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Authenticating Gold

I'm new to the boards (my first post) but I've been lurking for quite some time. I've been reading about all the fake gold out there and it made me wonder about a couple of pieces that I have. One is unslabbed and the other is in a 3rd world holder. I plan on showing both to a couple of dealers. Do you think it would be better to show the slabbed one as is or crack it open and put it in a saflip prior to getting an opinion? My thought is that the 3rd world holder might bias the opinion. Also any advice or web sight link that may help me determine authenticity would be appreciated also. Thanks in advance for any advice.
can't get enough!!!

Comments

  • What kind of gold is it? Certain series are found counterfeit much more often than others.

    Welcome to the boards!
  • FatManFatMan Posts: 8,977
    Here's a Big Fat Welcome to Ya!image

    Post pics here. Although we can't authenticate from a pic, we might be able to prove it to be a fake from a pic.
  • Thanks for the welcome Clevegreg and Fatman. The coins in question are $2.50 indian and $5 liberty (coronet head?). Sorry, I can't post pics at the time (no camera). That's why I'll be showing them to some dealers soon. So, what do you think? Show it slabbed or unslabbed?
    can't get enough!!!
  • MrEurekaMrEureka Posts: 24,301 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Most coins can be authenticated or condemned without removing them from slabs.
    Andy Lustig

    Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.

    Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
  • CladiatorCladiator Posts: 18,061 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Start by weighing them and measuring them. Your Indian Quarter Eagle should be 18mm in diameter and weigh 64.5 grains. The Liberty Half Eagle should be 22.5mm (1839-1840) or 21.6mm (1840-1908) and weigh 129.0 grains. Remember for a well circulated coin the weight would be a smidgen less. Also check the edge of the coin to see if there is a line that runs around the coin...this would sing out that the coin was cast and not struck which is a definite counterfeit red flag. If you find all the measurements are good and there is no casting seam....it could still be a fake and you'll still need an expert to look at it for verification. However, if you do see problems based on those factors you can save yourself the hassle of asking a pro.
  • TorinoCobra71TorinoCobra71 Posts: 8,054 ✭✭✭
    image To The Forums. Get that Gold into a respected Slab!

    TorinoCobra71

    image
  • Thanks Andy, Gladiator, and Torino. They both look good as far as I can tell. The $5 will be easy to weight but the $2.50 is slabbed. Guess I'll have to crack it to check. Not sure if the $5 is worth slabbing but the $2.50 definitely would be worth it. I've compared it to pics on Heritage and the details are better than some of the PCGS 64's I've seen on there.
    can't get enough!!!
  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,341 ✭✭✭✭✭
    For the past 30 years most fake US gold coins have been made of the proper fineness, weight, and diameter so these tests are not conclusive unless they fail. You need a true expert (not the typical coin dealer) to examine these coins under a stereo microscope. Counterfeits these days are that good.



    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • Thanks for the input Perry. When you say expert, does you mean only through a grading service? I'll be going to a show next weekend so I'm sure to run into at least a couple of dealers that deal with a lot of gold. I figured if they gave their "looks good to me" blessing, then it will be worth the money to get the experts opinion and grade.
    can't get enough!!!
  • DentuckDentuck Posts: 3,819 ✭✭✭
    What are the dates? I'll check my copy of Bill Fivaz's United States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide for diagnostics of common counterfeits of those particular dates.
  • Thanks Dentuck! You have to love the people on these boards. $5 is 1882-P and the $2.50 is 1926.
    can't get enough!!!
  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,341 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Thanks for the input Perry. When you say expert, does you mean only through a grading service? I'll be going to a show next weekend so I'm sure to run into at least a couple of dealers that deal with a lot of gold. I figured if they gave their "looks good to me" blessing, then it will be worth the money to get the experts opinion and grade. >>



    That would work. Big dealers that specialize in US gold need to be able to authenticate their product. I've seen too many raw US gold coin fakes in the cases of smaller dealers that don't specialize in this area.




    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,341 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>What are the dates? I'll check my copy of Bill Fivaz's United States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide for diagnostics of common counterfeits of those particular dates. >>



    As far as the Indian $2 1/2 gold coins, you could put an entire set of 15 together using nothing but counterfeit coins.



    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • ArtistArtist Posts: 2,012 ✭✭✭
    Welcome!!
  • Perry, that makes me feel a little worried about the $2.50 but I appreciate the honesty. If it is genuine (please please please), it's a beauty. Hopefully I'll be able to do a quick check when I receive Dentuck's info. Are the $5 counterfeited often too?
    Thanks for the "Welcome" Artist
    can't get enough!!!


  • << <i>As far as the Indian $2 1/2 gold coins, you could put an entire set of 15 together using nothing but counterfeit coins. >>



    Yes, I've seen a couple of those. The Indian quarter eagles are much more frequently counterfeited than the liberty half eagles.

    Most modern gold counterfeits are struck to fool collectors. They won't have a casting seam, and the size and weight will be pretty close to correct. I look for raised lumps and lunar craters in the fields and spikes from the denticles on Libs. Sometimes the devices don't rise from the field sharply enough for the coin to be real. I have a hard time seeing the tooling marks on the Indian's neck. I don't even think about buying raw Indians.
    The strangest things seem suddenly routine.
  • DentuckDentuck Posts: 3,819 ✭✭✭
    ($5 is 1882-P and the $2.50 is 1926. )

    I checked Bill Fivaz's United States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide.

    He doesn't examine any counterfeit 1926 quarter eagles, but here's what he says about the 1882-P $5 (or at least one common counterfeit of that date):

    = = =

    - on the obverse, look for a tool mark under the "1" in the date. There will be raised blemishes in the field in front of the face. Also look for a long tool mark in the field, under the bun of Liberty's hair.

    - on the reverse, look for tool marks at the "RI" in AMERICA, under the "F" in FIVE, and between the eagle's left wing and the scroll. There will be tool marks through many of the dentils.

    = = =

    These are repeating characteristics that occur on all of the 'coins' struck from a particular set of counterfeit dies.

    In the book, Bill has enlargements of all of these diagnostics so you see exactly what to look for.

    I know the verbal description alone isn't as good as having the photos to follow along with, but I hope this helps!

    -- Dentuck
  • Thanks Dentuck!! I appreciate you getting that info for me.
    I'm happy to write that I didn't see any of those identifiers that you mentioned. The sad part is the coin looked more beat up under the 20X loop than it does with the naked eye but that's to be expected.

    I ran the weight and diameter diagnostics too. I haven't pull it out of the 2X2 yet but in the holder it It weighed 11 grams. Redbook weight says 8.359 grams so I'm guessing it's in the ballpark. Diameter is 21.6mm. Looking good so far!
    can't get enough!!!
  • mhammermanmhammerman Posts: 3,769 ✭✭✭
    From the ANA money store....


    Item BKF13 List price $19.95 (non-members)
    United States Gold Counterfeit Detection Guide

    Good luck!
  • BECOKABECOKA Posts: 16,961 ✭✭✭
    I know the two dealers in my area could care less about the slab and will grade / detect accordingly. It should not matter if you leave it in the slab.
  • TheRavenTheRaven Posts: 4,143 ✭✭✭✭
    Me personally, I will not purchase classic gold that is not PCGS slabbed, my prefered grading company.....

    Risk is to high.....
    Collection under construction: VG Barber Quarters & Halves
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,219 ✭✭✭✭✭
    A dealer, who is worth his salt, will not be influenced by the holder when it comes to authentication. Now as to what he is willing pay, the holder can have a great deal of influence.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • I really appreciate everyone's input on this. As for the book mhammerman, I do not plan on buying raw gold anymore (and actually just need 2 more pieces (three if you count Stella!! - I wish!!). However, I am interested in getting the ANA grading guide. I heard on here that it is the best one to study. Do you agree?

    Raven - Agree with you totally but I must have had a "stupid" moment. (Probably because I wasn't reading this board at the time)

    Becoka and Bill - I'll see if I can find an expert this weekend to take a look. If he thinks it looks good, the $2.50 is getting cracked and definitely going in for slabbing. Don't think the $5 would be worth slabbing but I'd feel more comfortable if an expert tells me it looks good.
    can't get enough!!!
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,219 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, the ANA Grading Guide is an excellent book to study when you are starting to learn to grade coins. I prefer some of the earlier editions to the current one because there were more photos and more coins covered. For example the new book lumps the three types of silver three cent piece together. That’s just not accurate because the designs and strike characteristics of the three types were different. The new book also lumps the Classic Head Gold (1834 to 1839) with the earlier types for grading, which is also inadequate IMO.

    Sorry PCGS, but the PCGS grading guide (both editions) is inadequate IMO. There are too few photos. EVERY type of coin show be shown in the circulated grades.

    Still you can study the books until the cows come home, NOTHING can replace the need to look at as many coins as possible ideally with the help of an experienced grader. Studying the book and looking at as many coins as possible is the only way to learn to grade coins.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • Bill, can you be more specific on "earlier editions" (dates, edition #, etc.)? That way I can purchase a good one and do it right the first time. Not having a dealer/mentor, I'll be relying on a lot of pics. I've been collecting (hoarding/amassing LOL) for a long time but never honed my grading skills. I'm ready to start!
    can't get enough!!!
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,219 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I may have misspoke. I can locate the First (line drawings), Fifth and Sixth editions of the ANA grading guide in my library, but can’t find any of the others. I know that I had one of them, and my recollection was it had more photos. But it’s not turning up for me right now.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • 1jester1jester Posts: 8,637 ✭✭✭


    << <i>For the past 30 years most fake US gold coins have been made of the proper fineness, weight, and diameter so these tests are not conclusive unless they fail. You need a true expert (not the typical coin dealer) to examine these coins under a stereo microscope. Counterfeits these days are that good. >>



    Absolutely. Die struck counterfeits exist aplenty and are extremely good.

    imageimageimage

    PS: Welcome!!
    .....GOD
    image

    "Ask, and it shall be given you; seek, and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened unto you." -Luke 11:9

    "Hear, O Israel: The LORD our God is one LORD: And thou shalt love the LORD thy God with all thine heart, and with all thy soul, and with all thy might." -Deut. 6:4-5

    "For the LORD is our judge, the LORD is our lawgiver, the LORD is our king; He will save us." -Isaiah 33:22
  • TheRavenTheRaven Posts: 4,143 ✭✭✭✭
    Photograde is also a nice reference book for grading.....

    I have the PCGS book also as multiple sources are good to have.....

    Grading takes alot of time along with reading and seeing coins to get good at grading.....

    I feel I am able to grade the coins I collect in the grades I collect pretty well so.

    Gold is basically a different beast simply because the prices out so high compared to the dollars the average collector has
    Collection under construction: VG Barber Quarters & Halves
  • Thanks Raven. I remembered hearing about that book years ago. Loaded with pictures correct (henceimageHOTOGRADE)? Another item on my buy list. By the way, I'm looking to buy quite a few supplies and books. Would you like to suggest any vendors that would have both supplies and books? (I remember reading about JP's and Brooklyn Gallery a few days back.)
    can't get enough!!!

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