How to clean 1971 S Silver Clad Proof Ike?
Tunis
Posts: 466 ✭✭✭✭
Going through my father’s Ike collection in a Littleton album. Can this Silver Proof be improved by an acetone bath? I know it is not a expensive coin but I would like to improve it if I can. The 72 looks the same way.
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give it a shot, rinse it well, post pics
Acetone cannot harm the coin... It will only remove organic residues. Give it a try and rinse well ....I rinse with pure alcohol followed by hot running water....Cheers, RickO
Why?
I don't think you will improve it much, if at all. The spots, which I don't like, will not go away, and it won't do much with the toning. A lot of these coins developed this type of toning both in and out of the original holder. Aside from storing the coins at constant, low humidity temperatures, I don't know what to do to prevent this.
My Ikes did that too -- makes them not very desirable. Was thinking about trying EZest (sp?) to remove the blue haze.
Just go buy another coin that is more to your taste.
It is too much work for too little gain to mess with these, and some future buyer will object to both the cleaning and to the fact that the coin has been removed from the original government packaging.
I am not collecting the set, so I won’t purchase any kind of upgrade. These belonged to my father before he passed. They already sit in a Littleton folder as a complete set. Just wanted opinions to see if the coin can be improved.
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Get crazy, soak it in acetone for a day or so. Do not rub it with anything. You can gently roll a nice clean q tip over it dipped in acetone. You can also soak it in mineral oil and pat it off. It's an imperfect Ike, it's gonna be okay. Peace Roy
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IMHO, leave it be.
I have lots of experience with these. Rarely is original toning on a silver Ike worth keeping, either sentimentally or cosmetically, short of some of those colorful 74S proofs and certain blue haze 72S proofs.
Do this, and I guarantee no problems - not even remotely:
Dip coin in either E-zest for 5 seconds, (10 seconds absolute maximum), or MS 70 ( as long as you want, but usually more than 60 seconds is useless); immediately follow with a hot water rinse (under a running faucet preferably) for a good 30 seconds - the key is to not only ensure a good rinse but warm the coin to help induce drying downstream in the process; set on a paper towel and press another on top (NO RUBBING), then roll the coin edge on the paper towel; immerse coin in an acetone bath, remove and allow to air dry (don't use sharp metal objects or plastic to handle)
I've put MANY silver uncirculated Ikes in MS68 and even one in a MS69 holder this way (all at PCGS), and have done the same for many proof Ikes in 69DCAM holders as well.
Thanks for the write up. I tried the acetone bath only, overnight, and it barely made a difference in the appearance. I will try this process next.
Successful buys on BST board from NotSure, Nankraut, Yorkshireman, Astrorat, Ikeigwin(2x), Bob13, Outhaul, coinbuf, dpvilla, jayPem, Sean1990, TwoKopeiki, bidask, Downtown1974, drddm, nederveit2
Yikes, don't know about the paper towel bit - to many sulfide compounds in the paper. I haven't graded out Ikes but conserved quite a few coins and usually employ a clean white high nap towel.
Well, just Love coins, period.
There are good and bad suggestions in this post. The difference boils down to conservation by a very experienced amateur or conservation by a very experienced professional. There are several places that do conservation but it costs money and that coin is not worth the cost unless the conservation is done for free with grading.
Acetone will not hurt the coin. It is a good pre-dip that will remove surface contamination, The next step is MS-70. Do not get any on the copper edge or it will change the color. Blotting coins with towels or paper towels is, well...ah, not advised. Don't rub your coin with anything as you apply the chemical. That's possibly all I can write w/o stepping on toes. A search of the coin forums (look for cleaning or conservation topics) should reveal anything I could add.
Sorry to upset anyone's apple cart, but, uh, I fully stand by the process outlined for 40% coins. I could truly care less if you or anyone for that matter like it or follow it, but I won't sit here and let you diplomatically sugar coat your disdain and label it as a bad suggestion when it appears you don't understand numerous aspects of the coin or the process.
Wow. Seriously? With all respect, a wise man once told me if you don't know what you're talking about, you ought to keep quiet.
I have well over 1000 40% Ikes of experience with this method, not one problem - ever. How much experience do you have - meaning, how many have you actually done yourself - not with other methods, the exact one I outlined...? When it comes to learning, there's no substitute for bonafide application by doing, as opposed to just reading.
I have never experienced a single solitary issue using paper towels on 40% silver coins, which, I'm pretty sure I was clear to press only, not rub. They are extremely simple and most importantly are very hydroscopic. However, rub a silver coin with a paper towel and it's over. I have found the quality, meaning the likelihood of running into coin-unfriendly debris is far less than that of a home cotton rag or related cloth. Any micro-residue they leave is removed by the acetone that follows. Moreover, wait till you see what the laundry detergent residue in a fine cotton rag can do to the surface after a few months.
This is a cheap, quick, and proven method offered for a coin of no real value except possible sentiment.
Don't have the stomach or an open mind towards the process I outlined? No sweat, your direction is fairly straightforward and easy: DON'T USE IT!
a nice pencil eraser will clean that up quickly and look real purdy.
BHNC #203
If the coin is fogged or has ugly toning, I use EZ-Est. As long as you dip quickly and rinse well then blot dry, the fog is removed and the coin looks great. I've done this will many proofs prior to submitting for grading, and have never had an issue.