Need Help Deciding What to Send for Grading
jbklyn88
Posts: 23 ✭
Hey everyone, I'm new to the whole coin collecting process. My dad passed away when I was 10 months old and for a while he was a huge collector. I just came across a bunch of his collected coins including uncirculated coin sets from 1988 and 1989 in their original packaging (brochures and all). Is it worth getting these graded by PCGS? If so, can I submit them in the original plastic packaging? I know opening them can potentially mess up their values, especially if they get damaged or even touched in the wrong spot in the process.
I did submit a few coins already to get graded (waiting on those to come back), had them labeled and sent in mylar flips. I wasn't entirely sure if I should be doing the same thing with these.
Appreciate any feedback!
Comments
"is it worth getting these graded" is a personal question. The only question that matters is whether it is worth it TO YOU.
Consider:
For many people, if (the potential value of the graded coins) is less than (the value of the raw coins) + (the cost of getting them graded), then it's not worth getting them graded.
Chances are that the mint set coins are no where near nice enough to justify grading. Best to enjoy them as they are.
I am afraid to ask what other coins you already submitted. Hopefully you got some good advice from an experienced person.
What would you consider "no where near nice enough"? They're in the original packaging from the mint, so the coins haven't touched air in 30 plus years lol.
While you didn’t ask me, it likely means sufficient quality/grade, the value of which would justify the grading fees. You need to determine the anticipated value at various potential grade levels, by examining prices realized in the marketplace. The coins you mentioned are common enough, such that it might not matter that they haven’t been touched in 30 years. Most examples of those dates are unlikely to be worth the cost of grading.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Most coins from 1988 and 1989 would need to grade MS68 to be worth more than the raw coin+ the costs to submit. I suggest that you check the PCGS coinfacts for each coin, that will give you the data on populations of each grade, the PCGS guide price as well as several recent auction sales for each grade. Here is an example of the data for 1988 Lincoln cent.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Most mint set coins were not worth grading the day they left the mint. It's not about how shiny and new they look, it's about the strike, surfaces, etc.
I am very happy that you are having fun with these heirlooms, but please please please study and learn and ask for advice before you end up disillusioned and bitter. New collectors often get carried away with submitting coins and grading coins, but they end up with slabbed coins that are worth less than what they paid to get them graded.
Grading at the higher end of the scale is very difficult to master. Lots of experienced or longtime collectors can't even do it effectively (myself included).
And BTW, welcome to the forum. As a new member it will take a few days before you are cleared to post photos. But when you can, post photos for more feedback.
they are saying how often would you want to pay $25 to a company to get something worth $15 - and what would be your reasons for doing so?
Just because they are in original packaging doesn’t mean they will grade 70 / flawless. They might grade 69. They might have milk spots. And as pointed out they are super common.
If there is one you really like then have t it but I usually focus on coins that are 50 years or older
I would leave them in the original packages
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Thanks for the candid feedback everyone! And yes, I'm trying to read up on everything on my own and study, but there's just a ton of information to take in.
So, "uncirculated" just means that there's a possibility it might be an MS-67 or higher? What about proof sets? I have those too for 1988 and 1989.
Here is the coinfacts for a 1988-S proof Lincoln, of special note here is the pops, even if you get the grade you need of PF70 it may still be tough to sell as the market is loaded with coins.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
thanks!
I do check the Pops too, just trying to figure out if a coin is worth anything is confusing haha
Again, I appreciate the help!
Uncirculated is a finish so to speak. Struck once with regular effect.
Proof is struck twice to give a mirrored look to the fields.
The grade of say 67 is determined by how the coin looks not the process of merely producing it. 👍🏼
🎶 shout shout, let it all out 🎶
Uncirculated means there is no wear from circulation, but they can still be dinged up from the manufacturing process. They could be as low as MS60.
Proof is actually a method of manufacture, not a condition. However, proof coins will have a certain appearance and will usually grade very high.
Leave them all alone. The uncirculated sets are worth just a tiny bit over face value and the proof sets aren't very valuable, either. Grading fees will be much higher than the value of the coins, most likely. If, in the future, you become an expert grader of modern coins then I would suggest you look at them for potential grading, but for now it is simply throwing away money for no good reason.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
@jbklyn88 ....Welcome aboard. There is excellent advice above. Most (if not all) of your coins in the mint and proof sets will not be worth submitting to a TPG. If you have other special coins, post pictures here (when you can) of the obverse and reverse. Forum members will assess them and advise you of value/action. Cheers, RickO
Just to add....
Your father's unc and proof sets might be a good inspiration for you to embark on a new adventure. Their value is not in the sets themselves, but in the motivation they might give you to study and learn about a new hobby.
Have fun!
Great advice here! Thank you!
uncirculated coins can score as low as MS60, if they are beat up .... nicks, low luster, ....
Here's my 2 cents worth! (low tech)
Normal business strikes (coins struck for normal circulation) that are handled at the mint, machine roll at some point, or pulled and put into say uncirculated mint sets, are not special coins.
So in the fine details department there can be lots of differences in a final grade.
machine handling nicks, & scuffs,
All the coin production dies start out NEW (fresh) so the earlier coins that these dies produce will likely produce better and more defined details, (overall better strike)
Some raw metal used in producing the coin may be slightly more brilliant (exceptional luster).
And there is likely other aspects taking into consideration in the grading process of the fine details that I know nothing about.
So, luster,
lack of machine marks,
and overall sharp well defined details move the final grading number assigned to a coin.
Proof's are also graded for certain quality of details and other aspects.
I have proof's that are 62 and I have proofs that are 69. A grade 70 is as high as the scale goes, or that's the highest I've seen or heard about.
The difference in price from a 69 to a 70 can be staggering on older coins
My take away from what's being said here is, its POSSIBLE that some of your MS coins may be exceptional enough to grade high enough to justify getting them (it) graded. But at very close inspection is there some that has a bit of a standout look. Its certain that if you have several of these not ALL are going to be exceptional, which means they'll receive a lower grade and have very little value. If you have some that would grade say 67 or higher then there may be more to gain from it.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
I have a bunch of silver proof sets, probably from every year since the 90s. After going thru over 200 individual proof coins (ASEs, AGEs, and the like) over 2+ years - and the costs incurred slabbing them, I have little appetite (not to mention FUNDS) to crack these open and send them in. Even if I could send them in the current lenses (not sure they'd take even them this way?), it might just not be worth it. Especially with an all-or-nothing approach I tend to take.
Plus, I think these coins may actually store better this way ... all in 1 case. Well, some sets have 2 or 3 cases / lenses.
I love it when I see HSN Mike M tell you the "coin-by-coin" _value _of the sets he sells.
Yeah, according to his book / sheet at 69 or 70, sure .. or maybe. And he has teams of ppl crack open any sets he wants to grab specific coins from. I dont got that. 
Of course, thats my frame of mind (today). YMMV. Like others are saying - what it may be worth to you.
Enjoy the sets.
@jbklyn88 - First "Welcome" to this forum and, hopefully, to this great hobby. Second, as most have indicated, it may not be practical from a monetary perspective to grade these coins. I have sent a number of coins for grading simply because of the memories and the sentimental value - purely as a "COLLECTOR". I wanted to be able to safeguard and display these coins for the reasons I just mentioned. The choice is your decision. If you want to flip or deal coins, you likely will not want to grade. If you want to approach your decision simply as a collector for memory sake, you would not be wrong to have your coins graded.
To me a coin needs to be worth at least $200, after grading, to consider sending to PCGS. This is for common, inexpensive coins like those you mentioned.
bob
'88 and '89 mint sets have much more stable packaging than most earlier dates but this might change going forward so I tend to remove all mint set coins. If they're already tarnished soak them in acetone and repackage them.
The '89 is less stable than the '88.
There's a great rotated reverse '88-P half dollar that might be worth grading if you have one.
Yes, I agree with the costs of "slabbing" (I'm a total novice, so I'm assuming that means having them graded and put into cases) can cost a lot in the long run, more than what most of the coins are potentially worth both in value and sentimentality to me.
Again, great info everyone! Appreciate it!
Yeah, slab / holder same thing - I am a lazy typer, and I invented a verb lol. (the "case" term was my brain shutting down, but I've heard "lens" used for a multi-coin holder.) There will be a LOT of abbrev thrown out at you here too - theres at least 2 threads about them.
After 2+ years I'm still pretty new(ish), but been doing enuff of the same kind of thing to get by. I know enuff to be dangerous.
I'm going to add this.
I don't have a lot of personal experience with Mint Sets, but! I've got some.
The mint set case below HAD one of my mint sets of 2009 Lincoln's in it, well its been maybe 4 years ago that I bought it. They were still nice but they did have a fair amount of toning around the fringe of the coin.
These cases are not anywhere near SEALED as far as a bonded seam, they snap right open with your finger nail. Also, I'm not sure about the punched paper/foam board insert being that coin safe either?
When I received them I wasted no time in getting them out the holder and into 2" X 2" flips. At that time my entire Lincoln cent collection was in flip holders.
I just recently added a encap slab holder page for some slabbed coins that I started getting.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
Nice thread and answers, everyone. Nice OP (Original Post / Original Poster), who is soaking up the info and love.
If you run across any proof or mint sets from 1964 or earlier, they will contain some silver coins, but may still be only worth the approximate silver value, unless they are very high grade.
As others have said, it can be difficult to tell which coins are likely to grade at e.g. ms 69 or e.g. pf70.
If you have a local coin shop in your area, with a friendly proprietor, you might ask on a lazy day for the proprietor's opinion on your sets, and if any stand out as worth slabbing.
The older proof sets (1950s and earlier) might have coins worth slabbing.
Error coins and cameo / PL coins can be as well. Newer sets not so much. I don’t slab my ASEs either.
Hey all!
Sorry I haven't been as active on this thread as I've liked, BUT PCGS just got back to me with the grades of the coins I submitted. 5 of the 8 I submitted were graded and three weren't for some reason. Two of the coins that were graded came back with code "92". So I'm assuming my dad cleaned them 40 years ago and somehow PCGS picked up on it.
This is what I see so far (the coins are still being imaged)
1884-O $1 MS62 USA
1880 $1 Genuine XF Details (92 - Cleaned) USA
1921-S $1 XF45 USA
1943 1C No Service/Not Holdered USA
1943-D 1C No Service/Not Holdered USA
1943-S 1C No Service/Not Holdered USA
1913 1C, BN Genuine G Details (92 - Cleaned) USA
1914-S 1C, BN VF25BN USA
This is going to be a learning experience for me now. Before I send anything off, I can ask the true experts (you guys of course).
Thanks!
Yeah, don't be afraid to ask. Sorry if this sounds a little harsh, but none of the coins you sent in were worth the cost of slabbing. The 1914-S Lincoln Cent is a nice coin to have for sure but you still need it to be in AU-55/58 or better to be worth the cost of submission.
IMO, in most cases a coin needs to be worth at least $150-200 to be worth the cost of submission. And it's not as important if you plan to keep your coin for a long time rather than sell it.
"You can't get just one gun." "You can't get just one tattoo." "You can't get just one 1796 Draped Bust Large Cent."
"three weren't for some reason."
Good chance your 3 1943 cents are reprocessed/plated.
Ouch! Only 3 of the 8 coins straight-graded, and none of those were worth the cost of the grading fees. I regret to tell you that the results indicate your grading skills aren't sufficient to identify coins worth submitting. This happens ALL the time, and sadly, people often get discouraged and quit the hobby instead of gaining knowledge and experience.
Rare coins are rare.
Nice rare coins are exceedingly rare.
In your average collection or accumulation, there might be 1 in 100 coins that are nice enough to justify professional grading. There are exceptions, but most of what would be found in average collector albums falls into this category.
There are tens of thousands of mint set coins "out there". Very, very few are worthy of professional grading. Identifying them is a skill set that takes the pros years to learn. Do some learning, meet some people who can teach you, and get smart before you waste any more on grading fees.
@jbklyn88 what do you think of the results? Are you happy? Sad? Surprised?
I agree with all of the comments from @BryceM. By my figuring, you started with coins that were worth about $150, you spent about $250, and now you you have coins that are still worth about $150. Those are round numbers, let's not quibble down to the last dollar.
On the other hand, @BryceM's opinions don't matter, and mine don't matter either. They're your coins and your money. If you're happy, that's what's important.
Not surprised to say the least. I wasn't expecting anything to come back as "rare". I didn't expect the two coins come back marked as "cleaned" nor do I know why the three steel pennies can't be graded. Again these coins were stored before I was born and haven't seen the light of day for probably 35 years.
I was willing to spend the $250 and have "eight free coin submissions a year" (not really free - I know lol) just to see if I had any luck.
Like I said, I think going forward I'll ask you guys first!
Yeah, I know. "Ouch" was my first thought, but again, I had no idea what to do originally which is why I tried my luck in sending coins in to get graded.
Still learning! Thanks for the help all (again)!
We've all been there brother. Enjoy the ride, and as HRH used to say, "Have fun with your coins."
Got the coins back. If anyone wants pictures, let me know.
How can you tell?
From the look of them, generally they are too shiny.
When you get them back you can post photos for opinions from the forum.
1943-S
That coin doesn't look reprocessed to me.
It's possible that it has active corrosion. PCGS (and NGC) won't slab coins with active corrosion, since they'll just keep corroding within the slab.
In any case, this coin is only worth a few cents, and a slab wouldn't change that.
Your coin doesn't look like a typical reprocessed cent, it looks more like it has been spray painted.
Here's what a uncirculated steel cent should look like.
I actually spoke with someone at PCGS and they're reaching out to a floor manager to see why the three coins couldn't be slabbed. I know a slab wouldn't necessarily change the value of the coins, but I thought they might be worth preserving a little better.
I hope they're not spray painted
! I have two sets of steel pennies that look like the one I posted!
Do you see the differences between your example and the pictures posted by @ifthevamzarockin? Even if yours weren't "literally" spray-painted, they have certainly been damaged in some way. The damage is not reversible. They are not worth preserving; there is nothing to preserve, sorry
In the future it would be best if you post photos of your coins for opinions before sending them in for grading.
Learned the hard way! Going to do that from now on!
We have all put our toe into the water to test the temp. That's how most of us started. Here is my first PCGS submission which was 4 out of 8.
bob
Line Items Cert # PCGS # Description Grade Region
1 1 22086366 7081 1878-CC $1, PL MS62PL USA
2 1 22086367 7144 1883-CC $1 MS65 USA
3 1 22086368 7152 1884-CC $1 MS63 USA
4 1 22086369 1154 1829 1/2C, RB Genuine (92 - Cleaned) USA
5 1 22086370 1169 1835 1/2C, RB Genuine (92 - Cleaned) USA
6 1 22086371 5791 1932-D 25C XF45 USA
7 1 22086372 2233 1908-S 1C, RB Genuine (92 - Cleaned) USA
8 1 N/A 2239 1909-S 1C Indian, RB Counterfeit USA
Here was my second submission to PCGS, 7 out of 8!
bob
Line Items Cert # PCGS # Description Grade Region
1 1 04092583 1159 1832 1/2C, BN Genuine (92 - Cleaned) USA
2 1 04092584 7080 1878-CC $1 MS62 USA
3 1 04092585 7134 1882-CC $1 MS63 USA
4 1 04092586 7144 1883-CC $1 MS64 USA
4 2 04092587 7144 1883-CC $1 MS63 USA
5 1 04092588 7152 1884-CC $1 MS63 USA
5 2 04092589 7152 1884-CC $1 MS63 USA
"I have two sets of steel pennies that look like the one I posted!"
If ya can handle a little more bad news post em'
