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grading question: What method do you use?

08HALA2008HALA20 Posts: 3,066 ✭✭✭
Does anyone remember someone mentioning that they grade by subtracting from 70
any hits etc on a coin.

It seemed like a common method of grading if I remember correctly.

Can anyone explain that method more fully??
or know where it is explained.

What method do you use fro grading?

Rookie Joe

image

Comments

  • nOoBiEeEnOoBiEeE Posts: 1,011 ✭✭
    Good question(s).. Just thinking about that today.
  • rainbowroosierainbowroosie Posts: 4,875 ✭✭✭✭
    Place a number on each of a set of stairs....roll the coins off of the top step....whatever number is on the stair where the coin lands is the grade....learned this from Onlyroosies!!!!
    "You keep your 1804 dollar and 1822 half eagle -- give me rainbow roosies in MS68."
    rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
  • 08HALA2008HALA20 Posts: 3,066 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Place a number on each of a set of stairs....roll the coins off of the top step....whatever number is on the stair where the coin lands is the grade....learned this from Onlyroosies!!!! >>



    Would the top step be MS70 and lower as you go down??imageimage
    I will try that with my Peace Nickels.

    Nice link Cameron

    Joe
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,763 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Grading is really subjective, and it varies from series to series. For Morgan dollars not just the number of hits; it's also where they are located. A big hit on Ms. Liberty's cheek is worse that three or four in the field or on the reverse. Black spots, commonly known as "carbon spots" reduce the grade too on what would otherwise be high grade pieces.

    Generally the larger and heavier the coin, the more makes one might expect. Small light coins should generaly be "cleaner" (fewer marks).

    To answer your question there are no hard and fast rules. Experienced graders learn to apply their standards, and if dealers and collectors generally agree with them, they can earn a living doing it.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • 08HALA2008HALA20 Posts: 3,066 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Grading is really subjective, and it varies from series to series. For Morgan dollars not just the number of hits; it's also where they are located. A big hit on Ms. Liberty's cheek is worse that three or four in the field or on the reverse. Black spots, commonly known as "carbon spots" reduce the grade too on what would otherwise be high grade pieces.

    Generally the larger and heavier the coin, the more makes one might expect. Small light coins should generaly be "cleaner" (fewer marks).

    To answer your question there are no hard and fast rules. Experienced graders learn to apply their standards, and if dealers and collectors generally agree with them, they can earn a living doing it. >>



    So if I get this right depending on the series and the type of point detractors you would minus 1 point from a 70. wether it is a carbon spot, hairlines hits etc. So it is important not just to understand the grading system but also the series you are grading---what detracts from that series.

    ??? Joe
  • RussRuss Posts: 48,514 ✭✭✭
    I use the WAG method.

    Russ, NCNE
  • stmanstman Posts: 11,352 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I go by what Russ says. He is the grading gawd of the forum.
    Please... Save The Stories, Just Answer My Questions, And Tell Me How Much!!!!!
  • 08HALA2008HALA20 Posts: 3,066 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I use the WAG method.

    Russ, NCNE >>




    ok Russ, I 'll bite What is the WAG method

    Joe
  • coinguy1coinguy1 Posts: 13,484 ✭✭✭


    << <i>So if I get this right depending on the series and the type of point detractors you would minus 1 point from a 70. wether it is a carbon spot, hairlines hits etc >>

    No Joe, it doesn't work that way or that easily. One imperfection might knock a coin down by a single point but a different flaw could result in an even larger deduction. Still other flaws might not even account for a whole point's deduction.

    The best way to learn to grade is to study and become familiar with a particular series. And, to look at as many examples as you can which have been certified by a reputable grading company. It also helps if you know someone with considerable knowledge who can look at and review the coins with you.
  • MadMartyMadMarty Posts: 16,697 ✭✭✭


    << <i>ok Russ, I 'll bite What is the WAG method >>



    Wild Ass Guess
    It is not exactly cheating, I prefer to consider it creative problem solving!!!

  • FragmentumFragmentum Posts: 174 ✭✭
    ALL omy coins are MS-70 or PF-70.....unless otherwise notedimage
    Collecting ASE's, Disney Dollars, high end for type set and other shiny objects with crayola colors...
  • 08HALA2008HALA20 Posts: 3,066 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>ok Russ, I 'll bite What is the WAG method >>



    Wild Ass Guess >>



    image

    I shoulda known



    image
  • 08HALA2008HALA20 Posts: 3,066 ✭✭✭


    << <i>It also helps if you know someone with considerable knowledge who can look at and review the coins with you. >>



    It is not that easy, here in MA

    Rookie Joe

    But I am learning a bunch here.
  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,263 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Actually its SWAG for Scientific WildAss Guess!!
    We do precision guesswork! LOL
    For myself I use the rhythm metod!
    theknowitalltroll;
  • ColorfulcoinsColorfulcoins Posts: 3,371 ✭✭✭
    I still like the rainbowroosie "stair" method of grading....and if youhave carpet on your stairs, you'd get hairlines I'd imagine....image
    Craig
    If I had it my way, stupidity would be painful!
  • DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    This makes sense to me, and maybe it's worth putting on the table. I look at the coin and decide based on luster and eye-appeal what the highest grade COULD be. Then I deduct for hits. If at first glance the coin looks like the MS67's I've seen, but has a few marks, I'll deduct from MS67. If it has the look of the 67's I've seen but I can't find a flaw, I add points. If at first glance the coin looks like a 65 (a few ticks, average luster, average strike), I start there. I know that sounds goofy, but I guess what I'm getting at is the first impression of the coin goes a long way in establishing the grade. That's what's wrong with the MS70 and deduct approach. The commercial grade of a coin is usually the eye-appeal of the coin plus/minus marks. Circ. grading is more technical and tends to follow the established guidelines for wear, but often ignores luster even though it's still part of the ANA standard. JMO A perfect, mark free coin with a soft strike or impaired luster will not grade 70.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor
  • LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,723 ✭✭✭✭✭
    This thread has been very informative to me.

    Cameron, that was a really great link you posted.

    I now see that some of the lower tier grading companies use the Roosie/Stair method, however they have adjusted it by making every other step the grade that they really want the coin to be, thereby increasing the odds.

    I must say that I have probably used Russ' WAG, or perhaps BAJJERFANS SWAG method more than any other that I have seen so far.

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