it is not even an option for me. I might just be better off buying 69s.
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    jmcu12jmcu12 Posts: 2,452 ✭✭✭


    << <i>The 69DCAM's go begging at under $20. >>




    I know, I was trying to get some free certified quarters as an Ebay auction finder's fee. image


    edited to say:

    In all seriousness, if you are into buying 70's then go for it. I collect lots of stuff that others feel is a waste of time and money so who am I to judge a 70's lover. But IMO if you are looking for the most bang for your buck, then as you said, go for the 69's. You will probably not be able to tell the difference, other than the insert, and you will save yourself lots o'green.


    Good luck!
    Awarded latest "YOU SUCK!": June 11, 2014
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    RussRuss Posts: 48,515 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I was also interested in some statistical information to figure it out. If only one percent or less is going to come back as 70 then it is not even an option for me. >>



    So far, 391 clads have been graded - 366 PR69DCAM and 25 PR70DCAM. Before long, the 70's will be less than $100.

    Russ, NCNE
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    BECOKABECOKA Posts: 16,957 ✭✭✭
    I have sent in hundreds of sets in the past, it's not easy. I am with the others, just buy it and be done. I also am happy with a 69 which at some point will be available for less than the cost of grading.
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    Batman23Batman23 Posts: 4,999 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Just be patient and you'll be able to pick up an already graded one for less than it would cost you to buy enough sets and submit enough coins to get one.

    So far, 391 clads have been graded - 366 PR69DCAM and 25 PR70DCAM. Before long, the 70's will be less than $100.

    Russ, NCNE >>




    Russ was right on this one!! I just picked up a PR70DCAM Silver Alaska Quarter for $42 and a PR70DCAM Clad Alaska Quarter for $36. My first PR70s and I get the set for under $80. I am glad I waited. They have been available for under $100 for quite a while now but at under $50 I figured it was time to get one.

    FYI, Current numbers; CLAD PR69=1827 PR70=197; SILVER PR69=3554 PR70=311; 10.3% of graded Clads are PR70 & 12.5% of graded Silvers are PR70.

    Kind of gives you an idea how little demand there is out there.
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    ModCrewmanModCrewman Posts: 4,027 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks for the follow-up, that's an interesting reminder for those putting together sets of moderns.
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    BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,485 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1. Buy the coin already graded and don't waste a lot of money sending multiple pieces in for grading.

    2. Thing about buying an PR-69 DCam. There is not much of a difference, and you will save a lot of money.

    3. Why not buy a silver Proof? They are brighter and more attractive.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
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    Keep in mind coin pop only go one way up
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    pmacpmac Posts: 3,189 ✭✭✭
    These statistics are interesting. Do you suppose of all the moderns by the mint, that these numbers hold up? Many people 'dis' the mint, but I think they do a pretty good job, considering the volume.
    Paul
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    BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,485 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>These statistics are interesting. Do you suppose of all the moderns by the mint, that these numbers hold up? Many people 'dis' the mint, but I think they do a pretty good job, considering the volume. >>



    The mint was doing a better job making their products a few years ago than they are now. I've stopped ordering most stuff directly from the mint because I can hand pick stuff in the secondary market.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
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    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you collect slabs and grades, better to pursue the secondary market. If you collect and enjoy coins for themselves, well, the original issue set is fine. Cheers, RickO
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    57loaded57loaded Posts: 4,967 ✭✭✭
    cool thanks for the ressurected post, good thoughts for newbies here
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    << <i>Keep in mind coin pop only go one way up >>

    image
    image
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    Batman23Batman23 Posts: 4,999 ✭✭✭✭✭
    This is one reason I think I will stay out of the modern issues. I wanted the Alaska Quarter in PR70DCAM and at $40 I am happy with it. It is insane to think that you could have "invested" $350+ two years ago for this and have it worth $40 now.

    It is all about Demand and Supply.
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    llafoellafoe Posts: 7,220 ✭✭


    << <i>This is one reason I think I will stay out of the modern issues. I wanted the Alaska Quarter in PR70DCAM and at $40 I am happy with it. It is insane to think that you could have "invested" $350+ two years ago for this and have it worth $40 now.

    It is all about Demand and Supply. >>



    You could have spent $10,000 plus for a PR70DCAM 1999 Silver Delaware quarter a few years ago... now they sell for about $2,800-$3,800. Modern proofs are tough!
    WANTED: Cincinnati Reds TEAM Cards
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    Batman23Batman23 Posts: 4,999 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>You could have spent $10,000 plus for a PR70DCAM 1999 Silver Delaware quarter a few years ago... now they sell for about $2,800-$3,800. Modern proofs are tough! >>



    image That would hurt.
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    garrynotgarrynot Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Keep in mind coin pop only go one way up >>



    And a Proof 70 can only go one way. DOWN There are documented examples of coins going bad in holders.

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