How long does it take you to grade a coin?
GoldCoinLover
Posts: 1,244
..How long does it take? I mean, to grade a coin well, so it would get the same grade (or about the same grade) when graded by PCGS, NGC, or ANACS.
I use my PCGS grading book when I can to double check the grade, but it usually takes me 5 minutes.
I use my PCGS grading book when I can to double check the grade, but it usually takes me 5 minutes.
0
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Cameron Kiefer
<< <i>10-15 seconds.
Cameron Kiefer >>
Darn Wippersnapper.
Self Indulgence | Holey Coins | Flickr Photostream
Usually the first impression has a huge impact on the grade of the coin. Eye appeal for me is usually determined in the first 2 or 3 seconds. The luster ought to pop-right out at you in the first 5-10 seconds also. Distracting marks, striking quality and overall grade shouldn't take much more time after that. I find that it takes just a tad-bit longer to grade F-XF coins than it does MS60+ coins. Then again, you should have experience in knowing what areas of the coin to look at to determine rub, striking quality, ect. Experience is very important.
Overall, I would say it takes me usually about 15 seconds to grade a coin if I already know the series pretty well, 20-30 seconds if I have to compare it or if it's borderline AU/MS, and anywhere from 15-35 seconds to grade F-XF coins properly because I have to pull out my loupe and look for certain characteristics.
Russ, NCNE
What Russ said. But I seem to grade the photos in the "Guess The Grade" threads much more accurately than a coin that's actually
in front of me.
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<< <i>..How long does it take? I mean, to grade a coin well, so it would get the same grade (or about the same grade) when graded by PCGS, NGC, or ANACS.
<< <i>
About 65 days for economy
But, seriously, there are so many variables involved it is impossible
to grade so you "would get the same grade" by PCGS. I think I can
get within a point in about 60 seconds with a loup, though.
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When I look at a coin, my first inclination is to answer, "Do I like it or not?" If no, I put it down, whether it is MS-68 or VG-8. If I like it, I try to look for hidden marks, signs of cleaning, damage, or doctoring, signs of wear, the strike, luster, etc. I take my time and try to enjoy the process and learn from it.
I guess it makes a difference what coins you are searching. If you have rolls and rolls of unsearched BU Jeffersons, time is probably of the essence. Fortunately, $3's, Dahlonega $5's, etc. do not come in rolls, and I never feel pressured to make a quick decision about a coin.
When I am considering a coin for purchase, I ask myself these questions:
1. Do I like it?
2. Is it original? (answer need not be yes, but still an important question)
3. Is it priced reasonably for the grade?
<< <i>When I am considering a coin for purchase, I ask myself these questions:
1. Do I like it?
2. Is it original? (answer need not be yes, but still an important question)
3. Is it priced reasonably for the grade? >>
When I'm considering a coin for purchase, I ask myself this question:
1. Can I flip it for a profit?
Russ, NCNE
2. Can I flip it for a profit?
3. Can I flip it for a profit?
....
Yes, Russ, I realize that.
Some coins are always hard for me to grade. I have a devil of a time differentiating between F/VF and VF/XF on some seated coins, for example.
K S
rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
I recently attempted to grade about 25 Morgans. I found that I had the roughest time with whether a coin was VF or EF -and if it was AU or MS - and if it was MS - then I really get lost. Anyone want to help?
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Other series. Grade means nothing. Its the look and price that counts.
Ken
Billy