SLQ's - MS63FH or MS65?

JxnBoy

Edited because I posted before I was done. Oops.

This is similar to the FSB Merc question last week.

I myself find that SLQ's that have a total lack of definition on the head, e.g. almost every 1926-D, I find that they lack the eye appeal I look for in SLQ's.

Most times, but not with every date/mintmark, the 65 is more expensive. But not in every case.

Either way, I'll the 63FH almost every time over a 'gem' coin. What about you?

David

XpipedreamR

It would depend on the coin, but I would generally take the MS65 coin.

mgoodm3

I would probably prefer high end, non-FH coins. The ones that are almost FH but not enough for the designation. I think for me the shield is more important for eye-appeal than the head.

flaminio

I'd split the difference and shop for a 64FH.

dorkkarl

if strike is the primary concern, i wouldn't rely on the "fh" designation. sooo many "fh" coins are otherwise poorly struck - even for well-struck dates, such as 1930. look for coins that are well struck over all, including the shield.

K S

Dave99B

I agree. 63FH!

BillJones

The first place I look on a so-called Mint State SLQ is the knee. If it's rubbed, the coin is not really Mint State and should not be in anything higher than a MS-62 holder. The second place I look is the head. If there is a big mark on that, I pass on the coin right away. Why? Because everyone looks at the head, usually with a 10X. If the head is banged up, the coin will be a "hard sell."

BTW I've seen a number of near full head coins that get grades like MS-66 as a sort of consolation prize. I've seen this most often with NGC slabs.

Cam40

I think strike is all important for most coins IMO. I might opt for a coin with washed out luster but fully struck over a `white` coin with flat or weak details. Thats just me though.

Elcontador

The diff between a 3 & 5 S/B contact marks & eye appeal, period. I've seen plenty of 5s & 6s missing detail from the inner shield and 3 or 4 rivulets below the sash. Have even seen 7s w/o full inner shields & rivulets. Only the best struck coins will give you complete vertical detail on the inner shield.

Best struck dates are 17P Type I, early P dates, ie., 1918-20P, and the 30P.

Merc

I would take a MS63 FH for one of the tough dates in FH like the 1926-D. For more common FH's like the 1930, I'd take the MS65. BUt I insist that it is a true full head and just doen'st say FH on the holder. I've seen some 90% heads in FH holders by the top 2 grading companies.

Jaywalker

In the real world, it depends on what's available. I have bought several MS65s without FH and several lesser MS with FHs. My 1918-P is a PCGS 62FH and looks really nice. So I basically buy whatever has good eye appeal and a decent price.

But to answer your question, I would probably take the MS65 as long as it had a decent head to the naked eye.

jdimmick

I prefer SLQ to have overall solid striking details, especially in the central shield area as well as the head vs a technical FH designated coin with somewhat flatter overall strike.

Stuart

MS-63 Full Head for me, although I'm not a SLQ collector. But on principle I am not a buyer of MS-65 or above "Investment Grade" coins because I personally think that there is too much price disparity between "Choice" and "Gem" Uncirculated Grades.

I subscribe to the theory of the most Economic Grade. A Morgan example would be high end MS-64 for $40 vs. MS-65 for $85. I've got lots of MS-63's & MS-64's but only a handful of certified MS-65's. I've also got a few common raw Morgans that may make MS-67/68

And as I mentioned in a recent thread I feel that too much emphasis is placed on High Certified Grade certified coins, while I prefer to select High Quality blue chip coins with strong eye appeal in more affordable cost-effective lower grades.

I feel that today's coin market is being driven up to frothy high levels by those who have a very High Dollars:Sense Ratio

khayse

I am not an expert on the series. As such finding one with a full head doesn't thrill me (and I take luster over
strike) so I would usually take the 65.

-KHayse

MFH

If you start this series, you will find that alot of dates have a strong strike, and just as many have a weak strike.
The price for the FH's in the dates that have strong strikes are obviously more money than non FH's, but the percentage of increase is not nearly as high as the weaker struck dates that have a full head.

The most notorious dates with weak heads are the 18-S, 19-D, 19-S, 26-D, 26-S, 27-S (that's an understatement),
the 28-D and the 29-D. The rest have as a rule have decently struck heads ( with the major exception of 1916, as its a type unto its own).

Which coin to collect: MS63FH or MS65... its a tough choice, look for a decently struck head, strong inner shield with vertical lines -- horizontal lines are virtually nonexistant.

Always remember, collect the best you can afford. I have put together more sets than I care to remember, starting with VF-XF when I was a teenager, graduating to AU/BU non full heads, then to AU FH's, then to MS 63 with strong strikes, then to MS 65 & 66's with strong stikes, then to MS 64FH to 66FH's. I wish I were more astute when I was a teenager and picked out choice MS coins with as close to FH's as I could find.

Its a tough call, I wish I could collect as many as I could, it rips me up to sell any of these duplicate coins, its alot like
the movie "Sophie's Choice"... how can you choose ???

Investment wise, however, go with the FH. They are far rarer than the higher grade coins, regardless of what anyone else tells you. Take it from one whose been bent over the proverbial barrel more than I care to discuss.

JxnBoy

Great replies, all. I enjoy the different perspectives that collectors have, but I just can't seem to enjoy the coin as much with a flat head.

Good points, Dork Karl, though, on the overall strike, since a really nicely struck coin should have a well defined inner shield (some SLQ-heads call it an escutcheon) and well struck rivets on the large shield.

Bob, I agree that I'd rather have a 64FH than a 65, but take 20-s for example. 63FH is about $1000, 65 is about a $1000, 64FH is 10,000. I'm going to be saving a loooooooong time to split the difference there.

BillJones, excellent advice to look at the knee. I normally start by looking at the armor on the 'covered' breast, as that seems to be a high wear point as well. Sometimes looking at the shield will fool you, because on a weak strike it was never full to begin with.

Stuart - I'm with you.

And MFH, excellent points, all. I can tell you know the series well, and how difficult it is to put a nicely matched set together.

Again, thanks to everyone, I learned a lot here.

David