Do a search here...there are some very helpful threads. To me the shield rivets are the easiest way to tell the difference. The rivets on a 1916 are very weak and are almost not visible in the lower grades.
On low grades my first look is the rivets, week or gone, next on to fold on drape, if good the on to head. The rivets on that coin tell the story in 1/4 of a second.
A guy is selling me 8 Dansco albums and these coins were in the slots... he didn't know any more than I did whether they were legit 1916's
He is not trying to deceive at all.. in fact I bought all the common stuff for a price and said I'd take the numismatic valued coins and get them looked at before I made an offer.
I have a some barber dimes I will have to get looked at.
Comments
EAC 6024
<< <i>If an authentic 16-D...it may get some leighway...but I'd anticipate the scratch on the reverse would keep it from holdering. JMHO. >>
Agree. That scratch is pretty bad.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
All the shows I've been to and all the 16-D's I've seen, this one is no worse than a lot of the ones that make it into plastic.
President, Racine Numismatic Society 2013-2014; Variety Resource Dimes; See 6/8/12 CDN for my article on Winged Liberty Dimes; Ebay
<< <i>I think the dime would get graded. >>
I agree and think the mark on the rev is old and not that bad
Can someone tell me how to determine a 1916 SLQ when the coin is dateless and are there any 1916's in this shot?
Thanks in advance for any help!
<< <i>Can someone tell me how to determine a 1916 SLQ when the coin is dateless and are there any 1916's in this shot?
Thanks in advance for any help! >>
Here you go.
Lance.
He is not trying to deceive at all.. in fact I bought all the common stuff for a price and said I'd take the numismatic valued coins and get them looked at before I made an offer.
I have a some barber dimes I will have to get looked at.