Original Standing Liberty Quarters
mightyhunter
Posts: 478 ✭✭✭
I originally posted this in the wrong forum. I have a couple of Standing Liberty Quarter Registry Sets. My question was what do you prefer, original coins or dipped white coins? I prefer original coins and find it difficult to find them. I concede that original coins are not for everybody.
7
Comments
Mixed feelings.....I love the 21 and 20D, but the other two are a tad too crusty for my taste, though I can appreciate them.
The white ones don't do much for me, unless the luster is blazing, then they are a sight to behold. I drooled over a set on display at FUN that a dealer had on consignment.
My real preference is for those with nice luster and some colorful toning - also very hard to find!
What about the additional option of original, un-dipped examples, which are also color-free?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Nah...this has been the week of people trying to make absolutes out of the relative.
What about blast white dipped versus formerly dipped but now crusty "original-looking" coins?
What about a blast white MS66 that was dipped versus a crusty VF20?
Your answer on the other CAC thread applies everywhere: it depends on the two coins being compared. I've seen toned coins where TO ME (important emphasis) the toning added nothing and was more distracting than anything. I've also seen toned coins where to me the toning really highlighted the features. And I've seen blast white coins that just were dazzling. It's all relative, always.
Generally I prefer original surfaces, not dipped coins, but there are exceptions. Sometimes the toning is ugly, and if you can remove it, and make the coin look better, go for it. It takes an experienced eye to spot such pieces, however.
Sometimes the toning makes the coin dull and lifeless. That 1921 quarter in the OP might perk up a little if it were to be dipped, but that also might make the rub, which made an AU, more obvious too. Since it already has CAC approval, I can't see messing with it.
You run the risk of making coins with deep toning look awful. Removing heavy toning requires the removal of more metal, and sometimes the stuff does not dip of the coin, which makes it look worse. I would think about before you mess with the three darkly toned pieces you posted. My advice would be to leave them alone.
I like the look of the 1921 and the 1930 in this thread a lot. To me, they appear to have a light, original skin. If I were a collector in this series, I'd seek coins like that.
I like both though I tend to prefer a nicely toned one with good eye appeal.
This one pictured has great luster and a few people have thought it's a gold coin! I like it better than a "Blast White" MS64 I have.
A blast white, fully frosted with no rub SL quarter is one of the most beautiful coins ever! You can keep your bright silver, dull gray, brown, and all the other color "original" coins to yourselves because they hurt my eyes!
Luster is what I look for above all else. Toning is fine, as long as attractive and not too dark.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
I judge each coin individually. Some designs can look better with age/commerce....some do not. I am not a fan of tarnish - particularly gaudy or nasty, blotchy stuff. Honest crust can be attractive. For me, it is how the coin satisfies my particular sense of aesthetics. The term 'eye appeal' has been applied - and even used in grading - which is term I can both appreciate and yet do not believe it should be part of a coin's grade. Discussions such as this, totally justify that opinion, since so many differ on what is attractive - or ugly. Cheers, RickO
Better not look, Insider2 - this has 'all the other colors' rolled into one coin -
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Bad transactions with : nobody to date
Actually, I can also appreciate environmentally damaged coins such as yours. Nevertheless, as I posted earlier, when this coin left the press in "Blast White" condition, I'd appreciate it much more.
I had a nicer blazer with the same rainbow but coming the other direction, eagle flying into it, that came from the same old album - unfortunately a forum member 'needed' it and out it went.
But like I posted, I generally never thought much about the white SLQs, until I saw those coins at FUN. There was a 21P in a PC 65 or 6 holder that just freakin glowed in the case, the cartwheels were dancing off of it. If I was foregoing all else and doing a box of 20, that would have been an excellent candidate.
Nice coins
I tend to agree with most of the comments here, but not all. I prefer original surfaces on most coins, but the toning of SLQs tends to be all over the map. I like the look of the 1918-D, but these coins are actually pretty difficult to find. Any coin that is AU50 or so or below should definitely not be bright white, but when you look at a lot of VF/XF coins they've been dipped or cleaned or stripped of their original surfaces and skin. I do like SLQs that are frosty and white, but they need to be uncirculated. Here's a nice, original AU53.
- Jim
From my Grandfather
All nice examples of this coin
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i like original coins, white or toned. I thought this coin looks pretty cool
and I sure miss this one
This one seems to be original-
Here’s my type example and the most attractive look I’ve found for a SLQ. Bright luster with nice peripheral color.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
I have two Standing Liberty Quarters in my Type collection; Type I has some nice tone and a really nice strike, Type II is more of a blast white.
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Let's define "original." For example, can an "original" coin have hairlines or corrosion spots?
@Kirk222 , I bought it that way. I wanted a SLQ back in my collection.
This is such an intricate design, and some kinds of toning bring out the details beautifully...
Superb specimen to show how the details really are brought out with toning.
What a beautiful coin!