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Collecting Red Lincolns......
Tunis
Posts: 470 ✭✭✭✭
I have read, and saw posters who hinted, here on the site about $1000’s of dollars wasted by high end collectors, when these coins “spot” or “turn”. Can someone elaborate? I see nice Red Lincoln’s that have been slabbed in old holders. Am I OK to safely collect those? I am not looking for crazy high end grades, but I do prefer Red over Red/Brown. Thanks in advance.
Successful buys on BST board from NotSure, Nankraut, Yorkshireman, Astrorat, Ikeigwin(2x), Bob13, Outhaul, coinbuf, dpvilla, jayPem, Sean1990, TwoKopeiki, bidask, Downtown1974, drddm, nederveit2
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You can't trust coins with high copper content to stay the same. There is always a risk in paying big money for "red" copper. Was the coin sneezed on just before it was slabbed? How will it react to heat and humidity? etc.
IMO, a lot (maybe most) "RD" copper isn't actually RD at all. There are different shades of RD and most of the coins don't look much different than a RB anyway. I'd never pay a big premium for one, regardless of the coin or series.
There’s no guarantee that RD copper won’t turn/mellow and/or spot. However, chances of preservation can be significantly greater, depending upon storage conditions. And I’d rather have coins in older, rather than newer holders.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
All understood. So if they could move to RedBrown, might just start at that level to begin with? It is difficult to plan for as I would like to work on a matching set. I guess Brown could be an option. I have seen some beautiful Brown Lincoln’s posted here.
Successful buys on BST board from NotSure, Nankraut, Yorkshireman, Astrorat, Ikeigwin(2x), Bob13, Outhaul, coinbuf, dpvilla, jayPem, Sean1990, TwoKopeiki, bidask, Downtown1974, drddm, nederveit2
I’d focus less on the color designation, and more on the look of the coins and what appeals to you.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Thank you for the advice
Successful buys on BST board from NotSure, Nankraut, Yorkshireman, Astrorat, Ikeigwin(2x), Bob13, Outhaul, coinbuf, dpvilla, jayPem, Sean1990, TwoKopeiki, bidask, Downtown1974, drddm, nederveit2
Some copper will if stored properly stay red for decades, some change quickly there is just no way to be sure. Buying copper coins in older holders helps to comfort me as a buyer that the color is more stable, just not a guarantee. I store all my copper coins in the intercept shield products, again not a guarantee but I take every step possible. Bought this RB 1909 SVDB back in 1998 timeframe, hasn't changed at all since I bought it. Still in its rattler holder.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Anyone storing their copper in Intercept Shield products have personal experience to share?
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
Picked this up in the 80's and it still looks the same
If slabbed and stored in a stable environment, they can stay red, red/brown for many decades...providing there was nothing on the surface at slab time. For me, it is more the quality of the coin than the color...I do not care for tarnish at all.....Brown cents are fine since that really is the condition of most of them that we see every day. Cheers, RickO
I’d focus less on the color designation, and more on the look of the coins and what appeals to you
This.
@jrocco:
You were lucky to get that 65 designation on your 72DDO. I've noticed a lot of the 72's come really brilliant red on the obverse, but are really "banged up".
Mine is in an OGH PCGS 64RD and looks real similar to yours. Me thinks it is the luck of the draw.
Nice specimen bud.
Pete
You only need to ask yourself this question. How did a coin, say from 1890, survive in brilliant red condition for nearly 100 years PRIOR to encapsulation?
People only like to talk about the horror stories. What about the other millions? of copper coins that have not turned and are still red. I have stated this many times - I have been a RD and RB cent collector for 40 years and have never had one turn in the holder. Also, I do appreciate an old holder but don't need to buy RD coins in them exclusively. Don't be scared...
https://pcgs.com/setregistry/showcase/2819
If you’re implying that such coins can’t be original, you’re mistaken.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I do have a 1904 IHC that I purchased over 60 years ago, and it is still RD, and now slabbed as such. But the value assigned to RD coins has greatly increased the doctoring of BN and RB coins to be RD. Many copper coins graded RD have been dipped. If they look too good to be true........they probably are not original RD. 100+ year old RD is not the same as new RD modern coins.
OINK
I’d be very careful paying a large premium for full red copper, as it will likely naturally tone over time. How long? Who knows. 10 year? 20? Hard to say. I prefer red/brown myself.
Dave
That coin is amazing.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Unless it is quite modern, I don't collect red copper. I got burned a few times on large cents from the 1850s that turned on me months after I bought them. Who was playing with them to make the cents red, made it look convincing to the TPG and me. That's why NGC won't guarantee them anymore.
I have chosen to enjoy life and stay away from old, red copper. When I was working on a 1936 Proof set, I bought the brilliant and satin finish cents in Proof Brown and R&B. Ditto for the Mint State large cents I’ve collected.
The most extreme example of a coin turning was the 1963 Proof 70 Cameo cent. It was the top graded coin and traded among the registry oriented people for over $40,000 for it at auciton. The piece grew spots which made its real value considerably lower than that. I’m talking about a 2 figure value instead of a 5 figure price.
I have one stored in an intercept shield but I think it is bronze. It is a 1957 South Africa penny which has DCAM appearance on the obverse but not reverse. I have stored it this way since about 2005 and it has not changed.
Make sure that where you keep them has an A-1 HVAC system.