A type coin question.

keets

When you're buying a coin for a type set, like a 7070 or even something in a slab, do you focus on a better grade or a tougher key date??

Al H.

CoinPhysicist

I've been trying to build my set slowly with lower grade keys. For example a VG8 1914 Barber Half sits in my set instead of an XF common date.

TheRaven

When i was working on this, i was going with nice coins regardless of date.

jmlanzaf

I would think that MOST type collectors focus on grade, that's rather the whole point of type collecting.

I wonder if anyone every put together a type collection of only keys. Defeats the purpose of a type set, but it would make it more challenging.

Insider2

IMO, a type set is tops. Most go for the best grade. However, long ago I started a set using the keys only. Examples: 16-D dime for the Mercury dime hole and S-VDB for the Lincoln. I gave it up - lack of money.

Think of a Registry Set formed by one of the Daddy Big Bucks - all in Uncirculated or best grade known. 1913 for the Liberty nickel, 1804 dollar, 1876-CC 20c, etc. I think Hanson could have done it and after he has finished his quest, he will have a nice Type Set to display all at one time.

ChrisH821

I've always liked the idea of a major variety type set.
42/1 dime, 55DDO wheat, 72DDO memorial, 37-d 3 leg etc. Would have to settle on some series that don't really have major varieties but I think it would be cool.

For my type set I am only concerned with grade.

SiriusBlack

I'm just trying to find the nicest coins within reason. All circulation, I think mixing Proofs in with normal looks kinda weird. Mine started off with a lot of low grade, but now as I continue to fill holes, I'm trying to buy nicer coins and upgrade existing. I figure if it's going to have 3 versions of Liberty Seated Half Dimes, I should replace my worn examples that all look the same with some that are nice enough that you can understand the difference between Arrows and Legend.

ManifestDestiny

I recommend reading this book. I found it very interesting and informative in regard to building a type set.

https://www.amazon.com/Pleasure-Profit-Lessons-Building-Collection/dp/0794842437/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1533930056&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=building+a+us+coin+type+set

PerryHall

I've been buying the key dates in most series since I think they will be the easiest to sell and the most likely to appreciate in value.

keets

I've always liked the idea of a major variety type set

this is an idea that has intrigued me, I thought about trying to do it with the 20th Century issues only. I always stop short because just a normal Type Set is challenging enough and I seem to find things to buy.

coinkat

Depends on series, price spreads between grades and what I am able to find. My type set is in the older Whitman blue bookshelf albums and I suspect they are 40 years old. I have another Whitman type of the same look except it is even older... Likely 55 years old or even older. The last Half Dollar slot is for 1948 to date.

Back to the question, it is nice to see a type set in various states of preservation. Finding quality for the grade in that state should be the objective.

NGS428

Highest grade, proofs included. So for moderns (1950 and newer I do proofs). Anything older will likely be the best circulation strike I can find.

divecchia

I guess the answer would depend on your goal for the type set. About a year ago I just started a modified type set that will include gold. My goal is to showcase a set that shows what the coins looked like when they were first produced. This means my coins will have to be mint state or as close as I can afford. As I get to the early years mint state will be impossible (for me anyways), but I will get a coin with as much detail and as few flaws as I can afford. I do plan on having a few of the type pieces be key dates, but most will likely be examples that are common dates in higher grade. Don't get me wrong. I'd love to do a key date type set, but the money would not be there for the grades that I would require.

Donato

SanctionII

For me, I try to find high grade examples with eye appeal (to me) for a price that is modest. That means mostly common da


tes. I have been able to fill holes in my 7070 album with MS examples of post barber silver issues, of nickel issues and of small cent copper issues. A few of the earlier issues are EF, AU and MS, while the others are VF or lower.

See attached photos of my album. It remains a work in progress.

topstuf

I could never get comfy with proofs in my 7070.

Not uniform and it looked weird.

Tetromibi

toning with as high a grade as i can find

ricko

I have not done a type set.... The time and effort just seemed more than I was willing to devote. However, if I were to embark on this journey, it would be mainly based on good quality coins... Not top grade, but good details, attractive coins. And not key coins...It would/will be a set for personal enjoyment. Darn, did I say 'will'? Cheers, RickO

keets

will be a set for personal enjoyment

yes, you said "will" and everyone knows it!! the biggest benefit to me from working on such a set is that it helped me better understand grade and strike on coins I otherwise wouldn't have looked at. it made me a better collector.

Sonorandesertrat

The 7070 album was incomplete even when it first came out---the slots chosen were a compromise, and largely excluded more expensive coins (non HR Saint, no Gobrecht or Bust dollars, etc.). As Ricko wrote, it is a set for personal enjoyment and, if that dictum is adhered to, would be quite idiosyncratic. My set has nice type coins, an electrotype, a few contemporary counterfeits, a couple of proofs, a few error coins, a counterstamped coin, at least one piece from each U.S. branch mint, and a couple of coins inherited from my paternal grandmother. I thought about doing a set just using counterfeits, but gave up--too difficult to find examples of some pieces.

BryceM

I go for “Intetesting.”

Really pretty, high-grade coins are interesting. A slightly lower graded Carson City double-dime is interesting. A vanilla, high-grade, common-issue coin is technically nice, but sometimes boring.

Paradisefound

I am still looking for a 'good representative' as an example so I tend to look for quality first

WALLE

Hi all,
I started a 7070 about a year ago, and like many here I look for better grades. I included a page I made up ( can't take credit for this as seen this on a you tube post ) For me it updates the collection with some of the newer coins.

oldabeintx

I've sold a few series and kept a key or semi-key for type, to make the type set more interesting, but I don't seek the keys - all about $$$$.

Kkathyl

date

oldabeintx

Another "twist" collecting type is to assemble date sets, such as parents or grandparents birth years, that also represent types. I have a gold mini-set representing my fathers's birth year, and another for my grandmother's birth year. Adds to the hunt, but can obviously be challenging for some years and types. Any excuse to buy coins, yes?

oih82w8

Whatever coin has the eye appeal required to pull the trigger for the spot to be filled wins my vote.

Catbert

Neither grade assigned or rarity is primary, but eye appeal to my eye is the objective as I collect by type. Then again, I'm so far away from making significant progress against a 7070 type set that perhaps my approach is irrelevant.

BillJones

I always got for the better grade. There are enough tough coins in the complete type set from 1792 to present without making it harder by putting an 1877 Indian cent in a slot that only takes a couple hundred for a nice. coin. Having said that my 1838-D $5 gold is still my type coin because that's the highest grade piece of Classic gold type I have.

Many years ago there was a collector named Leland Rogers who put high grade rare die varieites into his type coin slots. For example he had what was then the finest known 1806, Small Stems half cent in his Draped Bust half cent spot.