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Should I slab this Jefferson?
SenateSaloon
Posts: 114 ✭✭✭
I wouldn’t usually consider slabbing a 2020-P Jefferson, but the reverse of this one is about perfect and the obverse is strong (couple of very minor nicks on the nose). Also, took these photos with the iPhone 13 Pro. These photos are the best I could get. Had trouble getting good photos of the obverse. 
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There wouldn’t be anything wrong with slabbing it yourself, but I wouldn’t pay anyone else to do it.😉
When it comes to grading, the obverse is weighted far more heavily than the reverse and the obverse of your coin doesn’t look the least bit special.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
It all depends on how rare a full 2020-P Jefferson nickel is. The reverse is outstanding, but the obverse does not impress me. It's toned, and there are multiple marks in the fields. I am not the expert on grading moderns, but I think that it would be totally maxed out at MS-66 full steps. It could go as low as MS-64.
No... the obverse is not very helpful in terms of achieving your objective. The rim nicks on the obverse are not helping the cause
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
Definitley save your money. Slabbed MS67's are being sold for under 30$. And really, don't all these newer minted nickels have full steps?
"When they can't find anything wrong with you, they create it!"
If it were mine ... no.
No.
With diffused light, small marks are often masked. Instantly I found four large marks on the obverse and taking another quick look in the second photo I see at least three more smaller ones. Unless a mid grade Unc is worth it (which I doubt) this coin isn’t going to make you money if you pay to grade it.
My guess is that you could buy one in that condition already in a slab for less than it will cost you to submit. But if you just fancy testing your grading skills and have the $50 to burn then sure send it in.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
I agree that this coin would most likely not grade above 66 and perhaps lower. Unfortunately, while the reverse is beautiful, the obverse has nicks directly in the foremost visible area, the nose, which will negatively affect its grade. Shame the obverse doesn't match the reverse.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
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were you using ambient light? as a 95% rule, best to image coins in a fairly dark room with the only light source being, a lamp or photography light. some people in the 5% just have good fortune with their ambient light. (exceptions are for people whom have figured out how to do really good numismotography)
best to go to the pcgs price guide and look for grading price jumps when looking to do some split-grading. generally, imo, for the risk, reward and cost, best to try and 2x at least on coins like this because if you miss, you will drown.
now some people just like lighting their money on fire and there have/are plenty of examples of this shared on the forum. i personally recommend it unless you can parlay it into some great xp.
Based on the way these modern Jefferson nickels are graded I would guess this would come in under ms64 or maybe 64 if lucky. I have a few MS65FS that look a lot better. If you want a Pcgs graded Jefferson similar to yours it would probably be about $10-$15 at auction. You could buy a MS66FS for under $25 on ebay right now, and it would ultimately cost less than sending in yours to PCGS.
If your particular coin has some special sentimental value to you, then slab it I guess.
http://www.pcgs.com/SetRegistry/publishedset.aspx?s=142753
https://www.autismforums.com/media/albums/acrylic-colors-by-rocco.291/
Its a nice Jefferson, but I dont see it any higher than MS64 due to the obverse. I agree, the reverse is very nice! I have found that the rolls I have searched have very nice reverses, but the obverse sides have too many hits for me to submit any of the ones I have seen.
No. The obverse limits the grade to a level that would not cover the cost of grading.
No.
I see where you might wanting to send it.
Those steps look razor sharp!
The fields look amazing, as well. But shooting for the high grade of that Registry Set. Very risky, financially speaking. However, if you're just grading because you like the coin. Well, it makes sense to grade. Just my opinion.
I recently
sent a fantastic 2020d Shield Cent in. Looking as great as yours. I loved the appearance,
plus thinking it may hit that elusive Top Pop category. Well, it just missed. By only a +. MS 67. I love your Jefferson.
Good Luck if you decide to send in.
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.A PCGS MS66 FS is currently available for $23.95 on eBay. It’s unlikely that the OP’s coin would grade that high and the cost to get it graded, added to shipping costs, would exceed the $23.95 by a wide margin.
By the way, the right obverse field looks far from “amazing” and even if it did look great, the portrait shouldn’t be ignored, as it counts, too.
It might be fun to go for it, as you sometimes do and I’m glad that you enjoy yourself. But there’s nothing wrong with being practical and deciding not to throw money away.😉
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Some people like to slab everything and don't care about the cost.
This may all be pure speculation but here are a few things i believe every collector should take into consideration when choosing's what coins they want for their sets. The dates in particular are from 2004 to date, 2022. Most collectors caught on right away in 2004 or 2005 that the coins in the mint sets took a drastic turn towards perfection and that such coins did not match the coins in their collections. Because the US Mint started sandblasting the dies giving us a different kind of coin with a satin finish. So collectors realized then, they could still find the coins they wanted in coin rolls that matched the coins in their sets. And the coin grading companies jumped aboard by designating mint set coins, SMS. But in 2011, they stopped designating coins SMS when the US mint stopped sandblasting the dies thus bringing satin finish coins to an end. Whether it was the letters collectors sent to the US Mint about the problem with distinguishing circulated coins from the satin finish coins or something else occurred, we'll never know. I was one of those collectors.
So in 2011, the US Mint discontinued making satin finish coins and started issuing brilliant lustrous mint set coins. And the coin grading companies stopped designating mint set coins SMS even though the US Mint continued using higher coining pressure and careful handling for the coins earmarked for the mint sets. And you may have noticed the MS 68 and MS69 coins/grades disappeared from the pops and many of those mint set coins are near perfection coins. So it's really up to the collector to determine if the coin they are collecting was made for circulation or did it come from a mint set. It's so very easy assembling 2004 to date 2022 set from mint sets. And it's so dirt cheap to do so...about a buck a coin. So collectors need to decide for themselves what a coin made for circulation looks like. And I think it's in the hair bangs of Jefferson and other softer details since the US Mint used lower coining pressure striking the coins for commerce. And you're not going to get any help from the majority of coin collectors steering the coin grading companies to distinguish the differences in strike details between coins. They haven't ever done that as many coins with poor strikes have received high grades.
The US Mint glossary tell us they use two different coin pressure settings between the two products, commerce coins and the uncirculated coins for the mint sets. And one receives special handling (like a conveyor belt so the coins seldom come into contact with each other to avoid any nicks or abrasions. Proof coins likely are made with even higher pressure, why we see wire rims on those coins.
But my point is, pay special attention to those circulating coins, locating the highest grade possible from the rolls. They may become quite valuable someday...once everyone gets onboard. Also keep in mind, coins made for the mint sets didn't all make it into a mint set but were released into circulation along with the coins made for circulation. Read an article somewhere about that. But there is a way to distinguish a commerce coin from a mint set coin. If the coin looks too perfect, it's likely from a mint set or was made for a mint set,
Leo
And, of course, locating the perfect coin made in 1939 from a roll must have been a very thrilling experience for that collector.
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
My recommendation would be to self slab and save the money.... Use it as a 'standard and keep an eye out for a better one.... No marks or dings. Cheers, RickO
Nice. I would put it in a airtight and keep it till I make a decision. I have box’s of them like that I call them my someday coin boxes. Some day I may send them in if the prices go up and makes it worth submitting. I do this with a lot of coins if they are nicer then normal. You never know it could be something later, I would rather have it then not and say I had some but turned them loose.
That’s just me dumb Type2 thinking.
Hoard the keys.
Thanks for all the input. Very helpful and much appreciated. The reverse really is about perfect. The obverse is better than the photos but still probably in MS 65. Thanks again.
I have several partial rolls of very nice Lincolns from the 30's, some from the 40's and 50's. Put them all in air-tights for the grandkids or great grandkids, or....
I think a few marks or dings on a coin made for circulation is unavoidable. A coin that ships out in a huge bag than is run through counter and paper rolling machines.........I'm beginning to think the OP's coin came from a mint set.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
I have few rolls myself. Bought them because the end coins were toned, some red. Haven't searched them but do buy them occasionally.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
Yes- this nickel is from a mint set. Never said otherwise. No way you’d have zero dings on the reverse if it weren’t. But my understanding is it’s still the same strike as circulating ones. Have I got that wrong?
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Nice anyway just put it up for a later date.
Hoard the keys.