93 d Lincoln cent double denomination dime reverse
![Josha113n](https://us.v-cdn.net/6027503/uploads/userpics/YJCF7SL9OBNL/nOR2Z3XFCSXWJ.jpeg)
Im believe i found a double denomination 93 d Penny obverse over dime reverse.
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Im believe i found a double denomination 93 d Penny obverse over dime reverse.
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Parking lot effect.
If it looks like the coin was picked up out of a parking lot, the chances of it being anything special are slim to none.
Just sayin'.
Hard to tell from these images. Can you provide a few more close-up shots?
hell of a thread you've got going here, dude.
This is a normal cent where the copper coating has been scraped off the reverse, exposing the zinc.
The good news is that it is still worth 1 cent.
It is not possible for a coin to have two different planchets in one coin. Explain how this can happen during the minting process. It is a normal damaged cent with solder or something of the sort on the reverse.
There is nothing at all to support the OP's hypothesis, which is an impossibility in any case.
Put down the coins and pick up the books (or trusted websites). Time to start learning about the minting process and stop fantasizing that damaged coins are spectacular errors.
You refuse to learn and you refuse to take the advice of more experienced collectors. There is so much free knowledge here but you fight it off with a stick.
Oh well....
So just for us folks who aren't nearly as wise as you, explain how a coin can have a dime planchet on one side and a cent planchet on the other. There has to be a way for an error to happen, or plain and simple, it didn't. So how can it happen during the minting process?
Looks like PMD.
I’m not even gonna get started.......
double denomination mules are made from a SINGLE PLANCHET and two mis-paired dies.
Double denomination coins also have the struck images of both coins. Have you noticed that there is no image on the reverse?
Your coin is just a regular Lincoln cent that had the back sheared off. Cents after 1982 are NOT copper, they are copper-plated zinc. You are looking at the Zinc on the back because the copper plating was ground off, either accidentally or on purpose.
I'm sorry to inform you that is nothing but a damaged Lincoln cent.
I'm sorry to tell you, respectfully, this isn't even a close case. There is only two ways you could have such a thing:
Although in both of those cases, there would be a coin image on the reverse.
Your coin was rolled over, probably numerous times, by a car in a parking lot.
But, if you are so certain, spend the $50 and get PCGS to verify it. Of course, PCGS's error expert is Fred Weinberg and he's already weighed in.
There is simply no way for your coin to be what you say it is. And, on top of that, it is quite easy to explain what actually did happen to that coin: reverse cladding ground off exposing the zinc center.
It could happen, though highly improbable, but the weight would be wrong. If a struck Lincoln cent were to create a die cap and then a dime planchet inserted into the press, the two planchets could be struck together. But you would have the combined weight of both planchets. And, you would also have the reverse image struck onto the dime planchet not a smooth reverse.
You cannot learn by refusing to listen to the teachers. Mr. Weinberg is the top expert on this matter.
I promise, you know more about error coins than me.
My advice comes from similar experience trying to learn about cleaned coins. I would buy a NGC or PCGS details coin and try to spot the problem.
Instead of wasting money and time and enormous frustration and rejection looking for error coins... just by the error coin from the expert.
Your path will be so much quicker and more enjoyable. The hunts will start yielding coins you can use to educate us.
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Definitely not an error coin.... Severely damaged cent, nothing more. Cheers, RickO
So, you are saying you need a few more pictures before you can get started.![>:) >:)](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/naughty.png)
"To Be Esteemed Be Useful" - 1792 Birch Cent --- "I personally think we developed language because of our deep need to complain." - Lily Tomlin
Fair enough. First thing you need to do, is forget this coin. Do what an intellectual would do, study, study and study the minting process. You will soon realize why this coin can not be what you think it is. There is so much to learn, I have been doing this for over fifty years and learn more everyday.
Imagine this thread in the days of dial up ?
The cent is PMD. But, seeings how you don't believe anyone, throw some money to PCGS so they can tell you the same thing.
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I'm glad you cleared that up.
The mint had engaged in stranger shenanigans. Look at the TWO 1941 Canadian silver quarters that somehow got used as clad planchets in 1970.
have fun guys
As well as the 70-S quarter struck over a Barber quarter. There have been errors that were snuck out of the Philly Mint (in the oil pan of a fork truck, I believe). But what does that have to do with the OP's coin?
I'm not disagreeing with your comment. The scenarios you list could occur (however improbable) and you provided info on how to confirm them. But arere you suggesting members should post all of the possible scenarios, regardless of the likelihood, when they respond to a question?
I think the generalization that @ldhair posted was an acceptable response. No sense in confusing a new collector with extremely low probability events. Just my opinion.
BTW: do you know of any instances of a dime planchet entering a cent striking chamber that has a capped die? Technically, I suppose it's possible, but.....
let me be blunt and simple ok
you have a post mint damaged coin nothing more, nothing less worth one cent if you are lucky
I invite you to explore a selection of coins for sale at the link provided below.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/LmQTZyt2cqSrxqc89
@Josha113n
Hopefully, one thing you should take away from this thread is the key to identifying true errors and varieties is understanding the minting and die making process. The more you know, the less time you'll waste on damaged coins, but takes time.
Many of the responses on here are from members that are extremely knowledgeable of the minting process. One is considered the top authority in his field. That's like getting an MIT physics professor to help you with your algebra homework.
Here are some links to help you get started
https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/how-coins-are-made-coin-production-terminology
https://www.doubleddie.com (click on the "how dies are made" tab on the left)
Hope this helps
BTW: I agree with the others. There is absolutely no way your coin left the mint in that condition.
Let me just add please in the future forget about the 10 thousand microscope photos, one in focus cropped photo of each side is usually enough.
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And as for that theoretical die cap scenario....
Wouldn't the obverse die cap part have extreme rims/edges from the formation of the cap?![>:) >:)](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/naughty.png)
![:D :D](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/lol.png)
Even if we concocted every split planchet combined with multiple planchet in the striking position scenario, it still wouldn't look like this coin.
Off the top of my head, I am pretty sure it is Italian. Victor Emanuel II possibly?
I probably have to disagree but your guess helped put the designs into perspective for me.
France 10 centimes, years in the 1850s through 1860s or so.
Call me a stickler for details. I think we can all agree that the OP's coin is NOT what he thinks. But to say it is "impossible" can mislead people and also doesn't provide the information that someone other than the OP could use to diagnose the problem. It could also come across to the OP as being dismissive and ignorant since no details are provided.
Members didn't need to list all the possible scenarios. But given what the OP was claiming, it really wasn't that hard to either take an affirmative argument: Your coin is light because of the missing back and you're looking at the Zinc. Or, you could rule out the "planchet fusing/muling" with the weight.
Hell yes. But the point is that the ONLY way for the OP to get what he thinks he has is to have a coin of the WRONG weight, not the correct weight.
Yes, the goatee is a dead giveaway...
I have a file. perhaps I can duplicate the cent's damage sometime soon (call me lazy)
Looks like a magician coin to me! Look it up my first coin that got me back into collecting after years was one of these penny/dime mixed very old but not worth much over $30sih maybe, But I thought I had a super rare thing, I was wrong lol. 90% of the people here are giving you good advice, some are experts in this field. Gl on your search's.
I've never seen a magician coin with a blank reverse. Or maybe you mean it is half of a magician's coin?
I don't know, but I'm sure someone wants it for a Lowball set.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=124643832199&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111
@Tony_Lassitter
Spamming your auctions on other members posts is real low class.![:s :s](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/confounded.png)
Especially when you are trying to pawn of a junk 1916 dime as a D mint.
You earned a place on my blocked bidder list.
Agree. A real stupid move. No one will bid, but he will get himself banned here.
Holy cow! What just happened? Buh bye. Peace Roy
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