<< <i>ok, who around here has such a thing and whos gonna deliver? happy hunting >>
give me a couple of days to hit the not-so-local B&M. They won't be PO01, but I'll try to deliver. I will be getting my hands on a D & S. I'll try to do them both to see what's what with differentiating them.
<< <i>This is a Todd a/k/a blu62vette a/k/a bluCC Photos set of pictures.
Much thanks to Todd for supplying such great pictures, unfortunately account space restrictions forced me to shrink them.
Here is the victim coin. I started carrying it last week.
>>
You should photograph it every 7 days until it is worn down to PO1...then you coud do a Time Lapse of the coin's demise. That would be cool but it might take a few years.
"If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64 Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
I usually carry a pocket full of change with my two pocket pieces (Ike dollars) mixed in with the change. I've been carrying them for about 20 years and they are down to Fine20. I'll be long dead before they get down to AG.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>I've got a 1875 seated half pocket piece that's going to be PO1 before long - any interest?? Check back in 2015 or so....... >>
It's this sort of humor that compels me to post, much more than a chance at "scoring" from the initial offer. >>
It's still on.
no mention of reward amount other than it going to be less than the original offer since interest has waned somewhat.
so first is a score plan, but a close second or a tie for first is the challenge. Since I'm more or less a newb (with 10k posts) it's something I'd like to try.
This is NOT going to be easy.
And the end result is that *I* have to holder it as a PO01 first, so it's all on me.... what can newb do???? Will I screw it up and fail? It's cheap fun. (I also took up coin doctoring to learn, read keets' "coin doctor thread" for my "purple morgan" post. What can newb do?)
1970D (and the 70S) are both 40% silver via a 90% silver outer layers clad over a copper core. This is the same composition as the 65-69 Kennedy coins.
<< <i>You know what? I have a possible PO1 kennedy{ungraded}Can't read the date! but I do see the copper on the reed. All 1970 kennedies are silver, right? >>
if you can't read the date and there are no other diagnostics on the coin to fix a single date to it, then it won't grade PO01.
the seemingly beat up nature of the coin is a result of poor lighting and tiny variations on the coin's surface (mid dies state). in reality, the surface imperfections are die imparted and the coin viewed in hand would absolutely not be described as beat up,
The pocket change: red arrow - 1970 D // yellow arrow - 1971 half dollar obverse of both reverse of the 1971 half dollar
The pocket change: red arrow - 1970 D // yellow arrow - 1971 half dollar obverse of both reverse of the 1971 half dollar >>
You Suck! Awarded 6/2008- 1901-O Micro O Morgan, 8/2008- 1878 VAM-123 Morgan, 9/2022 1888-O VAM-1B3 H8 Morgan | Senior Regional Representative- ANACS Coin Grading. Posted opinions on coins are my own, and are not an official ANACS opinion.
I will try just a couple of other half dollars then.
it would be hard to tell from even todd's photos, but it appears to have lost a grade. there is a bit of loss in hair detail in the usual place and a bit more flattening of the cheek and jawline in the usual place.
A '70-D as 40% silver will wear a hellalot quicker than a clad date. Almost 10 years have elapsed since the initial offer - I'd have to see $2K to give one up now.
Once, when I had the belt on my washing machine replaced the repairman handed me 7 coins that were perfectly worn down. I don't think that I threw them away or spent them, but I haven't seen them for a few years.
<< <i>This is a Todd a/k/a blu62vette a/k/a bluCC Photos set of pictures.
Much thanks to Todd for supplying such great pictures, unfortunately account space restrictions forced me to shrink them.
Here is the victim coin. I started carrying it last week.
>>
You should photograph it every 7 days until it is worn down to PO1...then you coud do a Time Lapse of the coin's demise. That would be cool but it might take a few years. >>
As a seller: USARarities, acloco, coindudeonebay, Twinturbo, MICHAELDIXON, blu62vette, mothra454, LukeMarshall, USARarities As a buyer: QualityCurrencycom, tychojoe, AurumMiner, Collectorcoins, perfectstrike, ModCrewman, LeeBone, nickel, REALGATOR, MICHAELDIXON, pointfivezero, Walkerguy21D Trades: georgiacop50
Just put one in my pocket. Will ship in 22 years, 7 months and 19 days!
Numismatist. 50 year member ANA. Winner of four ANA Heath Literary Awards; three Wayte and Olga Raymond Literary Awards; Numismatist of the Year Award 2009, and Lifetime Achievement Award 2020. Winner numerous NLG Literary Awards.
@ScarsdaleCoin said:
What do you think we are stupid...selling you a PO01 for only $ 1,500....that would be a pop 1 coin....you would be able to sell a pop 1 coin for tens of thousands of dollars.....
That's just simply not true, lots of pop one coins dont sell for ten k plus
@ScarsdaleCoin said:
What do you think we are stupid...selling you a PO01 for only $ 1,500....that would be a pop 1 coin....you would be able to sell a pop 1 coin for tens of thousands of dollars.....
That's just simply not true, lots of pop one coins dont sell for ten k plus
@ScarsdaleCoin said:
What do you think we are stupid...selling you a PO01 for only $ 1,500....that would be a pop 1 coin....you would be able to sell a pop 1 coin for tens of thousands of dollars.....
That's just simply not true, lots of pop one coins dont sell for ten k plus
You're arguing with a 14 year old post.
True, but the poster has logged in as recently as today and the OP as recently as this week.
That, plus there still doesn't exist a coin that was asked for in the OP.
The longevity of our forum membership and topics are some of the great aspects of this forum.
I’m sorry, but I don’t see how a 1970 40% clad half could have circulated naturally to have worn down and end up in a poor-1 grade. The odds are extremely remote especially with all the eagle eyed collectors looking through pocket change. First of all, someone would have to break it out of its mintset packaging and then it is spent for decades until it is barely identifiable. Second, how often does anyone even get a half dollar in change?
I certainly would prefer a nice Unc 1970-D for $10 or whatever they are going for than a coin that is barely identifiable and “worth” $1500!
@Colonialcoin said:
I’m sorry, but I don’t see how a 1970 40% clad half could have circulated naturally to have worn down and end up in a poor-1 grade. The odds are extremely remote especially with all the eagle eyed collectors looking through pocket change. First of all, someone would have to break it out of its mintset packaging and then it is spent for decades until it is barely identifiable. Second, how often does anyone even get a half dollar in change?
I certainly would prefer a nice Unc 1970-D for $10 or whatever they are going for than a coin that is barely identifiable and “worth” $1500!
For those who might be confused, the 1970-D half dollar was only issued in mint sets and never for general circulation. Furthmore it was issued at a time when the the opinions of many were that its 40% content was or would soon have a melt value that exceeded its face value. Therefore getting any of these coins into circulation and having it stay there was just about impossible.
If someone had cut one of these coins out of a mint set in 2004, when the post was first made, and carried it around in their pocket everyday as a pocket piece for the next 14 years they might be getting close to a well worn coin. It would take a lot of jingling.
Once you had done that, you have to get PCGS to grade it PR-01 which is not that easy. After all of that you might get $1,500 if the offer is still open, or if it was serious. All in all I’d say that it would not have been worth the effort.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
@BillJones said:
For those who might be confused, the 1970-D half dollar was only issued in mint sets and never for general circulation. Furthmore it was issued at a time when the the opinions of many were that its 40% content was or would soon have a melt value that exceeded its face value. Therefore getting any of these coins into circulation and having it stay there was just about impossible.
If someone had cut one of these coins out of a mint set in 2004, when the post was first made, and carried it around in their pocket everyday as a pocket piece for the next 14 years they might be getting close to a well worn coin. It would take a lot of jingling.
Once you had done that, you have to get PCGS to grade it PR-01 which is not that easy. After all of that you might get $1,500 if the offer is still open, or if it was serious. All in all I’d say that it would not have been worth the effort.
I think part of the reason for the challenges was that people were saying these were easy to create with tumblers and other means of artificial wear. The challenge was to see if those people could deliver.
I don't care how you get it to "PO01". Artifical Wear, I don't care. Rock tumbler? Bust it out. As long as PCGS (or, NGC) holders it (and lists it with a correct certification number) I'll buy it from you at the pricetag of $1,500.00.
@BillJones said:
For those who might be confused, the 1970-D half dollar was only issued in mint sets and never for general circulation. Furthmore it was issued at a time when the the opinions of many were that its 40% content was or would soon have a melt value that exceeded its face value. Therefore getting any of these coins into circulation and having it stay there was just about impossible.
If someone had cut one of these coins out of a mint set in 2004, when the post was first made, and carried it around in their pocket everyday as a pocket piece for the next 14 years they might be getting close to a well worn coin. It would take a lot of jingling.
Once you had done that, you have to get PCGS to grade it PR-01 which is not that easy. After all of that you might get $1,500 if the offer is still open, or if it was serious. All in all I’d say that it would not have been worth the effort.
I think part of the reason for the challenges was that people were saying these were easy to create with tumblers and other means of artificial wear.
If it were that easy, there would be more certified PR-01 coins. When you are employing artificial means to duplicate wear, something often goes wrong. The coin might end up too shiny, or it might get an edge mark or depression in the fields. Having lot of wear with virtually no damage is harder to achieve than you might think.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
@BillJones said:
For those who might be confused, the 1970-D half dollar was only issued in mint sets and never for general circulation. Furthmore it was issued at a time when the the opinions of many were that its 40% content was or would soon have a melt value that exceeded its face value. Therefore getting any of these coins into circulation and having it stay there was just about impossible.
If someone had cut one of these coins out of a mint set in 2004, when the post was first made, and carried it around in their pocket everyday as a pocket piece for the next 14 years they might be getting close to a well worn coin. It would take a lot of jingling.
Once you had done that, you have to get PCGS to grade it PR-01 which is not that easy. After all of that you might get $1,500 if the offer is still open, or if it was serious. All in all I’d say that it would not have been worth the effort.
I think part of the reason for the challenges was that people were saying these were easy to create with tumblers and other means of artificial wear.
If it were that easy, there would be more certified PR-01 coins. When you are employing artificial means to duplicate wear, something often goes wrong. The coin might end up too shiny, or it might get an edge mark or depression in the fields. Having lot of wear with virtually no damage is harder to achieve than you might think.
I agree with you, but just today, a member was claiming it was easy to create a PO-01 with a tumbler in this thread:
Of all the excitement and challenges that numismatics offers, taking a 1970-D Half and tumbling it down so that a plastic holder that has to be paid for, can show the number PO-01 has to be at the bottom of the list.
Wouldn't it sort of be like marrying a Victoria Secret model and then daring her to eat until she weighs 600 lbs?
@ARCO said:
Of all the excitement and challenges that numismatics offers, taking a 1970-D Half and tumbling it down so that a plastic holder that has to be paid for, can show the number PO-01 has to be at the bottom of the list.
Wouldn't it sort of be like marrying a Victoria Secret model and then daring her to eat until she weighs 600 lbs?
It's a 1970-D Kennedy Half Dollar... so it would be like marrying Roseanne Barr and then daring her to eat until she weighs 600 lbs.
My current coin collecting interests are: (1) British coins 1838-1970 in XF-AU-UNC, (2) silver type coins in XF-AU with that classic medium gray coloration and exceptional eye appeal.
I bought a tumbler a few years ago - lined it with cloth and put some loose cloth in with the coins - threw in a buck or 2 of coins and ran it for a month - they all came out clearly polished and ungradable - not sure how to replicate a natural pocket environment in a tumbler.
"My friends who see my collection sometimes ask what something costs. I tell them and they are in awe at my stupidity." (Baccaruda, 12/03).I find it hard to believe that he (Trump) rushed to some hotel to meet girls of loose morals, although ours are undoubtedly the best in the world. (Putin 1/17) Gone but not forgotten. IGWT, Speedy, Bear, BigE, HokieFore, John Burns, Russ, TahoeDale, Dahlonega, Astrorat, Stewart Blay, Oldhoopster, Broadstruck, Ricko, Big Moose, Cardinal.
Forget a tumbler, that's near the final stage. Grind the coin down to AG first. Then you'll need to tumble it - the correct medium is important as you don't want "shiny." Next, dull the surface down chemically and then finish it off in a pocket. The trick is to make it look natural. Folks have tried to get several coins altered down to PO-1 past me in the last two years. They get them back with nothing but a reject slip.
As with most things, you need to know what a genuine PO-1 coin looks like. I'm sitting on a half dozen genuine PO-1 Morgan and Peace dollars right now. Your local B&M is a good place to find one. Just ask them to save you one before they are shipped off to be melted. Most don't know the silly money they bring.
PS If the guy with the offer is still around, let's hear from you soon.
Insider2 hit the nail on the head. Such a difficult task, yet I'd imagine- not impossible. Right now I have a "Low Ball" Kennedy short set (as PCGS doesn't offer an official low ball Kennedy set some of us simply list them under the regular Kennedy short set and end up dead last within those 100+ or so sets). That Kennedy set is titled, "peacockcoins" if you are curious to see it. I have ALL the coins needed outside of the 1970-D. It is missing as no circulated coins have been "made".
I also am number 4 (and number 15) in the Low Ball Ike dollar set. That IS a set PCGS recongnizes. Now, that is a fun set as most ultra low ball Ikes are single digit (per grade) coins and the hunt is enjoyable. Those sets are also available for viewing as "peacockcoins" and "braddick" (in that order).
@braddick said:
Insider2 hit the nail on the head. Such a difficult task, yet I'd imagine- not impossible. Right now I have a "Low Ball" Kennedy short set (as PCGS doesn't offer an official low ball Kennedy set some of us simply list them under the regular Kennedy short set and end up dead last within those 100+ or so sets). That Kennedy set is titled, "peacockcoins" if you are curious to see it. I have ALL the coins needed outside of the 1970-D. It is missing as no circulated coins have been "made".
I also am number 4 (and number 15) in the Low Ball Ike dollar set. That IS a set PCGS recongnizes. Now, that is a fun set as most ultra low ball Ikes are single digit (per grade) coins and the hunt is enjoyable. Those sets are also available for viewing as "peacockcoins" and "braddick" (in that order).
The best method has not been mentioned... a vibratory case cleaner (with the proper medium and speed) will produce the desired result in a reasonable time frame....Cheers, RickO
Thank you Dr. Ricko. Now, I shall research "vibratory case cleaner" on the Internet.
Oops, that's actually not a rock tumbler but that's what I had considered as "tumbled." Works much better and does not put nick's all over the coin (examine a blank planchet which is tumbled).
@Insider2 said:
Thank you Dr. Ricko. Now, I shall research "vibratory case cleaner" on the Internet.
Oops, that's actually not a rock tumbler but that's what I had considered as "tumbled." Works much better and does not put nick's all over the coin (examine a blank planchet which is tumbled).
LOL..........The only reason my friend "Dr Ricko" would know about that is because the coins would all come out real shiny.
Rock Paper Scissors everyone.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
Comments
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>On such a low grade coin would the tiny little mint mark even show? >>
I would think that if the date is readable then PCGS/NGC would holder it regardless of whether the mintmark was showing or not. >>
Could be a low circulated proof coin?
I think you would need a hint of a mintmark for PCGS to determine it is a business strike, Denver mint. >>
True, I didn't think about that.
Franklin-Lover's Forum
<< <i>ok, who around here has such a thing and whos gonna deliver? happy hunting
give me a couple of days to hit the not-so-local B&M. They won't be PO01, but I'll try to deliver.
Much thanks to Todd for supplying such great pictures, unfortunately account space restrictions forced me to shrink them.
Here is the victim coin.
I started carrying it last week.
<< <i>This is a Todd a/k/a blu62vette a/k/a bluCC Photos set of pictures.
Much thanks to Todd for supplying such great pictures, unfortunately account space restrictions forced me to shrink them.
Here is the victim coin.
I started carrying it last week.
You should photograph it every 7 days until it is worn down to PO1...then you coud do a Time Lapse of the coin's demise. That would be cool but it might take a few years.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.<< <i>I've got a 1875 seated half pocket piece that's going to be PO1 before long - any interest?? Check back in 2015 or so.......
It's this sort of humor that compels me to post, much more than a chance at "scoring" from the initial offer.
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.<< <i>
<< <i>I've got a 1875 seated half pocket piece that's going to be PO1 before long - any interest?? Check back in 2015 or so.......
It's this sort of humor that compels me to post, much more than a chance at "scoring" from the initial offer.
It's still on.
no mention of reward amount other than it going to be less than the original offer since interest has waned somewhat.
so first is a score plan, but a close second or a tie for first is the challenge. Since I'm more or less a newb (with 10k posts) it's something I'd like to try.
This is NOT going to be easy.
And the end result is that *I* have to holder it as a PO01 first, so it's all on me.... what can newb do???? Will I screw it up and fail? It's cheap fun.
(I also took up coin doctoring to learn, read keets' "coin doctor thread" for my "purple morgan" post. What can newb do?)
1970D (and the 70S) are both 40% silver via a 90% silver outer layers clad over a copper core. This is the same composition as the 65-69 Kennedy coins.
<< <i>You know what? I have a possible PO1 kennedy{ungraded}Can't read the date! but I do see the copper on the reed. All 1970 kennedies are silver, right? >>
if you can't read the date and there are no other diagnostics on the coin to fix a single date to it, then it won't grade PO01.
<< <i>I didn't notice the original post date! WOW. >>
Is the prize going to be "adjusted" for inflation?
The name is LEE!
<< <i>
<< <i>I didn't notice the original post date! WOW. >>
Is the prize going to be "adjusted" for inflation?
only in the sense that inflation factors will be taken into account only after a negative sign is added in front.
<< <i>This is a Todd a/k/a blu62vette a/k/a bluCC Photos set of pictures.
Much thanks to Todd for supplying such great pictures, unfortunately account space restrictions forced me to shrink them.
Here is the victim coin.
I started carrying it last week.
Current close ups coming
The pocket change:
<< <i>
The pocket change:
I will try just a couple of other half dollars then.
it would be hard to tell from even todd's photos, but it appears to have lost a grade. there is a bit of loss in hair detail in the usual place and a bit more flattening of the cheek and jawline in the usual place.
"Everything is on its way to somewhere. Everything." - George Malley, Phenomenon
http://www.americanlegacycoins.com
<< <i>
<< <i>This is a Todd a/k/a blu62vette a/k/a bluCC Photos set of pictures.
Much thanks to Todd for supplying such great pictures, unfortunately account space restrictions forced me to shrink them.
Here is the victim coin.
I started carrying it last week.
You should photograph it every 7 days until it is worn down to PO1...then you coud do a Time Lapse of the coin's demise. That would be cool but it might take a few years. >>
As a buyer: QualityCurrencycom, tychojoe, AurumMiner, Collectorcoins, perfectstrike, ModCrewman, LeeBone, nickel, REALGATOR, MICHAELDIXON, pointfivezero, Walkerguy21D
Trades: georgiacop50
Wow, 14 years later, there's still not a single 1970-D half dollar in PCGS PO-01, but there are some other PO-01s in other dates.
https://www.pcgs.com/pop/detail/kennedy-half-dollar-1964-date/125/0?t=1&p=MS&pn=1
Just put one in my pocket. Will ship in 22 years, 7 months and 19 days!
That's just simply not true, lots of pop one coins dont sell for ten k plus
You're arguing with a 14 year old post.
My Early Large Cents
True, but the poster has logged in as recently as today and the OP as recently as this week.
That, plus there still doesn't exist a coin that was asked for in the OP.
The longevity of our forum membership and topics are some of the great aspects of this forum.
I’m sorry, but I don’t see how a 1970 40% clad half could have circulated naturally to have worn down and end up in a poor-1 grade. The odds are extremely remote especially with all the eagle eyed collectors looking through pocket change. First of all, someone would have to break it out of its mintset packaging and then it is spent for decades until it is barely identifiable. Second, how often does anyone even get a half dollar in change?
I certainly would prefer a nice Unc 1970-D for $10 or whatever they are going for than a coin that is barely identifiable and “worth” $1500!
Vegas?
For those who might be confused, the 1970-D half dollar was only issued in mint sets and never for general circulation. Furthmore it was issued at a time when the the opinions of many were that its 40% content was or would soon have a melt value that exceeded its face value. Therefore getting any of these coins into circulation and having it stay there was just about impossible.
If someone had cut one of these coins out of a mint set in 2004, when the post was first made, and carried it around in their pocket everyday as a pocket piece for the next 14 years they might be getting close to a well worn coin. It would take a lot of jingling.
Once you had done that, you have to get PCGS to grade it PR-01 which is not that easy. After all of that you might get $1,500 if the offer is still open, or if it was serious. All in all I’d say that it would not have been worth the effort.
I think part of the reason for the challenges was that people were saying these were easy to create with tumblers and other means of artificial wear. The challenge was to see if those people could deliver.
From @braddick in the OP:
If it were that easy, there would be more certified PR-01 coins. When you are employing artificial means to duplicate wear, something often goes wrong. The coin might end up too shiny, or it might get an edge mark or depression in the fields. Having lot of wear with virtually no damage is harder to achieve than you might think.
I agree with you, but just today, a member was claiming it was easy to create a PO-01 with a tumbler in this thread:
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/comment/12144325/#Comment_12144325
Of all the excitement and challenges that numismatics offers, taking a 1970-D Half and tumbling it down so that a plastic holder that has to be paid for, can show the number PO-01 has to be at the bottom of the list.
Wouldn't it sort of be like marrying a Victoria Secret model and then daring her to eat until she weighs 600 lbs?
Haven't been here in a decade or so, 'eh? They don't use coins in slots anymore. Haven't forever!
bob
It's a 1970-D Kennedy Half Dollar... so it would be like marrying Roseanne Barr and then daring her to eat until she weighs 600 lbs.
I bought a tumbler a few years ago - lined it with cloth and put some loose cloth in with the coins - threw in a buck or 2 of coins and ran it for a month - they all came out clearly polished and ungradable - not sure how to replicate a natural pocket environment in a tumbler.
Forget a tumbler, that's near the final stage. Grind the coin down to AG first. Then you'll need to tumble it - the correct medium is important as you don't want "shiny." Next, dull the surface down chemically and then finish it off in a pocket. The trick is to make it look natural. Folks have tried to get several coins altered down to PO-1 past me in the last two years. They get them back with nothing but a reject slip.
As with most things, you need to know what a genuine PO-1 coin looks like. I'm sitting on a half dozen genuine PO-1 Morgan and Peace dollars right now. Your local B&M is a good place to find one. Just ask them to save you one before they are shipped off to be melted. Most don't know the silly money they bring.
PS If the guy with the offer is still around, let's hear from you soon.
Insider2 hit the nail on the head. Such a difficult task, yet I'd imagine- not impossible. Right now I have a "Low Ball" Kennedy short set (as PCGS doesn't offer an official low ball Kennedy set some of us simply list them under the regular Kennedy short set and end up dead last within those 100+ or so sets). That Kennedy set is titled, "peacockcoins" if you are curious to see it. I have ALL the coins needed outside of the 1970-D. It is missing as no circulated coins have been "made".
I also am number 4 (and number 15) in the Low Ball Ike dollar set. That IS a set PCGS recongnizes. Now, that is a fun set as most ultra low ball Ikes are single digit (per grade) coins and the hunt is enjoyable. Those sets are also available for viewing as "peacockcoins" and "braddick" (in that order).
peacockcoins
Post the links?
Best, SH
The best method has not been mentioned... a vibratory case cleaner (with the proper medium and speed) will produce the desired result in a reasonable time frame....Cheers, RickO
Thank you Dr. Ricko. Now, I shall research "vibratory case cleaner" on the Internet.
Oops, that's actually not a rock tumbler but that's what I had considered as "tumbled." Works much better and does not put nick's all over the coin (examine a blank planchet which is tumbled).
LOL..........The only reason my friend "Dr Ricko" would know about that is because the coins would all come out real shiny.
Rock Paper Scissors everyone.
Pete
Our friend knows guns.
OK. A little OT, but in the spirit of the post I have to comment this tidbit.
There is a Bar in my area called "Tumble In".
I always thought that was a stupid name.
It should have been called "Tumble Out".
Pete