Have silver coins in GREAT shape ... new to board

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 5:35AM

I'll keep this as short as possible ...

When my dad passed away several years ago, I got some of his coins that were in the small white "slabs" with the plastic viewing panes. I've just kept them tucked away in the closet (several closets actually), and thought I'd see what I had since Silver has increased so dramatically.

I didn't realize it, but he has a lot of B.U., Gem & Proof coins of the following type:

Franklin halves - several great ones he labeled B.U.
Kennedy Halves - many labeled proof & quite a few B.U.s (4 1964s & some other 1965 through 1970), plus a bunch of "S" proofs from 1970s & 1980s including frosted
Walking Liberty half - 1944-D that looks amazing
Washington quarters - a few 1950s proofs that look flawless, plus other pre-1965 B.U.s & a couple other "proofs" - plus a bunch of proofs from the 1970s & 1980s
Susan B. Anthony dollars - Gem from all 3 mints in 1980 & 1981

There are others, including some Roosevelt & Mercury dimes, but that's a good idea of the bulk.

So, my questions are:

What is the best way to go about selecting specific coins and getting them graded? I saw that an authorized PCGS dealer is a few miles away. Should I take a sample to them and see what they think? I can definitely check prices and such on e-bay, but I am looking for some good advice. Does the dealer actually do the work, or do they send to PCGS?

Do I need to join the collectors club to submit (may be answered in above question(s)!)

How can I tell if something is CAM vs. DCAM?

Do I need to take the coins out of the small cardboard holders -- he has them stapled on all 4 sides close to the window?

Thanks in advance for the help!! I'll try to post a few of the "beauties" later to see what everybody thinks.

Tim K.

RobertS · April 19, 2011 5:39AM

I personally would never entrust my coins to an authorized dealer to send on my behalf. I would send them directly to PCGS, as far as grading, you will have to read around the board. I am not good in that department...

MsMorrisine · April 19, 2011 5:50AM

the cardboard holders are called flips, instead of slabs.

if I do not know the dealer, there is no way I'd trust a dealer to submit my coins to PCGS.

For some coins, the sale prices might be the same in the flips as they would be graded by PCGS. So, for some it might not be worth grading.

If you want to submit directly, you need to join as a member.

JJM · April 19, 2011 6:27AM

BST

pitboss · April 19, 2011 6:35AM

Take good pictures and describe them well and put them on ebay. They will sell for what they are worth and you don't have to deal with a coin dealer or hire an appraiser to tell you what you have. You can also take the slow route and learn the hard way.

pakasmom · April 19, 2011 6:37AM

"I saw that an authorized PCGS dealer is a few miles away. Should I take a sample to them and see what they think?"

By all means! And then take those same samples to 2 or 3 other dealers too... (It's like getting bids on a construction job.) It doesn't cost you a thing to hear what they have to say. And you may get some good advice along the way. As in, which coins would actually be worth the cost of submitting and which would not.

Wishing you the best of luck, and welcome to the boards!

Type2 · April 19, 2011 6:47AM

1st

and now you need to look around for a bit don't sell any coins yet if you are thinking of doing so or you may get mad at some one some day for what you did. you have time buy a book or look and see if your dad left you some. As for cam and deep cam look up some threads and see how they look. this my help a bit. have fun, Type2. and post some pic we like to look.

lkeigwin · April 19, 2011 7:15AM

Some of them might be worth the grading fee. Many will not. I think that's not your best option, yet.

Why not take some of them to a local dealer and ask his opinion of grade and value? You'll learn something along the way. And while you're there pick up the latest edition of the Red Book. Go through the coins to get a general idea of value. You might buy a book on grading too. Now you're armed.

Leave the coins in their flips, BTW, unless you are carefully placing them in better holders.
Lance.

ricko · April 19, 2011 7:29AM

Repeating some of the above (to lend even more weight to the conversation), buy the Redbook, get a book on grading, join a coin club - and try to find a trusted member to help you. Good luck, Cheers, RickO

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 7:44AM

Thanks for all the advice so far!

As for taking good pictures and posting on e-bay, my concern is what if I have a coin that is worth hundreds more because it is actually a MS 69 or 68 instead of a MS67? Will the e-bayers pay the price of a 68 or 69 with good pictures posted that "seem" to support the higher grade?

For example, I have a few 1970-D Kennedy halves that are B.U. and look great. If graded, the difference between MS66 and MS65 is significant (possibly $250 vs. $50ish). Am I selling myself short by posting to e-bay even with good pictures? Of course, there is no guarantee because it may come back as a MS65. But I'm just not sure what a raw 1970-D that WOULD grade MS66 would sell on e-bay.

We sell a bunch on e-bay (baseball cards and other collectibles over the years) and have a great feedback of 100% and 7,850+, so e-bay is a great route for us to ultimately sell when we're ready. Plus, I know that a graded trading card will sell much, Much, MUCH higher than the exact same card "pre-grading". I'm assuming that coins are easier to eyeball and grade as opposed to cards, but I would have thought some of the same philosophy is still present.

keets · April 19, 2011 7:44AM

since you don't seem to know anything about coins you aren't really a good judge of "great shape" or anything else for that matter. i suggest you refrain from doing anything with these coins until you have spent some time trying to educate yourself. go to some shows and look at coins, buy some books and learn how to grade. as things stand now and judging just from this post, you are setting out on a fools errand and setting yourself up to be fleeced by trusting another "expert" when you don't really know what you have. you should have at least a basic knowledge of what the coins are, what they grade and what their value is before you set about doing any of the things you mentioned.

keets · April 19, 2011 7:48AM

I'm assuming that coins are easier to eyeball and grade as opposed to cards

please follow the advuice i gave above if the highlighted cut/paste is your honest opinion.

MsMorrisine · April 19, 2011 7:50AM

you can't put grades in eBay auctions nor in the pictures if the coins are not professionally graded by ANACS, NGC, or PCGS.

Your selling price will depend upon your feedback, history of selling coins(assuming the buyer looks), pictures, description, return policy, shipping charges, etc.

There are people here who are quite trustworthy and who take consignments for selling on eBay for you.

MsMorrisine · April 19, 2011 7:53AM

this place also has a "Buy Sell Trade" forum.

You may not like some terms since you are new, but you can move things there with good pictures and payment flexibility
(many dealers want to get the coins first, then pay later after they arrive. More so if you are new.)

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 8:44AM

<< since you don't seem to know anything about coins you aren't really a good judge of "great shape" or anything else for that matter. i suggest you refrain from doing anything with these coins until you have spent some time trying to educate yourself. go to some shows and look at coins, buy some books and learn how to grade. as things stand now and judging just from this post, you are setting out on a fools errand and setting yourself up to be fleeced by trusting another "expert" when you don't really know what you have. you should have at least a basic knowledge of what the coins are, what they grade and what their value is before you set about doing any of the things you mentioned. >>

I didn't want to make the first post too long, but I'll go ahead and add more to hopefully make you feel better about my knowledge.

I collected coins with my dad when I was younger. I know how meticulous he was and I was always looking through the loupe at the coins with him from the age of 5 until I was 15. So, yes, I do know what "great shape" means and I can spot significant differences in many of the coins I have in front of me.

I just took the coins out of the closet last night and have already spent hours on e-bay, looking at on-line price guides and reviewing a book I bought when I got the coins from my dad a few years ago. I am already well aware of which ones are the most valuable and have the most upside if graded high.

I have already planned on joining PCGS and submitting the coins I feel are worthy. What I wasn't aware of was how the Authorized Dealers work in the grand scheme of PCGS...I still don't know what their role in the process is.

I do "know what I have" and I'm pretty confident I could get close to the final grade based on the knowledge I have.

My apologies about sounding like an uneducated, uninformed child with these coins ... but that was not my intention.

My main questions are about the whole grading process (not what the actual grades/values are ... just the submission process).

BG · April 19, 2011 9:15AM

Don't waste your time taking them to a "PCGS Authorized Dealer." They probably won't submit them and if they do, they'll rip you one for it. There are many folks here that are very knowledagable in the series you've talked about and who will "pre-screen" them for you if you so desire. You could join the PCGS Collectors Club and depending on the level you select, get some free gradings. You could then send some in and see how they grade in comparison to your grades.

Frankiefanatic · April 19, 2011 9:32AM

<< Don't waste your time taking them to a "PCGS Authorized Dealer." They probably won't submit them and if they do, they'll rip you one for it. There are many folks here that are very knowledagable in the series you've talked about and who will "pre-screen" them for you if you so desire. You could join the PCGS Collectors Club and depending on the level you select, get some free gradings. You could then send some in and see how they grade in comparison to your grades. >>

Are you absolutely sure that a PCGS dealer will 'rip you' for bringing in coins to be graded? That not only sounds absurd, but somewhat slanderous to PCGS. They entrust the folks that are dealers to be trustworthy as well as honest with clientele.

I do hope that you rethink your position on this comment- very childish to make that type of comment.

llafoe · April 19, 2011 9:38AM

<< 

<< Don't waste your time taking them to a "PCGS Authorized Dealer." They probably won't submit them and if they do, they'll rip you one for it. There are many folks here that are very knowledagable in the series you've talked about and who will "pre-screen" them for you if you so desire. You could join the PCGS Collectors Club and depending on the level you select, get some free gradings. You could then send some in and see how they grade in comparison to your grades. >>

Are you absolutely sure that a PCGS dealer will 'rip you' for bringing in coins to be graded? That not only sounds absurd, but somewhat slanderous to PCGS. They entrust the folks that are dealers to be trustworthy as well as honest with clientele.

I do hope that you rethink your position on this comment- very childish to make that type of comment. >>

It would be libelous and it wouldn't be construed to be directed toward PCGS.

66Tbird · April 19, 2011 10:03AM

<< 

<< Don't waste your time taking them to a "PCGS Authorized Dealer." They probably won't submit them and if they do, they'll rip you one for it. There are many folks here that are very knowledagable in the series you've talked about and who will "pre-screen" them for you if you so desire. You could join the PCGS Collectors Club and depending on the level you select, get some free gradings. You could then send some in and see how they grade in comparison to your grades. >>

Are you absolutely sure that a PCGS dealer will 'rip you' for bringing in coins to be graded? That not only sounds absurd, but somewhat slanderous to PCGS. They entrust the folks that are dealers to be trustworthy as well as honest with clientele.

I do hope that you rethink your position on this comment- very childish to make that type of comment. >>

I agree 100%. It's not PCGS you need to worry about, it's the other party. Unfortunately I've seen it twice. Join the club and send them yourself.

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 12:44PM

Okay ... here are some pictures of a sample of the coins. Unfortunately, the pictures aren't too great and actually quite dull. Unsure how to get good-sized, clear pictures? The problem is making them under 50kb to load to photobucket ... any quick ideas?

For example, the 76 Kennedy and 67 Washington are both cameos, but it isn't coming out in the pictures !!

Weg · April 19, 2011 1:16PM

To answer your question; a authorized PCGS dealer is basicly to accommodate someone such as yourself for submitting coins for grading if you do not want to join the collectors club and submit them yourself. You say that you have a good handle on which coins would benefit from being graded and you you know how to grade so there is not much else an authorized dealer can do for you. The dealer is not going to spend his/her time submitting your coins at cost so expect to pay for that persons time. Just join the club and send them in yourself.

MsMorrisine · April 19, 2011 1:27PM

I had a dealer say they'd submit coins for me for cost.

later I learned I couldn't trust said dealer to take out my trash.

I can tell those are scans and not photos. You'll get better prices with better photos.

Those Franklins don't look CAM nor DCAM.

MsMorrisine · April 19, 2011 1:29PM

what's with that dark spot on the rim of the 1970D Kennedy ??

Did the plastic film split open?

ProofArtworkonCircs · April 19, 2011 1:36PM

The 1960 Washington quarter looks like a type B to me.

stealer · April 19, 2011 1:39PM

<< what's with that dark spot on the rim of the 1970D Kennedy ??

Did the plastic film split open? >>

Looks like something on the coin because it stops just before the rim.

Rob85635 · April 19, 2011 1:55PM

What Keets said may seem a tad bit harsh, but he is exactly right. I have been collecting for 20 years and my knowlege pales compared to most of the people on this forum who have been around more than a few years because I simply don't devote as much time to it as most others. You have a LOT to learn if you want to grade / sell these coins yourself. Get the Red Book as well as a copy of the Official guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection by PCGS.

<< For example, I have a few 1970-D Kennedy halves that are B.U. and look great. If graded, the difference between MS66 and MS65 is significant (possibly $250 vs. $50ish). Am I selling myself short by posting to e-bay even with good pictures? Of course, there is no guarantee because it may come back as a MS65. But I'm just not sure what a raw 1970-D that WOULD grade MS66 would sell on e-bay. >>

Not even the best of experts here will give you the same grade on a coin, even with the best of pictures many of these forum experts disagree by a point or two at times. Without coin in hand it is hard to settle on a grade based on pictures so do not worry about a point or two in variance when / if you sell them. If you have some coins that will give a significant premium with a point or two (top pops, etc.) send them in and let the experts grade them.

It may be tempting with silver high right now to sell them but if I were you I would hold them and let their Numismatic value guide your decisions.

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 2:20PM

<< To answer your question; a authorized PCGS dealer is basicly to accommodate someone such as yourself for submitting coins for grading if you do not want to join the collectors club and submit them yourself. You say that you have a good handle on which coins would benefit from being graded and you you know how to grade so there is not much else an authorized dealer can do for you. The dealer is not going to spend his/her time submitting your coins at cost so expect to pay for that persons time. Just join the club and send them in yourself. >>

I'm definitely joining the club and submitting myself. As somebody previously mentioned, I'll submit the 8 free ones and compare to the grade I came up with myself. I guess I didn't realize that there are SO MANY authorized dealers and that all they would be doing is the exact same thing I would be doing (perhaps they get a discounted rate as a dealer?). Anyway, I'm much happier paying a few more bucks each and having control on my own !!

I do understand that even professionals can differ in their grading by a point or two ... so my plan is to submit those that have the highest upside by receiving one or two of those points. And those that I feel the "minimum" grade which the coin should obtain will still result in a nice "market value" for the coin (for example an MS63 coin that will still have a nice value -- like the early Franklins).

I don't think I'd post any to e-bay that haven't been graded for the most part.

My father was so meticulous when he bought coins ... he'd be at the shop and have 5 or 6 of the same coin laid out and spend a long time before deciding on each purchase. Also, there is a 1904 Morgan graded MS-63 ... and unless I'm crazy, at least 90% of the coins I'm interested in potentially grading "appear" to be in better condition than that one. But, I'll be buying a loupe and the Red Book tomorrow and will have some fun going through all of them !

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 2:25PM

<< I had a dealer say they'd submit coins for me for cost.

later I learned I couldn't trust said dealer to take out my trash.

I can tell those are scans and not photos. You'll get better prices with better photos.

Those Franklins don't look CAM nor DCAM. >>

No, none of the Franklins are either CAM or DCAM. Just the 1967 Washington and Bi-Centennial Kennedy. There are about 30 other Kennedy proofs that are DCAM and quite a few Washingtons as well.

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 2:26PM

<< what's with that dark spot on the rim of the 1970D Kennedy ??

Did the plastic film split open? >>

No, the film is still intact. One of the Franklins has 3 smaller spots, but similar color. Perhaps something was in there when my dad sealed it?

thekramers5 · April 19, 2011 2:30PM

<< It may be tempting with silver high right now to sell them but if I were you I would hold them and let their Numismatic value guide your decisions. >>

Silver prices are what made me take them out to look at them, but any that I sell will strictly be for numismatic values. There were a lot of other silver coins in much lesser condition that are definitely valued entirely based on silver. Even once the others are graded, I'm sure I'll hold some for my 3 boys.

PerryHall · April 19, 2011 9:56PM

The 2X2 cardboard holders (they aren't called flips as someone here said---that's a different kind of holder) usually have cardboard dust on the windiws which can cause spotting on coins. I use a clean cloth or compressed air to remove any cardboard dust before using any 2X2's for my coins.

slipgate · April 19, 2011 10:07PM

Before you send any moderns in for grading, check the CLOSED auctions on Ebay to see what they actually sell for (check all of your coins this way).

What you think is a 66 might be worth the grading/submission fees but a 65 might be a waste of money and you just might get the coin back graded as a 63. I think you'll find for a lot of moderns the price guide is living in bizarro world. I just liquidated a ton of silver Washington quarters for melt and many were BU. It just isn't worth the time and effort to grade some coins no matter how nice they are unless they are for your own enjoyment.

Also keep in mind that you have to pay postage both ways for submissions!

AUandAG · April 19, 2011 11:58PM

It's been hinted at but not said: Take a dozen of your coins you deem worth grading and send them
in to PCGS. Pay the piper. That's how you learn. Get a good sampling and just send them in. Do
the online grading form and just go for it.

Also, if we knew what city you lived in, perhaps there is another forumite that is your neighbor and
would be able to help.

bob

1tommy · April 20, 2011 12:55AM

<< The 1960 Washington quarter looks like a type B to me. >>

Make sure you look at the any washingtons 1956 thru 64 for the b type quarters any 64 d? maybe the type C. Get all the books and read up on everything. Good luck still going thru my mom and dads coins and its such fun........................Enjoy

PerryHall · April 20, 2011 1:14AM

Also, look for any 1975 quarters. They are extremely rare and are quite valuable.

thekramers5 · April 22, 2011 12:32AM

<< The 1960 Washington quarter looks like a type B to me. >>

Yep, it definitely is!! Plus, the coin itself is one of the best of all the Washington quarters in terms of "my" grading!

thekramers5 · April 22, 2011 12:39AM

This is such a blast ... but time-consuming when you have 3 small boys to take care of at night!

A couple quick follow-ups:

1) Is there a quick and easy way to take clear pictures? Obviously scanning isn't so hot. If I take pictures with my wife's camera (fairly highend), that isn't working out as well. I'm going to try the iPhone route. Is it best to take a farther away picture then crop it (thought I'd lose some clarity, however)?

2) For those coins that have the dark black spots like the 1970-D Washington (which could have been from the staples, I read somewhere?), are those immediately in the don't even think about grading pile? The coins shop I went to said yes, but looking for confirmation.

3) Is there an easy way to determine the FB on Roosevelt and Mercury dimes (actually, a link to a good description)? Everything I've read is rather vague. I have a lot that have clear lines everywhere they need to be, but how much depth is needed?

4) Is there an easy way to determine Cameo vs. Deep Cameo? Big potential price differences on those!

5) The dealer I went to pulled out some sheet showing that Modern coins at PCGS are $18 for THEM to submit, and they charge around $24/$25. Not that I ever intended to submit through the dealer, but I'm seeing $14 on the website ... ???

As always, thanks.

Tim

thekramers5 · April 22, 2011 12:40AM

My dad pulled that one on me when I was younger, and finally had to break the news to me after watching me sort through 2 giant containers of quarters for several hours !

Have silver coins in GREAT shape ... new to board

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