Home U.S. Coin Forum

36 Buffalo Proof and 36 Buffalo MS -- The Differences

breakdownbreakdown Posts: 2,264 ✭✭✭✭✭
Well, I think I can tell the difference between a proof and a business strike but on Buffalos, it is not always straightforward, particularly when the business strike has a full strike. Look at the following two coins and give diagnostics/reasons why it's easy to tell that one is a proof and the other a business strike.
Here they are:

image

and

image

The date and "LIBERTY" are slightly more squared off, for one thing (or at least I've convinced myself of that).

Thanks, Todd, for the images.

"Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.

Comments

  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    the location of "Black Diamond's" head in relation to the rim of the coin.
  • RayboRaybo Posts: 5,342 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>the location of "Black Diamond's" head in relation to the rim of the coin. >>



    Headbutting the rim! image

  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    i think that is a useful diagnostic for an online picture or in-hand quick view to get your curiosity piqued, but whenever i see a 1936 Satin/Brilliant coin in-hand it is an unmistakable Proof coin, while the really hammered Mint State issues are iffy. my "in-hand" perspective has always been that the debate isn't whether or not it's a Proof(that should be obvious) but whether it's Satin or Brilliant.
  • MikeInFLMikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭
    The squareness of the lettering and date is typically the giveaway to distinguish the satin proof and business struck coins. If you only look at the 1 in 1936 in the photos provided it is obvious to me. Also, brilliant proofs have a very unique look that is hard to mistake. IMO of course.

    By way of comparison, here's my 36 satin proof in NGC 67 -- a coin I've found virtually impossible to image capturing luster and color at the same time:

    imageimage
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.
  • keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,550 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Cool post, I learned something today! image
    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners. :smile:
  • LindeDadLindeDad Posts: 18,766 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The first proof pictured and the last one do not have the same head butting look to me.
    image
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,071 ✭✭✭✭✭
    imageimage

    This is my Satin proof Buff graded 67 by PCGS and in hand there's no question it is a proof coin. It can be hard to tell with some business strikes especially the 36 brilliant proof coins, these are the toughest in my opinion to tell the difference between the proofs and the business strikes. Proof coins will most always have sharp rims inside and outside. Another diagnostic feature on proofs is the absence of die polishing striations and erosion lines. The absence of these flaws does not guarantee that a coin is a proof but the presence makes proof attribution a suspect.....Joe
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • breakdownbreakdown Posts: 2,264 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hey, Joe, I like yours (and Mike's as well). Interesting that both of those proofs are more readily identifiable as such than mine, at least based on these images. Also, the headbutt that Keets points out (which I've never noticed before) does not seem as apparent in Mike's or Joe's.

    By the way, here is my Brilliant 36, which is a lot more unmistakeably a proof (no headbutt):

    image

    "Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.

  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,071 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Hey, Joe, I like yours (and Mike's as well). Interesting that both of those proofs are more readily identifiable as such than mine, at least based on these images. Also, the headbutt that Keets points out (which I've never noticed before) does not seem as apparent in Mike's or Joe's.

    By the way, here is my Brilliant 36, which is a lot more unmistakeably a proof (no headbutt):

    image >>



    I love your coin there buddy! Your right no mistaking this coin for anything but a proof. But there are tricks a guy can play and if your not on top of your game you can get burned. Great post....Joe
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    my understanding with the head/rim that i mentioned is that it is present in Proofs, albeit not always.
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,071 ✭✭✭✭✭
    image
    Here's another head butt proof...

    imageimage
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • mkman123mkman123 Posts: 6,849 ✭✭✭✭
    I can't tell the diffference.............amazing buffalos though!!
    Successful Buying and Selling transactions with:

    Many members on this forum that now it cannot fit in my signature. Please ask for entire list.
  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    here's a picture of a 1936 Satin that i no lomnger own which displays the head at the rim.

    image
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The strike on the Satin proof is always far superior to even the best business strike. In addition the EDGE is totally different-uniformly wide and square on the proof and beveled on the business strike. Look at the edge of a modern proof and business strike to see this difference.
  • Below are a couple of TrueView close-up images of a 1936 Satin Proof. The coin is a high end piece from the Forsythe Collection. Notice the die lines. From my experience, neither the ’36 Brilliant Proof nor the ’36 mint state pieces have these or many other specific diagnostics that seem to be specific to the ’36 Satin. But I’m wondering if anyone knows whether the Proof dies in 1936 were used to stamp the mint state coins after the Proofs were complete? Any information would be invaluable. Thanks. Duane

    Obverse diagnostic:
    image

    Reverse diagnostic:
    image
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Below are a couple of TrueView close-up images of a 1936 Satin Proof. The coin is a high end piece from the Forsythe Collection. Notice the die lines. From my experience, neither the ’36 Brilliant Proof nor the ’36 mint state pieces have these or many other specific diagnostics that seem to be specific to the ’36 Satin. But I’m wondering if anyone knows whether the Proof dies in 1936 were used to stamp the mint state coins after the Proofs were complete? Any information would be invaluable. Thanks. Duane

    Obverse diagnostic:
    image

    Reverse diagnostic:
    image >>



    The proof dies were almost certainly used for business strikes after they were no longer suitable for proof production-this has been done many times before and many times since for all denominations and types of U.S. coins.
  • Sorry Joe - did not see your earlier comments before I posted my thoughts above. So we both agree that your Satin Proof has these diagnostic polish striations that I refer to, right? (meaning, the 1936 Proof Brilliant or 1936 MS Buffs would not have the die lines)

    Duane
  • Thanks. That is exactly what I'm trying to establish. When I did the research/writing on the Matte Proof Lincoln series, I could not find any evidence of Proof dies being used on mint state coins. But this appears to be different with the Buffs, and I have found some circulation strikes with Proof-like diagnostics (however, only on really hammered MS specimens). But I cannot find support for this anywhere. David Lange makes a brief mention of this 'known' fact in his work, but I've found no support for this fact. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks, Duane
  • CarlWohlforthCarlWohlforth Posts: 11,074
    Thanks for the post guys! Know I know what has been bothering me for a while now. LOL image

    The diagnosis: Buffaloitis.

    The symptoms: Longing to own a proof Buffalo.

    The cure: Go buy one!

  • Oh yeah - Buffaloitis - been there. Broke out in rainbow spots all over. Never got better! image
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,071 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Thanks. That is exactly what I'm trying to establish. When I did the research/writing on the Matte Proof Lincoln series, I could not find any evidence of Proof dies being used on mint state coins. But this appears to be different with the Buffs, and I have found some circulation strikes with Proof-like diagnostics (however, only on really hammered MS specimens). But I cannot find support for this anywhere. David Lange makes a brief mention of this 'known' fact in his work, but I've found no support for this fact. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks, Duane >>



    Hi Duane, My comments were almost a quote from David W. Lange out of his book "The Complete Guide to Buffalo Nickels" If you notice the image of my Satin proof you'll see some die polishing lines above the Buffalo. I believe Mr. Lange is referring to "many" die polishing line as seen on so many business stikes. I have never seen any die erosion lines on the proof I have handled nor have I heard of such a thing. As far as using the proof dies for making business strikes, I've have read somewhere they did. I don't know how a guy would be able to tell one way or another. But I'll tell ya this, I have purchased a 1913 type 1 Buffalo nickel that I would swear was a proof but was notimage So I'm not the one with the answers....Joe
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • Hi Joe, Thanks very much. David Lange's "Complete Guide" is where I found the information, as well. Your 1936 Satin Proof is a beautiful coin, and I can see the very specific and pronounced die line right over the bison's back. I guess Mr. Lange's referring to many die lines, as opposed to a few localized and consistant die lines makes sense to me. I have looked at each year in the proof series, and each year has its own specific diagnostic features. But not any of the Proof coins show large groups of die polishing lines. More random swirling striations in the fields, more than anything else.

    It's funny that you mention the 1913 T1 as your example, as I also have seen a PCGS mint state 1913 T1 with specific die lines that closely resemble the die lines on the '13 T1 Proof issues. The mint state 1913 has a magnificent strike (it’s a high end MS67), and in-hand looks like a Proof. But when you study the surfaces under a 10x loupe, you can see that they are visibly different than the surfaces of a '13 Matte Proof - not as 'pebbly' and the rims are not as deeply 'squared' on the mint state example. So that would indicate to me that perhaps the Proof dies were in fact used the make the circulation pieces as well, like has been stated. Maybe the Proofs were struck more than once, and that’s why the details are brought out in greater detail.

    But I agree that differentiation of the two can be very, very tough! Thanks for taking the time to answer. Regards, Duane

  • some great imfo
    dont send sheep to kill a wolf...
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Proof dies are retired long before any signs of die erosion would appear. It would be useful if someone with access to large quantities of uncirculated or even AU coins from the years of Matte and satin proof production could do a study of these to see if the die markers present on proofs also appear on some of the business strikes. This may have already been done-I don't know.

    One of the keys to matte and satin proofs is the examination of the rims and edges. As for intentionally using proof dies for business strikes the Type "B" quarters are one good example. Most of these are far too common to have been produced by accident.
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Proofs, at least ones from that era, were struck once on a hydraulic medal press at much greater striking pressure than can be had from a press for business strike production. I have an article from a 1936 issue of "The Numismatist" concerning the resumption of proof coinage in 1936 that clearly states that fact. It's been a widely accepted and apparently erroneous assumption that proofs were struck twice on a business strike coin press.

    Perhaps Roger Burdette could elaborate further on this.
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    By the way-those satin Proofs you guys posted sure are pretty. I wish mine had color like those do.
  • breakdownbreakdown Posts: 2,264 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Well, as I hoped, I certainly learned a lot in this thread. One last thing I might mention is if you look at my Satin Proof in the OP and at Crazyhoundog's Satin, one thing I notice is a "shadow" or extension of the third feather that runs roughly parallel to the second feather. I also think I see it in Mike's Satin although it is harder to tell. Does anyone else see this or am I making something of nothing?image

    "Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.

  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Thanks for the post guys! Know I know what has been bothering me for a while now. LOL image

    The diagnosis: Buffaloitis.

    The symptoms: Longing to own a proof Buffalo.

    The cure: Go buy one! >>



    Yes-I've been a victim of this malady for 50 years now.
  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,785 ✭✭✭✭

    In all honesty, I would have stated the first coin was a business strike based on the image.

    This series is probably the most difficult to differentiate between proofs and strikes. Several years ago I purchased a T1 with a monster strike on Teletrade that NGC graded as a business strike. I personally thought it was a proof, but most of the members here believed it was properly diagnosed by NGC. After cracking it out and sending it to PCGS, it came back PROOF! And yet I still am not 100% sure.




    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • robecrobec Posts: 6,878 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My former '36 Satin Proof with the head butt to the rim.

    image
    image
  • PQueuePQueue Posts: 901 ✭✭✭
    Very nice Buffs and pics by all. breakdown to clarify, are you saying it's difficult to tell the difference between PF vs. MS in hand, in pictures, or both?
  • breakdownbreakdown Posts: 2,264 ✭✭✭✭✭
    PQeue
    Just saw your post. For proof Buffalos, I think I can tell in hand, largely by looking at the date and lettering and looking for the squared off outline. But let's just say I don't have enough confidence to buy a purported Buffalo proof raw, although if it's raw, I should be able to get a better look at a coin's rims.

    "Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.

  • PQueuePQueue Posts: 901 ✭✭✭
    breakdown, thanks for the clarification. BTW, looked at your Walker Registry Set, very nice! The 18-D and 23-S have nice eye appeal.

Leave a Comment

BoldItalicStrikethroughOrdered listUnordered list
Emoji
Image
Align leftAlign centerAlign rightToggle HTML viewToggle full pageToggle lights
Drop image/file