@Kevin118 said:
Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?
During the period when these were added to the dies after the hubbing, it is not uncommon to move around a little bit.
There is nothing there worth saving much less slabbing.
The coins you have posted are nothing but spending money. Please buy a copy of "The Guide Book of United States Coins" (the Red Book), 73rd edition, 2020 and read it cover to cover. This forum has had many new posters recently who appear to have picked up bad information from various on-line sites. Reading this book will help avoid the bad information that is floating around on the web.
Welcome! And definitely buy a Red Book and get familiar with it. Also take a look at our host’s website: https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts
You can look up a particular coin, see what the coin looks like in various grades and what the pricing looks like. It’s a great resource, especially when you’re starting out.
If you have any coin shows in your area it would be great to go and just see what is out there. The best way to learn (and spend money, lol) is to see stuff the good stuff.
@Kevin118....Welcome aboard.... Those coins have no numismatic value...just pocket change. As recommended above, get the Redbook...This is a great hobby and you will need to learn a bit - as we all did when we were beginning coin collectors...Good luck, Cheers, RickO
I say yes, send them to PCGS to be graded. perhaps that will help in developing your grading skills and cause you to take pause before moving forward in the Hobby. remember, no free lunches in this life, we commonly refer to what you are attempting to do as "getting an education" or paying tuition.
again, no free lunches. coming here as you have and asking us this question allows you to either be rewarded if things work out your way(which it won't) or to have someone to blame when things go badly. please, if Coin Collecting and Numismatics interests you, take about 5-10 years of looking around, studying, asking questions, learning slowly and then maybe you will be poised to gain confidence in what you're doing.
Might I suggest attending a few coin shows and looking at the graded coins that are for sale by venders. You will, over time, get an eye for what other people actually get graded. Once you develop an eye for "grading" you will be on your way to a lot of fun!
bob
Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
@Kevin118 said:
Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?
Drunk isn't the word that comes to mind.
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
Below is the exchange I had on another forum with the OP regarding his 1983 half dollar.
Me: “No, you should not have the coin graded. Even as an uncirculated coin, it’s probably not worth more than face value.”
Him: “It says 68+ is around 3,850 is it not high enough grade?”
Me: “68+ is irrelevant, as the coin wouldn’t grade nearly that high. What do MS63, MS64 and MS65 examples list at and what do they actually typically actually sell for? You also need to take grading and postage fees into account.”
“If you were even looking at values for an MS68+, you’re not being realistic or displaying adequate grading skills. Did you check the population reports and see what percentage of such coins have graded 67, 68 and higher?
I’m not trying to give you a hard time. But I am trying to save you from throwing money away and from experiencing big disappointments.”
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@Kevin118 said:
Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?
Please do your homework, ask questions before spending a good chunk of change on coins. good luck
It’s your money brother do what ever you feel like but I warn you getting stuff graded can be mentally frustrating especially if you don’t do well make you rethink everything about collecting
@MFeld said:
Below is the exchange I had on another forum with the OP regarding his 1983 half dollar.
Me: “No, you should not have the coin graded. Even as an uncirculated coin, it’s probably not worth more than face value.”
Him: “It says 68+ is around 3,850 is it not high enough grade?”
Me: “68+ is irrelevant, as the coin wouldn’t grade nearly that high. What do MS63, MS64 and MS65 examples list at and what do they actually typically actually sell for? You also need to take grading and postage fees into account.”
“If you were even looking at values for an MS68+, you’re not being realistic or displaying adequate grading skills. Did you check the population reports and see what percentage of such coins have graded 67, 68 and higher?
I’m not trying to give you a hard time. But I am trying to save you from throwing money away and from experiencing big disappointments.”
Its funny how some people focus in on the upper end of the scale when looking at coin values. A dangerous combination of inexperience and wishful thinking.
Others have said it all. " There's nothing to see here "
Buy a " Red Book " Go to a few shows and look at coins. Specifically 3rd party graded ( TPG ) coins. I mean really LOOK at the surfaces, both good and bad areas, luster, eye appeal, strike, etc. After attending a few shows, start looking at TPG coins without looking at the grade. Make your best guess as to numeric grade, then look at the label. How close are you ? To me, that's the way to learn.
Can some of you old salty dogs opine on the grades? A thorough review would be appreciated as opposed to just a number.
Is there a cheat sheet, listing, or attributes to use in roll hunting?
Also, a broader comment, the inputs and comments you leave are invaluable and appreciated. Were they overly crass or curt you’d be dooming you’re grandkids to selling for melt.
@bombtech25 said:
Can some of you old salty dogs opine on the grades? A thorough review would be appreciated as opposed to just a number.
Is there a cheat sheet, listing, or attributes to use in roll hunting?
Also, a broader comment, the inputs and comments you leave are invaluable and appreciated. Were they overly crass or curt you’d be dooming you’re grandkids to selling for melt.
Very good advise posted! Here's an example if you still prefer to grade a Jefferson. Here is a 1968s. Wouldn't this '68s be a much better coin, to even think about grading than your's?
Notice the difference? That being said, still is unadvised to grade.
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.
@keets said:
I say yes, send them to PCGS to be graded. perhaps that will help in developing your grading skills and cause you to take pause before moving forward in the Hobby. remember, no free lunches in this life, we commonly refer to what you are attempting to do as "getting an education" or paying tuition.
again, no free lunches. coming here as you have and asking us this question allows you to either be rewarded if things work out your way(which it won't) or to have someone to blame when things go badly. please, if Coin Collecting and Numismatics interests you, take about 5-10 years of looking around, studying, asking questions, learning slowly and then maybe you will be poised to gain confidence in what you're doing.
In some cases, I might agree with @keets, but not here. These coins aren't "liners" and the education received from submitting would not nearly be worth the cost. Instead, head over to CoinFacts and have a look at very high grade examples for comparison. You'll save a bunch of money and time!
Hi Kevin, Heed the advice these members are giving you.
They are the best in the world and know what they are talking about.
I was in your shoes 5 years ago, every coin I saw was special.
My suggestion would be to slow down a bit, and spend a year reading books and asking questions on this forum before you even consider submitting coins for grading.
Membership Fee to PCGS + Grading fees + shipping can easily run into $250
A good idea would be to Buy a MS65 Lincoln Cent, Roosevelt Dime, Jefferson Nickel, Washington Quarter and Kennedy Half. All of these can be purchased for $15 or less on eBay.
This will give you examples of high grade coins that you can look at and study without spending a lot of money upfront, hoping to hit a homerun on day 2 of coin collecting
All of these posts (the ones that have a realistic reason NOT to grade) should all be written in a book! This would be a great learning specimen text for other green collectors. Let's do it and share the proceeds. LOL Really, our Forum rocks!
How about a title? Suggestions ? Here's mine; Learning the when's and why's to grade a certain coin
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.
@MFeld said:
Below is the exchange I had on another forum with the OP regarding his 1983 half dollar.
Me: “No, you should not have the coin graded. Even as an uncirculated coin, it’s probably not worth more than face value.”
Him: “It says 68+ is around 3,850 is it not high enough grade?”
Me: “68+ is irrelevant, as the coin wouldn’t grade nearly that high. What do MS63, MS64 and MS65 examples list at and what do they actually typically actually sell for? You also need to take grading and postage fees into account.”
“If you were even looking at values for an MS68+, you’re not being realistic or displaying adequate grading skills. Did you check the population reports and see what percentage of such coins have graded 67, 68 and higher?
I’m not trying to give you a hard time. But I am trying to save you from throwing money away and from experiencing big disappointments.”
Well, that explains the 1983 half. What about those two nickels? Are they supposed to be rare varieties? Cuz you couldn't ever be drunk enough to think they might 68...
Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?
@TurtleCat said:
Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?
@TurtleCat said:
Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?
@TurtleCat said:
Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?
It’s the former. I read some of these threads and they’re cringeworthy. A general, old man grumpiness underlies a good chunk of the discussion and around every corner lurks someone ready to snipe at someone else should they misspeak or not be 100% clear about the subtle variations produced by some half drunk mint worker 70 years ago. Start a new account and try calling toning environmental damage or vice versa. Somebody will be ready to scold you with chapter and verse from the Red Book.
Numismatics isn’t dying. It’s being murdered.
Is there no newcomer category with tools, FAQs, etc? Some of you guys are ridiculously helpful but it might be good to keep the heathens away from those still learning.
Comments
Sorry they uploaded funky dull cent is 1968 d Lincoln cent and shine is 1983 d Lincoln cent
I would not recommend it.
Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value. Zero. Voltaire. Ebay coinbowlllc
Don't grade coins while you are drinking on New Years Eve,,,,,
Probably not.
no.
And flush a couple hundred dollars down the toilet while you're at it.
It would be a waste of money and effort. Nothing special here.
Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?
During the period when these were added to the dies after the hubbing, it is not uncommon to move around a little bit.
There is nothing there worth saving much less slabbing.
The coins you have posted are nothing but spending money. Please buy a copy of "The Guide Book of United States Coins" (the Red Book), 73rd edition, 2020 and read it cover to cover. This forum has had many new posters recently who appear to have picked up bad information from various on-line sites. Reading this book will help avoid the bad information that is floating around on the web.
Welcome! And definitely buy a Red Book and get familiar with it. Also take a look at our host’s website: https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts
You can look up a particular coin, see what the coin looks like in various grades and what the pricing looks like. It’s a great resource, especially when you’re starting out.
If you have any coin shows in your area it would be great to go and just see what is out there. The best way to learn (and spend money, lol) is to see stuff the good stuff.
TurtleCat Gold Dollars
Most TPGS would probably say yes, I'd say no.
@Kevin118....Welcome aboard.... Those coins have no numismatic value...just pocket change. As recommended above, get the Redbook...This is a great hobby and you will need to learn a bit - as we all did when we were beginning coin collectors...Good luck, Cheers, RickO
No, and it's OK to spend these coins.
Ah, now I get it - you think it's April fools day? Happy New years day and welcome to our group. A little humor is appreciated imho.
Absolutely not.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
No.
Are you sure? I've never seen a nickel that looks like either one of those in a slab. It would be UNIQUE!
Welcome to the forum @Kevin118.
Comeback to this thread after you sober up.
Pretty sure, yup, pretty sure.
I say yes, send them to PCGS to be graded. perhaps that will help in developing your grading skills and cause you to take pause before moving forward in the Hobby. remember, no free lunches in this life, we commonly refer to what you are attempting to do as "getting an education" or paying tuition.
again, no free lunches. coming here as you have and asking us this question allows you to either be rewarded if things work out your way(which it won't) or to have someone to blame when things go badly. please, if Coin Collecting and Numismatics interests you, take about 5-10 years of looking around, studying, asking questions, learning slowly and then maybe you will be poised to gain confidence in what you're doing.
Might I suggest attending a few coin shows and looking at the graded coins that are for sale by venders. You will, over time, get an eye for what other people actually get graded. Once you develop an eye for "grading" you will be on your way to a lot of fun!
bob
Drunk isn't the word that comes to mind.
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
Out of all the coins you've seen, why did you choose these?
Welcome. Save your money and buy some good numismatic books. I started with the Red book way back when.
100% Positive BST transactions
You can use smaller pictures with all the coins in one shot. At the very least, crop out the wasted space around the coin.
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
Below is the exchange I had on another forum with the OP regarding his 1983 half dollar.
Me: “No, you should not have the coin graded. Even as an uncirculated coin, it’s probably not worth more than face value.”
Him: “It says 68+ is around 3,850 is it not high enough grade?”
Me: “68+ is irrelevant, as the coin wouldn’t grade nearly that high. What do MS63, MS64 and MS65 examples list at and what do they actually typically actually sell for? You also need to take grading and postage fees into account.”
“If you were even looking at values for an MS68+, you’re not being realistic or displaying adequate grading skills. Did you check the population reports and see what percentage of such coins have graded 67, 68 and higher?
I’m not trying to give you a hard time. But I am trying to save you from throwing money away and from experiencing big disappointments.”
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Please do your homework, ask questions before spending a good chunk of change on coins. good luck
These are not mutually exclusive
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
It’s your money brother do what ever you feel like but I warn you getting stuff graded can be mentally frustrating especially if you don’t do well make you rethink everything about collecting
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/publishedset/209923
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/album/209923
Its funny how some people focus in on the upper end of the scale when looking at coin values. A dangerous combination of inexperience and wishful thinking.
Others have said it all. " There's nothing to see here "
Buy a " Red Book " Go to a few shows and look at coins. Specifically 3rd party graded ( TPG ) coins. I mean really LOOK at the surfaces, both good and bad areas, luster, eye appeal, strike, etc. After attending a few shows, start looking at TPG coins without looking at the grade. Make your best guess as to numeric grade, then look at the label. How close are you ? To me, that's the way to learn.
Can some of you old salty dogs opine on the grades? A thorough review would be appreciated as opposed to just a number.
Is there a cheat sheet, listing, or attributes to use in roll hunting?
Also, a broader comment, the inputs and comments you leave are invaluable and appreciated. Were they overly crass or curt you’d be dooming you’re grandkids to selling for melt.
What you’re looking for is something like the ANA grading guide: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0794838243
Or the photograde book: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0307993612
Or use our host’s website which has images available on most coins and grades: https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts
TurtleCat Gold Dollars
Those are inconsequential pocket change without Numismatic value or interest... no brainer.
Coin roll hunting almost never pays off, with the very occasional exception of a 90% silver coin.
Very good advise posted! Here's an example if you still prefer to grade a Jefferson. Here is a 1968s. Wouldn't this '68s be a much better coin, to even think about grading than your's?
Notice the difference? That being said, still is unadvised to grade.
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.In some cases, I might agree with @keets, but not here. These coins aren't "liners" and the education received from submitting would not nearly be worth the cost. Instead, head over to CoinFacts and have a look at very high grade examples for comparison. You'll save a bunch of money and time!
What about your special jar?
They aren't even good enough for "the jar".
Hi Kevin, Heed the advice these members are giving you.
They are the best in the world and know what they are talking about.
I was in your shoes 5 years ago, every coin I saw was special.
My suggestion would be to slow down a bit, and spend a year reading books and asking questions on this forum before you even consider submitting coins for grading.
Membership Fee to PCGS + Grading fees + shipping can easily run into $250
A good idea would be to Buy a MS65 Lincoln Cent, Roosevelt Dime, Jefferson Nickel, Washington Quarter and Kennedy Half. All of these can be purchased for $15 or less on eBay.
This will give you examples of high grade coins that you can look at and study without spending a lot of money upfront, hoping to hit a homerun on day 2 of coin collecting
All of these posts (the ones that have a realistic reason NOT to grade) should all be written in a book! This would be a great learning specimen text for other green collectors. Let's do it and share the proceeds. LOL Really, our Forum rocks!
How about a title? Suggestions ? Here's mine;
Learning the when's and why's to grade a certain coin
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.Well, that explains the 1983 half. What about those two nickels? Are they supposed to be rare varieties? Cuz you couldn't ever be drunk enough to think they might 68...
Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?
TurtleCat Gold Dollars
Better hope it is the latter and not the former.
Yes
If you look closely at the **Half Dollar ** On the bottom of the half dollar you can see a doubling. I think it might be a DDR (double die reverse)
It’s the former. I read some of these threads and they’re cringeworthy. A general, old man grumpiness underlies a good chunk of the discussion and around every corner lurks someone ready to snipe at someone else should they misspeak or not be 100% clear about the subtle variations produced by some half drunk mint worker 70 years ago. Start a new account and try calling toning environmental damage or vice versa. Somebody will be ready to scold you with chapter and verse from the Red Book.
Numismatics isn’t dying. It’s being murdered.
Is there no newcomer category with tools, FAQs, etc? Some of you guys are ridiculously helpful but it might be good to keep the heathens away from those still learning.