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Which 1794 Flowing Hair Half Dollar would you buy if they were priced the same?

Both coins are PCGS G06. You're going to buy one, they're the same variety, and they're both priced the same. Which do you pick?


Which 1794 Flowing Hair Half Dollar would you buy if they were priced the same?

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Comments

  • PhilLynottPhilLynott Posts: 895 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    Definitely the second one for me

  • NSPNSP Posts: 322 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    If I had only those two to choose between, I’d take the second one because I’m not a fan of the scratch on the first one. That said, I’m not a huge fan of the toning on the second one, but I’d prefer that toning over the scratch.

  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    I'd buy the second example and fix it >:) so it would be attractive.

  • coin22lovercoin22lover Posts: 3,542 ✭✭✭

    @Insider2 said:
    I'd buy the second example and fix it >:) so it would be attractive.

    Acetone?

  • NysotoNysoto Posts: 3,821 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 6, 2019 10:50AM

    This is not a poll choice but I would not buy either coin, as both are the most commonly found T-7/O.101 and there are currently better examples on the market from G4 to VG8.

    For a rare 1794 variety, I would choose the second coin. For an extremely rare (R-7 or R-8) 1794, I would be happy to have either coin.

    Robert Scot: Engraving Liberty - biography of US Mint's first chief engraver
  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    That is usually a good first step if you don't care about taking the "skin off a coin." Many attractive coins have been ruined when a light PVC skin has been removed.

  • lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,893 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I don't think you can make an inference from the price paid for the first coin seven years ago. We know what happened to the 1794 half dollar supply a couple of years ago. Today it would go for less than half that.

    If I owned the second coin I'd send it to PCGS for conservation and have it attributed since it's a scarcer die marriage.
    Lance.

  • opportunityopportunity Posts: 1,064 ✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    @Nysoto said:
    This is not a poll choice but I would not buy either coin, as both are the most commonly found T-7/O.101 and there are currently better examples on the market from G4 to VG8.

    For a rare 1794 variety, I would choose the second coin. For an extremely rare (R-7 or R-8) 1794, I would be happy to have either coin.

    Looks like you need to buy the book, as those are both O-102's and quite rare with about 14-15 known, according to the AMBPR. It doesn't look like any O-102's were a part of the 2018 hoard. The most recent 5 auctions (all Heritage) for the O-102 were:

    PCGS Genuine, Good, graffiti, $1560 (Feb. 2018)
    NGC Good, env. damamge, $3,525 (Sept. 2016)
    NGC VG, graffiti, $3,055 (April 2015)
    PCGS G06 (CAC) $12,925 (Nov. 2013)
    NGC AG, graffiti, $1,763 (Oct. 2012)
    PCGS G06, "old scratch in the left field obverse" (sounds like the top one), $7,245 (May 2012)

    To answer the question, other than the scratch, I like the surfaces better on the first example, but the scratch really bothers me. If it came down to it, I'd pick number 2.

    Early American Copper, Bust and Seated.

  • NysotoNysoto Posts: 3,821 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @opportunity, thanks, I needed that, I am usually more careful.

    Robert Scot: Engraving Liberty - biography of US Mint's first chief engraver
  • johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 29,129 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'll save my money as well jmo

  • WCCWCC Posts: 2,859 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 6, 2019 12:31PM
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    @Nysoto said:
    This is not a poll choice but I would not buy either coin, as both are the most commonly found T-7/O.101 and there are currently better examples on the market from G4 to VG8.

    For a rare 1794 variety, I would choose the second coin. For an extremely rare (R-7 or R-8) 1794, I would be happy to have either coin.

    This was also my actual opinion, for the same reason except that I do not care about die varieties.

  • This content has been removed.
  • goldengolden Posts: 9,984 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would pass on both. Wait for one that has no problems. There are plenty.

  • PickwickjrPickwickjr Posts: 556 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would also pass on both coins. Keep looking you’ll find one that speaks to you.

  • YorkshiremanYorkshireman Posts: 4,583 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Pickwickjr said:
    I would also pass on both coins. Keep looking you’ll find one that speaks to you.

    Absolutely

    Yorkshireman,Obsessed collector of round, metallic pieces of history.Hunting for Latin American colonial portraits plus cool US & British coins.
  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,709 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the first coin (top)

    I don't like either coin.

    Number one has a large gash in the obverse left facing field.

    Number two has less detail and ugly spotting.

    If my hand was forced; I'd pick number one, because it has fewer problems....

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    @Walkerfan said:
    I don't like either coin.

    Number one has a large gash in the obverse left facing field.

    Number two has less detail and ugly spotting.

    If my hand was forced; I'd pick number one, because it has fewer problems....

    When it comes to defects/impairments, the nature of the problem is most important.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,709 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the first coin (top)

    @Insider2 said:

    @Walkerfan said:
    I don't like either coin.

    Number one has a large gash in the obverse left facing field.

    Number two has less detail and ugly spotting.

    If my hand was forced; I'd pick number one, because it has fewer problems....

    When it comes to defects/impairments, the nature of the problem is most important.

    Spots can be removed but at what cost, as the coin would have to be conserved and then regraded. Is it worth it on a coin like that? My guess would be 'no'.

    Gashes can't be removed but detail can't be added, either, so that part is a wash.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    @Walkerfan said:

    @Insider2 said:

    @Walkerfan said:
    I don't like either coin.

    Number one has a large gash in the obverse left facing field.

    Number two has less detail and ugly spotting.

    If my hand was forced; I'd pick number one, because it has fewer problems....

    When it comes to defects/impairments, the nature of the problem is most important.

    Spots can be removed but at what cost, as the coin would have to be conserved and then regraded. Is it worth it on a coin like that? My guess would be 'no'.

    Gashes can't be removed but detail can't be added, either, so that part is a wash.

    This is not about cost or slabbing. Look at the poll. Folks prefer to own undamaged or "fixable coins. Besides, there are folks who routinely conserve their coins at no cost before sending the to a TPGS. The costly and not a DIY "fix" is scratch removals and 99.9 % of those repairs can be detected by someone.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,709 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the first coin (top)

    @Insider2 said:

    @Walkerfan said:

    @Insider2 said:

    @Walkerfan said:
    I don't like either coin.

    Number one has a large gash in the obverse left facing field.

    Number two has less detail and ugly spotting.

    If my hand was forced; I'd pick number one, because it has fewer problems....

    When it comes to defects/impairments, the nature of the problem is most important.

    Spots can be removed but at what cost, as the coin would have to be conserved and then regraded. Is it worth it on a coin like that? My guess would be 'no'.

    Gashes can't be removed but detail can't be added, either, so that part is a wash.

    This is not about cost or slabbing. Look at the poll. Folks prefer to own undamaged or "fixable coins. Besides, there are folks who routinely conserve their coins at no cost before sending the to a TPGS. The costly and not a DIY "fix" is scratch removals and 99.9 % of those repairs can be detected by someone.

    True, but you'd still have to pay grading fees and shipping costs. Also, badly worn coins are just as bad as damaged ones to me.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    Although I'm not fond of either if forced at gunpoint I'd take the second one.

    To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    I would choose the second coin...due mainly to the scratch on number one...Plus, the second one can be conserved. Cheers, RickO

  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 7, 2019 9:39AM
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    @Walkerfan said: "True, but you'd still have to pay grading fees [ONLY if someone wanted it in a slab and this coin does not need one] and shipping costs."

    @Walkerfan continued: "Also, badly worn coins are just as bad as damaged ones to me."

    Bless you my child, <3 Thankfully, you have the means to shun low grade coins in spite of their historical value or rarity. Hopefully, your status in life will only improve so you can shun anything below "Gem" condition. :)

  • carabonnaircarabonnair Posts: 1,444 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    Tough coin - I would be happy with either, but since the reverses are comparable, I would choose #2 because I find the obverse scratch too distracting. I also think the face detail on #2 Liberty is better.

  • divecchiadivecchia Posts: 6,688 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would chose neither, as I could not live with either coin.

    I did not vote as I would chose different depending on the circumstance even if priced the same. IF I HAD TO CHOSE because someone was giving me the one I chose for free, this is how it would go. If I had to leave the coin I chose as is, I would pick #1. If I could conserve the coin I chose, then I would pick #2. The tarnish/spots will always bother me MORE than anything else.

    Donato

    Hobbyist & Collector (not an investor).
    Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set

    Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
  • messydeskmessydesk Posts: 20,271 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the second coin (bottom)

    Not crazy about either, but the scratch on the first kills it for me, so #2 it is. I agree with looking for a nicer one, perhaps in VG8 or VG10, since it looks like the pricing is pretty flat until you hit F12.

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,709 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd buy the first coin (top)

    @Insider2

    LOL

    I only meant that coin one looked less worn than coin two, so that is why I preferred it.

    I have no problem with a circulated 1794 FH Half Dollar.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

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