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To Grade or Not To Grade: U.S. Proof Sets

Should you grade U.S. Proof Sets?

It seems like they would retain more value in their original casing instead of being individually holdered, but I could be wrong.

What do you do with U.S. Proof Sets? Would you have the coins graded?
Jimmy L.
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Successful BST transactions with: Tdec1000, lordmarcovan, WTCG, PRoemisch, Hayden, bolivarshagnasty, nibanny, morgan3896, WaterSport

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    ModCrewmanModCrewman Posts: 4,055 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Totally depends on the date and quality.

    Realistically, anything newer than 1954 or 1955 you would need to be expecting a grade or designation (CAM/DCAM) of relatively exceptional quality to recover your grading fees, so as a blanket answer I'd say "Maybe."

    I've had pretty good luck doing some selective submissions of coins from the 1950-1964 era shooting for either higher grade (ie. 66 or above) or CAM/DCAM designations.

    But I'll add that the CAM/DCAM designations are pretty difficult to get at PCGS at the moment, based upon my recent experiences. Coins are required to have nearly fully black fields and heavy even frost to get even a CAM designation.

    And image
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    If I were lucky enough to come across and original 1936-1942 set, in its original tissue/cello/box/package(s), I would keep it that way.

    Eric
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    Say 1995-1998 U.S. Proof Sets, 1999-2011 U.S. Silver Proof Sets, 2004-2006 U.S. Silver 5-Piece Quarter Set

    Would you say that the value of them graded is worth more than the value of them in their original package?
    Jimmy L.
    image
    Successful BST transactions with: Tdec1000, lordmarcovan, WTCG, PRoemisch, Hayden, bolivarshagnasty, nibanny, morgan3896, WaterSport
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    Bayard1908Bayard1908 Posts: 4,184 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Say 1995-1998 U.S. Proof Sets, 1999-2011 U.S. Silver Proof Sets, 2004-2006 U.S. Silver 5-Piece Quarter Set

    Would you say that the value of them graded is worth more than the value of them in their original package? >>



    Don't waste your money on grading fees on recent proof sets. You can buy a PR69DCAM set for less than the cost of grading fees from somebody who was trying to get PR70 grades.

    That being said, I greatly enjoy proof sets in the NGC multicoin holder.
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    CyStaterCyStater Posts: 681 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Say 1995-1998 U.S. Proof Sets, 1999-2011 U.S. Silver Proof Sets, 2004-2006 U.S. Silver 5-Piece Quarter Set

    Would you say that the value of them graded is worth more than the value of them in their original package? >>



    No.
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    leothelyonleothelyon Posts: 8,575 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think if you're not involved in the hunt of a coin, how can anyone enjoy the hobby?

    The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!

    My Jefferson Nickel Collection

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    Tdec1000Tdec1000 Posts: 3,852 ✭✭✭
    I would stay away from proof sets starting out... try and find nice circ coins in XF grade or lower. They tend to be cheaper and you can get a lot of coin in an xf.
    Awarded the coveted "You Suck" Award on 22 Oct 2010 for finding a 1942/1 D Dime in silver, and on 7 Feb 2011 Cherrypicking a 1914 MPL Cent on Ebay!

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    mkman123mkman123 Posts: 6,849 ✭✭✭✭
    I buy 1960-1964 proof sets just for the silver and the fact that.proofs are nice
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    Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
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    mkman123mkman123 Posts: 6,849 ✭✭✭✭
    And I would not submit them unless there was a cam/dcam coin that made it worth it.
    Successful Buying and Selling transactions with:

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    Tdec1000Tdec1000 Posts: 3,852 ✭✭✭


    << <i>And I would not submit them unless there was a cam/dcam coin that made it worth it. >>



    agreed, but as a new collector I would go for some nice type coins that I could afford. The kid is in high school, and I doubt that he has the funds to hoard silver. but then again you never know.
    Awarded the coveted "You Suck" Award on 22 Oct 2010 for finding a 1942/1 D Dime in silver, and on 7 Feb 2011 Cherrypicking a 1914 MPL Cent on Ebay!

    Successful BST Transactions!SIconbuster, Meltdown, Mission16, slothman2000, RGjohn, braddick, au58lover, allcoinsrule, commemdude, gerard, lablade, PCcoins, greencopper, kaz, tydye, cucamongacoin, mkman123, SeaEaglecoins, Doh!, AnkurJ, Airplanenut, ArizonaJack, JJM,Tee135,LordMarcovan, Swampboy, piecesofme, Ahrensdad,
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    << <i>Totally depends on the date and quality.

    Realistically, anything newer than 1954 or 1955 you would need to be expecting a grade or designation (CAM/DCAM) of relatively exceptional quality to recover your grading fees, so as a blanket answer I'd say "Maybe."

    I've had pretty good luck doing some selective submissions of coins from the 1950-1964 era shooting for either higher grade (ie. 66 or above) or CAM/DCAM designations.

    But I'll add that the CAM/DCAM designations are pretty difficult to get at PCGS at the moment, based upon my recent experiences. Coins are required to have nearly fully black fields and heavy even frost to get even a CAM designation.

    And image >>



    I agree! The only thing I would add is that a rare variety may be worth submitting even in less than gem grades and non-cameo.
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    What does CAM/DCAM mean?
    Jimmy L.
    image
    Successful BST transactions with: Tdec1000, lordmarcovan, WTCG, PRoemisch, Hayden, bolivarshagnasty, nibanny, morgan3896, WaterSport
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    Hi,

    that is Cameo and Deep Cameo - two designations for the amount of frost on the deices of a proof issue.

    Best wishes,
    Eric

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