The official "1952 Topps Set" thread.

fsjeter · January 11, 2007 2:03AM

Yes. It's true. I've finally lost my mind. I've decided to start pieceing together the 1952 Topps set in PSA 5 or 6. With the monsters in this set (Mantle, Mays, Robinson, Matthews, Campanella, Reese, Pafko, and Berra) I'll probably never finish it, but what the heck, I'll have a blast trying. I just picked up my first two PSA 5's (#139 Ken Wood and #270 Lou Brissie) for $46.75 dlvd. This marks the first time I have ever owned any 1952 Topps and they are something to behold. I figure I'll pick up as many as I can in the $20 to $40 dollar range and leave the big boys for later. Wish me luck!

Scott

Edited to change the title of the thread!

cohocorp · January 11, 2007 2:36AM

good luck with it scott. i am just finishing up the 2 '52 sets i started almost a year ago. its not easy.
pat

stormsurge · January 11, 2007 5:05AM

Happy hunting!

RipublicaninMass · January 11, 2007 6:15AM

They truly are a beauty! I had all of mine stolen many years ago, sold to J.J. Teaparty and then the collector and writer Clarke booth.

HECK55 · January 11, 2007 6:57AM

I sent in 13 of my 52's in Dec. but no results yet. I expect 5's and 6's out of them but may be surprised. I had 3 I felt might stand a chance at a 7 and one that might go an 8 but I doubt it. Card #'s 24, 27, 51, 72,72, 85, 90, 94, 106, 106, 117, 125, and 126. Might part with some of these - esp the doubles. Rick

RonBurgundy · January 11, 2007 7:31AM

I am thinking about selling off all of my post-1960 stuff and diving in. I am foolhardy.

Ron

jamesgotpoorman · January 11, 2007 8:15AM

RipublicaninMass · January 11, 2007 9:02AM

<< I am thinking about selling off all of my post-1960 stuff and diving in. I am foolhardy.

Ron >>

Not as foolhardy as thinking the other way around! Selling 52's for POST-60 stuff

jaxxr · January 11, 2007 9:02AM

I have an almost complete set in about NM + condition !!! Just missing 5 cards I believe.

I do enjoy the set very much, it is an offical reprint done by Topps around 1983. No way I could afford the real thing, so the reprint will have to do. I do have a few original 52 Topps and Bowmans graded from 5 to 8, will probably keep a few and eventually sell the others.

Best of luck, on a really tough and fairly expensive task. The set is a true classic and a complete original one, regardless of condition, will be something to be proud of.

jeff8877 · January 11, 2007 11:00AM

Heck55,

Saw your 52 cards waiting to be graded. I have about 40 commons at the moment but would like to get more in 5-6 grades. Will never have the stars but hope to eventually get most of the commons. The cards I could use at a fair price are:

24,27,72 with black backs and card 51 with regular back.

Thanks Jeff

fsjeter · January 11, 2007 11:17PM

<< 24,27,72 with black backs and card 51 with regular back. >>

I was looking at the January SMR and noticed that it says "1st series 1-80 Red Back variations usually sell for approx 15%-20% more than the listed price." Is this a misprint because I thought the Black Backs sold for a premium?

Scott

HECK55 · January 11, 2007 11:36PM

Jeff - the ones I sent in are: #24 red back, #27 black back, #72 both were red backs and the #51 is a red back. PSA recieved my sub 12/14 I think - no grades yet. Rick

perkdog · January 12, 2007 6:44AM

Good Luck with this, quite a task.

Beardown · January 12, 2007 7:00AM

I have the sickness as well

and hope to finish it some day. I'm collecting 4-6 range and buy the commons about weekly and tend to buy one large ticket item when I get a lump of money together rather than a bunch of commons. Just my approach as I can always afford a common here or there but to get one of the big ticket ones for me is few and far between so I have to strike when I can. I find it very tempting to want to buy a large group of commons just to get a bigger jump in numbers but always come back to the strategy I mentioned. Best of luck as I know I need it also.

frankhardy · January 13, 2007 12:51AM

This is just a thought. If I started a quest like that, I know I would never be able to afford to finish it in those PSA grades. Why not try this - why not try a raw set in GD to VG? I know this is a PSA Set Registry Forum. I know that you wouldn't be able to list them in the registry, so that might be a problem. I guess what I am saying, is that you can pick up the commons in that condition for $5 to $10 each. That set would look mighty good in an album, even in GD to VG condition. I may be totally missing your point with the set registry. That's just how I would do it. At least that way, it would be do-able with an end in sight. Of course, if you can afford the PSA 5's and 6's, then GO FOR IT! I just couldn't do it.

Anyway, just thinking out loud (or on the keyboard, that is). Good luck with your venture!

cravetopps · January 13, 2007 1:34AM

I started the 52 set about a year ago and am about 33% done in 8. I don't have the big three, Matthews, Pafko or Mantle. Nor do I have Mays. I still want to complete this set at 8 but honestly, it will be tough, extremely tough. If I started this 10 or fifteen years ago, that would be one thing. There are a lot of low pop 8s and we all know what Matthews and Mantle 8s cost. I'm not in any hurry to change my strategy but I think if I had calculated the true cost of this set in 8s, I might have settled for 6 or 7 especially since I am building the 34 Goudey in 8 as well. I think setting the goal at 5 or 6 is doable as long as you have some idea what the total cost would be, what your budget is and how many 7s and 8s you'll need if you have to settle for a Mantle at 2 or 3 and or a Pafko, Mays or Matthews at a lower grade. Because of the weighting of these three cards, you may need quite a few 7s and 8s to keep your avg. GPA at the level you want. I wish you the best of luck. It is such a great set from so many perspectives.

softparade · January 13, 2007 4:43AM

<< This is just a thought. If I started a quest like that, I know I would never be able to afford to finish it in those PSA grades. Why not try this - why not try a raw set in GD to VG? I know this is a PSA Set Registry Forum. I know that you wouldn't be able to list them in the registry, so that might be a problem. >>

I think that most who collect this and most other real vintage in low to mid grade like the fact that the graded and slabbed cards have much better odds of not being altered in some way.

benderbroeth · January 13, 2007 4:55AM

my goal is just to finish this set in any grade i want it all in psa...so with the stars i go for 2-3 and i am sure with a mantle i will go for a 1-2 but i want the whole set in any grade so that is my strategy.

sayheykid54 · January 13, 2007 10:47PM

I like the appearance of the classic 1952 Topps set. But for my money the underrated 1954 Topps set with it's bright bold coloring front and back and great rookie cards is my personal favorite.

cohocorp · January 14, 2007 4:02AM

frankhardy-- of the 2 sets i have, the better one is a registry set. #24 on the list. the second set is in a binder like you mentioned except for all the high numbers, they are all psa graded and in a seperate registry for only the high #s. but you are right, they do look good i a binder.

fsjeter-- from my experience, the black backs carry the premium not the red backs. you are correct though when you stated that smr says the opposite. doensnt make sense to me either

before experiencing the first hand knowledge of the nuances of the issue, it was very very difficult to determine the financial commitment i had entered into when starting this quest about 1 year ago. i initially intended to build just 1 set in vg to vg/ex condition. but about 3 months into it, that strategy went out the window. my better set has a gpa of roughly 4.75. now i want to get it to at least 5.0 gpa. the second set borders on 4.0 vg/ex. a big mistake i made in the beginning, was that i thought i could get psa3 high number commons for about $80. well naturally, that was not to be. i greatly underestimated the high numbers as well as the minor stars. i thought i was in good shape in the beginning because i had the big stars already for the most part. naturally you learn the nuances as you go. i keep wanting to upgrade still so it seems to be never-ending. i actually could start a third set at this point from all the extras i have from upgrading to this point. staying with one strategy was always a toughy for me. but i has been a blast nonetheless.

Davalillo · January 14, 2007 7:45AM

CraveTopps,

This is a brutal set to finish in PSA 8 or better.

I have exactly 350 cards now in psa 8 or better but with an upgrade to my 8 o/c Mantle likely to cost $75K and the Pafko probably more, I feel like I am still miles away on the set. I am happy each time I can get a card here. I have many time said to myself just try to get the remaining cards in 7 but have resisted the temptation.

Jim

fsjeter · January 14, 2007 11:37PM

I understand that cards were issued in Canada with a muted tone on the front and grey card stock on the back. Is there a premium for the grey back cards issued in Canada? I believe my #270 Brissie is one of these.

Scott

fsjeter · January 15, 2007 3:26AM

Another question. If you picked up a low number Black Back and It was not indicated on the PSA flip, would it be worth it to have the flip changed? I saw this PSA 5 #25 Johnny Groth (Black Back) for sale. The flip does not indicate Black Back but the scan cleary shows a Black Back. Thoughts?

Scott

cohocorp · January 15, 2007 4:16AM

scott-- as for changing the flip, i dont think it really matters unless of course it really matters to you. pretty much the same goes for the grey backs you mentioned earlier. with commons, hardly any difference. canada had the luxury of getting a large proportion of the high numbers when they were distributed back in '52. i bet you didnt know that in some of the first series 1953 packs, occasionally some of the '52 high numbers were inserted randomly. how about that one! that is a little known piece of info.

HECK55 · January 15, 2007 12:57PM

Scott - PSA posted my grades today. The cards you were interested in I really did not have all of. You wanted black backs on 24,27, and 72. Mine are 24 and 72 red backs and #27 black back - the # 51 I have is a red back - you stated regular back so I assume you wanted a red back on that one. Mine graded as follows:

#24 red PSA 4
#27 black PSA 6
#72 red PSA 6OC
#72 red PSA 5
#51 red PSA 6

One of the cards I sent in - #117 Sherm Lollar came back a PSA 4. This was the nicest looking of all the cards - centering and corners appeared to be nmt/mnt but I obviously missed a wrinkle or crease on it somewhere. I had it down as a possible PSA 8.

I ended up with (7) PSA 6 grades, (1) PSA 6OC, (2) PSA 5, and (3) PSA 4's in the 52's that I sent in. As far as selling any of these I need to check with my son as he and I are in partners on a lot of this although his work keeps him from getting very involved. I still have a few ungraded 52's and a small number of graded ones. Rick

Beardown · January 16, 2007 12:00PM

Just looking for opinions on the Jackie Robinson in PSA 4 condition as far as value. Centering is dead on and crease free. Just has soft corners but the colors and overall apperance are outstanding. $1,000 to $1,200 sound resonable for value or am I too high on this? Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

Steve

fsjeter · January 17, 2007 9:19AM

<< Just looking for opinions on the Jackie Robinson in PSA 4 condition as far as value. Centering is dead on and crease free. Just has soft corners but the colors and overall apperance are outstanding. $1,000 to $1,200 sound resonable for value or am I too high on this? Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

Steve >>

In my opinion, that's a little steep considering the last one sold on eBay for approximately $600.00.

Scott

cohocorp · January 17, 2007 10:11AM

beardown--
here is the recent history of sales in live auctions of #312 jackie robinson in psa 4.

1/11/07 eBay $598.88

8/27/06 eBay $686.00

pat

Beardown · January 17, 2007 11:18AM

Thanks for the replies and yes I agree it seems awful steep but just wanted to get some opinions. Sometimes a card comes around you've been wanting and matches all your needs but the price is just TOO high to consider. Thanks again.

SOM · January 17, 2007 11:23AM

Bear...is it an auction? If so, and if it's been bid up to $1,000, then that's the market price (assuming no shills have bid) and you would be paying market price for a card you really love. What's to worry with that?

On the other hand, if it is for sale for $1,000, then, heck - make the seller an offer. He or she knows those prices just as well a we do. An offer of, say, $675 for your perfect specimen might fly!

Go for it...and good luck!!

Nick

Beardown · January 17, 2007 7:45PM

It's a "buy it now" deal and I know they are quit proud of this card with the asking price but your right. It never hurts to offer. I think I will. Thanks.

Beardown · January 20, 2007 5:50AM

I made one offer and got no answer with it ending in time expireing. I e-mailed them asking for some feedback or possibly a counter-offer as I am very serious about trying to make something happen. They did mail back promptly this time and came down $75 dollars and the reply of "we are not going to take any other offers as the ones we have gotten are not even close so far". I guess I like the idea of the quick response and they did give there "low dollar" on this card but I still would be paying a premium for the card. I'm gonna have to think this one over I guess as I DO believe it exceptional enough to warrent the highest end priceing for such a classic card but need to learn to be patient also I suppose. Just venting here I guess and thinking out load with folks who can "understand" my dimema as we all collect these 1952 beauties! Thanks for listening

DRS · January 20, 2007 6:33AM

I have about 50 or so PSA 6 - 8 1952 Topps that I am willing to trade for PSA 7 1952 Topps

If you have any 7's, feel free to email me

roastedcat · January 20, 2007 1:14PM

Heres your chance to get a Mantle 8

Mantle PSA 8

Beardown · January 20, 2007 9:33PM

If you don't mind the qualifier that is a beautiful Mantle. Slightly better centering and that card goes up nearly 20K! Sometimes its way to easy to get hung up on the holder and forget the actual card. I shared this in the other forum but it really should of gone here with the 1952 Topps talk....

. My newest addition and a card I always thought was one of the classic in this set. Please share if anyone gets a new '52 they can scan and post.

~Steve

cravetopps · January 21, 2007 12:43AM

Jim...I agree with your assessment, particularly for newbies like myself. If I had started this 20 years ago, like many collectors, it would have been more feasible. Without some big $$$$'s, no way. And, even if you have the $$$$'s, how much should be risked on cards? All questions I ask myself every day. For now, I am waiting until I have a little more experience and taking a little diversion into pre-war and HOFers from all eras just to get a taste for different set styles. This has been quite fun. Thanks for your valued insight.

jaxxr · January 21, 2007 3:24AM

Here's four beauties I got from two recent subs, they are for sale or trade if interested.

cravetopps · January 21, 2007 3:27AM

that is awesome, jaxxr. Seems rare that raw 52s are submitted these days much less getting 8s. Incredible.

Beardown · January 23, 2007 11:49AM

Can anyone give me a little insight into why card #80 is weighted so heavy (9) in the set? Just noticed this. Thanks in advance.
Steve

HECK55 · January 23, 2007 12:23PM

The #80 Herman Wehmeier is rare in PSA 8 with or without qualifiers - 11 PSA 8 WO/Q's and 5 PSA 8 W/Q's out of 227 regular (red back) cards graded. There are 0 PSA 8 WO/Q's and 2 PSA 8 W/Q's out of 33 black backs graded. Rick

cohocorp · January 23, 2007 12:50PM

beardown -- just wait it out on the jackie robinson. i think you will certainly be able to find one for less than $700 in psa 4. i watch this set constantly and will let you know when one comes around. its a waste to drop $1000 on it. you will find one. the thing you have to learn is that another always comes along. it took me awhile to learn that. unless of course the real high end cards, i.e. some of the psa 8s and 9s. never know when another will come along with them. but since i cant afford that level, it dont sweat any of them. by the way, turn on your pm feature.

Beardown · January 23, 2007 7:48PM

Yeah I did pass on the card and will wait it out for a solid Robinson or Campanella to show up. Those are the two big ones on my radar right now and in my price range to grab one or the other. Thanks for the replies.
Steve

cohocorp · January 23, 2007 10:13PM

the campanella is going to be tougher. as i think that one is especially on alot of collector's radar. i dont need it for either of my sets, but i always keep an eye out for that card and bid (enter snipes) on most which come up. i know i am not the only one who does this either. i dont normally with the robinson. for my main set i have them both in psa 5 but i feel stronger on the campy for some reason. they both have a set weighting of 8 pts. both HOFers so they are equal in that regard.

Beardown · January 24, 2007 6:23AM

I think overall the Robinson has more "fan" appeal and recognition going for it but it is one of the first three in the high numbers and is therefore one of the double print cards from my understanding makeing it more available. The campy on the other hand is scarcer and should be a little tougher overall. I'm needing both and would like to get one or the other in 4 or possibly 5 condition when one comes up. Do keep me in mind if you run across one. And I did turn on the pm option..thanks for the heads up on that.

~Steve

Beardown · January 24, 2007 6:26AM

One other thing I wanted to ask was again anyone who can tell me a more specific reason for card #80 haveing such a high grade weight to it. Is it condition sensitive? Scarce in any grade? Not really sure until recently I knew anything was unusual with this card. Thanks in advance to any replies.

~Steve

cohocorp · January 24, 2007 6:55AM

#80 is tough in high grade. thats all.

Twinsthreepeat · January 24, 2007 10:16AM

The way 1952 Topps Cards were printed is the 1st Series were cards 1-80. There were 60 single print cards and 20 Double prints. I'm sure someone knows which were SP and which were Dp. I believe there was a little lag time between 1st series and 2nd series. Meaning that card #80 had a rubber band damaging it until the second series came out.

fsjeter · January 26, 2007 12:02AM

<< The way 1952 Topps Cards were printed is the 1st Series were cards 1-80. There were 60 single print cards and 20 Double prints. I'm sure someone knows which were SP and which were Dp. I believe there was a little lag time between 1st series and 2nd series. Meaning that card #80 had a rubber band damaging it until the second series came out. >>

This was taken from the website 1952 Topps Baseball Cards.

"Although I have referenced the set as coming out in two series, it is widely thought by most of the historians of the 1952 Topps Baseball Card set that the set was actually made using 6 different print runs. The first print run was thought to be cards 1-80 and they were also thought to be the black back variation. You've probably noticed that all of the Joe Page, Johnny Sain error cards have the black backs (if you find one with the red back, let me know). It is also thought that Topps was not happy with the way the black backs made the image of the players appear on the opposite side of the card. So when they went back to press and fixed the Page, Sain biographies, they also reprinted the 1-80 cards with red backs. Whether this was all done at the same time and during the same printing seems to be of different opinions. The second print run was believed to have been cards 81-130. These cards would start off with the red backs and that would be the norm for the rest of the prints. Cards 131-190 were believed to be the third print run. These cards have the distinction of being printed using mostly white back cardboard. The gray back cardboard can be found in 131-190, but is it hard to find?, let me know. The fourth print run was thought to be 191-250. The fifth print run, 251-310, and finally 311-407 would have been the sixth and final print run. So why have I made reference on the front page about the cards coming out in 2 series. Well, mainly because that is the way this set has been characterized almost from the beginning of its existence. It seems the first 5 printings came out one right after the other throughout the baseball season. For some reason, the sixth and final printing came out later in the season, as if it were a later series than the other cards. That was one of the reasons it is believed that the first 5 print runs were regarded as the first series and the sixth print run became known as the second series. Whether you regard it as a six series set or a two series set, it really doesn't matter. What does matter is that the cards were made and they will always be here for us to enjoy."

Interesting site.

Scott

cohocorp · January 26, 2007 3:06AM

check out this bad boy!!!

Beardown · January 27, 2007 2:53AM

Now that is what I call a good looking picture and one heck of a good time to rip through on a Saturday afternoon. Thanks for shareing.

Beardown · January 27, 2007 10:14AM

Fsjeter,
Was just wondering if you've starting makeing a dent your set at all yet. Please keep us updated with info. and scans as you get them! I believe this has become the "official" 1952 topps thread and I hope everyone continues to keep it active. I know I'm going to try and keep up with any new cards as I get them (slow but sure). Here's my newest one since we have talked about it recently. Not the nicest example but decent centering (slight diamond cut) and should fit in well with my set.

The official &quot;1952 Topps Set&quot; thread.

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The official "1952 Topps Set" thread.