1945-D Philippines Twenty Centavos grade please edit to add help on camera settings.

coinsarefun

Just going through more of my study and thought this looked pretty nice but then again most prolly do
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Worth grading?
Thanks guys in advance for the help!
Just took images no editing only crop so it fits on page
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I thought if it’s not worthy of grading maybe someone can tell me if my setting are good or off.
This is for both up above.
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TurtleCat

That is one of the more common date ones but still quite pretty! I feel like she’s an AU-58 but it’s hard to totally see the wear due to the weaker strike. There looks to be a possible scrape running from the left side neck (viewer’s left) to near her waist by her elbow. If so, I would not send it in.

The photo looks good but I’d suggest not using a 6400 ISO. Since you’re on a stable platform (tripod or copy stand) you can keep the ISO at the lowest setting for your camera, that’s probably ISO 200. So your shutter speed would go from 1/2500 to roughly 1/60. That would give you a much better image due to lower noise and more photons on the camera sensor. The aperture of f4.3 sounds like the small end of the spectrum. I’d suggest f8. Your shutter speed would then go to around 1/15 second. So you’d do well to have a remote release. Canon probably has a phone app to let you do that. You’ll get more clarity and sharpness with those two changes.

As long as you’re on a stable platform, never let a fast shutter speed take away from ISO or aperture.

coinsarefun

@TurtleCat said:

The photo looks good but I’d suggest not using a 6400 ISO. Since you’re on a stable platform (tripod or copy stand) you can keep the ISO at the lowest setting for your camera, that’s probably ISO 200. So your shutter speed would go from 1/2500 to roughly 1/60. That would give you a much better image due to lower noise and more photons on the camera sensor. The aperture of f4.3 sounds like the small end of the spectrum. I’d suggest f8. Your shutter speed would then go to around 1/15 second. So you’d do well to have a remote release. Canon probably has a phone app to let you do that. You’ll get more clarity and sharpness with those two changes.

As long as you’re on a stable platform, never let a fast shutter speed take away from ISO or aperture.

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Thanks. Yes, I’m on a copy stand and it’s hooked up to my computer using the software that come with
Canon. I should be able to change all the mentioned setting on there desktop software.....I think.
I’m terrible trying to change anything on the camera itself

coinkat

Nice image... As for the coin, this one is not economical to submit.

TurtleCat

@coinsarefun said:

@TurtleCat said:

The photo looks good but I’d suggest not using a 6400 ISO. Since you’re on a stable platform (tripod or copy stand) you can keep the ISO at the lowest setting for your camera, that’s probably ISO 200. So your shutter speed would go from 1/2500 to roughly 1/60. That would give you a much better image due to lower noise and more photons on the camera sensor. The aperture of f4.3 sounds like the small end of the spectrum. I’d suggest f8. Your shutter speed would then go to around 1/15 second. So you’d do well to have a remote release. Canon probably has a phone app to let you do that. You’ll get more clarity and sharpness with those two changes.

As long as you’re on a stable platform, never let a fast shutter speed take away from ISO or aperture.

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Thanks. Yes, I’m on a copy stand and it’s hooked up to my computer using the software that come with
Canon. I should be able to change all the mentioned setting on there desktop software.....I think.
I’m terrible trying to change anything on the camera itself

You should be able to do that with the Canon software. Just take it out of Auto mode and set it to Av mode. Then set the Av to f8 and the ISO to 200 and it should auto calculate the shutter speed.

coinsarefun

@TurtleCat said:

@coinsarefun said:

@TurtleCat said:

You should be able to do that with the Canon software. Just take it out of Auto mode and set it to Av mode. Then set the Av to f8 and the ISO to 200 and it should auto calculate the shutter speed.

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Ughhhh Thats another day, I'm an old woman I need to get a ton of light with the camera or take it off the copy stand, sit down and look it over. I never did know what to set it on.
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My software saves the images in 2 formats.....1 is JPEG and 1 is CR2
The JPEG has more definition but looks harsh. The CR2 looks like it really is but lacks sharpness.
Can you explain why 2 different formats and which one is the best.....I'm assuming CR2 is more of a raw format? And better?
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See below. I must say the lighting did not change, only the settings but the rubs do show up better on these images
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CR2 Seems like a ton more info as the files are so much larger. I crop and save it in a png file.
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JPEG
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TurtleCat

Yep, the CR2 is canon’s raw file format. It contains more data than a jpeg and lets you do more editing and image manipulation. You probably don’t want that.

JPEG is perfectly fine for what you’re doing. The biggest thing is getting the ISO to 200. If you do that you’ll immediately have a better picture.

You actually don’t need a ton of light. That’s where shutter speed comes in. The longer the time the shutter is open the more light the camera collects.

Here are a couple of videos from PhotographyLife that will give you an easy way to understand the basics.

https://youtu.be/nz0wnQzSS5U

https://youtu.be/PBSfnqFbgFk

https://youtu.be/g5OpccSo188

Crypto

Like it as 62. They are so small that the friction in large photos is often over stated.

coinsarefun

Thanks @TurtleCat i have a lot to learn with the videos you posted. Looking forward to it

pursuitofliberty

@TurtleCat said:
JPEG is perfectly fine for what you’re doing. The biggest thing is getting the ISO to 200. If you do that you’ll immediately have a better picture.

This one line is very important.

I would suggest putting your ISO setting to 200, and then set your Aperture to between about 6 and 10 in Aperture Priority Mode if that is available on your camera. This will cause the shutter speed to adjust automatically and should get you very close to a decent depth of field when focused.

Then you can play with focus and lighting without changing anything on the camera for a bit.

ricko

I cannot help with the photography... but I like the CR2 pictures for detail. My photographic skills consist of point and shoot with a phone now... I think all your pictures are really great Stef... Cheers, RickO

Crypto

I swore I had a 45 as my type but I had it backwards my 20c is a 44 and my 10 is the 45d. Neither as nice as yours and my pics suck.

mannie gray

Pretty coin.
I understand none of the photography stuff, but your coin would likely not be worth submitting.

Swampboy

I agree with a lot of what @TurtleCat at said Stefanie.

I too have a T2i and I was just today looking at the T8i at B&H. ($899)

I use F8 +/- on my 100mm Canon macro and a much lower ISO than you for less noise.
I never go slower than 1/60
I use the Canon EOS software so I can focus on the computer and I always work with the RAW CR2 image (using free Adobe DNG converter) and covert it to a jpeg.
The images come out much more lifelike
The image on the left is the jpeg, the image on the right is the RAW image CR2> DNG > JPEG.

You can see how much information is scrubbed out in the plain jpeg image.

I learned this thanks to a post @MarkInDavis made a few years ago

coinsarefun

Thanks everyone again! I’m glad I turned my thread title as I’m learning soooo much.
When I feel better I’m going to revisit this and post pics to see if I got any better

coinsarefun

Well, I might be too anxious to try everything out after watching the videos and pickup points from you guys.....
....but its looking pretty good ( I Think) I even adjusted the lighting so its more true to life.
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No editing, only cropped. I think I may have gotten lost on a few things bit please tell me what I missed.
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This is the jpeg file.

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This is the CR2 cropped and saved as a png file
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Settings on the remote

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reverse jpg.
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CR2 file cropped and saved as png file
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TurtleCat

Looks much nicer! The raw file (CR2) is always going to be higher quality than a jpeg but for web based images it really doesn’t matter, IMO. I think you’ve got the right idea and applied some good stuff.