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How many folks here regularly dip coins?
Myqqy
Posts: 9,777 ✭
I am just wondering- i'm not looking for an anti-dip thread- i'm just wondering who here has regular experience with dipping coins, and any strategy they want to share.... 
My style is impetuous, my defense is impregnable !
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Submerge the coin for a few seconds then rinse thoroughly in warm water. If you want, you can give it a quick acetone bath afterwards to ensure all the coin dip is off the coin.
Ron
To answer your question, no I have never dipped a coin.
<< <i>Are you calling me a coin dip? >>
Never, fine sir! Or, maybe we are all coin dips??
<< <i>And as a follow up question... does anybody find that they have to dip a coin multiple times, or is once always enough??
This is what happens when a coin is dipped multiple times...
It's a killer ultimate FH AU58 24-D but the surfaces are impaired from over dipping.
<< <i>It's a killer ultimate FH AU58 24-D but the surfaces are impaired from over dipping >>
Do you know who did the over-dipping, or why?
<< <i>Do you know who did the over-dipping, or why? >>
No but I would assume it re-toned from a previous dip and was re-dipped again prior to TPG grading.
I'm not apposed to dipped coins at the AU58 level as long as they still posses skin and natural cartwheel luster.
This example is a bit lack luster.
Here's a recent example.
All the obverse spots and reverse staining is actually dip residue.
I was offered 30% more if the spots could be removed and asked NCS at a show, then opted to sell it as is as I didn't feel it could handle another dip.
here's a few of my opinions about it (notice, i said opinions):
1. don't dip an expensive/rare coin...leave that to a conservation expert. i dipped to learn on a common coin that is worth melt regardless.
2. don't dip a coin that would look obviously dipped. for example, an XF coin that looks all nice and shiny dead give away compared to a mint state coin. does that make any sense?
3. dip only a coin that desperately needs to benefit from it. see the link i provided. i think it's a good example. most people would not want to coin before the dip because the toning took away from its appeal. now, i think it could be sold easily because it has fantastic luster and eye appeal (compared to what it used to have, not compared to a true mint state version).
4. don't dip a coin and then keep it a secret. if you dip it and sell it, admit that it has been dipped.
i am not an expert, but these are some things i think i have learned about it.
it, to rinse the coin afterwards. You let the baking soda settle to the bottom, to prevent any
of it from ending up on the coin. The clear water at the top will be well below the "base"
line (in pH terms) to neutralize the acid from the coin dip. I generally use about a cup of baking
soda in about a pint of water, mix it up well, then let it settle overnight.
You can then rinse the coin in tap water (unless your tap water has a lot of iron or other minerals
in it) and pat it dry with a soft towel. Do not rub the coin dry, as you may hairline it.
Normally, more than one or two dips with full strength coin dip will begin to eat into the coin
itself, not the residue you are trying to remove. For stains that are in the crevices of the coin, you
can soak a Q-tip in coin dip for a few seconds, then work out the stain with the Q-tip.
Used to get some haze that developed on modern proofs. Dip for a few seconds and rinse
very well and pat dry. Did a great job and coins have stayed bright and haze free.
I did use a blow dryer on the bigger coins like halves and Ikes so as not to impart hairlines
from any patting! Did not do the acetone thing on them.
bob
1. Using coin tongs to hold the coin, dip and swirl gently, fully covering the coin in the E-Z-est solution
2. Expose coin for no longer than 15 seconds in the dip - I find 5 - 10 secs works very well against the ugly haze
3. rinse thoroughly with water
4. Quick dip in Koinsolv to remove any water-dip residue
5. pat dry
6. Store in Interceptshield album
Cheers!
Kirk
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"Tells me who definitely does the dipping (especially since it appears the deifinition of what constitues a dip varies) here and who I need to avoid when it comes to buying coins from."
If you like your moderns all hazy then go for it. Mine are in my albums and my kids will have to deal with them. They are raw,
and look quite nice in their little homes.
bob
-Keith
<< <i>I've never dipped a coin...I'm interested in giving it a try though.
-Keith >>
Just follow my six "easy steps" and you will be wll on your way to improving your fugly coins to the max!!
Cheers!
Kirk
P.S. Warning! MY six "easy steps" are NOT intended for coins worth more than melt value. Just sayin'
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<< <i>Excellent thread!
Tells me who definitely does the dipping (especially since it appears the deifinition of what constitues a dip varies) here and who I need to avoid when it comes to buying coins from. I want undipped material and of course I don't know what happened to the coins prior to these dippings but avoiding any dips is preferable to me. Thanks for the public servie announcement.
What can I say, I want my coins untouched, unmessed with and left alone, just I like my women.
...The last woman I left untouched , unmessed with and alone, left me that way too.
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Most times it works very well, resulting in a coin that looks much better. However, there are times when the results of the dip turns out to be neutral or bad. Usually this is when the haze hides surface conditions of the coin which are negatives (i.e. hairlines, carbon spots, streaks, planchet flaws, contact marks (on SMS coins), etc.). With practice I have been able to develop a good eye for spotting which coins would look worse with a dip and which would look better. For those that would look worse, I leave them alone.
On occassion I have dipped circulation strike silver, nickel and clad coins, both MS and circulated. Most of the time the coins do not look better after the dip.
I have dipped copper coins (memorial cents on non value) as an experiment. They always turn out looking worse. I have wanted to dip copper proof and SMS cents to try to remove haze, but have not done so because I do not want to risk having the coins turn out worse (i.e. pink in color). I have not tried acetone or MS70 or Goo Gone on copper proof and SMS coins yet. Have you had much luck doing so to remove haze from copper?
<< <i>I dip proof and SMS silver, nickel and clad coins to remove milky haze that has developed on the coins.
Most times it works very well, resulting in a coin that looks much better. However, there are times when the results of the dip turns out to be neutral or bad. Usually this is when the haze hides surface conditions of the coin which are negatives (i.e. hairlines, carbon spots, streaks, planchet flaws, contact marks (on SMS coins), etc.). With practice I have been able to develop a good eye for spotting which coins would look worse with a dip and which would look better. For those that would look worse, I leave them alone.
On occassion I have dipped circulation strike silver, nickel and clad coins, both MS and circulated. Most of the time the coins do not look better after the dip.
I have dipped copper coins (memorial cents on non value) as an experiment. They always turn out looking worse. I have wanted to dip copper proof and SMS cents to try to remove haze, but have not done so because I do not want to risk having the coins turn out worse (i.e. pink in color). I have not tried acetone or MS70 or Goo Gone on copper proof and SMS coins yet. Have you had much luck doing so to remove haze from copper? >>
I've not experimented with MS70 on copper, but I use acetone regularly. I mistakenly put a silver coin along with a clad coin in the acetone bath and left it over night. Big mistake! The silver coin reacted badly and developed a color that made it look like a clad coin. The lesson I learned is to put one coin at a time in the bath or only like coins.
Cheers!
Kirk
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Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
I dont dip coins, never have, never will. I also dont purchase dipped coins. One thing on this forum that you will notice is that several of the people who dip coins think its fantastic until an expensive coin shows up at auction that was dipped then the same dippers will say how terrible it was. There was a recent morgan up for sale that was dipped, everyone in that thread said how terrible it was to dip a coin but a week or so later there was another dip thread and several of those same people said dipping was fine. Dipping is like taking the original finish off of a piece of furniture, it destroys the original surface period rendering what is left unoriginal.
<< <i>Ahh what a subject,
I dont dip coins, never have, never will. I also dont purchase dipped coins. One thing on this forum that you will notice is that several of the people who dip coins think its fantastic until an expensive coin shows up at auction that was dipped then the same dippers will say how terrible it was. There was a recent morgan up for sale that was dipped, everyone in that thread said how terrible it was to dip a coin but a week or so later there was another dip thread and several of those same people said dipping was fine. Dipping is like taking the original finish off of a piece of furniture, it destroys the original surface period rendering what is left unoriginal. >>
I would argue that the formation of tarnish on a coin is unoriginal and destroys the coin's surface. Dipping removes some surface atoms along with the destructive tranish, but beneath those surface atoms is nothing but the Original coin. If you prefer tarnished coins, then so be it. I think the fascination with toned coins is a fad that will end and folks will be buying original bright silver coins again. Yes, coins that are over dipped lose their luster, but I still find bright silver coins with brilliant luster very eye appealing. I also like a little touch of natural toning too, as long as it's not mottled, ugly or just plain black.
Cheers!
Kirk
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