I hear some puppies down the street - would you like to come over and kick them?
Seriously speaking, you are entitled to your opinion, but what do you hope to accomplish by bashing what some other collectors truly enjoy?
The Low Ball Registry has been discussed here numerous times - and about the only legitimate negative thing I have heard said about it is that it stands to encourage the destruction of coins that as numismatists we should be the custodians of future generations; while this may be true, I cannot imagine any scenario that is worse the problems we already endure with dipping & ATing.
I own one PO-1 candidate coin: an 1834 Eagle. While generally I collect high grade material, I love this coin for its history.
"government is not reason, it is not eloquence-it is a force! like fire, it is a dangerous servant and a fearful master; never for a moment should it be left to irresponsible action." George Washington
<< <i> Your not gonna stick it in the spokes.....!!!..........I said the Hub of the wheel.....kinda different... >>
The hub of the wheel?
Where in the hub?
Last I checked, the hub of a wheel and the spokes generally are attached. After my last year I geared it down to 8K miles for the seaon. My longest season was 12.5K miles, so, again unless you can tell me where ON THE HUB of a wheel you placed the coin where ON THE HUB, it did not touch the spokes, I would be very pleased. IF you are saying IN THE HUB, what coin are you takling about? Last I checked, the hub is filled with bearings, grease and oh yes, the skewer to keep the wheel attached to the hub.
IF you compromise a hub, you cause torsion to be adversely placed on the spokes. You torque a spoke, while in motion, it breaks. Generally at the U of the spoke which last I checked, is ON THE HUB of the wheel. D'OH! >>
....Please....!!!! the Lord gave you a brain to use ....Please use the space provided....!!!
i also like low grade coins.. i just do not care to play the submission games to get a "P01". Raw or slabbed, i like them either way, but I will not be sending them in.
<< <i> Your not gonna stick it in the spokes.....!!!..........I said the Hub of the wheel.....kinda different... >>
The hub of the wheel?
Where in the hub?
Last I checked, the hub of a wheel and the spokes generally are attached. After my last year I geared it down to 8K miles for the seaon. My longest season was 12.5K miles, so, again unless you can tell me where ON THE HUB of a wheel you placed the coin where ON THE HUB, it did not touch the spokes, I would be very pleased. IF you are saying IN THE HUB, what coin are you takling about? Last I checked, the hub is filled with bearings, grease and oh yes, the skewer to keep the wheel attached to the hub.
IF you compromise a hub, you cause torsion to be adversely placed on the spokes. You torque a spoke, while in motion, it breaks. Generally at the U of the spoke which last I checked, is ON THE HUB of the wheel. D'OH! >>
....Please....!!!! the Lord gave you a brain to use ....Please use the space provided....!!! >>
Oh I see, I believe we have something called transference here.
It could not possibly be that its an unsound and ill defined idea on your part, but rather, I have in some way a deficiency which prevents me from understanding your bad idea in a clever way......Wooo hooo. THUS, the bad idea on your part is now, my problem.
Generally, at this point in a conversation, I tend to walk away and ride my bike. As it is under 35 degrees outside, I will remain impressed at your display of rapier whit.
to Whitby I suggest the next time on a nice spring day when the weather rather suits you to ride up a big rig an eighteen (18) wheeler and either ask or examine the odometer on the wheel hub.You will find it encased in a not so elaborate unit that records the milage but stays level when the wheel is rolling along.The liquid inside keeps the inside unit level. NOW....can you understand any dynamics as to any wear factor in a situation that would be in relation to the wear factor of COINS....?!?!?!
<< <i>Actually it would be very easy to detect artificial wear. Idiot. >>
not sure who`s the greater idiot - but "artificial wear easily detected" ......are you serious ?? a woodhead of braindead qualities could devise a method to wear down a coin so that it would be no different then the real McCoy >>
I doubt this. There is usually aging of the metal associated with normal wear that wouldn't be reproduceable in an artificial wear environment. All the worn metal would appear to have the same amount of exposure to the atmosphere and the environment.
<< <i>to Whitby I suggest the next time on a nice spring day when the weather rather suits you to ride up a big rig an eighteen (18) wheeler and either ask or examine the odometer on the wheel hub.You will find it encased in a not so elaborate unit that records the milage but stays level when the wheel is rolling along.The liquid inside keeps the inside unit level. NOW....can you understand any dynamics as to any wear factor in a situation that would be in relation to the wear factor of COINS....?!?!?! >>
Yes, I get it now. You are speaking of a very large wheel on a very large vehicle.
I have been speaking about bikes and bicycles. In fact, I pretty much concluded that as I did say a BIKE wheel that would have been the uptake.
As you missed that in totum, you could use the EYES in your HEAD to READ the posts before you discharge your advice about USING my head because last I checked, bike wheels and a multi ton vehicle do not equate.
On a bike wheel, this is tracked with a magnet on a spoke. As this magnet passes another magnet, you will get a reading on your handle bar mounted computer about speed, avg speed distance travelled etc etc. The accuracy of said data depends on how you have clibrated the magnet on the wheel so that you are getting an accurate reading. The hub in this instance would be far too large and heavy to use on a bicycle. In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. After that you skid on the pavement and you slow down as you grind off layers of skin. We call this road rash. It would be a MONUMENTALLY bad idea of BIBLICAL PROPORTIONS to do this with a bike wheel. I have had this happen when a rock lodged in my brake pad and ONCE was enough for me.
SO, as I do not wish to acquire the nickname of bacon due to the brown scabs which would cover my body after said actions, I will just sit back and get a good chuckle. HA HA HA.
PO-1 collectors are real idiots when there perfectly acceptable AG-3 and Good 4 coins needing a loving home. G-4 gives you 400% more coin design....400% MORE! Think about that next time you collectors are slumming for the PO-1 grade, and I am basking in my coin with 400% more detail than you!
<< <i>In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. >>
<< <i>In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. >>
........... >>
Oh, now that you misunderstood the issue, I am now beating the dead horse.
<< <i>After this, I'm going to have to send all my PO01 Morgans to get stickers! Just to be sure they are solid for the grade! >>
Actually, wouldn't you want a P01 coin that DOESN'T sticker? If the coin stickers, that means it's closer to being a FA02, and you want to be as far away from an upgrade as possible.
Hmmmm..... new sticker for CACa: "lowest possible for the grade".... it's not overgraded, but damn is it crappy for the grade!
<< <i>In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. >>
........... >>
Oh, now that you misunderstood the issue, I am now beating the dead horse.
Your syndrome is showing, take care. >>
The issue is Coins and the artificial wear if I'm not mistaken...was the topic of the OP not your objections to my proving that wear could be done...!!
FC brings up some very good points. I just don't see why PO-1 coins need to be slabbed. Can't you just enjoy them raw? Unless, the coin is a rare issue, then I can't see the point.
Try locating, attributing and collecting large cents by Sheldon number anywhere under G04. Same goes for VAMs. Such approaches are monumentally more challenging than chasing top pops. Fortunately, collectors of modest means can engage in all of this too. The rich guy has the benefit though of perhaps having higher grade specimens available to compare pick up points to make attributions.
I collected low grade pieces before they started to become more popular this year, and I continue to collect them now.
It's no easy to fake a PO01. To "make" one takes years of pocket wear. You simply can't sand down a coin or make one in the course of minutes, or even in a rock tumbler. They're easily detectable.
I see your avatar is a modern. Quite easily, I could bash you for collecting something that has little or no historical significance, saw no use in eras gone by (one of the most interesting things about older coins is to think about where they've been and who spent them), but I won't, because you need to let people collect what they like.
<< <i><---- Still waiting for one genius to provide a single example of an AW PO01 in PCGS plastic. >>
I don't recall the threads that I've seen them in, but I've seen Ikes in PO1 and FR2 PCGS holders. It doesn't take a genius to realize that these were truly not in circulation for so long to create the wear, but was used as a pocket piece. Someone would be hard-pressed to create a mechanical means of creating that wear, but anything is possible. Some people probably do the pocket piece thing deliberately to wear something down enough for the coveted plastic grade of PO1. I think it's outrageous, but whatever.
I recall here in the last few month that David Hall purchased a 2 1/2 Indian for $500. It looked great on that coin but I'm sure he wanted it for the web as an example.
<< <i>I collected low grade pieces before they started to become more popular this year, and I continue to collect them now.
It's no easy to fake a PO01. To "make" one takes years of pocket wear. You simply can't sand down a coin or make one in the course of minutes, or even in a rock tumbler. They're easily detectable.
I see your avatar is a modern. Quite easily, I could bash you for collecting something that has little or no historical significance, saw no use in eras gone by (one of the most interesting things about older coins is to think about where they've been and who spent them), but I won't, because you need to let people collect what they like. >>
You can collect what you want...if it's PO1or MS69 ....but to AW down a coin is just the same as AT/NT......IMO.....
recall here in the last few month that David Hall purchased a 2 1/2 Indian for $500. It looked great on that coin but I'm sure he wanted it for the web as an example.
That poor thing was so worn that authenticity determination is the problem not the grade.
Whoever is careless with the truth in small matters cannot be trusted with important matters.
I don't see paying to put PO-1/FR-2 coins in plastic any more idiotic than paying for FS plastic. JMO
Best,
John
Need the following OBW rolls to complete my 46-64 Roosevelt roll set: 1947-P & D; 1948-D; 1949-P & S; 1950-D & S; and 1952-S. Any help locating any of these OBW rolls would be gratefully appreciated!
Comments
I hear some puppies down the street - would you like to come over and kick them?
Seriously speaking, you are entitled to your opinion, but what do you hope to accomplish by bashing what some other collectors truly enjoy?
The Low Ball Registry has been discussed here numerous times - and about the only legitimate negative thing I have heard said about it is that it stands to encourage the destruction of coins that as numismatists we should be the custodians of future generations; while this may be true, I cannot imagine any scenario that is worse the problems we already endure with dipping & ATing.
I own one PO-1 candidate coin: an 1834 Eagle. While generally I collect high grade material, I love this coin for its history.
Have I Nice Day!
Artist
>>>My Collection
lets go to the video tape.....................
<< <i>
Your not gonna stick it in the spokes.....!!!......
The hub of the wheel?
Where in the hub?
Last I checked, the hub of a wheel and the spokes generally are attached. After my last year I geared it down to 8K miles for the seaon. My longest season was 12.5K miles, so, again unless you can tell me where ON THE HUB of a wheel you placed the coin where ON THE HUB, it did not touch the spokes, I would be very pleased. IF you are saying IN THE HUB, what coin are you takling about? Last I checked, the hub is filled with bearings, grease and oh yes, the skewer to keep the wheel attached to the hub.
IF you compromise a hub, you cause torsion to be adversely placed on the spokes. You torque a spoke, while in motion, it breaks. Generally at the U of the spoke which last I checked, is ON THE HUB of the wheel. D'OH! >>
I would like to see you make one of these:
Raw or slabbed, i like them either way, but I will not be sending them in.
<< <i>
<< <i>
Your not gonna stick it in the spokes.....!!!......
The hub of the wheel?
Where in the hub?
Last I checked, the hub of a wheel and the spokes generally are attached. After my last year I geared it down to 8K miles for the seaon. My longest season was 12.5K miles, so, again unless you can tell me where ON THE HUB of a wheel you placed the coin where ON THE HUB, it did not touch the spokes, I would be very pleased. IF you are saying IN THE HUB, what coin are you takling about? Last I checked, the hub is filled with bearings, grease and oh yes, the skewer to keep the wheel attached to the hub.
IF you compromise a hub, you cause torsion to be adversely placed on the spokes. You torque a spoke, while in motion, it breaks. Generally at the U of the spoke which last I checked, is ON THE HUB of the wheel. D'OH! >>
Oh I see, I believe we have something called transference here.
It could not possibly be that its an unsound and ill defined idea on your part, but rather, I have in some way a deficiency which prevents me from understanding your bad idea in a clever way......Wooo hooo. THUS, the bad idea on your part is now, my problem.
Generally, at this point in a conversation, I tend to walk away and ride my bike. As it is under 35 degrees outside, I will remain impressed at your display of rapier whit.
I suggest the next time on a nice spring day when the weather rather suits you to ride up a big rig an eighteen (18) wheeler and either ask or examine the odometer on the wheel hub.You will find it encased in a not so elaborate unit that records the milage but stays level when the wheel is rolling along.The liquid inside keeps the inside unit level.
NOW....can you understand any dynamics as to any wear factor in a situation that would be in relation to the wear factor of COINS....?!?!?!
<< <i>Actually it would be very easy to detect artificial wear. Idiot.
not sure who`s the greater idiot - but "artificial wear easily detected" ......are you serious ??
a woodhead of braindead qualities could devise a method to wear down a coin so that it would be no different then the real McCoy
<< <i>
<< <i>Actually it would be very easy to detect artificial wear. Idiot.
not sure who`s the greater idiot - but "artificial wear easily detected" ......are you serious ?? a woodhead of braindead qualities could devise a method to wear down a coin so that it would be no different then the real McCoy >>
I doubt this. There is usually aging of the metal associated with normal wear that wouldn't be reproduceable in an artificial wear environment. All the worn metal would appear to have the same amount of exposure to the atmosphere and the environment.
Real age is difficult to reproduce.
<< <i>to Whitby
I suggest the next time on a nice spring day when the weather rather suits you to ride up a big rig an eighteen (18) wheeler and either ask or examine the odometer on the wheel hub.You will find it encased in a not so elaborate unit that records the milage but stays level when the wheel is rolling along.The liquid inside keeps the inside unit level.
NOW....can you understand any dynamics as to any wear factor in a situation that would be in relation to the wear factor of COINS....?!?!?! >>
Yes, I get it now. You are speaking of a very large wheel on a very large vehicle.
I have been speaking about bikes and bicycles. In fact, I pretty much concluded that as I did say a BIKE wheel that would have been the uptake.
As you missed that in totum, you could use the EYES in your HEAD to READ the posts before you discharge your advice about USING my head because last I checked, bike wheels and a multi ton vehicle do not equate.
On a bike wheel, this is tracked with a magnet on a spoke. As this magnet passes another magnet, you will get a reading on your handle bar mounted computer about speed, avg speed distance travelled etc etc. The accuracy of said data depends on how you have clibrated the magnet on the wheel so that you are getting an accurate reading. The hub in this instance would be far too large and heavy to use on a bicycle. In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. After that you skid on the pavement and you slow down as you grind off layers of skin. We call this road rash. It would be a MONUMENTALLY bad idea of BIBLICAL PROPORTIONS to do this with a bike wheel. I have had this happen when a rock lodged in my brake pad and ONCE was enough for me.
SO, as I do not wish to acquire the nickname of bacon due to the brown scabs which would cover my body after said actions, I will just sit back and get a good chuckle. HA HA HA.
Tyler
<< <i>In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. >>
<< <i>
<< <i>In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. >>
Oh, now that you misunderstood the issue, I am now beating the dead horse.
Your syndrome is showing, take care.
<< <i>After this, I'm going to have to send all my PO01 Morgans to get stickers! Just to be sure they are solid for the grade!
Actually, wouldn't you want a P01 coin that DOESN'T sticker? If the coin stickers, that means it's closer to being a FA02, and you want to be as far away from an upgrade as possible.
Hmmmm..... new sticker for CACa: "lowest possible for the grade".... it's not overgraded, but damn is it crappy for the grade!
I sense new markets being made!
1/2 Cents
U.S. Revenue Stamps
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>In fact, if one were to put a coin on the static magnet, it would rub the hub and at high speeds, and would seize the wheel causing you to get flung over the handle bars. >>
Oh, now that you misunderstood the issue, I am now beating the dead horse.
Your syndrome is showing, take care. >>
The issue is Coins and the artificial wear if I'm not mistaken...was the topic of the OP not your objections to my proving that wear could be done...!!
<< <i>FC brings up some very good points. I just don't see why PO-1 coins need to be slabbed. Can't you just enjoy them raw? >>
Again, that's true for ANY coin. P01 coins "need" to be slabbed for the same reason any coin would "need" to be slabbed.
US and British coin collector, and creator of The Ultimate Chuck E. Cheese's and Showbiz Pizza Place Token & Ticket Guide
<< <i>
<< <i>FC brings up some very good points. I just don't see why PO-1 coins need to be slabbed. Can't you just enjoy them raw? >>
Again, that's true for ANY coin. P01 coins "need" to be slabbed for the same reason any coin would "need" to be slabbed. >>
To protect them for the future?
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>FC brings up some very good points. I just don't see why PO-1 coins need to be slabbed. Can't you just enjoy them raw? >>
Again, that's true for ANY coin. P01 coins "need" to be slabbed for the same reason any coin would "need" to be slabbed. >>
To protect them for the future?
That's right! You wouldn't want any of those P01 coins to accidently get worn UP in grade! (joke...just a joke.)
US and British coin collector, and creator of The Ultimate Chuck E. Cheese's and Showbiz Pizza Place Token & Ticket Guide
Kewpie Doll award-10/29/2007
Successful BST transactions with Coinboy and Wondercoin.
COINS FOR SALE AT LINK BELOW (READ CAREFULLY)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oqym2YtcS7ZAZ73D6
PCGS, ANACS, & NGC Certified Coins on My Website.
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SSDC - Life Member
ANA - Pay As I Go Member
It's no easy to fake a PO01. To "make" one takes years of pocket wear. You simply can't sand down a coin or make one in the course of minutes, or even in a rock tumbler. They're easily detectable.
I see your avatar is a modern. Quite easily, I could bash you for collecting something that has little or no historical significance, saw no use in eras gone by (one of the most interesting things about older coins is to think about where they've been and who spent them), but I won't, because you need to let people collect what they like.
Innocent electrons died so this thread could criticize P-01's.
<< <i>
I just know the difference between the two is that one is a low grade
coin and the other is in a better state of preservation. >>
And one (the worn one) has lived more history than the other.
Don't think of it as worst condition, think of it as having passed through the most hands.
<< <i><---- Still waiting for one genius to provide a single example of an AW PO01 in PCGS plastic. >>
I don't recall the threads that I've seen them in, but I've seen Ikes in PO1 and FR2 PCGS holders. It doesn't take a genius to realize that these were truly not in circulation for so long to create the wear, but was used as a pocket piece. Someone would be hard-pressed to create a mechanical means of creating that wear, but anything is possible. Some people probably do the pocket piece thing deliberately to wear something down enough for the coveted plastic grade of PO1. I think it's outrageous, but whatever.
<< <i>I collected low grade pieces before they started to become more popular this year, and I continue to collect them now.
It's no easy to fake a PO01. To "make" one takes years of pocket wear. You simply can't sand down a coin or make one in the course of minutes, or even in a rock tumbler. They're easily detectable.
I see your avatar is a modern. Quite easily, I could bash you for collecting something that has little or no historical significance, saw no use in eras gone by (one of the most interesting things about older coins is to think about where they've been and who spent them), but I won't, because you need to let people collect what they like. >>
You can collect what you want...if it's PO1or MS69 ....but to AW down a coin is just the same as AT/NT......IMO.....
That poor thing was so worn that authenticity determination is the problem not the grade.
Whoever is careless with the truth in small matters cannot be trusted with important matters.
Proud recipient of two "You Suck" awards
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
<< <i>Electrons rarely die.
Don't they have a ...Half life....???
Dave
<< <i>I happen to like low grade coins.
Undergraded crap!
Proud recipient of two "You Suck" awards
Best,
John
1947-P & D; 1948-D; 1949-P & S; 1950-D & S; and 1952-S.
Any help locating any of these OBW rolls would be gratefully appreciated!
<< <i>I don't see paying to put PO-1/FR-2 coins in plastic any more idiotic than paying for FS plastic. >>
Except that slabbed PO-1 coins may sell for a LOT more money than a slabbed VG coin or even a slabbed VF coin.
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/publishedset/209923
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/album/209923
More, Please.
<< <i>I don't see paying to put PO-1/FR-2 coins in plastic any more idiotic than paying for FS plastic. JMO
Best,
John >>
Unless it is a 2K key date that cost 20K in VF.
Nothing artificial here...................