Solid Tape Residue on holder

lilolme

So I got a new arrival and it had some tape residue on the top part of the slab in the area of the label.

No problem will just remove it. Or so I thought. This tape residue is sort of solid. Hard.

Slightly older holder, Get 4.4 so this tape residue could have been on there for some time.

Tried glass cleaner, Goo Gone, WD40 and didn't change anything noticeably. However, the bicycle chain degreaser is slowly removing it but taking a lot of rubbing. At least it is now to the point that it is not so distracting.

Not going to be doing anything fancy like heating it up as I don't care to take a chance on the coin. And no acetone or similar as that will make it worse and permanent damage to the plastic.

If you do know of something that will take it off without damaging the holder plastic let me know. But otherwise it looks like I will eventually get there or close enough.

291fifth

If the chemicals you have already tried didn't fully remove it you are probably best advised to just leave it as it is. The chance of damaging the holder goes up with every chemical experiment.

justmenutty72

Try acetone

LanceNewmanOCC

acetone is a wonderful choice but once long ago i did cause a slab to go milky colored from it. don't recall if it was ngc or pcgs, so always best to do a test spot or search the archives. there is very little even the most creative of us can come up with that hasn't already been beaten to death around here. to me that is comforting.

i bet some youtube has some great videos. the hard part to this isn't getting the stuff off, it is finding the effective, easy solution. - there are some fantastic channels that do rust removal, bolt loosener, corrosion removal, grease lubrication comparison videos by brands, done systematically. i highly recommend for the guys (and some gals) whom may run into such situations. the ones showing certain chemicals getting into bolts to loosen them up was particularly memorable as well as the ones that strip all rust off. (although the sand/glass bead blowers in the little booths is pretty amazing as well - this is similar to some fossil rock removal and preservation techniques)

i have had successes with isopropyl alcohol and an old sock with some elbow grease on various surfaces including plastic but if it is too hard, it may take too much elbow and another solution would be best not sure if it is a good idea to let it sit for extended periods.

MarkKelley

DO NOT use acetone. There's a reason it doesn't come in plastic containers.

lilolme

Didn't think about the alcohol or videos.

I don't have any but wondered about the plastic polisher's. What is it - Plastix or something. I mean that should not harm the plastic since it is used to polish out the scratches.

justmenutty72

@MarkKelley said:
DO NOT use acetone. There's a reason it doesn't come in plastic containers.

Correct. My bad.

streeter

Plast-x is a 2,000 grit fine abrasive in compound. Not appropriate for hardened organic compounds.
I think you would want to use a solvent that comes in a plastic container. That doesn't mean that the solvent wouldn't discolor or damage the slab.

Try a qtip and use turpentine or possibly kerosene and just barely touch an affected area hopefully not in a focal area. See if you can soften the hard mass.

lilolme

@streeter said:
Plast-x is a 2,000 grit fine abrasive in compound. Not appropriate for hardened organic compounds.
I think you would want to use a solvent that comes in a plastic container. That doesn't mean that the solvent wouldn't discolor or damage the slab.

Try a qtip and use turpentine or possibly kerosene and just barely touch an affected area hopefully not in a focal area. See if you can soften the hard mass.

That makes sense on the Plast-x.

Yes I am being cautious and not using something I think will just make the plastic hazy as that would sort of be like the tape residue except permanent. I have made it less noticeable and might be good enough. Just one of those things I thought I was going to fix quickly but Not.

Not in a focal area just on the label area. Hard to get a picture but can see it at a steep angle here I think. Covers a little larger area but not as full and thick. That is what I have been able to reduce and the solid area appears 'thinner' but not certain as it could just be smoother.

alaura22

Lighter fluid
I use this to get the stickers off the boxes
DON"T LIGHT

jesbroken

I used my wife's finger nail polish remover once to get a glob of a tarlike substance off a pair of ngc holders that was very hard. Did not damage either, but I am no expert in any manner. Goid luck.
Jim

rokky

Sometimes I use my nail polish remover lol. Only a tiny bit on a q-tip.

Broadstruck

Rub a drop of mineral oil on it and leave it on there for a few hours.

Then wipe it off and degrease with Windex.

silverbul

What they said.

lilolme

Thanks @Broadstruck @rokky @jesbroken
A couple more possibilities. I probably would have avoided the nail polish as I would wonder about making the slab foggy. But I can test on a cracked out slab. That is safe.

Broadstruck

If nothing else works you can always mild abrasively buff it off with Meguiar's PlastX polish.

lilolme

@Broadstruck said:
If nothing else works you can always mild abrasively buff it off with Meguiar's PlastX polish.

Streeter above indicated that might not work. But I could use the stuff for a few old slabs (you know how they seem to contact in the center and in particular the reverse). I just have never gone out and purchased some to fix them. New opportunity?

ricko

Most (the one's I know about) nail polish removers contain some acetone.... so be careful with that substance around plastic. Cheers, RickO

lilolme

@ricko said:
Most (the one's I know about) nail polish removers contain some acetone.... so be careful with that substance around plastic. Cheers, RickO

Agree. That is not one I would have tried and not sure I will. But if I do it will be on a cracked out slab to test it first. Can't go wrong on one that is already busted open.

hfjacinto

I once had a scratched PCGS slab with a somewhat regrettable coin inside (a proof LMC with a plating blister that I picked up for $2). The slab was scratched so I did some googling and found that “Headlight Restorer” would remove the scratches. I actually had some headlight restorer from the detailing I did on our cars. So with some Elbow grease and a little bit of time I actually had a scratch free slab (although in some angles you could see the faint hairlines from the buffing). We’ll at this point the coin just looked out of place in the nicer slab so I ended up giving the coin away.

Be careful of unintended circumstances

OAKSTAR

I wouldn't use "any" chemicals on a slab! Use a hairdryer to remove the solid tape residue. The hairdryer will soften the tape residue and you can remove it with a soft rag. Heat from a hairdryer will not damage the coin. Also, the hairdryer will remove any stickers.

I have use this to polish and remove hairline scratches from my slabs.

streeter

I've worked on items for at least 25 yrs. With varying degrees of success. Tape residue is ABOVE the substrate. Cloudiness on headlights and scratches in plastic are INTO the substrate.

Two different approaches. My opinion is try to soften the hard residue with the proper chemical that will not damage the plastic holder. Use nothing that comes in a metal container until you've tried it on a practice slab.

We have a saying, ' let the chemical do the work'. Softening the hard residue should be able to be done with little or no physical labor. I would first try a low VOC light solvent such as kerosene or turpentine. Applied with a qtip. Leave it alone. Let it do the work.

messydesk

Soak in a couple drops of lamp oil (unscented kerosene) for an hour, and that should start softening it.

steveben

plast-x or brasso...but i think they might have changed their formula. do not use acetone

Namvet69

How bout using a new industrial razor blade to slowly shave the adhesive off. I'm not liable for blood drawn. Good luck. Peace Roy

shortnock

PAM, that which is used for cooking. Spray a good amount on the tape. Let it soak for 3-5 days...usual hardened-on tape will slide off. Worked here!

jackpine20

I have used peanut butter with good results, and then Windex to degrease the holder. I am in agreement with many of the comments above. Let the peanut oil soak into the residue. If you have to scrub, you didn't let it soak long enough. Acetone will ruin the plastic.

LanceNewmanOCC

has anyone tried experiment with virtually worthless coin in pcgs and ngc holder. put into jar of acetone, let sit, see how long it takes to dissolve?

lkeigwin

Someone used the wrong cleaner on this slab. I suspect it was acetone.

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I used 3M wet/dry polishing paper, six grades, from 30 microns to 15, 9, 3, 2, and 1. This was the best I could get it.

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Finally I came up with a much better solution, though it did take a couple of months and cost a little more.

GRANDAM

Keep using the Goo-Gone. Keep the sticker area soaked and eventually the sticker will soften and you will be able to wipe away what is left.

Stingray63

Lestoil.
This works the best, quickly and with absolutely no damage to the slabs.
I've bought coins on Ebay and Great Collections that I know have been around the block and at times had hard, aged glue spots on the slabs from where some type of tape or price sticker was. Just dab and rub with your finger tip and it dissolves the glue and only the glue right then and there and leaves no trace of anything else. Then just wipe with a clean, soft tissue or cloth. Your slab will show no trace that anything was there or was touched.

Watch out with the headlight cleaners. Over time the slab will start to get a sticky feel and slightly discolor.
Also, don't use Bug & Tar Remover. It will ruin your slab like acetone.

Onastone

I've always fought adhesive with adhesive. A good packing tape will pull off other tape residue. I'd avoid chemicals on plastics, and wiping can scratch the slab too.

lilolme

I thought I would give an update. Brief summary - that tape residue is 'better' or not as noticeable but nothing so far has removed it.

When I say better, it appears to be thinner, not as foggy and even clear in some viewing angles. But it is still there. I suspect if I kept going with a couple of the items it might finally 'be gone'.

It is difficult sometimes to tell if something had an impact or not and then others it appears it did but hard to quantify. Just looked a little better. The over cleaner did appear to thin the adhesive. I applied with a Qtip and let it sit for an hour or so as per directions for oven cleaning. Also the comet cleaner with 6% citric acid when left on for several minutes appeared to thin it some. Finally the PAM cooking oil, which may be like many of the suggested oils, may have also thinned it some. This I left on over night so a little more difficult to remember how it looked before and after.

I suspect as many suggested that the soaking is a key. However, when this tape hardens like this, it kind of appears to undergo a chemical-like transition to where the normal cleaning agents have a difficult time penetrating and doing their job. I also tested the edge of the adhesive after soaking with a sharp blade and it remains solid-hard.

I only used stuff I had as I don't see going out and buying a pint or more of some cleaner or chemical to use several drops to see if it works and then be left with something I don't use. Also due to not wanting to take a chance with the coin I did not do any heating of any type and don't plan to. Just not worth any chance to the coin just to see if some tape residue could be removed.

I did try alcohol but it seemed to make it a little worse. I kept taking the shots but it kind of got more blurry.

I also tried everything (and more) on a cracked out slab first. And nothing seemed to bother the pcgs plastic except the acetone. Note: didn't have other chemicals suggested and so did not try them. The acetone is deadly to the pcgs plastic. First I dipped the Qtip in acetone and touched to the wet Qtip to the plastic. An immediate foggy area appeared. I then let the Qtip dry out so tha there was little 'moisture' left. Then lightly touched the plastic. Again it was foggy almost instantly.

Here is a picture of the cracked out plastic and except for the foggy areas of the actone I could not see that any of the other 'cleaners' did anything. I applied soaps, dish soaps, MS70, EZest (dip), WD40, bicycle chain degreaser, comet 6% citric, oven cleaner, windex, PAM, and a couple others I am not remembering right now. None of this appeared to do anything to the pcgs plastic. I did Not try all of these on the actual tape residue slab. Just testing out the plastic here.

telephoto1

Novus plastic polish.

OAKSTAR

@telephoto1, forget this thread! I want that Split Window!! 👍🏻 👍🏻

ctf_error_coins

91% alcohol

and /or

Vegetable oil then 91% alcohol, repeat if needed.

Finger nail my be needed to help loosen the gunk.

Cranium_Basher73

What about using water? And keeping the glue wet and hoping it'll soak in?