Home U.S. Coin Forum

Can we talk about WLH's

I want so badly to build a great set. Can we discuss the ins and outs of this type. What to look for and to avoid. I know it's a very popular series. I'd love to see some images of your coins to demonstrate what it is that you might be trying to elaborate about a particular year and mint.
The more knowledge the better. I'm going to order a book if someone could recommend one I would appreciate it very much.
Thank you

Comments

  • ShaunBC5ShaunBC5 Posts: 1,631 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 8, 2023 5:29PM

    Don’t forget about budget. That’s what drives the disparity in grade that @TomB was talking about.
    What makes a set “great” to you? Matching grade/look/luster? Matching cost/value? Outstanding “keys” or a couple of common date but super high grade pieces? Something else, completely?

  • BuffaloIronTailBuffaloIronTail Posts: 7,405 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The Fox book, IMHOP, is THEE BOOK to get. The facts and stories alone make it a must have.

    A mid-grade set F/VF would look great. I'll still cost you, but you won't have to live in Beverly Hills to complete it.

    Pete

    "I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
  • Steven59Steven59 Posts: 8,290 ✭✭✭✭✭

    When you say "Great set" - do you mean MS or just matched circulated condition coins? A set of Walkers from G04 to XF is very easily doable and as long as the conditions are compatible/similar, makes a very nice and affordable set.

    "When they can't find anything wrong with you, they create it!"

  • dsessomdsessom Posts: 2,212 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The Walking Liberty half is considered by many, including myself, to be the most beautiful US coin design. I only own 2 graded examples, and no raw. I would love to own more eventually. The short set is where you want to start, and choose a grade level that you are comfortable with financially. Most short sets I have seen are BU/MS sets, but they really don't have to be. It might actually be more of a challenge to do an "Everyman" short set, in AU. It will take time to learn the nuances of the series, just like any other series. Good luck in your hunt, and most importantly, have fun!

  • My goal is to build a short set of MS 65 or better, however, the key for me will be all about finding the best and sharpest strike. I realize it's not an easy thing to do but it can be done. As already stated it takes patience and time. I may buy a few early coins along the way if the opportunity for a good buy presents itself and my budget allows. I am not going into hawk to buy coins. I'm a pretty good saver and I currently have a decent purse by my standards to buy some decent coins. I'm looking everyday. I purchased a beautiful NGC 67 the other day for a very fair price. I'll post pictures on it when I get it out from my safe over the weekend.
    One other thing I have a weakness for is beautifully toned walkers. I currently have one but I would like to own several more. If you happen to have one and the price isn't to bad let me know I mat be interested.
    Thank you for all the responses. I am now going to look for the Fox book.
    It would be cool to see some images of difficult to locate coins with nice strikes. Tom your 1916D is a real gem. It appears to have everything I like about them. All nice images. Thank you for posting so far.
    I just feel compelled to show my toned coin. It may not be for everyone but I haven't seen another like it yet. I hope I do and it's for sale!

  • lilolmelilolme Posts: 2,451 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Here is some information on toning. They are about the same information but a little different organization. While Morgans are used some of the information is applicable.

    http://www.jhonecash.com/coins/tonedmorgans.asp#ntvsat

    https://www.monstertonedmorgans.com/all-about-toned-morgans

    https://youtube.com/watch?v=2YNufnS_kf4 - Mama I'm coming home ...................................................................................................................................................................... RLJ 1958 - 2023

  • ElmerFusterpuckElmerFusterpuck Posts: 4,627 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 8, 2023 9:11PM

    The Walkers are a fun set to build. I have a complete short set (1941-47) in MS-66 or better. Like someone has already said, the early dates are a challenge in nice circulated condition.

    Need just one more here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ThPpSL7hTdFnqiaPA

  • JJMJJM Posts: 7,980 ✭✭✭✭✭

    👍BST's erickso1,cone10,MICHAELDIXON,TennesseeDave,p8nt,jmdm1194,RWW,robkool,Ahrensdad,Timbuk3,Downtown1974,bigjpst,mustanggt,Yorkshireman,idratherbgardening,SurfinxHI,derryb,masscrew,Walkerguy21D,MJ1927,sniocsu,Coll3tor,doubleeagle07,luciobar1980,PerryHall,SNMAM,mbcoin,liefgold,keyman64,maprince230,TorinoCobra71,RB1026,Weiss,LukeMarshall,Wingsrule,Silveryfire, pointfivezero,IKE1964,AL410, Tdec1000, AnkurJ,guitarwes,Type2,Bp777,jfoot113,JWP,mattniss,dantheman984,jclovescoins,Collectorcoins,Weather11am,Namvet69,kansasman,Bruce7789,ADG,Larrob37
  • AdamLAdamL Posts: 165 ✭✭✭

    My sets are all over the place. I have some slabbed, some raw and duplicates of most. Still missing 4 dates though. I've spent countless hours looking at Walkers and shopping for them.
    While the short set is relatively easy, and fun, you will see many of each date in any given mint state grade. Searching for nice for the grade coins with good strikes will require a little more patience. But still pretty easy.
    Recently I've been a lot more focused on earlier dates. And although I can't afford most of them in flashy MS grades, they are more challenging than the 1940's dates. I've found the challenge to make it a lot more fun.
    Nothing wrong with starting with the short set and seeing where you want to go from there though.

  • AlanSkiAlanSki Posts: 1,816 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have about 30 soapbox anacs to get rid of. Lol here’s one.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 1,649 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Collecting and Investing Strategies for Walking Liberty Half Dollars (Strategy Guide Series) by Jeff Ambio is also worthwhile.

    A great book for those who want to learn about the striking, luster, surfaces, toning and eye appeal of each of the 65 business strike and seven proof coins.

    It's really written for the armchair collector who dreams about acquiring a world class collection over time as well as the serious investor. The book is not for someone who just wants to put together a nice collection of circulated half dollars. From an investment standpoint, he does not recommend collecting coins that have been circulated!

    Today, according to the PCGS price guide, a complete 65 coin date and mint set will cost at least $240,000 in Mint State 64 and $750,000 in MS65! Less expensive alternatives are reducing the scope of the collection down to partial sets and type sets. A reasonable alternative, he suggests, is spending upwards of $50,000 for one Walking Liberty Half Dollar in grade MS 64 for each of the 25 years the series was minted.

  • d9lowed9lowe Posts: 304 ✭✭✭✭

    I just completed a short set. All coins are MS65 or better and all bright white. Felt good to complete. It would be a good place to start for sure!

  • jesbrokenjesbroken Posts: 9,244 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I love walkers. One of the most beautiful coins of the 20th century. Good luck, just look over all the years you plan to collect and your grade level requirements. Read about each year's issues/problems and be ready when your chance comes.
    Jim









    When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln

    Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Watchtower... The WLH is a beautiful coin, certainly one of America's best - it not the best. I have always loved this coin, and it circulated freely when I was a kid with a paper route. I have never built a set, but I do have a few... mostly birth year specimens. Good luck with your project. Cheers, RickO

  • Jim those are all very nice coins. Just the type I am looking for.

  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,137 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Watchtower said:
    Jim those are all very nice coins. Just the type I am looking for.

    And I know where at least several of them came from….

    Successful BST transactions with 170 members. Recent: Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,137 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @291fifth said:
    Try putting together a nice circulated set of 1916 through 1933 dates and mintmarks. Don't bother with the later dates (too common). Pick a circulated grade that you think you can afford and try to put a matched set together. It will be a difficult task. The 1916 through 1933 coins saw very heavy circulation so finding nice circulated ones is a challenge.

    I remember bemoaning the availability of these back in the '80's, with some of the old timers.
    They laughed and said they couldn't even find them back in the '60's, they just aren't around.

    Successful BST transactions with 170 members. Recent: Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • CoinHoarderCoinHoarder Posts: 2,455 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have been buying Walkers since the 1960s. According to my records below, I completed my circulated set back in 1989.

    It is still one of my favorite designs, and I still acquire them when picking though "junk" silver. I have never been one to spend large amounts of money on coins. My coins grade from AG03, to I believe MS64.

    I do not keep them in folders. They are in tubes, 2X2s and slabs.

    If you are on a budget like me, I would consider collecting a set of problem free as possible, nice for the grade, circulated Walkers.

    Below is one example of the look that I like in circulated Walkers.

    Here is the list of my Walkers:

  • erscoloerscolo Posts: 481 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The Walking Liberty Half Dollar is a beautiful coin. I have the 1938 through 1941 issues in PGGS holders, and I have raw examples of the 1940 through 1947 issues. All are mint state coins, choice to gem for the raw coins and mint state 64 to 66 for the graded coins. Going back earlier in time is cost prohibitive in these grades, though I do have nice raw about uncirculated coins from Philadelphia for 1935, 1936 and 1937.

  • humanssuckhumanssuck Posts: 316 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Ive done several complete sets of circulated walkers in albums, a slabbed set of the 1933-1947 in 64, and am currently working on a set of the proofs.

    Personally I enjoy the proofs most. Other than the 1936 they are readily available and you can find very attractive ones in the PR64/65 range. They are more expensive than the short set business strike walkers, but tere's only seven of them, so its not too bad a set to do.

  • FrankHFrankH Posts: 773 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Just a few months ago some site advised proof Walkers.
    Key is finding them without chatter on the plain field.

    In the short time since the reco. I see them up about a hundred bucks.
    They also reco'ed proof Merc dimes.

    There's some logic to both. New collectors like the popular designs.

  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @watchtower while you are still new to the series I’d recommend buying toned coins only if they’ve already been to pcgs or ngc. There are MANY artificially toned coins outside of holders that can be very deceiving.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 8,952 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 9, 2023 11:20AM

    @DisneyFan it’s funny that you mention the Ambio book. It was published back in 2008 and I purchased mine in 2009, at a major show. That was the year that I bought my 1920 D 64 and decided to really commit to and go for completing a high-end registry set that I had casually started back in 2005. They were dream coins to me, back then, but the book was very interesting. I managed to complete my whole set in mostly 64 or better. My early dates are mostly 64 but my mid to late dates range from 65 to 67. I have four 63s and a lone 62, in the early years (1916-1933).

    When I bought the Ambio book; I was in my early 40s. I remember thinking that, if I start now, I won’t finish until I’m at least 50 and I’ll be really OLD! Lololol I just now finished my set at the end of 2021! Lol Ahh yes, to be younger again….I found a 21S in XF 45 that was really, really high end for the grade. I couldn’t buy it fast enough, as they are soo scarce in this condition, especially, the nice ones.

    When I started looking at walkers, the 21S in 65 was about $50,000, now, you’d be lucky to get a 63 for that! Someday, I may upgrade my 21S to some level of mint state but, for now, I’m really happy with it, as it stands, and I’m really enjoying collecting in other areas and different series directions.

    “I may not believe in myself but I believe in what I’m doing” ~Jimmy Page~

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947)

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • 124Spider124Spider Posts: 843 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It's a great set!

    But, before starting, set your goals (understand that you may "expand" them later), in terms of years, mint marks and condition.

    1916 through 1928 are (almost) all VERY expensive in high grades (especially the 1921s and, to a lesser extent, 1919s). Given that a large part of the charm of these coins (to me, at least) is their beauty, you may (or may not) be charmed by having to settle for lower-grade versions of so many years.

    As others have said, you can define "short set" from the later years, when all examples are relatively affordable. Or you can go for it, getting the best example of all 65 coins that you can afford.

    I started collecting a full set, mostly in quite-circulated condition. Then I tasted the forbidden fruit, getting the later years in uncirculated grades. And they're just beautiful. The result was that I became dissatisfied with the lower grade, earlier coins, and I have spent a lot of time, money and energy getting the best examples I can afford (not always in high grades; my 1921s are various VF grades, and a lot of the other expensive ones are XF grades).

    But I love the set, and have no regrets.

    Mark

  • Walkerguy21DWalkerguy21D Posts: 11,137 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 9, 2023 2:38PM

    Smokin’ coins, @Walkerfan

    Successful BST transactions with 170 members. Recent: Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug
  • coastaljerseyguycoastaljerseyguy Posts: 1,243 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Walkerfan,

    Awesome coins, can only dream. How come the 21S is the cheapie below XF then explodes AU and above. Figure that is why it is not graded like your P & D above.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 8,952 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 9, 2023 2:00PM

    @coastaljerseyguy said:
    Walkerfan,

    Awesome coins, can only dream. How come the 21S is the cheapie below XF then explodes AU and above. Figure that is why it is not graded like your P & D above.

    The P and D coins are still very pricey at the gem and near gem level. Even more so than an AU 1921S. A lot of the AU and mint state ‘21S coins that I looked at had a lot of bag marks and a very poor strike. Many were also processed, which I can’t stand. I go for a good strike and originality above all else. I may upgrade to AU or MS ‘21-S, if the right coin comes along. A ‘21S is still more expensive in XF than the other two are in XF.

    “I may not believe in myself but I believe in what I’m doing” ~Jimmy Page~

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947)

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • coastaljerseyguycoastaljerseyguy Posts: 1,243 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Walkerfan I was looking at an old GS (10+years) when you could get single back issues for around $5, lol. You are correct the S price jumped in XF. It jumped 700% from VF while the P & D was around 200% increase.

    In AU, the P bid was $2000, the D $2,450 and the S $6,300. In MS 63 the P was $6,500, the D $11,500, and the S $21,400. Since all had low mintage but the S = to the P&D combined, did most of the S mintage get circulate or get melted.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 8,952 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 9, 2023 2:23PM

    @coastaljerseyguy said:
    @Walkerfan I was looking at an old GS (10+years) when you could get single back issues for around $5, lol. You are correct the S price jumped in XF. It jumped 700% from VF while the P & D was around 200% increase.

    In AU, the P bid was $2000, the D $2,450 and the S $6,300. In MS 63 the P was $6,500, the D $11,500, and the S $21,400. Since all had low mintage but the S = to the P&D combined, did most of the S mintage get circulate or get melted.

    Yes

    “I may not believe in myself but I believe in what I’m doing” ~Jimmy Page~

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947)

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • Now that's the good stuff.I really appreciate seeing these coins. It's very inspiring.
    I did some major damage to my wallet today.
    That is, at my level. I am starting with a short set for sure.
    Things are a little scattered right now but I'm in no rush.
    I sold off all of the Morgan's I had to fatten up my purse for some new walkers. I only kept the PL Morgans because I like them.
    I did buy a few WLH's today.
    I intend to purchase some more but I am being fussy about it. Not just the numbers but the coin in the slab. I'm really particular about what I call the bullseye on the obverse.
    What I really need now is a few sources to purchase them.
    I have one great dealer to buy from. It would be nice to know several. If anyone cares to send me a PM with a dealer or two that would be helpful. I don't expect it because it's somewhat competitive. If you want to share its welcomed.
    I just want to mention one more thing about toned coins. I don't look for them intentionally. The one I have currently is beautiful and definitely not AT. I think I have a feel for the AT coins. Truthfully I don't see alot of WLH that are toned. Yet anyway.
    BTW the Fox book is on the way!

  • bagofnickelsbagofnickels Posts: 349 ✭✭✭✭

    Definitely read the book by Bruce Fox. Look at lots and lots of coins and determine what you want out of your set. They're beautiful coins and for myself I just buy the coins I like. Very few of the coins I see on the market do I actually like or find multiple qualities I find desirable. So when I come across one that checks all my boxes I tend to pick them up. I like coins with an above average strike and prefer relatively original looking coins. Toned walkers are one of my favorites but occasionally a blast white coin with a strong strike and great luster comes along. So for me variety is the way.

    Late date sets either 33-47 or 41-47 are a good starting point in my opinion. Albums are also good.

    This 34 S is my latest pick up. The only reason I blurred the cert # is I may do a GTG in a week or so.

  • AdamLAdamL Posts: 165 ✭✭✭

    Some of the mid-1930's S & D Walkers can be a challenge in mint state.
    Here's my 1934-S in MS61 with a green bean. I think it should have gotten a gold, but I'm biased.

  • jesbrokenjesbroken Posts: 9,244 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Walkerguy21D said:

    @Watchtower said:
    Jim those are all very nice coins. Just the type I am looking for.

    And I know where at least several of them came from….

    Yes, I'm sure you know exactly where the 37, 39d and 40 came from. Getting ready to send the last in to pcgs this weekend, the 37. May send a 37d with it. So all know, Greg sold me the last 3 coins and I'm tickled to have them in my collection. He won't sell me any more. lol
    Jim


    When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln

    Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
  • bagofnickelsbagofnickels Posts: 349 ✭✭✭✭

    @AdamL said:
    Some of the mid-1930's S & D Walkers can be a challenge in mint state.
    Here's my 1934-S in MS61 with a green bean. I think it should have gotten a gold, but I'm biased.

    Sure looks better than 61 to me.

  • VasantiVasanti Posts: 448 ✭✭✭✭

  • SoCalBigMarkSoCalBigMark Posts: 2,786 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I want to see a proof with a frosted sun, got one?

    Picked up this short set from the bidboard at CoinDepot back in the cat piss days, still in the black cardboard box...

Leave a Comment

BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list
Emoji
Image
Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights
Drop image/file