<< <i>World coins are essentially the "wild cards", as you need only to match the date or country. So 1835 British can be followed by anything 1835 or anything British. >>
<< <i>Wild cards are also coins with more than one date on them, like some Commems and, for instance, a bicentenial quarter >>
Correct on both counts. However, you can't just plunk down these "wildcards" on top of anything you choose- you gotta have an opening to play them. For instance, in the examples above, to play that 1835 British coin, it also must have been preceded by something British or something (from any country) with the 1835 date on it.
And in the second example, the "1776-1976" Bicentennial quarter, if you play one of those, you're really giving the NEXT player the wildcard, since he or she will then have three options: a Washington quarter, anything dated 1976, OR anything dated 1776!
But I believe it's 1835 or Bust dime to me, right now. So I'll play Bust dime.
That's Bust dime or anything from 1820 to the next player!
On BS&T Now: Nothing. Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up! Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
Being as these circulated like other coins of the time I hope that it is fair to play this 1837 Hard Times Token -- It's the only thing from 1837 I have a picture of...
On BS&T Now: Nothing. Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up! Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
On BS&T Now: Nothing. Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up! Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
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Comments
perhaps a key date???
great thread
<< <i>World coins are essentially the "wild cards", as you need only to match the date or country. So 1835 British can be followed by anything 1835 or anything British. >>
<< <i>Wild cards are also coins with more than one date on them, like some Commems and, for instance, a bicentenial quarter >>
Correct on both counts. However, you can't just plunk down these "wildcards" on top of anything you choose- you gotta have an opening to play them. For instance, in the examples above, to play that 1835 British coin, it also must have been preceded by something British or something (from any country) with the 1835 date on it.
And in the second example, the "1776-1976" Bicentennial quarter, if you play one of those, you're really giving the NEXT player the wildcard, since he or she will then have three options: a Washington quarter, anything dated 1976, OR anything dated 1776!
But I believe it's 1835 or Bust dime to me, right now. So I'll play Bust dime.
That's Bust dime or anything from 1820 to the next player!
I admit I was tempted to play this "1835", but I won't, since that would be a technical foul.
(The date's on there, but not in the usual manner a US coin collector would be accustomed to.)
So it's still 1835 or Bust dime.
(oops..... that belongs on the "naughty" thread...........)
Rick
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
1834 or bust half dime...
-Randy Newman
Next play is any Capped Bust Half Dollar, or any 1834.
Next play is any Capped Bust Half Dollar, or any 1828.
1828 ... nice half Mozin ...
well then ... since I just photographed her this morning ... how about this one
editted to add ... hahaha ... nice one rg!
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
-Randy Newman
<< <i>After a capped bust half dime I can play another right? >>
Right.
I played one while you were posting.
It's Bust half dime or anything from 1832 to you (or the next person).
Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up!
Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
1837 or Seated Half Dime (See, I do own something other than Baby Busties!)
-Randy Newman
Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up!
Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
That's 1837 or Hard Times Token (of any type) to the next player.
It was a nice "wildcard" dual date, too.
I always liked those. Might still have one down at the antique mall, but I suspect it's sold now.
1841 or Seated dollar!
1871 or seated dollar- that's a dollar that's served its time and purpose, LordM
-Randy Newman
1871-S Seated Dollar
Fighting the Fight for 11 Years with the big "C" - Never Ever Give Up!
Member PCGS Open Forum board 2002 - 2006 (closed end of 2006) Current board since 2006 Successful trades with many members, over the past two decades, never a bad deal.
1865 or Seated Dollar
-Randy Newman
Just a little nudge to get us into Shield 5c territory.
Next play is any Shield Nickel, or any 1866.
1868 or Shield Nickel
Rick
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES