@JoeLewis said:
Are you sure that the coins in each slot are indeed the correct date and mint mark? If so, some of the keys alone are worth what you paid.
Yep, I made sure they were all correct before buying… the LCS I bought it from makes these sets and they made this one specifically from very low grade and problem coins… the key dates are actually the better condition ones.
That is likely close to what it's worth. Cull buffalo nickels (ones that are very worn - dates may be barely visible) are worth about 50 cents each. However, as Joe pointed out, if you have a key date in there, it would be worth more. As long as you are happy with it, that's all that counts. I buy random stuff once in a while, and most of it isn't worth much, like sample slabs, rolls of IKE dollars, bags of cull V nickels, etc. Just have fun.
Best regards, Dwayne F. Sessom Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
@dsessom said:
That is likely close to what it's worth. Cull buffalo nickels (ones that are very worn - dates may be barely visible) are worth about 50 cents each. However, as Joe pointed out, if you have a key date in there, it would be worth more. As long as you are happy with it, that's all that counts. I buy random stuff once in a while, and most of it isn't worth much, like sample slabs, rolls of IKE dollars, bags of cull V nickels, etc. Just have fun.
I have all of the key dates… I believe they may be worth more than what I paid looking at individual sold eBay auctions… they look exactly the same and are selling for about what the book is worth… EACH
If the 13-S T2 is actually a 13-S T2... that's a solid win. 14-D is another nice key, albeit it's only a key in lower grades (which this set is).
While not all culls per se, the condition of most of the mintmarked teens/twenties doesn't exactly impress me. You'll probably score better deals in your lifetime if you go looking for them.
"You can't get just one gun." "You can't get just one tattoo." "You can't get just one 1796 Draped Bust Large Cent."
Even in low grade your T2 '13D&S, '14D and '21S should recoup your expenditure, assuming they're not damaged or so low grade the date and mint marks aren't visible.
Check the legs on the reverse of your '36D and '37D. Check the obverse of the '16 and '35 for doubling. Check the date on your '18 for the 8/7.
I'm not sure I'd call it the deal of a lifetime but if you hit on any of those varieties you will certainly come out in good shape.
I think that is a significant score. Good going! It's fun to see a circulated set complete.
I'd suggest getting a DANSCO album and placing your collection in it, as then you can see both sides
of the coins and not worry about one popping out and losing it.
I like it! I'm a completed set kinda guy. Yes, get a Whitman or Dansco album. Dump that folder! You can also try and upgrade the ones you can along the way.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
@EZV .... the way I'm reading the responses is that it is possibly a very decent deal. It's just that you will hopefully go on to bigger and better deals in the future.
@JBK said: @EZV .... the way I'm reading the responses is that it is possibly a very decent deal. It's just that you will hopefully go on to bigger and better deals in the future.
I mean, it was a pretty good deal, so I’m happy with it. It’s not like I got ripped off, and it’s not like there were any BIG DEALS to get out of it… I like buffs and I like what I got
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
A solid AG/G yes. That one looks like it was acid dipped. But my point was not the valuation, it was your $35 price. No coin store would sell a whole set for $35 if there's one coin with $35 or more.
Maybe not 'the deal of a lifetime' and I don't know alot about buffalo nickels, but I would be pretty happy too. The key is you said you "like buffs and like what you got" and you are enthusiastic about it. I'm happy for you.
@Omegaraptor said:
I don't think the coin has been acid dipped, but it may have been cleaned.
It's hard to tell from the photos. I say that based on the porosity visible in the one photo and the dark spots near the devices. If you've ever played around with corroded nickels, you see that happen if you dip a corrode ("rusty") nickel in acid.
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
A solid AG/G yes. That one looks like it was acid dipped. But my point was not the valuation, it was your $35 price. No coin store would sell a whole set for $35 if there's one coin with $35 or more.
Well, you say that, but this one… has most definitely been damaged and still sold for $143
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
A solid AG/G yes. That one looks like it was acid dipped. But my point was not the valuation, it was your $35 price. No coin store would sell a whole set for $35 if there's one coin with $35 or more.
Well, you say that, but this one… has most definitely been damaged and still sold for $143
@MasonG said:
How much do you want it to be worth?
Well, I found this one for that bid up to $300, and if everyone is saying that the damage on these coins takes half the value off, then I’d hope it’s worth at least $150
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
A solid AG/G yes. That one looks like it was acid dipped. But my point was not the valuation, it was your $35 price. No coin store would sell a whole set for $35 if there's one coin with $35 or more.
Well, you say that, but this one… has most definitely been damaged and still sold for $143
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
A solid AG/G yes. That one looks like it was acid dipped. But my point was not the valuation, it was your $35 price. No coin store would sell a whole set for $35 if there's one coin with $35 or more.
Well, you say that, but this one… has most definitely been damaged and still sold for $143
@jmlanzaf said:
You asked for opinions, then you argue with them and cherry pick a single ebay sale to refute the opinion that you solicited.
Let me help you out, forget everything I said:
THAT IS THE DEAL OF A LIFETIME!!! That one coin must be worth $150!!!!!
And here I thought you were the kind one. No, I did not “cherry” pick. In fact, when I searched up this specific coin, mine was the first listing that popped up. I’m thinking you were the one who cherry picked. I get called the child, and yet when we were having a simple disagreements, you come at me aggressively. Interesting… and how much do you want to bet someone is going to pick apart this comment and defend you for it?
@EZV said:
Anyways, I’m done here, screw those who were douchebags, and thank you to those who were actually kind and helpful.
That comment is perfect representation of your attitude.
“I’m only here for you all to serve ME and give ME information about my coins and what they’re worth, however I have no intention of helping anyone else here or contributing to the forum in any positive manner”
You reap what you sow, both here on the forum, and in all other aspects of life.
Coin valuation is very subjective. One day a coin can auction for $30 and another day it can go for $150. As was stated, the only true way is to try to sell it for what you want and see if anyone bites. Or do an auction and hope you catch the eyeballs of multiple interested parties. No one was being rude but the sarcasm came out when you tried to rebut each person's attempt to put a rough value on it...
If you don't want opinions don't ask. If you do ask just say thank you and move on.
@jmlanzaf said:
You asked for opinions, then you argue with them and cherry pick a single ebay sale to refute the opinion that you solicited.
Let me help you out, forget everything I said:
THAT IS THE DEAL OF A LIFETIME!!! That one coin must be worth $150!!!!!
And here I thought you were the kind one. No, I did not “cherry” pick. In fact, when I searched up this specific coin, mine was the first listing that popped up. I’m thinking you were the one who cherry picked. I get called the child, and yet when we were having a simple disagreements, you come at me aggressively. Interesting… and how much do you want to bet someone is going to pick apart this comment and defend you for it?
I offered an opinion and explained the rationale for it. I'm neither kind nor unkind. But there only so much arguing I want to do. You've already decided on the answer, SH the only reason to ask the question is to get agreement not opinions. And, frankly, the "deal of a lifetime" and "$1.80" nature of the posts are clearly looking to brag about the deal, which is fine. But i don't know what you want people to say. There's nothing "aggressively coming at you". I simply was tired of trying to justify my value assessment.
Suggest getting that coin in a cheap slab such as ANACS or ICG and then sell it on eBay. The slab will increase the value since in its current raw state most people will assume it's a problem coin.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Thanks for sharing your experience, the discussion has been illuminating. I only hope that if this is your deal of a lifetime, that you're still young and have many more that are even better come your way.
@JimTyler said:
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
Very suspicious response. There are dealers who prey on the unknowledgeable sellers but they do not become Robin Hood’s when they sell, they prey in both directions.
Comments
What does a set of culls normally sell at?
Are you sure that the coins in each slot are indeed the correct date and mint mark? If so, some of the keys alone are worth what you paid.
US and British coin collector, and creator of The Ultimate Chuck E. Cheese's and Showbiz Pizza Place Token & Ticket Guide
Yep, I made sure they were all correct before buying… the LCS I bought it from makes these sets and they made this one specifically from very low grade and problem coins… the key dates are actually the better condition ones.
Nvm
The thread title sets readers up for both high expectations and a potential letdown. However, it’s what you think that counts.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
That is likely close to what it's worth. Cull buffalo nickels (ones that are very worn - dates may be barely visible) are worth about 50 cents each. However, as Joe pointed out, if you have a key date in there, it would be worth more. As long as you are happy with it, that's all that counts. I buy random stuff once in a while, and most of it isn't worth much, like sample slabs, rolls of IKE dollars, bags of cull V nickels, etc. Just have fun.
Dwayne F. Sessom
Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
I hope that is not the deal of your lifetime, but an interesting pickup.
I have all of the key dates… I believe they may be worth more than what I paid looking at individual sold eBay auctions… they look exactly the same and are selling for about what the book is worth… EACH
If the 13-S T2 is actually a 13-S T2... that's a solid win. 14-D is another nice key, albeit it's only a key in lower grades (which this set is).
While not all culls per se, the condition of most of the mintmarked teens/twenties doesn't exactly impress me. You'll probably score better deals in your lifetime if you go looking for them.
"You can't get just one gun." "You can't get just one tattoo." "You can't get just one 1796 Draped Bust Large Cent."
Even in low grade your T2 '13D&S, '14D and '21S should recoup your expenditure, assuming they're not damaged or so low grade the date and mint marks aren't visible.
Check the legs on the reverse of your '36D and '37D. Check the obverse of the '16 and '35 for doubling. Check the date on your '18 for the 8/7.
I'm not sure I'd call it the deal of a lifetime but if you hit on any of those varieties you will certainly come out in good shape.
I think that is a significant score. Good going! It's fun to see a circulated set complete.
I'd suggest getting a DANSCO album and placing your collection in it, as then you can see both sides
of the coins and not worry about one popping out and losing it.
peacockcoins
I like it! I'm a completed set kinda guy. Yes, get a Whitman or Dansco album. Dump that folder! You can also try and upgrade the ones you can along the way.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
I want to see the back of the 13-S Type 2. It must also be a cull to be in that set.
Wish granted… the date is VERY difficult to see except under the right lighting conditions, but it is in fact a 1913-S
@EZV .... the way I'm reading the responses is that it is possibly a very decent deal. It's just that you will hopefully go on to bigger and better deals in the future.
I mean, it was a pretty good deal, so I’m happy with it. It’s not like I got ripped off, and it’s not like there were any BIG DEALS to get out of it… I like buffs and I like what I got
Hard to believe (not saying I don’t believe you) that a coin shop that pays rent and presumably knows what they’re doing sold that set for 35 bucks. That 13-s t2 is worth $100 + (if real)
Edit just checked prices$100+ probably a bit optimistic but close to that.
Wellllll… there’s a catch…. They buy coins for ripoff prices… they basically prey on the not very knowledgeable, or the desperate for money, but it works in my favor, so I get coins for VERY cheap
They could still easily sell the 13-S on ebay for $35 and get $30 for the set with a hole in it.
Does that 13-S have an acid etched date?
Not that I can tell… here’s a photo, what do you think?
$35 seems too low for a 13-S I feel… I was looking at eBay sold auctions and similar ones are selling for $100-$150(ish)
(https://us.v-cdn.net/6027503/uploads/editor/ij/4unlfx6ekbcc.png"")
I can't really tell, something looks funny about the entire obverse to me.
But the set is still an excellent pick-up.
A solid AG/G yes. That one looks like it was acid dipped. But my point was not the valuation, it was your $35 price. No coin store would sell a whole set for $35 if there's one coin with $35 or more.
Based on the posted image, that was my first thought.
I don't think the coin has been acid dipped, but it may have been cleaned.
"You can't get just one gun." "You can't get just one tattoo." "You can't get just one 1796 Draped Bust Large Cent."
Maybe not 'the deal of a lifetime' and I don't know alot about buffalo nickels, but I would be pretty happy too. The key is you said you "like buffs and like what you got" and you are enthusiastic about it. I'm happy for you.
It's hard to tell from the photos. I say that based on the porosity visible in the one photo and the dark spots near the devices. If you've ever played around with corroded nickels, you see that happen if you dip a corrode ("rusty") nickel in acid.
Well, you say that, but this one… has most definitely been damaged and still sold for $143
How much do you want it to be worth?
And this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204191307177?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=B3_2U9jLSpi&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=I7BWTu72SVS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Well, I found this one for that bid up to $300, and if everyone is saying that the damage on these coins takes half the value off, then I’d hope it’s worth at least $150
Put it up on EBay on a long auction with some good photos and the market will determine its worth.
And, there will be your answer.
Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014
You asked for opinions, then you argue with them and cherry pick a single ebay sale to refute the opinion that you solicited.
Let me help you out, forget everything I said:
THAT IS THE DEAL OF A LIFETIME!!! That one coin must be worth $150!!!!!
So basically it could be worth anywhere from $30-$150… the only way to truly know is to let people bid it up
As i said, it is hard to value coins in that grade range. So, pretty much. But I've never gotten $150 for a type 2 in that condition.
And here I thought you were the kind one. No, I did not “cherry” pick. In fact, when I searched up this specific coin, mine was the first listing that popped up. I’m thinking you were the one who cherry picked. I get called the child, and yet when we were having a simple disagreements, you come at me aggressively. Interesting… and how much do you want to bet someone is going to pick apart this comment and defend you for it?
That comment is perfect representation of your attitude.
“I’m only here for you all to serve ME and give ME information about my coins and what they’re worth, however I have no intention of helping anyone else here or contributing to the forum in any positive manner”
You reap what you sow, both here on the forum, and in all other aspects of life.
Founder- Peak Rarities
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Always
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
It appears Elvis has left the building.
Someone is speedrunning a ban here.
Coin Photographer.
Coin valuation is very subjective. One day a coin can auction for $30 and another day it can go for $150. As was stated, the only true way is to try to sell it for what you want and see if anyone bites. Or do an auction and hope you catch the eyeballs of multiple interested parties. No one was being rude but the sarcasm came out when you tried to rebut each person's attempt to put a rough value on it...
If you don't want opinions don't ask. If you do ask just say thank you and move on.
https://www.the4thcoin.com
https://www.ebay.com/str/thefourthcoin
I’m more of a douchenozzle so I’m not offended.
I offered an opinion and explained the rationale for it. I'm neither kind nor unkind. But there only so much arguing I want to do. You've already decided on the answer, SH the only reason to ask the question is to get agreement not opinions. And, frankly, the "deal of a lifetime" and "$1.80" nature of the posts are clearly looking to brag about the deal, which is fine. But i don't know what you want people to say. There's nothing "aggressively coming at you". I simply was tired of trying to justify my value assessment.
Suggest getting that coin in a cheap slab such as ANACS or ICG and then sell it on eBay. The slab will increase the value since in its current raw state most people will assume it's a problem coin.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Thanks for sharing your experience, the discussion has been illuminating. I only hope that if this is your deal of a lifetime, that you're still young and have many more that are even better come your way.
Very suspicious response. There are dealers who prey on the unknowledgeable sellers but they do not become Robin Hood’s when they sell, they prey in both directions.