What Buffalo would you buy?

resloan

I am a Buffalo collector and have a decent registry short set and wanted some opinions from the group. I want to purchase a single coin in the nicest grade I can afford, but which coin? If you had $500-$600 to spend on a Buffalo what would you do with it? Would you go for a 13-S, a 21-S, a 26-S, a 31-S or some other date? Or would you continue to upgrade your set? Would also appreciate a couple of thoughts on the reason behind your choice. Looking for investment value as well as the joy of owning another great Buffalo.

Hydrant

Buy the coin that you find most appealing. The one that gives you satisfaction and happiness because you have it. Forget all the other nonsense.

BuffaloIronTail

Go for the 1921-S. It's a one year type coin, very scarce, and can be found really nicely struck with some searching.

It's actually the only year where serifs appear on the ones in the date.

I just plain like it.

Pete

Ebeneezer

Assuming you were meaning the type 2 of 1913, that's the one I'd go for. Those are tough to find in the upper grades.

ChrisH821

A 21-S or 26-S in that price range will be fairly low grade. If your aim is unc. coins then I would suggest a 21-P in 64-65 for a one year type, or a 1913 type 1 in 66.
I can't comment on anything investment related, just assume you'll always lose some money and you will never be disappointed.

Connecticoin

@BuffaloIronTail said:
Go for the 1921-S. It's a one year type coin, very scarce, and can be found really nicely struck with some searching.

It's actually the only year where serifs appear on the ones in the date.

I just plain like it.

Pete

I never realized until now that 1921 was the only year with serifs on the "1"s. It's a great look, such a shame they did not do that going forward.

Cocoinut

I'm intrigued by the level of detail in the hair above the tie for the braid found on some 1921 Buffaloes. The Philadelphia coins have it as well, and MS65's can be found in the $600-700 range. I haven't noticed any other dates that have this, not even proofs.

Jim

Jimnight

Very tough questions ... Very tough.
I would probably upgrade.

AUandAG

Continue to work on your set....get the expensive ones after you set is completed (upgrade down the road).

bob
PS: I've been working on my buffalo set since the mid 1950's. All from circulation and have not added one to the set in over 50 years. Recently thought about completing it as I need less than a dozen coins but decided to put that off too. What is the point now? Just buying them off ebay or fellow forum members is not exciting enough to do so.

koynekwest

@Connecticoin said:

@BuffaloIronTail said:
Go for the 1921-S. It's a one year type coin, very scarce, and can be found really nicely struck with some searching.

It's actually the only year where serifs appear on the ones in the date.

I just plain like it.

Pete

I never realized until now that 1921 was the only year with serifs on the "1"s. It's a great look, such a shame they did not do that going forward.

There was also some work done on the braid as shown by cocoinut above. The hair detail was extensively improved. This is a one year variety as Pete says. No other date in the series has braid detailing like the 1921-P and S and in addition to the date serifs.

MsMorrisine

I'm biased by not being a registry set builder.

lots of good advice here already.

plan to lose money is better than thinking of making an investment.
buy what pleases you most

koynekwest

@Cocoinut said:
I'm intrigued by the level of detail in the hair above the tie for the braid found on some 1921 Buffaloes. The Philadelphia coins have it as well, and MS65's can be found in the $600-700 range. I haven't noticed any other dates that have this, not even proofs.

Jim

All 1921 Buffs from both Mints show this enhanced braid detail. Dateless 1921 P and S coins can be identified from this feature alone.

resloan

Thank you to all of you that replied to the question. Keep the comments coming. I did not know about the hair braid and the serif on the 1921. Fantastic information and still learning.

koynekwest

If you're looking for a nice representative of the series I would go for an early die state and fully struck 1913-P or D Variety one, a 1915, a 1921, or for a less expensive option a high MS grade 1938-D, maybe an MS67. For something esoteric you might want to try an XF 1935 doubled die reverse or a VG 1936-D 3 1/2 legged variety. Both of the last two are rarer than any of the dates you cite.

The differing detail on the 1921 is not often recognized so most collectors are unaware of it.

breakdown

My advice is to go to the Angel Dees website and buy the best coin you can afford off of Andy's website. He is the preeminent Buffalo dealer and someone I bought a good number from when I was putting my set together years ago.
You can also drool over some of his high dollar examples -- he has handled some of the finest Buffalos over the years.
Good luck!

LRCTom

If your goal is a high-grade registry set, the only two of those four that you mentioned that would fall in that price range are the 1931-S and the 1913-S (Ty,1). The 21-S and 26-S in high grade will be very pricey.

koynekwest

Here is a comparison of the 1921 braid detail compared to the braid detail found on other dates. The coin shown is a fully struck 1923.

And here is a closeup of the date, clearly showing the serifs on the 1921. The 1921 dime and quarter also have a differently configured date.

ricko

You have some dates in mind. Now go to dealer websites (I would recommend shows, but they are scarce right now) and look at those dates. Select the one that captures your interest the most - quality, detail etc. Good luck, Cheers, RickO

jesbroken

I've always been partial to 13's T1 for the chiseled look of the fields. For a$600 investment I would get a nice MS66 1913 D T1 Buffalo and enjoy holding and seeing its beauty. Couple on Ebay now in that range. Here is one from CoinFacts an MS66. Such a beautiful specimen.
Jim

JeffersonFrog

First of all, welcome to the Boards.

My suggestion(s). Knowledge is power, so do as much research as you can tolerate. Posting here was a good idea. There are some really knowledgeable, nationally respected folks here who are willing to share their wisdom and experience.

And yet their opinions differ. There is no right or wrong to your question, only different.

Personally, I agree with the don't buy as an investment philosophy (if your question included buying gold, I might have a slightly different view). I like to think of acquiring my nickels as, "buying something I enjoy that sometime later in life can be sold for some amount".

I like the higher grade path. In my limited experience, if you change direction and want to liquidate, nicer gem examples are easier to sell. So in your example, I would lean toward the T1 1913-S or 1931-S. I also just like the gem coins better.
My problem is that my eyes are bigger than my stomach. There are not too many coins prettier than a gorgeous MS65 Buffalo - however, dropping $200k - $300k to complete an MS65 set is just not going to happen in my world.

My last suggestion: don't buy the first one you see. Holding it in hand is almost always better, so if you live somewhere where this is an option, take advantage of it. If you are not already aware, beware of Internet pictures. They can be very misleading. I don't buy from people who do not accept returns.

Of course, these are just my thoughts. Welcome aboard, and good luck.

koynekwest

From a design point of view you just can't beat the Variety One coins. I will agree with Jim on this one-the 1913-D Var 1 in MS66 would be an excellent choice. Try to get one that's fully struck like the one he shows.

BuffaloIronTail

@koynekwest said:
From a design point of view you just can't beat the Variety One coins. I will agree with Jim on this one-the 1913-D Var 1 in MS66 would be an excellent choice. Try to get one that's fully struck like the one he shows.

Yep. 1913-D Type 1 has been mentioned to be a good candidate for Type Sets due to its superior strike qualities.

Pete

koynekwest

And BTW-from one Buffalo nickel lover to another-welcome!

crazyhounddog

@breakdown said:
My advice is to go to the Angel Dees website and buy the best coin you can afford off of Andy's website. He is the preeminent Buffalo dealer and someone I bought a good number from when I was putting my set together years ago.
You can also drool over some of his high dollar examples -- he has handled some of the finest Buffalos over the years.
Good luck!

I cannot agree more. When it comes to buffalo nickels Andy at Angel Dee’s is the man. A true expert and the only man I trust when it comes to buffalo nickels. His inventory is next to none. I have MANY buffalo nickel in my collection I purchased from this good man.

crazyhounddog

I bought this GORGEOUS 21 buff from Andy about 10 years ago and is still one of my favorite coins of all time and my avatar . The strike is without question HAMMERED and the color is a neon green just as the pic shows. It is something to behold in hand.
Happy hunting, Joe

ChrisH821

@jesbroken said:
I've always been partial to 13's T1 for the chiseled look of the fields. For a$600 investment I would get a nice MS66 1913 D T1 Buffalo and enjoy holding and seeing its beauty. Couple on Ebay now in that range. Here is one from CoinFacts an MS66. Such a beautiful specimen.
Jim

Hey I recognize that coin, nice choice!
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/alltimeset/193978

jesbroken

Wow, your a lucky man ChrisH821. Beautiful Registry set. I had one of the nicest 35's San Fran mint and for some reason it rusted. I own many buffaloes and never had one rust like that before. Just mentioned as I see you are short a 35 in your gorgeous set.
Jim

ChrisH821

@jesbroken said:
Wow, your a lucky man ChrisH821. Beautiful Registry set. I had one of the nicest 35's San Fran mint and for some reason it rusted. I own many buffaloes and never had one rust like that before. Just mentioned as I see you are short a 35 in your gorgeous set.
Jim

Thanks! I have a couple of holes to fill and some I want to upgrade. 1924 is proving difficult to find with a look that I like and I might be being too selective on 1935's. I do have a couple in NGC holders but I don't think the cost to get them in PCGS plastic is quite justified. One of the most important factors to me now is strike, so there are a few in there that aren't quite up to par and will slowly be replaced if I happen upon better ones.
The Buffalo Nickel date set is very approachable vs the full date/MM set. I think the most expensive coin in mine, excluding the 37-D 3 leg, was right around the $600 range as mentioned in the OP. Compared to certain date/MM combinations that would be 5 figure coins in the 64-65 grade range, the date set is definitely a bargain and realistic for just about any collector.

koynekwest

I have a high color Mint State date set, A full set with Mint marks is beyond my financial means. I do have all the major varieties, tho, including some, like the 1913 Var 1 3 1/2 legged, that are not usually included in the traditional varieties.

Assembling a date set will save you thousands.

jesbroken

@koynekwest said:
I have a high color Mint State date set, A full set with Mint marks is beyond my financial means. I do have all the major varieties, tho, including some, like the 1913 Var 1 3 1/2 legged, that are not usually included in the traditional varieties.

Assembling a date set will save you thousands.

Ron, would love to see your high color Mint State set.
Jim

Elcontador

Whatever you do, buy a coin you like and keep it. Upgrading a set is the best way to part with with your money. The spread is anywhere from 10-25% (or more) each time you buy or sell a coin, unless you can go through a private party.

S Mint Buffs from the early - mid 1920s have mushy strikes. The 13S Type 1 is well struck. It depends on what you like and how much you want to spend. As others mentioned, if you want a drop dead gorgeous type coin, get a 38 D in MS 67. Prices have come down on them in the last few years. You can get an attractive MS 66 of that date for $50, possibly less.

koynekwest

Jim-

I will PM pics to you.

clarkbar04

$600 would get him a nice down payment on a buff at Angel Dee's.