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Would you or wouldn't you????

So the question is this......

You are working on a set and you need one of the keys to the set and know you are going to have to spend $400.00 to get it in a grade such as a PSA 5 and you find one that is a PSA 5 MK. The reason for the MK designation is a very small ball point ink uniform number on the back that was obviously written by the original owner of the card and when I say small, it is small and does not take away from the attractiveness of the back of the card. The card itself meets all the requirements of a PSA 5 and is honestly not a bad looking card. The best part is this card can be had for about $150 to $200 cheaper than a similar grade would cost.

Do you buy the card because the mark is small and on the back or would the fact that the there is any kind of mark on it but the crap out of you and you would pass on it? I am struggling with how I am feeling about this one and leaning in one direction but wanted to ask others your thoughts.

so...what say you?

I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!

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    rounding3rdrounding3rd Posts: 287 ✭✭✭

    small ink on the back...I would go with the PSA 5 MK and use the saved money for something else in the set

    Michael

    Working on Baseball HOF Autograph Set Registry
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    Walt_AltmenWalt_Altmen Posts: 184 ✭✭✭

    It sounds like the card is remarkable, cheap and right up your alley and the only catch is an (mk). Buy the coin, not the holder and if it bothers you as the set comes to completion, then pay a lot more for an “upgrade”.

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    doubledragondoubledragon Posts: 23,049 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 10, 2019 11:05AM

    In the end its up to you, but I buy Joe Louis cards regardless of condition or miscuts or ink or whatever. I just like to collect Joe Louis cards.

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    mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭

    You guys are awesome. I wasn't sure I would get many answers but 15 minutes later you all confirmed what I was feeling.

    I am collecting the set for my own happiness and of course I do want some resale value down the road when my wife needs to get rid of it. But in the end this is for me and I guess if I am happy with it that's all that counts. I can always upgrade somewhere down the line as someone mentioned.

    I have pondering this purchase for two weeks and just now hit the buy it now.

    Thanks for the advice everyone!!

    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
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    1951WheatiesPremium1951WheatiesPremium Posts: 6,244 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @mccardguy1 said:
    So the question is this......

    You are working on a set and you need one of the keys to the set and know you are going to have to spend $400.00 to get it in a grade such as a PSA 5 and you find one that is a PSA 5 MK. The reason for the MK designation is a very small ball point ink uniform number on the back that was obviously written by the original owner of the card and when I say small, it is small and does not take away from the attractiveness of the back of the card. The card itself meets all the requirements of a PSA 5 and is honestly not a bad looking card. The best part is this card can be had for about $150 to $200 cheaper than a similar grade would cost.

    Do you buy the card because the mark is small and on the back or would the fact that the there is any kind of mark on it but the crap out of you and you would pass on it? I am struggling with how I am feeling about this one and leaning in one direction but wanted to ask others your thoughts.

    so...what say you?

    If you’re in it for the Registry you should know up front that 5 (MK) = 3. Qualifiers are accounted for when the calculation is done and it’s a -2 until you get to 3 and under.

    If it’s for you, decide what’s best for you. It sounds like there plenty available and I’d say wait for the right copy in the grade you want. Qualifier cards are often priced similar to how they ‘count’ so a 5 (MK) will often be priced as a higher end 3.

    Depending on the card, qualifiers can limit resale so if you think it’s a card that was a requested qualifier (ex. 8 (OC) where without the qualifier it may get a 6:5 or 7) that could be a potential good value play but a marked card will always be marked so if the card is abundant I would say hold off. You may ‘save’ up front but marked cards can often ‘lose’ on the back end.

    Curious about the rare, mysterious and beautiful 1951 Wheaties Premium Photos?

    https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/987963/1951-wheaties-premium-photos-set-registry#latest

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    DBesse27DBesse27 Posts: 3,029 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Clarification: a PSA 3 with a qualifier still counts as a PSA 1. It’s still a 2 point deduction until you’re UNDER PSA 3 (2.5 or lower).

    Yaz Master Set
    #1 Gino Cappelletti master set
    #1 John Hannah master set

    Also collecting Andre Tippett, Patriots Greats' RCs, 1964 Venezuelan Topps, 1974 Topps Red Sox

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    Walt_AltmenWalt_Altmen Posts: 184 ✭✭✭

    No problem.

    -Someone

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    pab1969pab1969 Posts: 1,088 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I wouldn't. I would always look at that mark and obsess over it no matter how small. I would rather wait for one without a qualifier to come up even if I have to pay a little more. If you buy the one with the qualifier I will guarantee you that within a year you will eventually buy another one without a qualifier to replace it.

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    LarkinCollectorLarkinCollector Posts: 8,975 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DBesse27 said:
    Clarification: a PSA 3 with a qualifier still counts as a PSA 1. It’s still a 2 point deduction until you’re UNDER PSA 3 (2.5 or lower).

    Actually a 3 only gets a 1 point deduction:
    9Q = -2
    8Q = -2
    7Q = -2
    6Q = -2
    5Q = -2
    4Q = -2
    3Q = -1
    2Q = -1
    1Q & 1.5Q = no deduction

    Source: https://www.psacard.com/psasetregistry/rules

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    doubledragondoubledragon Posts: 23,049 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I just collect, and don't worry about all that stuff. I find that if you obsess over all that stuff, it ruins the hobby.

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    daltexdaltex Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @mccardguy1 said:
    So the question is this......

    You are working on a set and you need one of the keys to the set and know you are going to have to spend $400.00 to get it in a grade such as a PSA 5 and you find one that is a PSA 5 MK. The reason for the MK designation is a very small ball point ink uniform number on the back that was obviously written by the original owner of the card and when I say small, it is small and does not take away from the attractiveness of the back of the card. The card itself meets all the requirements of a PSA 5 and is honestly not a bad looking card. The best part is this card can be had for about $150 to $200 cheaper than a similar grade would cost.

    Do you buy the card because the mark is small and on the back or would the fact that the there is any kind of mark on it but the crap out of you and you would pass on it? I am struggling with how I am feeling about this one and leaning in one direction but wanted to ask others your thoughts.

    so...what say you?

    I think if you're struggling over this, you're not going to be happy with the card. Big discounts can be very expensive.

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    countdouglascountdouglas Posts: 2,282 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @daltex said:

    I think if you're struggling over this, you're not going to be happy with the card. Big discounts can be very expensive.

    I agree. I would also pass.

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    mexpo75mexpo75 Posts: 1,912 ✭✭✭

    I would save and get the 5 with no qualifier. If you buy the cheaper one, the MK is always going to bug you and the small mark is going to start to look large to you over time.

    PackManInNC
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    Bear48Bear48 Posts: 239 ✭✭✭

    I'd buy a clean 5 (no qualifier). I've never regretted going after better cards, even when it's slowed me down in completing sets.

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    JoeBanzaiJoeBanzai Posts: 11,233 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Nobody looks at the back anyway. If it doesn't bother you, save the money.

    2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set
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    Walt_AltmenWalt_Altmen Posts: 184 ✭✭✭

    Play by the new tenets.

    Buy the 5mk, crack it, conserve it, regrade it, then sell it without mentioning a thing.

    Sounds above board, right?

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    mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭

    @Walt_Altmen said:
    Play by the new tenets.

    Buy the 5mk, crack it, conserve it, regrade it, then sell it without mentioning a thing.

    Sounds above board, right?

    The sad thing is that this probably could be easily done and the pen mark is so small I could easily use a soft art eraser and take my time removing it and I am confident there would be no way to really see the "conservation". But honestly, I have better things to do than to play that game especially since it takes like three years to get your cards back from the grading companies now (tongue firmly planted in cheek).

    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
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    remedylaneremedylane Posts: 330 ✭✭✭

    If you feel you can live with the mark then go for it. Since joining these forums the "buy the card not the holder" mantra has really resonated with me. I recently sent 2 48 leaf Jack Dempsey cards out for grading. They came back as a 2.5 and a 3. I posted a thread here about which one to keep. It was fairly evenly split. In the end I decided to keep the 2.5, it has printers marks which is what knocked it down, but it just looks better to me. And I'm ok with it.

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    doubledragondoubledragon Posts: 23,049 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I had a great week. I just managed to win two auctions for two rare Joe Louis cards. One is out of focus, and one is miscut. I had to fight like an animal to get them. Took some serious sniper fire, but escaped with both, thank goodness.

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    steel75steel75 Posts: 1,589 ✭✭✭✭

    You can always upgrade, then sell the MK off...….problem solved.

    1970's Steelers, Vintage Indians
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    jay0791jay0791 Posts: 3,514 ✭✭✭✭

    cracking out a card and reselling it without mentioning the reason it received the lower grade is just plain
    immoral in my book. You can join all the other dirt bags that sell cards with negative qualifiers stating full SMR and the population of a straight grade.

    Buy the 5MK. enjoy card. You can always upgrade.

    Collecting PSA... FB,BK,HK,and BB HOF RC sets
    1948-76 Topps FB Sets
    FB & BB HOF Player sets
    1948-1993 NY Yankee Team Sets
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    stevekstevek Posts: 27,770 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Sorry, no marks for me.

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    daltexdaltex Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @steel75 said:
    You can always upgrade, then sell the MK off...….problem solved.

    Yes. This is exactly what I meant. If you figure just a 10% haircut for buying a mistake, it can still be expensive. Note that I have no objections to how you (or anyone) wishes to collect, but if you have to ask, you're just not going to be happy with the mark. Better to save your money for the one you really want.

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    mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭

    @jay0791 said:
    cracking out a card and reselling it without mentioning the reason it received the lower grade is just plain
    immoral in my book. You can join all the other dirt bags that sell cards with negative qualifiers stating full SMR and the population of a straight grade.

    Buy the 5MK. enjoy card. You can always upgrade.

    No doubt cracking the card and not mentioning the reason for the lower grade or even reconditioning the card with no disclosure to a potential buyer would be a dirt bag move and not something I will do. I have been in the hobby since I was nine years old and am now in my 50's and never did this for the money making factor but for my own happiness. I despise those who give a card a little shave or ironing.

    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
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    mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭

    @daltex said:

    @steel75 said:
    You can always upgrade, then sell the MK off...….problem solved.

    Yes. This is exactly what I meant. If you figure just a 10% haircut for buying a mistake, it can still be expensive. Note that I have no objections to how you (or anyone) wishes to collect, but if you have to ask, you're just not going to be happy with the mark. Better to save your money for the one you really want.

    Actually, I was asking not for myself but to see what others would do in this situation. Truth be told I already bought the card before I posted this and while I wrestled with the decision briefly, I had to take a real look at why I am still collecting. This hobby has always been for my own pleasure and making a few bucks off of it was just a side benefit so buying this card with the MK designation wasnt much of a decision for me. I have always been a huge fan of history and cannot help but wonder about the history of the collectables we now own. The thought of some 10 year old kid who originally pulled the card out of a pack putting the players uniform number on the back of his card for some unknown reason nearly 60 years ago helps me connect to that ten year old kid in me once again. After all I remember writing on my cards so I can understand why he may have done it.

    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
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    mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭

    Here is the card I purchased.....Pics taken from Ebay. I will put up new pics when it arrives. I may have overpaid a little bit but I think I am good with it.


    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
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    ahopkinsahopkins Posts: 1,095 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @mccardguy1 said:
    Here is the card I purchased.....Pics taken from Ebay. I will put up new pics when it arrives. I may have overpaid a little bit but I think I am good with it.


    Some marks would bother me. This one doesn't. It's Clemente's number. And probably made by a kid. That, to me, is keepable. Good pickup, man. Are you happy?

    Andy

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    mccardguy1mccardguy1 Posts: 1,507 ✭✭✭

    @ahopkins said:

    @mccardguy1 said:
    Here is the card I purchased.....Pics taken from Ebay. I will put up new pics when it arrives. I may have overpaid a little bit but I think I am good with it.


    Some marks would bother me. This one doesn't. It's Clemente's number. And probably made by a kid. That, to me, is keepable. Good pickup, man. Are you happy?

    I agree with you. Any other mark probably would have made me think twice but something like this or the initials of the original owner (I have owned those kinds of cards but then again I knew the original owner) didnt bother me. Am I happy? Yeah....I am. Now if I can only find the Mantle this kid used to own and buy that for a decent price!

    I am on a budget and I am not afraid to use it!!
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    doubledragondoubledragon Posts: 23,049 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 11, 2019 7:21PM

    That is a beautiful way to collect cards mccardguy1. I collect Joe Louis cards because I love Joe Louis, and what he accomplished inside and outside the ring. Whenever I buy a Joe Louis card, I feel a connection to him. It's like I'm in his corner during one of his fights. Joe Louis is my favorite athlete, and I just love to collect his cards regardless of their condition. I'm just not the type of person who loses sleep obsessing over creases or marks or whatever a card might have, because I didn't get into the hobby for that. I got into the hobby to connect with these wonderful athletes.

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    ahopkinsahopkins Posts: 1,095 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 11, 2019 6:36PM

    @mccardguy1 said:
    Am I happy? Yeah....I am.

    Then that's all that matters. I'm happy for you. Enjoy the card.

    Andy

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    1951WheatiesPremium1951WheatiesPremium Posts: 6,244 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 12, 2019 5:10AM

    @mccardguy1

    That card is a stunner! Really solid looking card with or without the mark and it’s very minor and in line with the player. I collect in a similar fashion (historical connection) and have a similar situation where the mark almost enhances the card to me - as if it’s owner was trying to pinpoint the years...


    Curious about the rare, mysterious and beautiful 1951 Wheaties Premium Photos?

    https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/987963/1951-wheaties-premium-photos-set-registry#latest

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    doubledragondoubledragon Posts: 23,049 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 12, 2019 7:02AM

    Sweet DeMaggio!

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