TPG problem coins - what to do about holdering them.
seateddime
Posts: 6,180 ✭✭✭
Granted that a high value coin in a PCGS genuine holder is excellent if you were slabbing coins for sale that may have been cleaned which would you go with for coins UNDER $500
Anacs which will still give a numerical grade (like Au55 or Au 58) and is less per coin ( which adds up if you are doing a lot of coins)
or
NGC which would only grade AU, even if if the coin is a Au58+++ but may have some value to a NGC registry collector
or would you just stick with PCGS which does not put a grade but is PCGS?
For the purpose of this question I am thinking about only coins that are "economy" but at least would have trackable bar codes and could be used for easier sale on Ebay or Heritage and would let loved one know what it is they are selling.
Anacs which will still give a numerical grade (like Au55 or Au 58) and is less per coin ( which adds up if you are doing a lot of coins)
or
NGC which would only grade AU, even if if the coin is a Au58+++ but may have some value to a NGC registry collector
or would you just stick with PCGS which does not put a grade but is PCGS?
For the purpose of this question I am thinking about only coins that are "economy" but at least would have trackable bar codes and could be used for easier sale on Ebay or Heritage and would let loved one know what it is they are selling.
I seldom check PM's but do check emails often jason@seated.org
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
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If it were one of those three cases, then I would ask PCGS to identify it and slab it as genuine, even though PCGS does not do details-grading. Folks interested in genuine coins are usually able to judge the details-grade. PCGS earns greater respect and premium.
Lance.
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<< <i>Honestly I like the NGC with a details grade and knowing the problem. I know you can go look up the code on the PCGS site somewhere, but I never do. If you want to sell to a PCGS registry collector then PCGS is the way to go, but honestly to everyone else I don't think it's necessarily the best way. >>
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have to have a membership. So if you already have a membership in PCGS,
NGC, or ANA (through which you can get free NGC submissions), then there
is no advantage to submitting through ANACS.
Mark
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<< <i>ANACS is actually *not* less expensive. The only advantage is that you don't
have to have a membership. So if you already have a membership in PCGS,
NGC, or ANA (through which you can get free NGC submissions), then there
is no advantage to submitting through ANACS.
Mark >>
Anacs is less for non dealer accounts than NGC. On a few coins not a big deal but on 100+ coins it is several hundred dollars.
Buying top quality Seated Dimes in Gem BU and Proof.
Buying great coins - monster eye appeal only.
ANACS giving full numerical grades is a bit unneccessary. That, and in spite of their historic significance, ANACS seems to be fading in terms of market support. These days, where every major dealer, auction firm, and collector, it is pretty much PCGS, NGC, and the bean.
My stance on ANACS graded coins is that I'll consider them, particularly old white holders, but only if I think I can cross them to PCGS at the grade for which I am paying. For instance, for a coin worth $300 in MS64 and $800 in MS65, PCGS graded, I'll pay $300 if I think I can get a coin graded MS64 by PCGS, regardless if its current holder says ANACS MS64, ANACS MS65, or SEGS MS69.