Opinions Sought...Re Walkers

RichR

I currently have roughly 80% of the Walker set...all slabbed in 64/65.

Of course the missing 20% are many of the earlier dates.

Because I definitely can't afford those coins slabbed in MS (or even AU for most of them)...what grade(s) would you seek to achieve a somewhat "balanced" look for the set?

Any opinions appreciated.

Connecticoin

As high as you can afford but I would not go lower than VF30 - which, to me, still have enough “meat” on them to not look out of place. Also look for originality and eye appeal - “dipped out” XF/AU coins (of which many are in straight graded slabs) look terrible IMO.

ShaunBC5

What is your plan on the most expensive ones? Go down in grade until they’re similarly priced to the rest, or pay up for similar grade, or split the difference?
I’d probably try to go for a “look” more than a grade. Similar color and wear pattern.
Good luck.

TomB

I don't know how balanced a set would be to have EF coins from 1916-1919 (or whenever) followed by MS64/65 coins for 1920-1947. If the EF coins were very light in color they might match at first glance the latter coins, but very light in color EF coins that are a century old might have a tendency to have been "helped" to get to look like that. Aside from building a shorter set, I am not sure how one keeps a uniform look for those earlier tough coins to match the likely blast-white or lightly toned and lustrous latter coins.

RichR

[[I am not sure how one keeps a uniform look for those earlier tough coins to match the likely blast-white or lightly toned and lustrous latter coins.]]

Exactly my dilemma.

seatedlib3991

This is probably of no use to you, but in the 1970's I built a set of Standing Liberty Quarters.
I did the Type 1 quarters as a match set. I knew the type 2 raised date coins had a lot of expensive coins, so I built a grade set from ag-3 to au-58 for the 1918- 1924 coins. Then I did the recessed date coins in AU/BU. I have never built a walker set so don't know if that approach appeals at all.

P0CKETCHANGE

You could consider them as two short-sets. Your later date MS set, and your early date circulated set. Focus on matching all of the earlier date coins at a grade and price point that’s comfortable.

ricko

I would recommend the idea @P0CKETCHANGE suggested..... Two sets, each set with it's own 'character'.... Cheers, RickO

DelawareDoons

You've stumbled on the reason I don't really chase sets.

However... If I was doing it, I'd split the set myself. VF or XF (uber original only) for 1916-1929, unc for 1933-1947.

airplanenut

What if you went the opposite direction? Keep the higher grade pieces as a short set, and separately build a mid/upper circulated complete set? This doesn't look great with all series, but at least in my opinion, circulated walkers with really original surfaces and a good amount of detail are gorgeous coins. This set still might not be easy to assemble if you wait for great coins (and later dates may be hard to find graded at those levels since the coins are quite inexpensive), but you'll get a complete, matched set at a price point that works.

FranklinHalfAddict

I’d stay away from the AU grades. I’d go for VF30-XF45

gschwernk

Note the pcgs registry breaks up walkers into 2 sets as follows:

Walking Liberty Half Dollars Early Date Set, Circulation Strikes (1916-1933)
Walking Liberty Half Dollars Late Date Set, Circulation Strikes (1933-1947)

You could use these dates to form your sets.

Cougar1978

For me G04 or better fills the hole. Think of the history it has. Beyond that it’s a function of budget and cost. You can upgrade later as cash flow / budget allow. I would not necessarily worry about matching look - I like variety. Those were minted for circulation (not somebody’s opinion in the future on what a set should grade), one piece probably paid for diner for 2 people.

Your question answers why I don’t chase sets.

I have put together an Oregon Trail Commem set in MS64 and higher but that was years ago and they since sold out.

Catbert

My suggestion is to convert the set to a date set and consolidate funding, determining what level of wear and eye appeal is required, and then be patient for the right coin for each year Once this is done, expanding out to other mints within the date would start a second phase if not tapped out by then. .

Walkerguy21D

Since they’re in slabs and not an album, I’m not sure I’d worry about matching the look of the early dates with the later dates. I’d look for reasonably attractive coins in a price range that fits your budget. The shortage of earlier dates is going to require that you live with some variations - or do without.

coinbuf

@Catbert said:
My suggestion is to convert the set to a date set and consolidate funding, determining what level of wear and eye appeal is required, and then be patient for the right coin for each year Once this is done, expanding out to other mints within the date would start a second phase if not tapped out by then. .

+1

coinkat

You might consider re-thinking your objective in terms of a obtaining a balanced set in terms of all the coins having a matching appearance. Look for original lightly circulated examples... and that is a tall order. There is something to be said about the contrarian view that each coin should make a statement for what it is... and is not. One of my biggest numismatic regrets was not buying a 1919 D that was offered to me about 18 years ago. The WLH can be enjoyed and appreciated at different grade levels... The key is to have those coins that exemplify quality for the grade.

Hope you find the coins that make your set want you want it to be

pcgscacgold

Collect the grades that you like and can afford for the missing coins.

I have a gold type set I am working on. My Classic Head coins from the 1830's are not the same grade as my Saints. My $10 early Libs are not the same as the $10 Indians. I still enjoy every coin that I have been able to find. Best of luck.

gumby1234

Maybe try for a nice AU set and sell off the MS coins?

Walkerfan

If most of your set is MS, then in most cases, I'd try not to go below AU 55.

However, an XF 45 to AU 53 would be acceptable, but only if it was of good quality.

You can always upgrade later.

Happy Hunting.

Walkerguy21D

@gumby1234 said:
Maybe try for a nice AU set and sell off the MS coins?

I like that idea, however, practically speaking, bear in mind that even if the OP has the entire short set in MS65, selling them all would generate about a 50% down payment on just the 21S in AU. Then you'd still need to replace the short set pieces with AU coins.

gumby1234

@Walkerguy21D True but it would be easier to make a matching complete set.

jesbroken

Were I to have what you got, I would stick with XF40's less the 21 pds(nearly $100k in MS64) and stick with a doable Fine for them. Sticking with the XF coins would allow an occasional coin with a little luster and perhaps all with slight luster over a long period of time. Maybe even pick a lower grade with all the same type toning as to match. Good luck and keep us updated with pics.
Jim

daltex

Very little chance that this will be ultimately sold as a set, as even if you or your heirs consign it that way it'll likely be broken up and sold piece by piece, so just collect it however you want to. If it makes you happy then there is no wrong way, and you needn't conform to someone else's idea of how to enjoy the coins. Don't refuse to buy a beautiful (to you ) G4 because it doesn't "fit" with the rest of the set.

Catbert

@daltex said:
Very little chance that this will be ultimately sold as a set, as even if you or your heirs consign it that way it'll likely be broken up and sold piece by piece, so just collect it however you want to. If it makes you happy then there is no wrong way, and you needn't conform to someone else's idea of how to enjoy the coins. Don't refuse to buy a beautiful (to you ) G4 because it doesn't "fit" with the rest of the set.

I’m with you generally in this point. I’m not one to be forced into ownership decisions based upon registry or what someone else likes better than me! 🙄🙂

coastaljerseyguy

@daltex said:
Very little chance that this will be ultimately sold as a set, as even if you or your heirs consign it that way it'll likely be broken up and sold piece by piece, so just collect it however you want to. If it makes you happy then there is no wrong way, and you needn't conform to someone else's idea of how to enjoy the coins. Don't refuse to buy a beautiful (to you ) G4 because it doesn't "fit" with the rest of the set.

Agree 100% to collect what you want and can afford. I have the complete set that runs from AG to MS64. Started with coins my father collected from change, mostly the 40's in XF to AU. I then saw someone selling the WLH LOC album with about 10 coins included, which had some earlier dates that I did not have, most of these were AG - F but had a nice dirty original look. I bot and decided to collect the whole series but was only looking to spend what I could afford. That was over 10 years ago. I have now spend around $2,700. Looking to have all 34 - 47 dates in MS or AU+, 80% there now. Trying to have a unmessed /original look for the 16 - 34 dates. I have the 21's all in G6, broke out of slabs. When I'm done figure will have spent around $3,200.

If and when it gets sold it most likely will get broken up. Maybe my son will hold on to set. Don't care if I make any money or lose a little. Glad to have collected and preserved these coins for future owners. Was fun collecting and enjoying the collection. The upgrades have all been my most recent purchases.

david3142

I agree with @Walkerguy21D. Since the coins are in slabs you are almost never going to view them as a group. Therefore, having them match in grade doesn’t seem as important as when you are building an album. My Morgan set has grades from VF25 to MS67 with all kinds of different looks - rainbow toned, DMPL, blast white, crusty original - each coin stands on its own merits. Buy the keys in grades that are attractive to you that fit your budget.

jesbroken

It's a tough set for most mid grade coins. In AU50 the 21 PDS are nearly $20,000. I wish you the best of luck. The best I could ever do was AG-Fine and the keys were the worst condition. Of course, that was nearly 50 years ago.
Jim

TPRC

I've always thought that collecting a matching a set of any coin related group was one of the toughest things to accomplish. When I was collecting Bust halves, my mentor stressed collecting coins with the same "look," but honestly, after reaching 200 varieties, I decided it was too difficult a task to complete. There were, of course, a few famed collectors that were able to do it, and one could often spot the collection a bust half came from just by the "look" of the coin. But that was the old days and I haven't seen that happen in quite a while, though I am sure there are a few collections still out there.

Having said that, Cladiator recently posted a modest Peace Dollar set that contains coins with a similar "look," and it is a wonderful set, and one I'd be proud to own.
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1081684/library-of-coins-peace-dollar-album#latest

As for your walker collection, I think the best you can do is find the nicest coins for the grade that you can afford. That alone would be quite an accomplishment. If you wish to keep your "look", you might end up spending 100k or more to accomplish that.

Best of luck.

124Spider

With my Walkers, I have compromised--I have matching pages. The first page of the album is full of expensive coins, so I settle for lower grades there than in the last three pages; the second page is less expensive than the first, but still lots of expensive coins compared to the last three pages, so I again settle for less than perfect coins, but which I find attractive. The last three are all very pretty coins.