Seems the ASEs have been the most affected. Is that due to the .999 fineness? Makes me wonder with commemoratives and silver proof set coins from 2019 on now being .999.
The wrights silver cream will take those spots right off. Now we are talking a rub and not a dip so technically forget about MS70. I've lost count of the rolls of heavily milk spotted Maples and even a few Eagles that I purchased at melt gave them a quick rub then flipped with BU premium. Not even noticeable up to 10x.
The whole worlds off its rocker, buy Gold™.
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@eddie1943 said:
I understand from the discussions over Canadian Silver Coins that it is an inadequate rinse of the acid wash used on the blanks during the minting process.
If that is the case, it would seem that someone would have developed a chemical treatment to remove the spots already; however, to my knowledge, once there, there is no way to remove the spots without damaging the coin.
PVC is fundamentally acid damage. I'm not sure the acid wash is correct, but if it is that doesn't mean they can be removed. It would mean you might be able to neutralize it before they form.
@Insider2 said:
OLD NEWS. What I wish to know is this: When is the product coated? Is the planchet coated and then struck OR what is more believable to me is the coins are coated after being struck.
The reason I think it is done after the strike is because the act of striking the planchet with metal flow into the die recess MAY cause the coating to be pulled away from the relief just as we see on many copper plated zinc cents!
Anyone know the answer?
It has to be after striking. The layer is much thinner than copper plating on cents. Coverage would not hold up to the trauma of striking.
Seems the ASEs have been the most affected. Is that due to the .999 fineness? Makes me wonder with commemoratives and silver proof set coins from 2019 on now being .999.
@blitzdude said:
The wrights silver cream will take those spots right off. Now we are talking a rub and not a dip so technically forget about MS70. I've lost count of the rolls of heavily milk spotted Maples and even a few Eagles that I purchased at melt gave them a quick rub then flipped with BU premium. Not even noticeable up to 10x.
@blitzdude said:
The wrights silver cream will take those spots right off. Now we are talking a rub and not a dip so technically forget about MS70. I've lost count of the rolls of heavily milk spotted Maples and even a few Eagles that I purchased at melt gave them a quick rub then flipped with BU premium. Not even noticeable up to 10x.
I ran across a video where it was said that the spots on Leafs were from borax and could be removed with "cloudy" ammonia.
@blitzdude said:
The wrights silver cream will take those spots right off. Now we are talking a rub and not a dip so technically forget about MS70. I've lost count of the rolls of heavily milk spotted Maples and even a few Eagles that I purchased at melt gave them a quick rub then flipped with BU premium. Not even noticeable up to 10x.
Thanks for the tip.
It was a joke. Lucky you were able to pass those altered pieces off to ignorant buyers!
Actually, no luck was involved. Most folks prefer "shiny" to original when it comes to a coin.
I revisited my 2006 three-piece proof set and all three eagles are spot free. Are raw OGP coins somewhat protected from milk spots? Does the process of opening the capsules and slabbing them aggravate the problem?
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Things like the Buffalo dollars and Old Mint coins were/are struck from the same blanks as the ASEs, no? Any reason why they wouldn't be?
The wrights silver cream will take those spots right off. Now we are talking a rub and not a dip so technically forget about MS70. I've lost count of the rolls of heavily milk spotted Maples and even a few Eagles that I purchased at melt gave them a quick rub then flipped with BU premium. Not even noticeable up to 10x.
The whole worlds off its rocker, buy Gold™.
BOOMIN!™
You always do, no matter what you buy. No point in pretending otherwise
PVC is fundamentally acid damage. I'm not sure the acid wash is correct, but if it is that doesn't mean they can be removed. It would mean you might be able to neutralize it before they form.
It has to be after striking. The layer is much thinner than copper plating on cents. Coverage would not hold up to the trauma of striking.
Weight and fineness are different.
They might undergo the same cleaning regimen, however
Thanks for the tip.
I ran across a video where it was said that the spots on Leafs were from borax and could be removed with "cloudy" ammonia.
It was a joke. Lucky you were able to pass those altered pieces off to ignorant buyers!
Actually, no luck was involved. Most folks prefer "shiny" to original when it comes to a coin.
I revisited my 2006 three-piece proof set and all three eagles are spot free. Are raw OGP coins somewhat protected from milk spots? Does the process of opening the capsules and slabbing them aggravate the problem?