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Full Bands?
39Special
Posts: 761
Here's a picture of the middle bands of a Mercury Dime in another (reputable) TPG holder from the 1980's that's designates this as full bands. The holder has some scuffs to it and it was really hard to get a decent picture. The bands aren't rounded but there does appear to be a thin line of separation across the bands, although, like with some of the Jefferson full steps varieties, it's best seen when tilting the coin on either side as opposed to straight on. This is significant in this case because this date very rarely has full bands and if I were to send it in and it got this designation it would mean multiples more to its value than if it did not. So, I guess my questions are these:
1) From the picture, do you think this coin would receive full bands designation?
2) From your experience, does PCGS allow "flatter" middle bands to receive full bands designation if there is a thin line separating the two bands?
3) From your experience, does PCGS take into consideration the scarcity of full bands on a particular date when assigning the designation? ( ie grades tougher because of the rarity, or perhaps is a bit more lenient since very few are even close to full bands and "rounds up" instead of down in that case when it may be borderline)
Thanks
1) From the picture, do you think this coin would receive full bands designation?
2) From your experience, does PCGS allow "flatter" middle bands to receive full bands designation if there is a thin line separating the two bands?
3) From your experience, does PCGS take into consideration the scarcity of full bands on a particular date when assigning the designation? ( ie grades tougher because of the rarity, or perhaps is a bit more lenient since very few are even close to full bands and "rounds up" instead of down in that case when it may be borderline)
Thanks
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Comments
"Not Even Close"
rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
Russ, NCNE
Some images of a crusty PCGS MS63 1918-D which has fully split bands but just not rounded enough to make it.
Lower bands are split too but in this images you can see they are filled with crusty crustations.
1) From the photo...possibly not... but with my imagination, I can see a slight line going all the way across...and you are correct, it helps to tilt these things in hand. The photo could use some improvement.
2) Yes, I have seen a few.
3) I doubt it....like I said in 2, I have seen some flat FBs in PCGS slabs.
Good luck and please keep us updated!
Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
<< <i>I think the submitter got lucky on that one.
Russ, NCNE >>
I agree with Russ.
Strange..it eerily resembles my '31-S...
If I understand the criteria correctly the bands don't need to be rounded just completely separated to get the FB designation. It should not matter what the date and MM is.
One thing I disagree on is when there is a hit that "bridges" the bands they say no FB. I feel if the strike is there and the bands were fully split before the hit it should get the FB.
JMHO
jom
<< <i>I've never seen or understood the logic of paying huge premiums for these designations. The "almost FB" coins at far lower cost enables you to buy more coins for your set. AND the coins in most cases are just as nice. Cherrypick!
jom >>
Jom, my logic behind going for FB Mercs whenever possible is as follows - It is what the designer intended for his work of art. I would prefer to have the best representation of the artist's original work of art as possible. The flat mush middle bands do not do it for me. When my father passed his collection of Mercury Dimes on to me when I was a young lad I fell in love with the design, not just a portion of the design. I have an appreciation for all of it and just assume collect it as it was intended. The same would hold true with the FH designation for Standing Liberty Quarters....or a well struck Peace Dollar where the word "PEACE" is as bold as bold can be rather than an after thought as it is depicted on so many examples. Etc Etc Etc. Coins are miniature works of art and I collect them as such.
Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
<< <i> >>
Jom, my logic behind going for FB Mercs whenever possible is as follows - It is what the designer intended for his work of art. I would prefer to have the best representation of the artist's original work of art as possible. The flat mush middle bands do not do it for me. When my father passed his collection of Mercury Dimes on to me when I was a young lad I fell in love with the design, not just a portion of the design. I have an appreciation for all of it and just assume collect it as it was intended. The same would hold true with the FH designation for Standing Liberty Quarters....or a well struck Peace Dollar where the word "PEACE" is as bold as bold can be rather than an after thought as it is depicted on so many examples. Etc Etc Etc. Coins are miniature works of art and I collect them as such. >>
You certainly should do what YOU feel is best. Each collector justifies their own collection in any way they wish. That's why I don't believe in registries or none of that stuff. If I want to collect "odd" number years of Buffalo nickels or Capped Bust Quarters from the 1820s or toned Merc dimes of 1942 that's my collection and that is how I define it. To each their own.
I'm not rich so I have to pair down a set to what I can afford. To me a "just about FB or FH" is good enough. And just like buying a coin in the grade just below the big price jump makes sense to me so does avoiding the designation thing.
jom
Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
<< <i>Jom, I could not agree with you more. Everyone needs to decide for themselves what is best suited for their collection....just passing along my wacky reasoning so that you might understand the logic behind someone crazy such as myself.
The part that always confounded me was all this emphasis on the bands (or the head or bell lines or whatever) yet often the rest of the coin isn't fully stuck. Another words often more percentage of area of a Merc dime is not struck up than the area of the bands (or the shield on an SLQ or whatever). I can see going for a true fully stuck coin but paying a premium for a small little area seems "questionable" to me. But...whatever...collectors are a crazy lot.
jom
Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
JMHO