eBay Coin Buying Advice ...
BigRick
Posts: 1,334
Buying coins on eBay can be a very rewarding but many times VERY risky business. There are just as many "bad coins" as there are "bad sellers". Watch out, know who you are dealing with, know what you are buying, & most importantly, use common sense. There are some people on eBay who make a living out of fleecing the less informed. Here are some tips to help you make sure you get the most out of your eBay coin buying:
Note that ALL statements apply IN GENERAL. There will always be an honest person on the up & up that is the exception to one or more of the following "rules" that SHOULD NOT be avoided BUT, in general AVOID ALL coin sellers that exhibit more than the number that YOU are comfortable with of the following characteristics - i.e. "RED FLAGS".
If used as a checklist, obviously, the more of the following characteristics one possess, the more one should be avoided.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, AVOID Coin Sellers That:
1.Don't offer a clearly stated return policy.
2.Don't allow returns at all.
3.Quote the PCGS price guide for NON-PCGS graded coins.
4.Don't show a CLEAR picture of what they are selling - or no picture at all.
5.The picture of the coin(s) doesn't(don't) look like the seller took the photos themselves. Many times crooked sellers will steal images from legitimate dealers and use it in their auctions to make the buyer think they are receiving the coin in the picture. If in doubt, ask the seller where they got the picture from!
6.Say they are selling a slabbed coin but don't show the uniquley identifying data on the slab itself in the picture (which just might be a stock photo).
7.Have lots of "third tier" slabs in their inventory & promote a coin as being worth $10,000 (based on the ridiculously over-inflated grade) but has a buy it now of $500, e.g. Most of the time these are either raw coins or have been graded by a third tier grading company such as SEGS, ICG, PCI, NTC, ACG, ANI, Anyone Else &/or ANY Coin in a CoinWord do it yourself holder.
8.Don't reply to your e-mail inquiries within 1 business day.
9.Assert a coin is something that the slab insert neglects to mention AND refuses to guarantee their assertion (i.e. attribution) AND extend their return policy - or even allow a return when they normally don't - AT LEAST for enough time for you to get it authenticated/verified by an independent third party grading service (such as ANACS, NGC, or PCGS). This is PARTICULARLY important if you are buying Vams &/or varieties.
10.Run private auctions/listings as many times this is just a way for them to hide their shill bidding activity.
11.Have feedback that has several RECENT negatives - & more than usual. A possible sign of a hijacked account (12, 13, & 14 below are early warnings of a hijacked account).
12.Has an account that shows no activity for quite some time and suddenly is offering a very rare or expensive coin or an unusually large number of coin auctions/listings.
13.Had past items that were something like very low dollar items &/or CD cases, old DVD's, and machine parts - there's a good chance that they are not going to be offering rare coins.
14.Is offering a coin for outright sale at well below what the coin typically sells for then there is a strong possibility that the seller is trying to steal your money by having you pay for the item once you win/buy it and never shipping the coin to you.
15.Have private feedback - as this is usually to just hide some seriously derogatory statements from those that they may have mistreated or ripped-off.
16.Have less a than 99% (at the BARE MINIMUM) feedback rating.
17.Are not an eBay powerseller.
18.Refuse to give you a way to reach them by telephone.
19.Refuse to accept a form of payment that you have no recourse on (i.e. cash/checks only, e.g.).
20.to be continued...
A Note About Grading Services:
Not all Third Party Grading (i.e. Certification) Services (TPG's) are created equal. I would recommend that buyers of coins on eBay stick with PCGS, NGC, & ANACS - IN GENERAL. As for the TPG's below, be VERY cautious when buying coins certified by these companies (in order of best to worst):
SEGS, ICG, PCI, NTC, ACG, ANI, Anyone Else &/or ANY Coin in a CoinWord do it yourself holder.
These are grading services that GENERALLY have sub-par standards and should GENERALLY be avoided. i.e. An ACG MS65 might turn out to be anywhere from an AU58-MS63, e.g. at PCGS - if it doesn't get "body-bagged for a problem such as having been cleaned, e.g.
If you are interested in a coin that is holdered by any of the above listed services, ask yourself, why isn't the coin in a PCGS, NGC, or ANACS holder already? If such coins get such premiums, wouldn't it make sense for the seller to get the coin certified by one of those three services (& yes, in many cases, it's PCGS that would add the MOST value to a coin holdered at a given grade)?
I find it almost funny (if it weren't so so sad) that a seller would promote a coin as being worth $10,000 and then have a buy it now price of $500 (e.g.). Most often you will see a link to the PCGS price guide and the coin will be either raw (ungraded) or in a third tier slab (see list above). Just remember, you get what you pay for and if something seems too good to be true, it usually is.
Of course, in our advanced seminar, we'll explain how to buy these "3rd tier slabs" at the "right price" - LOL :-)
Update 6/26/09: The biggest single problem to surface since I first published this guide has been the absolute rampant proliferation of Chinese fakes (i.e. counterfeit coins and in some case, counterfeit slabs - either with or without counterfeit coins encased within them) on eBay in particular and in the U.S. in general.
The vast majority of counterfeits are simply raw coins (not slabbed). Some are easily spotted while others are very deceptive. Many times these are coins that would normally sell for many times the high bid of the auction (e.g. a 1795 dollar going for about $300) and look like a bargain but are still not worth it - although apparently some want it just beause they view it as a substitute for a much rarer and more valuable genuine coin (as long as YOU make the choice for yourself that that is OK for YOU you won't actually be getting "ripped off" - i.e. if you know what you are bargaining for - but you are still contributing to the problem and continued proliferation).
Some times the auction price attains near the "right value" for an authentic coin which gives it more credence as to its genuineness. Many times the images will be so poor that the diagnostics necessary to make a determination are not easily evident. Frequently the sellers who have these coins won't be responsive to requests for better images or any representation or warranty as to the coins genuineness or offer a return policy. As stated above, no return policy - especially on raw coins - equals DON'T BUY.
A far more deceptive trend is counterfeit slabs. The Chinese are now creating counterfeit slabs using information (i.e. coin numbers, serial numbers, etc.) taken from images of real coins (from the Heritage auction archives, e.g.) and transferring that data to the counterfeit slab so that when one checks the cert number of the slab in question (on PCGS's site e.g.) it appears legitimate. This is a much harder form of deception to detect. To make things harder, sometimes, instead of encasing a counterfeit coin within the counterfeit slab, they are encasing a lower grade genuine coin so at least the coin's authenticity can't be called into question. In these niche cases, the counterfeiters are focusing on coins where the percentage difference in value is greatest from one grade to another (i.e. between the genuine coins actual grade and the counterfeit slabs' copied fraudulent grade).
Luckily, thus far, the VAST majority of counterfeit slabs also contain counterfeit coins so the same diagnostics needed to identify a counterfeit raw coin will still apply to identifying a counterfeit coin in a counterfeit slab. Additionally, whilst counterfeit slabs DO exist, apparently they have not proliferated nearly to the extent of counterfeit raw coins have - of course, we might not know the true extent!
Thoughts? Any other things to watch out for?
Note that ALL statements apply IN GENERAL. There will always be an honest person on the up & up that is the exception to one or more of the following "rules" that SHOULD NOT be avoided BUT, in general AVOID ALL coin sellers that exhibit more than the number that YOU are comfortable with of the following characteristics - i.e. "RED FLAGS".
If used as a checklist, obviously, the more of the following characteristics one possess, the more one should be avoided.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
So, AVOID Coin Sellers That:
1.Don't offer a clearly stated return policy.
2.Don't allow returns at all.
3.Quote the PCGS price guide for NON-PCGS graded coins.
4.Don't show a CLEAR picture of what they are selling - or no picture at all.
5.The picture of the coin(s) doesn't(don't) look like the seller took the photos themselves. Many times crooked sellers will steal images from legitimate dealers and use it in their auctions to make the buyer think they are receiving the coin in the picture. If in doubt, ask the seller where they got the picture from!
6.Say they are selling a slabbed coin but don't show the uniquley identifying data on the slab itself in the picture (which just might be a stock photo).
7.Have lots of "third tier" slabs in their inventory & promote a coin as being worth $10,000 (based on the ridiculously over-inflated grade) but has a buy it now of $500, e.g. Most of the time these are either raw coins or have been graded by a third tier grading company such as SEGS, ICG, PCI, NTC, ACG, ANI, Anyone Else &/or ANY Coin in a CoinWord do it yourself holder.
8.Don't reply to your e-mail inquiries within 1 business day.
9.Assert a coin is something that the slab insert neglects to mention AND refuses to guarantee their assertion (i.e. attribution) AND extend their return policy - or even allow a return when they normally don't - AT LEAST for enough time for you to get it authenticated/verified by an independent third party grading service (such as ANACS, NGC, or PCGS). This is PARTICULARLY important if you are buying Vams &/or varieties.
10.Run private auctions/listings as many times this is just a way for them to hide their shill bidding activity.
11.Have feedback that has several RECENT negatives - & more than usual. A possible sign of a hijacked account (12, 13, & 14 below are early warnings of a hijacked account).
12.Has an account that shows no activity for quite some time and suddenly is offering a very rare or expensive coin or an unusually large number of coin auctions/listings.
13.Had past items that were something like very low dollar items &/or CD cases, old DVD's, and machine parts - there's a good chance that they are not going to be offering rare coins.
14.Is offering a coin for outright sale at well below what the coin typically sells for then there is a strong possibility that the seller is trying to steal your money by having you pay for the item once you win/buy it and never shipping the coin to you.
15.Have private feedback - as this is usually to just hide some seriously derogatory statements from those that they may have mistreated or ripped-off.
16.Have less a than 99% (at the BARE MINIMUM) feedback rating.
17.Are not an eBay powerseller.
18.Refuse to give you a way to reach them by telephone.
19.Refuse to accept a form of payment that you have no recourse on (i.e. cash/checks only, e.g.).
20.to be continued...
A Note About Grading Services:
Not all Third Party Grading (i.e. Certification) Services (TPG's) are created equal. I would recommend that buyers of coins on eBay stick with PCGS, NGC, & ANACS - IN GENERAL. As for the TPG's below, be VERY cautious when buying coins certified by these companies (in order of best to worst):
SEGS, ICG, PCI, NTC, ACG, ANI, Anyone Else &/or ANY Coin in a CoinWord do it yourself holder.
These are grading services that GENERALLY have sub-par standards and should GENERALLY be avoided. i.e. An ACG MS65 might turn out to be anywhere from an AU58-MS63, e.g. at PCGS - if it doesn't get "body-bagged for a problem such as having been cleaned, e.g.
If you are interested in a coin that is holdered by any of the above listed services, ask yourself, why isn't the coin in a PCGS, NGC, or ANACS holder already? If such coins get such premiums, wouldn't it make sense for the seller to get the coin certified by one of those three services (& yes, in many cases, it's PCGS that would add the MOST value to a coin holdered at a given grade)?
I find it almost funny (if it weren't so so sad) that a seller would promote a coin as being worth $10,000 and then have a buy it now price of $500 (e.g.). Most often you will see a link to the PCGS price guide and the coin will be either raw (ungraded) or in a third tier slab (see list above). Just remember, you get what you pay for and if something seems too good to be true, it usually is.
Of course, in our advanced seminar, we'll explain how to buy these "3rd tier slabs" at the "right price" - LOL :-)
Update 6/26/09: The biggest single problem to surface since I first published this guide has been the absolute rampant proliferation of Chinese fakes (i.e. counterfeit coins and in some case, counterfeit slabs - either with or without counterfeit coins encased within them) on eBay in particular and in the U.S. in general.
The vast majority of counterfeits are simply raw coins (not slabbed). Some are easily spotted while others are very deceptive. Many times these are coins that would normally sell for many times the high bid of the auction (e.g. a 1795 dollar going for about $300) and look like a bargain but are still not worth it - although apparently some want it just beause they view it as a substitute for a much rarer and more valuable genuine coin (as long as YOU make the choice for yourself that that is OK for YOU you won't actually be getting "ripped off" - i.e. if you know what you are bargaining for - but you are still contributing to the problem and continued proliferation).
Some times the auction price attains near the "right value" for an authentic coin which gives it more credence as to its genuineness. Many times the images will be so poor that the diagnostics necessary to make a determination are not easily evident. Frequently the sellers who have these coins won't be responsive to requests for better images or any representation or warranty as to the coins genuineness or offer a return policy. As stated above, no return policy - especially on raw coins - equals DON'T BUY.
A far more deceptive trend is counterfeit slabs. The Chinese are now creating counterfeit slabs using information (i.e. coin numbers, serial numbers, etc.) taken from images of real coins (from the Heritage auction archives, e.g.) and transferring that data to the counterfeit slab so that when one checks the cert number of the slab in question (on PCGS's site e.g.) it appears legitimate. This is a much harder form of deception to detect. To make things harder, sometimes, instead of encasing a counterfeit coin within the counterfeit slab, they are encasing a lower grade genuine coin so at least the coin's authenticity can't be called into question. In these niche cases, the counterfeiters are focusing on coins where the percentage difference in value is greatest from one grade to another (i.e. between the genuine coins actual grade and the counterfeit slabs' copied fraudulent grade).
Luckily, thus far, the VAST majority of counterfeit slabs also contain counterfeit coins so the same diagnostics needed to identify a counterfeit raw coin will still apply to identifying a counterfeit coin in a counterfeit slab. Additionally, whilst counterfeit slabs DO exist, apparently they have not proliferated nearly to the extent of counterfeit raw coins have - of course, we might not know the true extent!
Thoughts? Any other things to watch out for?
0
Comments
While I applaud your effort to provide safe shopping advice for novice ebay coin buyers I disagree completetly with your inclusion of ICG in your list of TPGs that "GENERALLY have sub-par standards and should GENERALLY be avoided."
Also disagree with the following following reasons to avoid a seller:
13.Had past items that were something like very low dollar items &/or CD cases, old DVD's, and machine parts - there's a good chance that they are not going to be offering rare coins.
Many coin sellers on ebay are not coin dealers. This makes them one a great source for great buys on hidden coin treasures.
16.Have less a than 99% (at the BARE MINIMUM) feedback rating.
Feeback rating is not as important as what the feeback says. Read the feedback, not the number. On the subject of feedback number, ebay now puts a temporary hold on the transaction funds if the seller has less than 100 feedback as a seller. This makes shopping with a low number feedback seller as safe if not safer than buying from a seller with a high feedback number.
17.Are not an eBay powerseller.
Although I hold two powerseller accounts and enjoy the ebay fee discounts, I would much rather buy from a non-powerseller who is trying very hard to become a powerseller. Every seller starts with zero feedback and zero sales. Powersellers are volume sellers. This makes it easy for the individual buyer to get lost in the powerseller's "system." While the powerseller logo is the mark of reliable sellers it does not make them the only reliable sellers on ebay.
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>Powersellers are volume sellers. >>
That's not necessarily true. If you sell expensive items, you can be a powerseller without a lot of sales.
1.Don't offer a clearly stated return policy.
2.Don't allow returns at all.
this can not be stressed enough - I see a growing trend of eBay sellers not offering a return at all ;
if no one buys from such sellers ( it's very risky to buy from such) , then they would quickly man up and offer a return ........or give up selling .
There is no earthly reason for any legitimate seller not to offer a return priv. - no matter what B.S they try to give as reasons why not
Good for you Big Rick !
<< <i>
<< <i>Powersellers are volume sellers. >>
That's not necessarily true. If you sell expensive items, you can be a powerseller without a lot of sales. >>
Ebay measures volume in quantity and/or dollars sold.
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>15.Have private feedback - as this is usually to just hide some seriously derogatory statements from those that they may have mistreated or ripped-off. >>
One cannot sell with private feedback.
<< <i>17.Are not an eBay powerseller. >>
You're kidding, right? Some of the biggest ripoffs on eBay are powerscrewers. Besides, there's no longer anyway to even tell since eBay removed the logo.
Russ, NCNE
#4 is my biggie because I've never bought anything without a picture. (Except a few repair parts)
<< <i>
<< <i>Powersellers are volume sellers. >>
That's not necessarily true. If you sell expensive items, you can be a powerseller without a lot of sales. >>
It's not true at all. The new requirements for powerseller status is a pitiful $3000 and 100 items a year. I made powerseller on my other dinky little account in five weeks and I can keep the status for another 10 months without selling a thing.
Russ, NCNE
<< <i>
<< <i>15.Have private feedback - as this is usually to just hide some seriously derogatory statements from those that they may have mistreated or ripped-off. >>
One cannot sell with private feedback.
<< <i>17.Are not an eBay powerseller. >>
You're kidding, right? Some of the biggest ripoffs on eBay are powerscrewers. Besides, there's no longer anyway to even tell since eBay removed the logo.
Russ, NCNE >>
Now called a "Top Rated Seller."
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>Now called a "Top Rated Seller." >>
All TRS's are powersellers, but there are hundreds of thousands of powersellers that are not TRS's.
Russ, NCNE
<< <i>this can not be stressed enough - I see a growing trend of eBay sellers not offering a return at all ;
if no one buys from such sellers ( it's very risky to buy from such) , then they would quickly man up and offer a return ........or give up selling . >>
I'm on your side here. I've been saying this for a long time, but I've given up hope of it ever happening. It seems at least once a week, a thread gets started about a problem with an eBay transaction and it turns out it's a "no returns" deal.
Lots of people either don't read or don't think what they read applies to them. This won't be changing anytime soon, as far as I can see.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
<< <i>Beware of sellers who use as many words to describe a coin as the OP used in his post. >>
Could you summarize your post? It was a bit too wordy for me...
Certainly, even at the time all was accurate (vis-a-vis the then current eBay rules/policies/practices, etc.) there still may have been some items that perhaps should not have been included on the list (like perhaps the powerseller thing). I was only trying to stress to buyers that all else equal, a seller that had the status was probably safer than one that did not. Of course there have been many glaring exceptions but on balance I stil think it was true (at least at the time)
As for ICG, if anyone thinks they are on par with PCGS try to cross some DCAM lincoln wheats (among many other glaring examples of coins graded by them that don't have a chance in h*ll of crossing to PCGS). "Subpar" simply means that there is little chance of crossing to PCGS at the same grade & I think ICG's chances of doing so are generally less than NGC & ANACS (in that order) merely from a probability perspective.
Wouldn't it be nice if PCGS keep and promulgated data to indicate the percentage of every respective crossover that was successful (i.e. at the same grade - and even for upgrades/downgrades) for each respective grading service so buyers of coins could be better informed about the raw probabilities of getting a coin in another slab to crossover?
Wouldn't you like to know that, e.g., 62% of NGC coins crossed at the same grade, 9% upgraded one grade , 18% dowgraded by one grade, 53% of ANACS coins crossed at the same grade, 7% upgraded one grade, 21% dowgraded by one grade, 41% of ICG coins crossed at the same grade, 5% upgraded, 26% dowgraded by one grade,etc...
Would this data not help buyers in general (& even the grey sheet) make more informed buying decisions?
that never stopped anyone, all the more chance for some imbecile to misread and, thereby, misinterpret and misconstrue. They love it, they have no clue, and they don't care.
PCGS Registries
Box of 20
SeaEagleCoins: 11/14/54-4/5/12. Miss you Larry!
<< <i>There was a time, years back, when ebay was a great venue and very little chicanery existed. I have long since stopped buying coins on ebay due to the crooks. Cheers, RickO >>
You are missing a truly great venue to find some great coins. "Paranoia will destroy ya"
edit for spelling
Trust me on this. Roofing is easier than a retail shop. Anyone looking for a better opportunity ? PM me for "legitimate" venture into either. Out of work ? Can't figure out how to climb the ladder of success ? It starts with a lot of failure, but don't give up. You're way too young with too many opportunities ahead, young lady. You boys, too.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
As it is, I would avoid Ebay all together for coins over a certain value. Too many fakes. Only maybe 0.5% of collectors have the authentication skills to go against the best fakes, for the rest of us, best to avoid the venue. Return policy is only useful for that 0.5%.
Wouldn't you like to know that, e.g., 62% of NGC coins crossed at the same grade, 9% upgraded one grade , 18% dowgraded by one grade, 53% of ANACS coins crossed at the same grade, 7% upgraded one grade, 21% dowgraded by one grade, 41% of ICG coins crossed at the same grade, 5% upgraded, 26% dowgraded by one grade,etc...
Would this data not help buyers in general (& even the grey sheet) make more informed buying decisions?
The cross rates at either PCGS or NGC have little bearing on anything considering that their respective cross rates are <50%. It's more about gamesmanship and revenues than anything else. The data cannot be remotely usable in its present form other than to tell a buyer that if left in the holder, the odds of the coin crossing is less than 50%, and in most cases probably less than 40%. And considering that professionally grading a coin accurately takes more than a single grading event, even the assigned grade is at best only 65-80% accurate to begin with. The waters here are so muddied as to make mining data useless. And since the quality of each coin in unique, it makes no difference what the cross rate has been running since the current coin has nothing in common with all those coins that went before it. A super high end coin will probably cross the first time in (100%). A very low end coin will likely never cross (0%). The average cross rate of those two is therefore 50%. So the guy with the 0% coin is mislead into thinking that with at most a couple of cross attempts, he'll get in.
roadrunner
<< <i>I dont care what others think of this statement... Buy the COIN, NOT the HOLDER. >>
I'd venture to guess that most collectors follow this sage advice already, But as you and I well know, to a lot of Registry Set participants who view it as a competition, it ultimately comes down to one thing more than anything else. To a lot of them it's not about getting a coin that's CORRECTLY graded; it's about getting a PCGS slab with the largest grading number printed on the slab insert, even it means having a coin encapsulated in that slab that is of a lower actual condition than what the assigned grade of the so-called "expert graders" is.
I tread carefully in the consideration of an item when the seller types a "detailed" description in 20 words but has 300 words in the conditions of sale.
The lack of a return privilege is a red flag. Buying coins and paper money requires the in hand inspection of the item, it's easy to make a horrible bag-marked coin look absolutely flawless by choosing the right lighting and angle of camera. That coin can also be manipulatively described to sound flawless.
I believe that outrageous shipping is anything more than what the postage meter strip shows. Add to any profit on shipping are those sellers who attempt to impose a "restocking fee", that still earns them a profit regardless if the coin sale is rejected or not. It may very well work out to be more profitable if the item is returned to be resold again. Postage and returned item fees are the normal cost of doing business. I trust PayPal would not agree with a restock fee?
Unfortunately eBay is making it difficult to weed out the dishonest buyers, the dishonest seller is often easier to identify.
2.Don't allow returns at all.
I NEVER allow returns on bullion coins due to metal value fluxuations.
8.Don't reply to your e-mail inquiries within 1 business day.
eBay is NOT my life, sometimes I don’t have time to reply.
16.Have less a than 99% (at the BARE MINIMUM) feedback rating.
All you need is one jerk to get you below this.
17.Are not an eBay powerseller.
This is STUPID. I've been a Powerseller when my volume is up, but 10 years on eBay is more impressive than a 2 month Powerseller.
18.Refuse to give you a way to reach them by telephone.
I don’t want idiots to call me, ever! Don't like it, stuff it.
IMO.......
Ebay IS an AUCTION site and I believe that an auction is an AUCTION and not an approval service. I do not offer returns ( although I do take them back as the buyer has all the power).
Powersellers are not evil.
99.9% of all sellers that I CHOOSE to use are completely honest with perfect descriptions.
The only things I look at when buying a coin is the coin, the price, and the feedback. That's all you need.
Because I am a Powerseller who doesn't offer returns (approval service) I guess YOU would never buy from me. BUT if you check my 100% positive feedback you would see the my "AS Described" stars are a PERFECT 5.0 for over 3000 transactions. Read some of my customers comments, they sure seem to be happy.
Ebay by far is the BEST PLACE TO BUY COINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<< <i>Ebay by far is the BEST PLACE TO BUY COINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When I was first working on my Eagles sets, the owner of the B&M got tired of helping me find coins and in a bit of frustration told me to go buy from eBay.
Six years later that "advice" created the finest Gold Eagles Set that there ever was and ever will be. Sage advice from a B&M that lost more sales over that one frustration than he will during the rest of his life.
Ebay is the best!
....who are not offering returns- have in print right next to that fact that the buyer is still protected by eBay/P.P ;
implying that if the item is not as described -the buyer can get their money refunded ...........
now how in the heck can that work out ?
<< <i>.........some of the "new" screwers......err, I mean sellers
....who are not offering returns- have in print right next to that fact that the buyer is still protected by eBay/P.P ;
implying that if the item is not as described -the buyer can get their money refunded ...........
now how in the heck can that work out ? >>
The buyer can always get their money with a NAD.
The Reason I do not offer returns is because it takes care of 99% of the Buyer's Remorse cases. (Not my fault they bid it up as I start most my auctions a 99 cents)
In all actuality, the buyer can return anything.
"2.Don't allow returns at all.
I NEVER allow returns on bullion coins due to metal value fluxuations. "
let me know who , if any sell bullion with a return priv ..........
almost assuredly by using common sense it would be obvious that Big Rick was not including " bullion" sales in his words
.......as I said , this kind of thinking and rational ...........
90% of eBay sellers that have testicles offer a return priv - the other 10% do not
I think if you're a B&M and you're not selling on eBay you're missing the boat. IMHO For example, I know at least 3 different ways to by from David Lawrence online.
Some of my best coin deals come from sellers with crappy pictures, no return policy, and primarily sell other stuff like antiques or auto parts. If you follow all those "rules" to a tee, you could well end up with a bunch of low end certified coins purchased at retail prices.
Buy the coin, not the holder, photo, feedback or return policy. At the end of the day, the COIN has the value, not any of that other stuff.
<< <i>Good god, I "violate" several on that list numerous times when I am buying.
Some of my best coin deals come from sellers with crappy pictures, no return policy, and primarily sell other stuff like antiques or auto parts. If you follow all those "rules" to a tee, you could well end up with a bunch of low end certified coins purchased at retail prices.
Buy the coin, not the holder, photo, feedback or return policy. At the end of the day, the COIN has the value, not any of that other stuff. >>
LOL, Bad photos are my favorite on ebay, these deals can be remarkable.
The non believers have no clue.
Sellers photo:
My photo:
<< <i>Add to any profit on shipping are those sellers who attempt to impose a "restocking fee" >>
Yeah, restocking fees are pretty silly in coins. I can understand them with stuff like new electronics where the value drops once the buyer opens the package. But in coins, it's stupid.
Russ, NCNE
Why they clicked to place their winning bid on my item I'll never know.
They gave me the neg over an item they want, only problem is it's never even been manufactured. It's obviously never been offered as an item by the company who made the actual item I sold the buyer.
The buyer claimed, via ebay's message system, that my title and description misrepresented the item. Get this, I had an IDENTICALLY named item listed and ending the same time, the same day. I listed each identical item with a 1 and 2 in their respective titles/auctions to differentiate them, no difference basically. Still no complaint from the second buyer.
The next day in another message, they claim I used wording in my title that is "known by anyone who buys from (insert co. name) that indicates the certain and specific item."
About a week later, no dispute res, no SNAD, no nothing, they dropped the neg bomb on me.
I don't know what to do about this, yet. I did post a request to have the neg removed, but I haven't had time to call ebay yet.
Fun and games, fun and games.
ed. -
P.S. Obviously, this MAY be ONE of the reasons why I've been on a tear about various people's reading comprehension skills.
I don't buy at 99.7% and rarely 99.8 or even 99.9.
In fact, I got ripped off by one at 100% with over 700 total FB!
I bought a collection of Lincolns, 1909 to 1945, with the '14-D called XF+++ and all other dates as VF or better.
When I received the collection, I looked at the '14-D and it was a horrible looking FAKE. It even had VDB on Lincoln's shoulder!
The others were mostly AG to G.
Two months later, after following all the rules given me by Paypal, I finally got a ruling in my favor with full refunding.
The seller then dropped out of eBay and reappeared a week or two later with the same set minus the 14-D.
There was no doubt about the identity. He was back to 10 or so FB selling the same things and writing in the same way
using English like it was a third language to him. He changed his location to a town a few miles from the one he used previously.
Let the bidder beware is all I can conclude.
JT
I collect all 20th century series except gold including those series that ended there.
<< <i>You placed your minimum feedback rating at 99%, "16.Have less a than 99% (at the BARE MINIMUM) feedback rating."
I don't buy at 99.7% and rarely 99.8 or even 99.9.
JT >>
I have purchased from sellers with as low as 95% feedback. A newer seller can get to 96% from only 2 feedbacks by idiot buyers. I always read the negs, and many times you can tell if the seller is really a slimeball, or if the seller simply ran into a couple dingbat buyers.
<< <i>LOL, I just NOW bought a coin from ebay from a seller with a 98.3 feedback which is very low.
Ebay is the best! >>
I just got the Coin and no way is it an Error, I was in "error" to buy it.
So I will ask for a full refund and If I get it then ebay is still golden in my book (and even If I don't).
If I don't, the sellers feedback will certain not be as high as it is today
I have ZERO regrets, as it's all part of "the game" of cherrying.
<< <i>
<< <i>LOL, I just NOW bought a coin from ebay from a seller with a 98.3 feedback which is very low.
Ebay is the best! >>
I just got the Coin and no way is it an Error, I was in "error" to buy it.
So I will ask for a full refund and If I get it then ebay is still golden in my book (and even If I don't).
If I don't, the sellers feedback will certain not be as high as it is today
I have ZERO regrets, as it's all part of "the game" of cherrying. >>
Just got a full refund from a 98.3 seller, that sold me a SNAD coin. Seller should have a much higher feedback imo as he handled it very professionally. Ebay is the BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!