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Should I have any of these graded?

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  • Kevin118Kevin118 Posts: 10
    edited December 31, 2019 11:39PM




    Sorry they uploaded funky dull cent is 1968 d Lincoln cent and shine is 1983 d Lincoln cent

  • privatecoinprivatecoin Posts: 3,449 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would not recommend it.

    Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value. Zero. Voltaire. Ebay coinbowlllc

  • JimnightJimnight Posts: 10,846 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Probably not.

  • au58au58 Posts: 1,288 ✭✭✭

    no.

  • ExbritExbrit Posts: 1,310 ✭✭✭✭

    It would be a waste of money and effort. Nothing special here.

  • Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 34,758 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Kevin118 said:
    Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?

    During the period when these were added to the dies after the hubbing, it is not uncommon to move around a little bit.

    There is nothing there worth saving much less slabbing.

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,611 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Welcome! And definitely buy a Red Book and get familiar with it. Also take a look at our host’s website: https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts

    You can look up a particular coin, see what the coin looks like in various grades and what the pricing looks like. It’s a great resource, especially when you’re starting out.

    If you have any coin shows in your area it would be great to go and just see what is out there. The best way to learn (and spend money, lol) is to see stuff the good stuff.

  • CCGGGCCGGG Posts: 1,267 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Most TPGS would probably say yes, I'd say no.

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Kevin118....Welcome aboard.... Those coins have no numismatic value...just pocket change. As recommended above, get the Redbook...This is a great hobby and you will need to learn a bit - as we all did when we were beginning coin collectors...Good luck, Cheers, RickO

  • matt_dacmatt_dac Posts: 961 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No, and it's OK to spend these coins.

  • jedmjedm Posts: 3,042 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Ah, now I get it - you think it's April fools day? Happy New years day and welcome to our group. A little humor is appreciated imho.

  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,430 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Absolutely not.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • SmudgeSmudge Posts: 9,559 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No.

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 34,758 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Smudge said:
    No.

    Are you sure? I've never seen a nickel that looks like either one of those in a slab. It would be UNIQUE!

  • HemisphericalHemispherical Posts: 9,370 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Welcome to the forum @Kevin118.

    Comeback to this thread after you sober up. :D:)

  • SmudgeSmudge Posts: 9,559 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @Smudge said:
    No.

    Are you sure? I've never seen a nickel that looks like either one of those in a slab. It would be UNIQUE!

    Pretty sure, yup, pretty sure.

  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I say yes, send them to PCGS to be graded. perhaps that will help in developing your grading skills and cause you to take pause before moving forward in the Hobby. remember, no free lunches in this life, we commonly refer to what you are attempting to do as "getting an education" or paying tuition.

    again, no free lunches. coming here as you have and asking us this question allows you to either be rewarded if things work out your way(which it won't) or to have someone to blame when things go badly. please, if Coin Collecting and Numismatics interests you, take about 5-10 years of looking around, studying, asking questions, learning slowly and then maybe you will be poised to gain confidence in what you're doing.

  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,792 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Might I suggest attending a few coin shows and looking at the graded coins that are for sale by venders. You will, over time, get an eye for what other people actually get graded. Once you develop an eye for "grading" you will be on your way to a lot of fun!

    bob :)

    Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
  • SwampboySwampboy Posts: 13,010 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Kevin118 said:
    Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?

    Drunk isn't the word that comes to mind.

    "Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso

  • MasonGMasonG Posts: 6,261 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Out of all the coins you've seen, why did you choose these?

  • metalmeistermetalmeister Posts: 4,586 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Welcome. Save your money and buy some good numismatic books. I started with the Red book way back when.

    email: ccacollectibles@yahoo.com

    100% Positive BST transactions
  • ms70ms70 Posts: 13,954 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 10:07AM

    You can use smaller pictures with all the coins in one shot. At the very least, crop out the wasted space around the coin.

    Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.

  • silverman68silverman68 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭

    @Kevin118 said:
    Thanks I appreciate the help I am brand new to coin collecting, Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?

    Please do your homework, ask questions before spending a good chunk of change on coins. good luck

  • P0CKETCHANGEP0CKETCHANGE Posts: 2,586 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Kevin118 said:
    Am I drunk or is the S mint mark on this 69 s higher then the d mint mark on the 69?



    These are not mutually exclusive ;)

    Nothing is as expensive as free money.

  • jabbajabba Posts: 3,176 ✭✭✭✭✭
  • JBKJBK Posts: 15,737 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @MFeld said:
    Below is the exchange I had on another forum with the OP regarding his 1983 half dollar.

    Me: “No, you should not have the coin graded. Even as an uncirculated coin, it’s probably not worth more than face value.”

    Him: “It says 68+ is around 3,850 is it not high enough grade?”

    Me: “68+ is irrelevant, as the coin wouldn’t grade nearly that high. What do MS63, MS64 and MS65 examples list at and what do they actually typically actually sell for? You also need to take grading and postage fees into account.”

    “If you were even looking at values for an MS68+, you’re not being realistic or displaying adequate grading skills. Did you check the population reports and see what percentage of such coins have graded 67, 68 and higher?

    I’m not trying to give you a hard time. But I am trying to save you from throwing money away and from experiencing big disappointments.”

    Its funny how some people focus in on the upper end of the scale when looking at coin values. A dangerous combination of inexperience and wishful thinking.

  • Tom147Tom147 Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Others have said it all. " There's nothing to see here "
    Buy a " Red Book " Go to a few shows and look at coins. Specifically 3rd party graded ( TPG ) coins. I mean really LOOK at the surfaces, both good and bad areas, luster, eye appeal, strike, etc. After attending a few shows, start looking at TPG coins without looking at the grade. Make your best guess as to numeric grade, then look at the label. How close are you ? To me, that's the way to learn.

  • bombtech25bombtech25 Posts: 209 ✭✭✭

    Can some of you old salty dogs opine on the grades? A thorough review would be appreciated as opposed to just a number.

    Is there a cheat sheet, listing, or attributes to use in roll hunting?

    Also, a broader comment, the inputs and comments you leave are invaluable and appreciated. Were they overly crass or curt you’d be dooming you’re grandkids to selling for melt.

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,611 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @bombtech25 said:
    Can some of you old salty dogs opine on the grades? A thorough review would be appreciated as opposed to just a number.

    Is there a cheat sheet, listing, or attributes to use in roll hunting?

    Also, a broader comment, the inputs and comments you leave are invaluable and appreciated. Were they overly crass or curt you’d be dooming you’re grandkids to selling for melt.

    What you’re looking for is something like the ANA grading guide: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0794838243

    Or the photograde book: https://www.amazon.com/dp/0307993612

    Or use our host’s website which has images available on most coins and grades: https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts

  • BillDugan1959BillDugan1959 Posts: 3,821 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Those are inconsequential pocket change without Numismatic value or interest... no brainer.

    Coin roll hunting almost never pays off, with the very occasional exception of a 90% silver coin.

  • joeykoinsjoeykoins Posts: 16,277 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 12:03PM

    Very good advise posted! Here's an example if you still prefer to grade a Jefferson. Here is a 1968s. Wouldn't this '68s be a much better coin, to even think about grading than your's?

    Notice the difference? That being said, still is unadvised to grade. ;)

    "Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!

    --- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.
  • CoinJunkieCoinJunkie Posts: 8,772 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @keets said:
    I say yes, send them to PCGS to be graded. perhaps that will help in developing your grading skills and cause you to take pause before moving forward in the Hobby. remember, no free lunches in this life, we commonly refer to what you are attempting to do as "getting an education" or paying tuition.

    again, no free lunches. coming here as you have and asking us this question allows you to either be rewarded if things work out your way(which it won't) or to have someone to blame when things go badly. please, if Coin Collecting and Numismatics interests you, take about 5-10 years of looking around, studying, asking questions, learning slowly and then maybe you will be poised to gain confidence in what you're doing.

    In some cases, I might agree with @keets, but not here. These coins aren't "liners" and the education received from submitting would not nearly be worth the cost. Instead, head over to CoinFacts and have a look at very high grade examples for comparison. You'll save a bunch of money and time!

  • SmudgeSmudge Posts: 9,559 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @BillDugan1959 said:
    Those are inconsequential pocket change without Numismatic value or interest... no brainer.

    Coin roll hunting almost never pays off, with the very occasional exception of a 90% silver coin.

    What about your special jar?

  • JBKJBK Posts: 15,737 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Smudge said:

    @BillDugan1959 said:
    Those are inconsequential pocket change without Numismatic value or interest... no brainer.

    Coin roll hunting almost never pays off, with the very occasional exception of a 90% silver coin.

    What about your special jar?

    They aren't even good enough for "the jar". :p

  • joeykoinsjoeykoins Posts: 16,277 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 3:46PM

    All of these posts (the ones that have a realistic reason NOT to grade) should all be written in a book! This would be a great learning specimen text for other green collectors. Let's do it and share the proceeds. LOL Really, our Forum rocks!
    How about a title? Suggestions ? Here's mine;
    Learning the when's and why's to grade a certain coin

    "Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!

    --- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.
  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 34,758 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @MFeld said:
    Below is the exchange I had on another forum with the OP regarding his 1983 half dollar.

    Me: “No, you should not have the coin graded. Even as an uncirculated coin, it’s probably not worth more than face value.”

    Him: “It says 68+ is around 3,850 is it not high enough grade?”

    Me: “68+ is irrelevant, as the coin wouldn’t grade nearly that high. What do MS63, MS64 and MS65 examples list at and what do they actually typically actually sell for? You also need to take grading and postage fees into account.”

    “If you were even looking at values for an MS68+, you’re not being realistic or displaying adequate grading skills. Did you check the population reports and see what percentage of such coins have graded 67, 68 and higher?

    I’m not trying to give you a hard time. But I am trying to save you from throwing money away and from experiencing big disappointments.”

    Well, that explains the 1983 half. What about those two nickels? Are they supposed to be rare varieties? Cuz you couldn't ever be drunk enough to think they might 68...

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,611 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 34,758 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TurtleCat said:
    Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?

    Better hope it is the latter and not the former.

  • HemisphericalHemispherical Posts: 9,370 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TurtleCat said:
    Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?

    Yes

  • markelman1125markelman1125 Posts: 1,858 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited January 1, 2020 7:31PM

    If you look closely at the **Half Dollar ** On the bottom of the half dollar you can see a doubling. I think it might be a DDR (double die reverse)

  • bombtech25bombtech25 Posts: 209 ✭✭✭

    @TurtleCat said:
    Am I crazy or does it seem like there are a lot of these types of posts asking for advice and the people never post again? Are they scared off by the responses or just hoping for treasure and disappointed and give up?

    It’s the former. I read some of these threads and they’re cringeworthy. A general, old man grumpiness underlies a good chunk of the discussion and around every corner lurks someone ready to snipe at someone else should they misspeak or not be 100% clear about the subtle variations produced by some half drunk mint worker 70 years ago. Start a new account and try calling toning environmental damage or vice versa. Somebody will be ready to scold you with chapter and verse from the Red Book.

    Numismatics isn’t dying. It’s being murdered.

    Is there no newcomer category with tools, FAQs, etc? Some of you guys are ridiculously helpful but it might be good to keep the heathens away from those still learning.

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